[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;47148215]That's a pretty sweet tool you made, what was the bluetooth module you used?[/QUOTE]
cheap JY-MCU module, which directly makes a Serial connection between phone and arduino.
Opinion on cheap Chinese flux so far, it works but I think I have lung cancer.
Tried using screen to watch the serial output from this wifi board, I'm still getting gibberish in windows and linux, even with screen through BASH. Any other ideas?
Yay, first test run and it works. 500 turns in under 1 minute. Calculated value of the coil (500 turns, 34mm diameter, 32mm length) is 6.05mH i measured 5.95mH im happy with it
[video=youtube;sgb9Bclx_RQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgb9Bclx_RQ[/video]
i did it in 2x 251 steps, 2 extra turns for longer leads after finishing.
[QUOTE=Strider_07;47150935]Tried using screen to watch the serial output from this wifi board, I'm still getting gibberish in windows and linux, even with screen through BASH. Any other ideas?[/QUOTE]
They probably are but are your baud rates both the same?
[QUOTE=nikomo;47150736]Opinion on cheap Chinese flux so far, it works but I think I have lung cancer.[/QUOTE]
Make your own out of rosin and alcohol, you know exactly what's in it then.
A lot of cheaper commercial flux is rosin mixed with a mild activator like carboxylic acids and a solvent, usually with an additional surfactant.
Although I've never had need for anything more active than pure rosin.
[QUOTE=gamerpaddy;47151008]Yay, first test run and it works. 500 turns in under 1 minute. Calculated value of the coil (500 turns, 34mm diameter, 32mm length) is 6.05mH i measured 5.95mH im happy with it
[video=youtube;sgb9Bclx_RQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgb9Bclx_RQ[/video
i did it in 2x 251 steps, 2 extra turns for longer leads after finishing.[/QUOTE]
I love how everything is shaking!
[QUOTE=gamerpaddy;47151008]Yay, first test run and it works. 500 turns in under 1 minute. Calculated value of the coil (500 turns, 34mm diameter, 32mm length) is 6.05mH i measured 5.95mH im happy with it
[video=youtube;sgb9Bclx_RQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgb9Bclx_RQ[/video]
i did it in 2x 251 steps, 2 extra turns for longer leads after finishing.[/QUOTE]
I imagine you'll be upgrading this thing in the future to use something a little more precise than a cheap hobby servo? This is pretty neat!
[QUOTE=Leestons;47151044]They probably are but are your baud rates both the same?[/QUOTE]
Yep, that was the first thing I fiddled with.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;47151187]Make your own out of rosin and alcohol, you know exactly what's in it then.
A lot of cheaper commercial flux is rosin mixed with a mild activator like carboxylic acids and a solvent, usually with an additional surfactant.
Although I've never had need for anything more active than pure rosin.[/QUOTE]
I thought about that, but I couldn't find rosin anywhere.
I went through pretty much all the hardware stores, and then some music shops (because it's also used for violins), those places charge way too much for it.
[img]https://pbs.twimg.com/media/B9lVS2mIMAAg8_R.jpg[/img]
Getting myself a LED cape to toy around with, once it arrives I'll post more updates.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;47153012]I imagine you'll be upgrading this thing in the future to use something a little more precise than a cheap hobby servo? This is pretty neat![/QUOTE]
[B]Oh yes[/B], i allready ordered some parts for replacing the crap cheap servo.
ive planned a linear rail driven by a nema11 stepper and GT2 pulley belt. Travel length 200mm.
So i can program stuff like
-"wind by wire thickness"
-"wind with x mm space between wires" or
-"wind crossover to get high density coil design"
And some improvements on the wobbly threaded rod, the app overall design and code/app code-puzzle release.
If the linear rail works well, i even would upgrade the travel length to 400mm for winding tesla coils.
I am confused.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/fLvyOI0.png[/img]
Build this on a breadboard, it's a 1.2kHz phase shift oscillator, the oscillator part work fine but as soon as I connect the output of the oscillator to the darlington pair the output goes dead like I'm shorting it out, I triple checked my layout and that the transistors are the right way around but it still doesn't work when I'm 110% sure it should, 10k output impedance, 5k input impedance with the -3dB point below 0.2Hz with a 220uF coupling cap, I've tried different transistors as well.
Suppose I better check my breadboard as well, oh and the DC quiescent current it right where I expect at 80mA on 10V.
Ended up ditching the Adafruit WiFi chip for now and just replaced the Arduino Uno I was using with a Yun. I've built a really basic WiFi capable weather station. :dance: Now to get the data moving to the internet. I'm also trying to figure out how I can rig up an anemometer and precipitation gauge to the Yun so I can get a full range of weather data.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;47154436]I am confused.
