Electrical Engineering V2 - Developers

Might be able to get a bigger batter than what was in the device, to begin with. Depends on physical size, charger doesn't care.

[QUOTE=nikomo;46726879]Might be able to get a bigger batter than what was in the device, to begin with. Depends on physical size, charger doesn't care.[/QUOTE] Yeah, the charger just has to be compatible with the charging C-rate of the battery.

The hot air station arrived. The estimate on the product page was 5-7 days shipping, the estimate on the PM I got was 3-5, and it arrived in 2. DHL works fast.

Here DHL just breaks everything.

DPD are the best I've used. They text you to give you an hour time slot, the drivers name and you can even track where the van is online so you can watch it make its way to your door.

I swear, people only have shipping company problems in North America. Probably because the NA devisions have one major flaw: the people they hire, are North Americans.

The North American DHL guarantee: Your shit will be broke on delivery.

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46743372]The North American DHL guarantee: Your shit will be broke on delivery.[/QUOTE] Sounds like UPS. Had a friend in Florida who used to work for them in the warehouse, and he told me about the time they had a partially opened package. Of a blow-up doll. Now, the responsible and reasonable thing to do would've been to put it back in the box, tape it up, and send it on its way, but being UPS, protocol demanded they blow up the doll and bat it around like a beach-ball before returning it to the box. Needless to say, when I found out that my order of 2.5L of nitric acid was being shipped by UPS, I was more than a tad worried. Thankfully it turns out that slapping big red "CORROSIVE" stickers on it keeps them from hiring the local soccer team to deliver your packages.

The datasheet for the TI LM2596 has phone numbers for the manufacturers of inductors and capacitors, right on the datasheet, presumably so you can call them and yell at them after your design doesn't work. Oh, and fax numbers, so you can fax pictures of your ass. Pages 16-17.

[QUOTE=Zero-Point;46744208]Sounds like UPS. Had a friend in Florida who used to work for them in the warehouse, and he told me about the time they had a partially opened package. Of a blow-up doll. Now, the responsible and reasonable thing to do would've been to put it back in the box, tape it up, and send it on its way, but being UPS, protocol demanded they blow up the doll and bat it around like a beach-ball before returning it to the box. Needless to say, when I found out that my order of 2.5L of nitric acid was being shipped by UPS, I was more than a tad worried. Thankfully it turns out that slapping big red "CORROSIVE" stickers on it keeps them from hiring the local soccer team to deliver your packages.[/QUOTE] Where did you order nitric acid from? I need some for reasons... [Sp]BC happens to have loads of uranium ore in surface deposits[/sp]

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46744888]Where did you order nitric acid from? I need some for reasons... [Sp]BC happens to have loads of uranium ore in surface deposits[/sp][/QUOTE] [url]http://www.artchemicals.com/Nitric_Acid_70_Technical_p/807020834.htm?1=1&CartID=0[/url] Personally I'm using mine to reclaim silver from old contactor buttons.

Anyone have experience using an ardiuno as a ftdi programmer, I have a problem with the adafruit trinket pro 3 volt and want to check to see if it's just a usb related problem.

Guys, I need some help, here I have a partial circuit diagram of an RC car toy, the parts/components have been drawn as well as the wiring, my teacher did not require me to draw the entire circuit so this is what I have [IMG]http://puu.sh/dC0kb/8b74adad41.png[/IMG] I don't know why the Front Motor is connected to up to 4 transistors, same goes for the LEDs as well as the Back Motor.

[QUOTE=rikimaru6811;46755393]Guys, I need some help, here I have a partial circuit diagram of an RC car toy, the parts/components have been drawn as well as the wiring, my teacher did not require me to draw the entire circuit so this is what I have [IMG]http://puu.sh/dC0kb/8b74adad41.png[/IMG] I don't know why the Front Motor is connected to up to 4 transistors, same goes for the LEDs as well as the Back Motor.[/QUOTE] H-bridge motor driving circuit. Very common stuff.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYafyPZ15g8[/media] This might help too.

[t]http://u.limonene.net/IMG_20141220_020853.jpg[/t][t]http://u.limonene.net/IMG_20141220_020905.jpg[/t] Looks like the voltage regulator in my alarm clock has fried itself. Its marked "D882" and is supplied via a 9V 400mA wallwart. Aside from the obvious "replace it!" any suggestions? Particularly how do I look up its spec sheet? [editline]20th December 2014[/editline] Also the small cap (470uF) is only rated for 10V...

I'm impressed tho, seeing how they invented PCB 2.0

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;46756109][t]http://u.limonene.net/IMG_20141220_020853.jpg[/t][t]http://u.limonene.net/IMG_20141220_020905.jpg[/t] Looks like the voltage regulator in my alarm clock has fried itself. Its marked "D882" and is supplied via a 9V 400mA wallwart. Aside from the obvious "replace it!" any suggestions? Particularly how do I look up its spec sheet? [editline]20th December 2014[/editline] Also the small cap (470uF) is only rated for 10V...[/QUOTE] D882 it a Chinese npn transistor, D1 is a zener diode rated around whatever the intended output voltage is, looks like the transistor just gave up probably due to a combination of temperature and age or there is something else wrong with your alarm clock. If you don't know what the output voltage is test the zener.

