Oh, you've got a really fancy one!
I've just ordered a papilio one, so it's basically an FPGA plus a programming interface (the wings are crap/overpriced), but I've got plenty of doodads to attach it to that I can do interesting things with.
So I'm making a car radio to replace my current one because its terrible and I should have researched this model before getting it.
So far, its gonna be arduino based, with an FM receiver, MP3/WAV/OGG playback, and [I]maybe[/I] an AUX jack if I feel like it. Also other standard things like time and maybe date.
Also I'd like it to use a VFD panel instead of an LCD one, functionally because of the superior response time, contrast, and viewing angle and also because VFDs are fucking cool and I want to have an excuse to play with one.
Is there [I]anything[/I] I should know before starting this? It'll ultimately be babby's first arduino project.
Also in researching VFDs I found this thing
[img]http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/datvfd/fip60b30t/fip60b30t-l0.jpg[/img]
A dedicated VFD round-faced clock tube. Too big to fit in a single DIN or even a double DIN practically, but I want one because [I]come on man its awesome.[/I] I have a part number for it but it looks like virtually nobody is selling them despite the page that pic came from showing box full of em.
Hmm, FPGAs are something I always wanted to get into, or atleast learn Verilog so I can write new "Hardware" for PSoCs.
[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;42272576]Both grade A examples i've been shown use PICAXE chips so it's possible to get high marks by using solutions like #2/#3. I found a blog post where somebody used shift registers to output a number to 4 seven segment displays and there only needs to be minimal changes made to the code to make it work.
This is the circuit diagram for a "High A grade" - [url]http://puu.sh/4xtym.png[/url]
Diagram for a "Low A grade" - [url]http://puu.sh/4xtBZ.png[/url]
[B]This is the circuit diagram I found in the blog post (pretty much exactly what I want) - [url]http://puu.sh/4xtHn.png[/url][/B][/QUOTE]
Update
Apparently doing something like this isn't in the "spirit" of the course because an Arduino is a pre-made PCB, oh well.
Is there any way I can swap out the Arduino for a PICAXE chip?
Here is the code that would of been on the Arduino - [URL="http://www.sqlskills.com/blogs/paulselec/post/arduino-cascading-shift-registers-to-drive-7-segment-displays.aspx"]Link[/URL] (scroll down a bit)
The code that sends the serial data to the shift registers is in the "sendSerialData" function.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;42404838]Hmm, FPGAs are something I always wanted to get into, or atleast learn Verilog so I can write new "Hardware" for PSoCs.[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.eecg.utoronto.ca/~jayar/ece241_07F/lab2.pdf[/url]
Taking a course on digital circuits that requires design/etc on the FPGA. Cost me $150 to get that DE2 >.>
Whoopsie, little battery leak:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/hp3o0iM.jpg[/t]
Last screams for help:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/4tx1q0N.png[/img]
Would it be appropriate to ask a question about impedance for audio equipment in here?
[QUOTE=Most wanteD;42414428]Would it be appropriate to ask a question about impedance for audio equipment in here?[/QUOTE]
Yup, this is EE, so shoot away
[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;42407122]Update
Apparently doing something like this isn't in the "spirit" of the course because an Arduino is a pre-made PCB, oh well.
Is there any way I can swap out the Arduino for a PICAXE chip?
Here is the code that would of been on the Arduino - [URL="http://www.sqlskills.com/blogs/paulselec/post/arduino-cascading-shift-registers-to-drive-7-segment-displays.aspx"]Link[/URL] (scroll down a bit)
The code that sends the serial data to the shift registers is in the "sendSerialData" function.[/QUOTE]
You can buy the atmega chips by themselves and the surrounding circuitry is well documented. Thats probably the closest you will get. I think there are even instructions online to burn the arduino bootloader on them if you wish so you could use the same code. Picaxe chips are hateful.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;42414219]Whoopsie, little battery leak:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/hp3o0iM.jpg[/t]
Last screams for help:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/4tx1q0N.png[/img][/QUOTE]
Reminds me of that time I tried to install Linux (cant remember the distro) on a beagleboard, over serial
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4838268/serialadapaters.png[/img]
[editline]5th October 2013[/editline]
Oh yeah, that serial link itself was a shitty board that had a USB port which could to serial terminal, and I had it hooked up to the bealgeboard serial, with some simple code to bridge them
I really should get a bus pirate
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;42415606]Yup, this is EE, so shoot away[/QUOTE]
I've got a Marantz 170DC amp, which can support a minimum impedance of 4 Ohms. I think that's how you say it? Anyways, I've got a subwoofer with an impedance of 2 Ohms. It's been made quite clear that I shouldn't run the system like that. I know I could buy another one and run them in series to double the impedance and halve the wattage; that much is also quite clear from googling. However, I also have some 8 Ohm monitors, which I have been using exclusively thus far. Is it possible to run the subwoofer in series with one of the monitors to average out the impedance to something more sustainable?
