Electrical Engineering V2 - Developers

[QUOTE=Chryseus;42316253]Real men program with a soldering iron.[/QUOTE] That's what I do, but my clothes won't be smelling like lead after I finish coding an Arduino and that's a big plus. [editline]26th September 2013[/editline] And no, proper ventilation doesn't cut it when you use shitty solder.

[QUOTE=Chryseus;42316253]Real men program with a soldering iron.[/QUOTE] [URL="http://robotroom.com/AlphanumericDisplay.html"]Diode Array ROM[/URL], for the real pros

That looks incredibly tedious to do

That's nothing when it comes to electronics. [url]http://www.pa4tim.nl/?p=2662[/url]

[QUOTE=Mr. Epicness;42316178]Well, Arduino seems more like programming to me.[/QUOTE] Using an Arduino would be electronic engineering (at a push), specifically embedded electronics. That's like the most miniscule part of it though, a coilgun is serious electrical engineering if you're doing it properly.

[QUOTE=Fuxed;42317839]Using an Arduino would be electronic engineering (at a push), specifically embedded electronics. That's like the most miniscule part of it though, a coilgun is serious electrical engineering if you're doing it properly.[/QUOTE] I wanted to use the Arduino simply to control the timing of coils and the display of my coilgun.

[QUOTE=Cittidel;42317737]That looks incredibly tedious to do[/QUOTE] Things like that can be very tedious if done in a bad method, large things involving 100s of repetative diode layouts ect, i'd make a jig up for it to speed up the process. EDIT: LED Jig for matrix: [img]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y277/boscheb/led_jig_zps09e4a285.jpg[/img]

-snip-

[QUOTE=DrDevil;42320748]Too durnk ti even ekectronics [editline]27th September 2013[/editline] ah shit -snip- that[/QUOTE] That's when the best stuff happens! Who hasn't woken up drunk to a bizarre charlieplexing setup?! Also, if anyones interested in some ghetto 3-axis stuff/how to integrate EE to Chem eng, I'll do a buildlog on my pet project.

-snip-

[QUOTE=DrDevil;42321148]I really jist hopr a mod won't pui me[/QUOTE] Post some videos from EEVblog and you'll be a solid contributor

[QUOTE=Chryseus;42316253]Real men program with a soldering iron.[/QUOTE] Here comes analog Hitler everybody.

[QUOTE=SubbyV-2;42323280]Here comes analog Hitler everybody.[/QUOTE] All Hail our vacuum tube overlords!

I managed to put this simple reaction game thingy I made using the Arduino on an ATtiny84 Before [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2012-12-28%2015.00.10.jpg[/t] and now [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/IMAG0226.jpg[/t] If the 85 had 6 instead of 5 useable pins I would've been able to use that one (this is also why the second screenshot only has 3 lights & buttons instead of 4 since I tried putting it on the 85 first, and I can't be bothered to put back in a 4th one now that it all works as I want) I should try soldering this thing together, nice and compact. [editline]27th September 2013[/editline] oh lol the 84 and 85 are both as expensive, but the 84 has more than twice the useable pins than the 85, so price wise it doesn't matter a single bit.

I should make a simple shield for uploading stuff to my ATTiny's instead of messing with loose cables each time. It would be very easy to make and save a lot of hassle.

Use a ZIF-Socket for maximum comfort.

The problem with ATtiny 84 (14 pins) and 85's (8 pins) is that the pins used to program it are in entire different spots, so I will just have 2 sockets linked up in a different order. [editline]27th September 2013[/editline] and the store I buy my shit only has an 28 pin ZIF (not that that is any issue besides size)

[QUOTE=scratch (nl);42325819]The problem with ATtiny 84 (14 pins) and 85's (8 pins) is that the pins used to program it are in entire different spots, so I will just have 2 sockets linked up in a different order. [editline]27th September 2013[/editline] and the store I buy my shit only has an 28 pin ZIF[/QUOTE] Use jumpers to make it reconfigurable.

but the reason for me to make the shield is to not have loose cables lying around :v:. I will just use a 14 and 8 pin socket and have the wires split to where they have to go.

Use jumpers like this: [t]http://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/thumbnails.inkfrog.com/pix/jamestrieu/jumper_pin_1.jpg/450/0[/t] in a layout like this: [img]http://i.imgur.com/fcqSpFT.png[/img] That way you can connect whichever dataline to any pin, and it'll be compact and without a mess. Plus pins and jumpers are super cheap.

lol I read this right after ordering everything :v: thanks for the info though.

So my Electronics teacher emailed the chief moderator for the coursework that i'm doing with the idea I mentioned a page or two ago ([URL="http://facepunch.com/showthread.php?t=1250138&p=42272576&viewfull=1#post42272576"]Link[/URL]) just to check if it's allowed or not, now just to wait for the response :/

could use some DIP switches to configure where the RX and TX go :D

It all looked so neat before I started adding wires [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-09-27%2015.33.17.jpg[/t] still ok [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-09-28%2015.20.57.jpg[/t] and eventually it became a bit of a mess (I might mess around with some wires, especially the ones in the middle leading to the buttons as some are quite a bit too long) [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-09-28%2019.22.54.jpg[/t] [t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-09-28%2019.16.15.jpg[/t] First time I've done this, same goes for soldering. I'll practice soldering random stuff before jumping into the horror below this board, as I do not want to fuck it up too badly. [editline]28th September 2013[/editline] Anyone got an idea for something small using an ATtiny 85 (which has 5 pins I can use)? I am thinking about a small heat sensor thingy with a LED getting brighter as it gets hotter and stuff. I'd like to keep it both small in size and complexity.

Add them to the bottom duh

[img]http://puu.sh/4CsNs.png[/img] I don't understand this circuit, if you have a Voltmeter and a resistor in parallel, wont the electricity go the path of least resistance (through the voltmeter, presumably) and skip the resistor going straight to the LED? Is there something I am not understanding?

[QUOTE=toaster468;42336527][img]http://puu.sh/4CsNs.png[/img] I don't understand this circuit, if you have a Voltmeter and a resistor in parallel, wont the electricity go the path of least resistance (through the voltmeter, presumably) and skip the resistor going straight to the LED? Is there something I am not understanding?[/QUOTE] The voltmeter inherently defines a very high resistance (Typically above 10M ohms), thus most of the current will flow through the resistor, this is assuming of course the voltmeter is measuring the voltage difference across the resistor (VDC mode). If the multimeter was in current mode measuring current in line with the circuit, then it'd register a short circuit and probably blow the internal fuse of the meter and fry the LED.

[QUOTE=toaster468;42336527][img]http://puu.sh/4CsNs.png[/img] I don't understand this circuit, if you have a Voltmeter and a resistor in parallel, wont the electricity go the path of least resistance (through the voltmeter, presumably) and skip the resistor going straight to the LED? Is there something I am not understanding?[/QUOTE] Yes but they thought of that and put a really high value resistor (10 megaohms usually) in the voltmeter so that it wont be the path of least resistance.

An unusually informative video from Dave. [video=youtube;Y0jkPLuFdnM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0jkPLuFdnM[/video]

Anyone familiar with AVRs and avr-gcc interrupts? I've had this problem a long while back but now its resurfaced. In a nutshell, I have a interrupt vector to run whenever a 38kHz IR receiver detects a signal, however instead of running the interrupt routine, it simply resets the AVR. Advice?