[QUOTE=pentium;40774380]You might need a little more solder on that.[/QUOTE]
TFW soldering to an aluminum terminal on a speaker, and 60/40 doesn't adhere to it.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;40781303]TFW soldering to an aluminum terminal on a speaker, and 60/40 doesn't adhere to it.[/QUOTE]
Are you sure it's aluminium ?
You should be able to solder it in any case.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;40781303]TFW soldering to an aluminum terminal on a speaker, and 60/40 doesn't adhere to it.[/QUOTE]
It's because you're using a shitty iron.
[QUOTE=Van-man;40782540]It's because you're using a shitty iron.[/QUOTE]
Its RadioShack, so you've got me there
Gotta scrub off surface oxidation before soldering to aluminium.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83UiZDft4Ns[/media]
Made this simple project for the university. A Fan spinning according to temperature with PWM
Is it easier to design layouts on AutoCAD or instead use Eagle CAD and export to a plotter?
[QUOTE=pentium;40804888]Is it easier to design layouts on AutoCAD or instead use Eagle CAD and export to a plotter?[/QUOTE]
In my opinion, AutoCAD is more straightforward
[QUOTE=Jorgetime;40803225][media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83UiZDft4Ns[/media]
Made this simple project for the university. A Fan spinning according to temperature with PWM[/QUOTE]
"isto aqui não está a funcionar porquê?" :v:
I'm hosting a smd-soldering Workshop tomorrow. This is the board I'm going to use:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/ieD3foj.jpg[/img]
Quick question, I have a boost converter outputting 5V for USB power output and I'd like to protect it with a PPTC. However, most PPTCs that I've found with a hold current at 0.5A (The desired maximum safe output current), have a trip current at 1A, beyond the current capabilities of my boost converter which I've calculated at 0.79A to maintain 5V.
Question being, is that how do PPTCs relate current to resistance, do they just shoot up into the M-ohms range as soon as the trip current is reached, or are they linear?
I'm getting the feeling that it'd never reach the trip current if the voltage continues to drop, which in case should I lower the hold current of the PPTCs I should look for?
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;40830111]Quick question, I have a boost converter outputting 5V for USB power output and I'd like to protect it with a PPTC. However, most PPTCs that I've found with a hold current at 0.5A (The desired maximum safe output current), have a trip current at 1A, beyond the current capabilities of my boost converter which I've calculated at 0.79A to maintain 5V.
Question being, is that how do PPTCs relate current to resistance, do they just shoot up into the M-ohms range as soon as the trip current is reached, or are they linear?
I'm getting the feeling that it'd never reach the trip current if the voltage continues to drop, which in case should I lower the hold current of the PPTCs I should look for?[/QUOTE]
Most USB ports uses a polyfuse afaik, shouldn't they fit the bill pretty nicely? I'm just talking out of my ass btw, I haven't really worked with them ever, it's just an observation.
[QUOTE=BuG;40830185]Most USB ports uses a polyfuse afaik, shouldn't they fit the bill pretty nicely? I'm just talking out of my ass btw, I haven't really worked with them ever, it's just an observation.[/QUOTE]
Strange thing about them is that through negotiation, they can draw more current, which lends to the conclusion they have some power controller with switched polyfuses. But I could just pull one from an old mobo, thanks.
Polyfuses are too slow in my opinion.
Better to use a real fuse.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;40831296]Polyfuses are too slow in my opinion.
Better to use a real fuse.[/QUOTE]
This is entirely depending on the application.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;40831296]Polyfuses are too slow in my opinion.
Better to use a real fuse.[/QUOTE]
Isnt the idea of polyfuses to be resettable? therefore making a normal fuse not ideal?
[QUOTE=SubbyV-2;40838099]Isnt the idea of polyfuses to be resettable? therefore making a normal fuse not ideal?[/QUOTE]
Yep.
[url]http://www.theamphour.com/the-amp-hour-147-absorptive-augmented-actuality/[/url]
I didn't know anywhere else to put this, it's the AR that the ex valve employees are doing that was shown at maker faire. It's audio only.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;40829783]I'm hosting a smd-soldering Workshop tomorrow. This is the board I'm going to use:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/ieD3foj.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
What does it do?
