Nexus 7 2013 is the best camera I've got.
Poor lighting in that corner, actually, that's why it's so grainy. The Nexus 7 takes decent images as long as you give it enough light.
Not sure what you'd use one of those for, though.
They were demonstrating with chips that the usual SMD process has no problems with, and that's completely useless with BGA.
[QUOTE=nikomo;47176254]Not sure what you'd use one of those for, though.
They were demonstrating with chips that the usual SMD process has no problems with, and that's completely useless with BGA.[/QUOTE]
Not everyone uses BGAs and if it means that you can make your product 10-20 times the normal speed of a reflow oven... nobody really cares too much unless you -really- need BGAs, It's an automated solution that can do both through-hole and SMD in one move.
While it's pretty slow there you could no doubt speed it up much faster with multiple gantries and several lasers moving about above.
I'm glad I got that air compressor, it cleaned my vintage radio right out.
Oh shit I just realized I sat down in a pile of dust, not a smart idea to clean on my chair :v:
[QUOTE=nikomo;47176254]Not sure what you'd use one of those for, though.
They were demonstrating with chips that the usual SMD process has no problems with, and that's completely useless with BGA.[/QUOTE]
I imagine that it's used in automated board manufacture for small series when a stencil isn't available. It's just more precise and comfortable than doing it manually.
So after months of hoarding components and buying stuff of dx.com and bitsbox.co.uk and never ever building something that works I ended my streak after going to my neighbor and picking up a old soldering station with a broken soldering iron and two psu's.
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/BMfWSWQ.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/8bpzo9Z.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/vpyOLSk.jpg[/img_thumb]
So I removed the old soldering iron from the terminals, removed the old un-earthed power cable. Inserted a new earthed power cable and connected that back to the on of mechanism. Removed the big ass transformer since the new soldering iron I was connecting worked directly of 230AC.
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/WdnJ1Qv.jpg[/img_thumb]
I drilled a new hole through the front since I wasn't using the old terminals anymore and put in a piece of rubber with my new bought hot glue gun. Then cut the end of my soldering iron (RIP) and wired everything up hoping it worked. Some cleaning and finishing touches and voila ! A soldering station.
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/6trsTop.jpg[/img_thumb]
[editline]20th February 2015[/editline]
Oh and the red and black wires branching of the main power suppy are going to be used for a regulated power supply at those therminals using something from a old project.
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/WXZ8pI4.jpg[/img_thumb]
But before I do that, back to basic resistor theory :P
I made a hovercraft, it hovers and has a severe case of battery molesting
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2015-02-20 23.16.46.jpg[/t]
the hovering part works perfect, but it doesn't seem to have a lot of thrust for movement. It might be due to the fan itself, the H-bridge or the batteries just not being capable of supplying it all together.
I might also want to make the hole on the bottom of the cushion larger, as that already has proven to reduce friction on previous occasions.
I might also want to replace the whole cushion in general as it's a piece of shit. I cobbled it together to see if it would even float at all with that CPU fan :v:
I'll have to look at switching them out with a LiPo.
How powerful of a laser do you need to straight-up burn 1oz copper off of an FR4 substrate?
My current guess is "shitloads more than you can legally get one, or know how to safely use".
Well that was an interesting few hours, I replaced some caps and resistors in my vintage radio only to find that the filament supply was a dead short when I attempted to power it up, first I thought it was due to my work and spent ages poking around the area I had been working on, eventually I found another filament wire hidden under a layer of old wax that I had somehow managed to crush under a nut when remounting the mains transformer. :suicide:
So I've gotten a crazy (possibly stupid) idea. My mom's health is not so good (she has good days but some days she can barely function), but I remember her saying some time ago that she would've liked to have a CNC plasma table so she could make metal art with it.
So I've challenged myself to construct, from scratch, a CNC plasma table in the whole three months I have until her birthday. :v:
So with that in mind, anyone know of any good free/cheap CAD or CAD-like programs that I can use to sketch up a design for this thing?
I've heard people using and liking FreeCAD.
It uses LGPL2+ as the license, so it's an open source project.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;47181992]So I've gotten a crazy (possibly stupid) idea. My mom's health is not so good (she has good days but some days she can barely function), but I remember her saying some time ago that she would've liked to have a CNC plasma table so she could make metal art with it.
So I've challenged myself to construct, from scratch, a CNC plasma table in the whole three months I have until her birthday. :v:
So with that in mind, anyone know of any good free/cheap CAD or CAD-like programs that I can use to sketch up a design for this thing?[/QUOTE]
OpenSCAD is useful for creating single parts you might need, as you can very precisely control the shape in there. It uses a simple scripting language as input to create 3d models you can use for 3d printing.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;47181992]So I've gotten a crazy (possibly stupid) idea. My mom's health is not so good (she has good days but some days she can barely function), but I remember her saying some time ago that she would've liked to have a CNC plasma table so she could make metal art with it.
So I've challenged myself to construct, from scratch, a CNC plasma table in the whole three months I have until her birthday. :v:
So with that in mind, anyone know of any good free/cheap CAD or CAD-like programs that I can use to sketch up a design for this thing?[/QUOTE]
Try [url=http://solvespace.com/index.pl]Solvespace[/url]. It can do basic 2d and 3d CAD, the .exe is 1.4MB (and runs under Wine) and it's licensed under the GPL.
[url=http://i.imgur.com/t1LZF7B.png][img]http://i.imgur.com/t1LZF7Bl.png[/img][/url]
Although it does tend to get a bit laggy if you have a complicated assembly...
I've got a situation with my hovercraft. When I power up the fan for thrust, it seems the fan for the cushion loses power as the cushion deflates a fair bit.