[Image]
Build this on a breadboard, it's a 1.2kHz phase shift oscillator, the oscillator part work fine but as soon as I connect the output of the oscillator to the darlington pair the output goes dead like I'm shorting it out, I triple checked my layout and that the transistors are the right way around but it still doesn't work when I'm 110% sure it should, 10k output impedance, 5k input impedance with the -3dB point below 0.2Hz with a 220uF coupling cap, I've tried different transistors as well.
Suppose I better check my breadboard as well, oh and the DC quiescent current it right where I expect at 80mA on 10V.[/QUOTE]
Have you tried putting a high impedance buffer in between the output and the input of the darlington pair?
Completed cleaning out all the parts from that projection TV. Lots of dirt. Lots of water that had to be blown out before it went on the drying rack. It will be about a week before I consider it completely dry.
Still not sure what to use it for though. :v: The proper focal depth for the tubes is only 48" so even if I build it into a cabinet you're still only four feet away from the target surface.
I dunno, mount it on the ceiling down onto a fixed table with two cameras to interpret object location on the table?
Also, you can't use the tubes as-is for something like a clock. The anode voltage and current draw means that looking into the tube directly will either blind you or you'll leave atomic blast scorch marks on the wall behind you.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;47154879]Have you tried putting a high impedance buffer in between the output and the input of the darlington pair?[/QUOTE]
A good idea, although it really should work as it is even assuming worst case current gain.
[b]Edit:[/b]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/HQvQ42b.jpg[/t]
Got an air compressor for general cleaning, didn't quite realize how big it is :v:
Messing around with the idea of making a gameboy cart. Thinking about using 1MByte of SRAM with a CPLD/FPGA in between that and the cart interface. The programmable logic would take care of emulating the various mappers/MBCs using the SRAM as a storage backend, and would expose a special mapper allowing the Z80 of the GBC to load data from an SD card and into the SRAM (either directly or by triggering an off-cycle DMA transfer implemented in the logic).
Shitty GBC cartridge breakout:
[url=http://i.imgur.com/HbqlJE7.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/HbqlJE7l.jpg[/img][/url]
Oh shit, the GBC is 5V while my FPGA dev board is 3v3, better cough up some logic level converters:
[url=http://i.imgur.com/GKj7hYX.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/GKj7hYXl.jpg[/img][/url]
Crosstalk @2MHz? Eh, we'll see.
[url=http://i.imgur.com/RsoEDT2.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/RsoEDT2l.jpg[/img][/url]
[QUOTE=q3k;47163767]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/RsoEDT2.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/RsoEDT2l.jpg[/img][/url][/QUOTE]
Is that Windows ME?
[QUOTE=Kirth;47164265]Is that Windows ME?[/QUOTE]
Yes - the true hacker's operating system.
So i've got this small pc fan that i need to power with 12V DC.
I'd like to use a battery that seems to have 14,5V max when charged.
Would this work or would the voltage cause a problem? The fan won't be powered long (max 30mins every once in a while) so i'm wondering if this could work.
[QUOTE=0lenny0;47164312]So i've got this small pc fan that i need to power with 12V DC.
I'd like to use a battery that seems to have 14,5V max when charged.
Would this work or would the voltage cause a problem? The fan won't be powered long (max 30mins every once in a while) so i'm wondering if this could work.[/QUOTE]
I've powered some 120mm PC fans with 24 volts for 3 hours without them burning out.
But your mileage may wary.
Could always use a voltage regulator. LM7812 etc
What would be a good way of figuring out the max voltage of a DC engine without destroying it?
It's salvaged from an old hair dryer and installed in this turbine like housing which I'd rather not break. It does cover up any sort of identification of it though. The highest I've got around to test it with (9V) seems to work fine.
Yey another board in and populated.
[url=http://i.imgur.com/2eEYgU6.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/2eEYgU6l.jpg[/img][/url]
It's a interface card for a HP 8750A storage-normalizer which pretty much adds digital storage to my rather old spectrum analyzer mainframes. Yey.
Also, this is quite nice to use.
[url=http://i.imgur.com/a6Lo5ma.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/a6Lo5mal.jpg[/img][/url]
Dave Jones has one of those JBC stations, it looks nice.
He had a tip for it that had the width of about the length of a normal finger. Ridiculous beast, you could heat up all the connections for a 1602 display, all at once.
Yeah, they have a lot of tips available for this handpiece ranging from stupidly tiny to massive: [url]http://www.jbctools.com/c245-cartridges-product-19-category-4-menu-4.html[/url].
Also, the short working distance is really nice. You can get a even smaller handpiece, the T210, which has a even shorter working distance.
I have an older JBC station, not digital but still heats up just the same. I really love it.
Workbench almost done.
B+ not enough horsepower to display the microscope with VLC, big shocker there. Need to try one other program, but I have a Pi2 coming in probably tomorrow, so that'll also help.
[t]https://i.imgur.com/YSffzuN.jpg[/t]
That grainy photo though
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