[QUOTE=TTSDA;40877429]What does it do?[/QUOTE]
attiny 9 demoboard with a shift register on it
I'm looking into designing and building a quad-copter on the cheap. Buying one is boring (and expensive) and I kinda want to do it without using any kind of kit (so I'd buy the motors, propellers and chassis parts all separately - as well as designing the chassis itself maybe). I also want to build my own flight controller rather than buy a premade one... I got a raspberry pi I could use to control it, which I'd program myself.
My question is, do you guys know of any electic gyroscopes I can use? All the ones I found on the internet are really expensive for some reason ($40+, is this normal for gyroscopes?). I guess I'll need 3-axis ones, I've never really done anything like this before.
I was also thinking of attaching a mobile broadband dongle to the pi and a shitty webcam and trying to control it from my PC.
[QUOTE=thomasfn;40889967]I'm looking into designing and building a quad-copter on the cheap. Buying one is boring (and expensive) and I kinda want to do it without using any kind of kit (so I'd buy the motors, propellers and chassis parts all separately - as well as designing the chassis itself maybe). I also want to build my own flight controller rather than buy a premade one... I got a raspberry pi I could use to control it, which I'd program myself.
My question is, do you guys know of any electic gyroscopes I can use? All the ones I found on the internet are really expensive for some reason ($40+, is this normal for gyroscopes?). I guess I'll need 3-axis ones, I've never really done anything like this before.
I was also thinking of attaching a mobile broadband dongle to the pi and a shitty webcam and trying to control it from my PC.[/QUOTE]
Building an ESC isn't trivial to say the least. There's a buttload of stuff you have to consider, and a lot can go wrong. A Pi isn't the right platform for an ESC.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;40890220]Building an ESC isn't trivial to say the least. There's a buttload of stuff you have to consider, and a lot can go wrong. A Pi isn't the right platform for an ESC.[/QUOTE]
Just as a note, ESC stands for Electronic Speed Controller, what he's talking about is the flight controller which the RasPi is more than capable of being. You're right however that the software is non trivial but there are already RasPi flight controller projects out there that he could use the code from.
[url]https://code.google.com/p/owenquad/[/url]
[url]http://www.botched.co.uk/picopters-maiden-flight/[/url]
The most popular cheap accelerometer/gyro package is the MPU6050 which you can get from eBay for a few quid: [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400451110850[/url]
[QUOTE=Xera;40890783]Just as a note, ESC stands for Electronic Speed Controller, what he's talking about is the flight controller which the RasPi is more than capable of being. You're right however that the software is non trivial but there are already RasPi flight controller projects out there that he could use the code from.
[url]https://code.google.com/p/owenquad/[/url]
[url]http://www.botched.co.uk/picopters-maiden-flight/[/url]
The most popular cheap accelerometer/gyro package is the MPU6050 which you can get from eBay for a few quid: [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400451110850[/url][/QUOTE]
It might be able to do it, in the same way you can hammer nails in with a spade. It's not quite the right tool and you could get something pretty cheap and much smaller and lighter (thus meaning you could build a much smaller and cheaper quadrotor, or just allow you more power)
[QUOTE=metallics;40891117]It might be able to do it, in the same way you can hammer nails in with a spade. It's not quite the right tool and you could get something pretty cheap and much smaller and lighter (thus meaning you could build a much smaller and cheaper quadrotor, or just allow you more power)[/QUOTE]
The weight difference of a few grams means nothing, the Pi weighs no more than some of the fancier flight control boards on the market and any quad that doesn't fly like shit will have tons of power left over.
The extra processing power leaves room for things like data logging, WiFi flight control, tweaking parameters from a laptop wirelessly, GPS, video streaming, remote location (Think GPS + GSM for if you lose it) with way more room for expansion than any Atmel based FC available.