The thing is, they don't draw more amps than the batteries can deliver (~6 amps, a wire started smoking quite a bit as the multimeter basically caused a short, and seeing how that hasn't happened during normal use I'd say it's more than plenty). Could it be that there's a voltage drop induced somehow?
It also just might be that the engine is mounted far above the CoM and thus forces the thing downwards.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);47183994]I've got a situation with my hovercraft. When I power up the fan for thrust, it seems the fan for the cushion loses power as the cushion deflates a fair bit.
The thing is, they don't draw more amps than the batteries can deliver (~6 amps, a wire started smoking quite a bit as the multimeter basically caused a short, and seeing how that hasn't happened during normal use I'd say it's more than plenty). Could it be that there's a voltage drop induced somehow?
It also just might be that the engine is mounted far above the CoM and thus forces the thing downwards.[/QUOTE]
If you have 6 amps flowing through those tiny battery wires its no wonder they started to smoke. How about you measure the battery voltage as the thing is running?
Got-damn, either I've been out of the loop for a while or not-Chinese ball bearings have always been expensive as tits.
[QUOTE=Amiga OS;47184679]
What could possibly go wrong![/QUOTE]
Is that StarTAC seriously a-okay on Giffgaff? Does it not need a credit-card sized SIM? Sorry for the shite questions, I'm genuinely curious as to how feasible this is.
And I though my Nokia 3210 with a almost dead nimh battery was a working relic.
Hey you sexy geniuses, I'm trying to find an equivalent FET to one which has no datasheet. They're known for blowing in this particular application, a 46" plasma tv, so I want to replace them with something beefier.
The mosfets in question are 16N55G. Really my only concern is figuring out the voltage spec.
They're the drivers of a switchmode section of the powerupply responsible for the V sustain output, which is ~200V. The PCB has isolation slots between the source and drain of each one, and they're both insulated from the heatsink by like a 1.5mm thick sheet of something rigid.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/yO3moDO.png[/img]
Would I be wrong in thinking a replacement spec of say 450V would be adequate?
450V should do the job, if you want to be extra safe get 600V.
Try get ones with a low Rds.
Yay, the linear rail (which is a slider-rail, piece of wood and stepper motor glued onto it) works!
im using an EasyDriver V4.4 clone and Nanotec NEMA11 ST2818M1004 stepper + GT2 pulley/belt
Some stuff i still have to do, like rewriting the app and make it more stable. i had to clamp down something below the belt so the stepper dont skip steps. and some mathematics to calculate movement steps based on wire thickness and coil length.
[video=youtube;wJ5wB1hnx8E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJ5wB1hnx8E[/video]
Sorry for that heavy breathing, im sick.. something wrong with my lungs. Time to cook some meth.
So after nearly two years building a copletely transparent and custom modem interface for a teletype for the sole purpose of dialing into another machine and pulling up a website, I go away for several days and [url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ctLFYSDfQ]some faggot with thick glasses and a turtleneck goes out and does almost the exact same fucking thing using a fraction of the engineering and design I've so far put into my project, stealing ALL of my publicity.[/url]
I want to finish it, but what's the point? From this point on it just looks like a copycat project unless I want to run around with my project photos and say "LOOK, MY OLD TIMESTAMPS!!"
Edited: Uncultured faggot.
:suicide:
[QUOTE=gamerpaddy;47192797]Yay, the linear rail (which is a slider-rail, piece of wood and stepper motor glued onto it) works!
im using an EasyDriver V4.4 clone and Nanotec NEMA11 ST2818M1004 stepper + GT2 pulley/belt
Some stuff i still have to do, like rewriting the app and make it more stable. i had to clamp down something below the belt so the stepper dont skip steps. and some mathematics to calculate movement steps based on wire thickness and coil length.
[video=youtube;wJ5wB1hnx8E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJ5wB1hnx8E[/video]
Sorry for that heavy breathing, im sick.. something wrong with my lungs. Time to cook some meth.[/QUOTE]
I >REALLY< suggest getting a microstepping driver on that to make the motions much smoother.
Having spent a good chunk of today ordering stepper controllers and related hardware for that CNC plasma table, I've discovered to my amazement that in this year, the year 2015, where damn-near everything has a USB connection of some sort on it, that companies still manufacture CNC interface boards with LPT ports on them. :v:
Seriously, most of the ones I'm finding that HAVE a USB connection on them, have them for +5V power only. Thankfully I have a couple of old clunky PCs with motherboards that can be re-purposed for this.
RS232 wouldn't be bad since you just throw a MAX232 in there, and a UART-USB IC.
Having a PC to connect them to isn't the problem currently, so much as eBay seems to be saturated with sheisty Chinese hardware despite selecting "North America" as a filtering option. I mean I'm sure some of the cheap knock-offs from China would work fine, but ehhhh...
Doesnt the easydriver v4.4 has microstepping? Ive set it to 1/4. Im rotating the linear stepper 10 steps after 200 steps of the rotation stepper.
Just the software has some issues... i need to figure out how to move 2 stepper synchronized.
I ordered two of [URL="http://www.dx.com/p/gy-4988-a4988-3d-printer-stepper-motor-driver-module-272515"]these[/URL] stepper drivers yesterday, and from what I've read all you have to do with it is pulse the step pin x times to get x amount of (micro)steps and set the direction pin high/low for which direction you wanna go. has up to 1/16th microstepping.
I don't have them yet so I can't say anything about their quality. They're cheap enough to try in my opinion (don't forget a heat sink, IC can get hot. Most people put a 100uF capacitor between Vmot and GND)
Still watching that youtube video.
33K views and counting......[img]http://i.somethingawful.com/forumsystem/emoticons/emot-smithicide.gif[/img]
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