Finally got my regenerative radio working, kind of: [url]http://vocaroo.com/i/s13a74hOlF2k[/url] Warning: may cause blood to leak from ears. [img]http://u.cubeupload.com/Chryseus/ywlU6v.png[/img]

So I found a few relays... [t]http://i.imgur.com/XAaS3jn.jpg[/t] How would I go about getting 110VDC to power them? I tried AC and they just turn into 60hz buzzers.

[QUOTE=papkee;46759586]So I found a few relays... [t]http://i.imgur.com/XAaS3jn.jpg[/t] How would I go about getting 110VDC to power them? I tried AC and they just turn into 60hz buzzers.[/QUOTE] The coil is DC unless it has a diode inside it, I can't see anything written on it about the coil voltage but it's probably in the range of 12V to 48V. The writing just says the contacts can take 120V AC 12A or 240V AC 10A.

110VDC to the coils? Just utilize a few high voltage rectifier diodes that can accommodate the current requirements (Check the coil's resistance before and then compare to the diode(s) in use). Ninja'd.

You guys ever buy anything from Tayda Electronics? The selection seems more limited, but the shipping is a bit more reasonable than Digikey. Digikey wants 18€ for orders less than 65€, which is a bit ridiculous, but I sort of understand them. But I still hate them for it. But I might still have to use them. But it's going to cost. Just, fuck.

Actually the relays have a coil voltage of 110VDC according to the datasheet. They came from an elevator so they were probably just used for more logic gates than anything.

[QUOTE=nikomo;46759965]You guys ever buy anything from Tayda Electronics? The selection seems more limited, but the shipping is a bit more reasonable than Digikey. Digikey wants 18€ for orders less than 65€, which is a bit ridiculous, but I sort of understand them. But I still hate them for it. But I might still have to use them. But it's going to cost. Just, fuck.[/QUOTE] If you're buying stuff for a finished project you really don't want to use Tayda or any other seller on ebay, DX, etc since they source most / all their stuff from the cheapest places you can find, the result being quality and reliability is highly suspect, major distributors generally source genuine parts so the extra cost is very much worth it. For prototyping it really doesn't matter, although I'd avoid cheap power transistors and capacitors. [editline]21st December 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=papkee;46760017]Actually the relays have a coil voltage of 110VDC according to the datasheet. They came from an elevator so they were probably just used for more logic gates than anything.[/QUOTE] 110V DC is a bit of a pain in the ass to get, without a transformer the only real way to get it is rectify and filter 120V AC and then drop it down with a series resistor so the voltage across the coil is more or less correct. [editline]21st December 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=Chryseus;46760038]If you're buying stuff for a finished project you really don't want to use Tayda or any other seller on ebay, DX, etc since they source most / all their stuff from the cheapest places you can find, the result being quality and reliability is highly suspect, major distributors generally source genuine parts so the extra cost is very much worth it. For prototyping it really doesn't matter, although I'd avoid cheap power transistors and capacitors. [editline]21st December 2014[/editline] 110V DC is a bit of a pain in the ass to get, without a transformer the only real way to get it is to rectify and filter 120V AC and then drop it down with a series resistor so the voltage across the coil is more or less correct.[/QUOTE] [editline]21st December 2014[/editline] God damn FP screwed my post.

Aluminium foil is a really shit material for testing capacitive touch sensing. It worked in reverse somehow. I was getting what I should be getting when I'm not touching it, when I touch it. But I think I like the concept. I need to figure out a way to make it look pretty on a PCB though. Can I just put silkscreen on top of the the typical zigzag touch sensor traces, and still have it work?

[QUOTE=nikomo;46770241]Aluminium foil is a really shit material for testing capacitive touch sensing. It worked in reverse somehow. I was getting what I should be getting when I'm not touching it, when I touch it. But I think I like the concept. I need to figure out a way to make it look pretty on a PCB though. Can I just put silkscreen on top of the the typical zigzag touch sensor traces, and still have it work?[/QUOTE] Whats happening there is that the aluminum is picking up stray RF and noise. mostly 50Hz. But when you touch it you are dissipating charge and any electricity it is picking up, reducing the voltage on the sheet.

I just took the time to search the dimensions for Hakko 900 series tips, and then compared it to what my Tenma station uses. Perfect fit. At least it should be, according to the place I found dimensions at.

[QUOTE=nikomo;46771284]I just took the time to search the dimensions for Hakko 900 series tips, and then compared it to what my Tenma station uses. Perfect fit. At least it should be, according to the place I found dimensions at.[/QUOTE] I really need to see if the Hakko tips will fit on my Radioshack station.

[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/IMG_7723.jpg[/IMG] These old connectors are amazing.