So while it's more difficult, more expensive and less polished (None of which I was disagreeing with in my original reply) than a cheap ready made flight controller like the KK2 it has advantages.
[QUOTE=Xera;40891619]The weight difference of a few grams means nothing, the Pi weighs no more than some of the fancier flight control boards on the market and any quad that doesn't fly like shit will have tons of power left over.
The extra processing power leaves room for things like data logging, WiFi flight control, tweaking parameters from a laptop wirelessly, GPS, video streaming, remote location (Think GPS + GSM for if you lose it) with way more room for expansion than any Atmel based FC available.
So while it's more difficult, more expensive and less polished (None of which I was disagreeing with in my original reply) than a cheap ready made flight controller like the KK2 it has advantages.[/QUOTE]
Those grams all add up to cut into precious flight time. You can do all of your listed things with ATmel based solutions.
[QUOTE=metallics;40891657]Those grams all add up to cut into precious flight time. You can do all of your listed things with ATmel based solutions.[/QUOTE]
Maybe not video streaming, though the others yes. A proper microcontroller would have less overhead and is less sensitive to fucking up, where according to the Raspberry Pi wiki it's not really recommended to drive an LED directly.
[QUOTE=metallics;40891657]Those grams all add up to cut into precious flight time. You can do all of your listed things with ATmel based solutions.[/QUOTE]
The flight controller is the lightest thing in the whole quad bar the props and the difference between a KK2 and a Pi is 24 grams. (21 vs 45) That much weight will not affect the quad in any way possible, unless you're counting the split second flight time difference.
To give you an idea the frame will weigh probably 10 times as much if you're going for a 330 size quad, the battery at least 400 grams, the motors another few hundred grams on top of that, not to mention all of the wiring. For a decent flight you want double the AUW in thrust. (Hovering at mid stick)
My 330 quad is currently running 1000kV motors with 8x4.5 props and a 4S battery. It has tons of extra lift and flies for easily 10-12 minutes (At 12 minutes the pack is starting to warm up and it's pretty much at 3.1v per cell) on a 2200mAh pack. I could replace the motors with 1200kV ones and get a stupid amount of lift (I could lift a DSLR with it currently if I wanted, with a rough calculation it has about 800 grams of extra lift) or I could slap on a couple 5000mAh batteries for insane flight times. I could move up to a 450mm frame, keep the same motors and use a 10x4 prop on 3S (Which I've done, but I switched to the 330 frame and 4S when I dove it into the ground from about 50m up in a flip and they had no stock of the 450 frames) and lift even MORE batteries, plus a decent sized camera.
Even a tiny quad (Anything that isn't one of those micro toy quads) will have several hundreds of grams of extra lift, 20 grams is fuck all.
The amount of extra weight added by the Pi (Which isn't even the heaviest FC you could use) makes absolutely NO difference. Whatsoever. Do you have any experience with quads and helis?
[QUOTE=benjgvps;40892462]Maybe not video streaming, though the others yes. A proper microcontroller would have less overhead and is less sensitive to fucking up, where according to the Raspberry Pi wiki it's not really recommended to drive an LED directly.[/QUOTE]
Of course, you don't drive anything directly from the processor gpio, you use an interface. A microcontroller has less over head but if you're careful you can get the control loop running just fine in an OS environment, while still having more than enough power to do all sorts. Want to remotely (Say via GSM) send GPS way points to your quad? Sure. Want to have it text you its location if it crashes while doing so? Easy. Video streaming is limited to good ol' analogue video transmission via whatever frequency you're allowed in your country, which is fine if all you want is a low quality fuzzy image, but not so if you want to use the transmitted image for anything. Find me a flight controller on the market that is as flexible. (There isn't one)
I'm not saying it's a perfect solution, it's a pain in the ass at the moment because you've gotta use another chip to interface the motors and receiver to the Pi but it really is unmatched in terms of potential features.
[url]http://www.sears.com/hp-4085b-hewlett-packard-switching-matrix/p-SPM7109810908?prdNo=43&PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=39869:4:0[/url]
Sears, what are you doing?
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