Also, the amp has a DC switch on the back. Is that worth anything in this situation?
[QUOTE=Tobba;42416506]Reminds me of that time I tried to install Linux (cant remember the distro) on a beagleboard, over serial
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4838268/serialadapaters.png[/img]
[editline]5th October 2013[/editline]
Oh yeah, that serial link itself was a shitty board that had a USB port which could to serial terminal, and I had it hooked up to the bealgeboard serial, with some simple code to bridge them
I really should get a bus pirate[/QUOTE]
Yeah, linux sometimes is really dramatic in that regard:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/0qdq4f5.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=metallics;42416221]You can buy the atmega chips by themselves and the surrounding circuitry is well documented. Thats probably the closest you will get. I think there are even instructions online to burn the arduino bootloader on them if you wish so you could use the same code. Picaxe chips are hateful.[/QUOTE]
Seems like an awful lot of extra work just to keep the programming side simple.
[QUOTE=Most wanteD;42416575]I've got a Marantz 170DC amp, which can support a minimum impedance of 4 Ohms. I think that's how you say it? Anyways, I've got a subwoofer with an impedance of 2 Ohms. It's been made quite clear that I shouldn't run the system like that. I know I could buy another one and run them in series to double the impedance and halve the wattage; that much is also quite clear from googling. However, I also have some 8 Ohm monitors, which I have been using exclusively thus far. Is it possible to run the subwoofer in series with one of the monitors to average out the impedance to something more sustainable?
Also, the amp has a DC switch on the back. Is that worth anything in this situation?[/QUOTE]
There is not a lot you can do, either buy another sub or you could put two 1 Ohm resistors in.
[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;42417181]Seems like an awful lot of extra work just to keep the programming side simple.[/QUOTE]
Not if you already have a ISP programmer.
If you get an ISP, get the official one from Atmel. Trust me, it'll save you troubles.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;42417290]If you get an ISP, get the official one from Atmel. Trust me, it'll save you troubles.[/QUOTE]
I've never had problems with others.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;42417296]I've never had problems with others.[/QUOTE]
But it looks like a cool spaceship
At the moment i've got two options then,
Creating my own Arduino and have to do a few modifications to the code,
or use a PICAXE chip and have to write entirely new code.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;42417326]But it looks like a cool spaceship[/QUOTE]
Also priced as such.
Go with the arduino. "Building" your own arduino is really next to no effort. Literally all you need is an external crystal and a few capacitors. Sometimes you can even buy everything as a kit so you only have to plug it into your breadboard and then you're ready to go.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;42417637]Go with the arduino. "Building" your own arduino is really next to no effort. Literally all you need is an external crystal and a few capacitors. Sometimes you can even buy everything as a kit so you only have to plug it into your breadboard and then you're ready to go.[/QUOTE]
I'll consider it, but i've only got 3 weeks to breadboard and have a final PCB layout - so i'll probably go for the easier PICAXE option.
[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;42417826]I'll consider it, but i've only got 3 weeks to breadboard and have a final PCB layout - so i'll probably go for the easier PICAXE option.[/QUOTE]
How does it get any easier than this?!
[img]http://i.imgur.com/NCvBa5S.png[/img]
[editline]5th October 2013[/editline]
Additionally you can add some more capacitors across VCC and GND to make the AVR/Arduino run more stably, especially if you connect LEDs to the pins you'll need that.
I had to use picaxe at gcse and it was utter cack and totally rubbish in terms of learning anything useful tbf.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;42417837]How does it get any easier than this?!
[img]http://i.imgur.com/NCvBa5S.png[/img]
[editline]5th October 2013[/editline]
Additionally you can add some more capacitors across VCC and GND to make the AVR/Arduino run more stably, especially if you connect LEDs to the pins you'll need that.[/QUOTE]
The crystal and 22pf capacitors can even be shaved away if replaced with a 16mhz resonator.
Although you're missing the capacitors on the power input lines.
It can be as simple as this:
[url]http://tinkerprojects.blogspot.com/2012/06/minimal-arduino-on-small-stripboard.html[/url]
[QUOTE=Chryseus;42417296]I've never had problems with others.[/QUOTE]
USBASP is pretty good when their firmware is up to date.
I should've realized that if I were to order a total of 100 groups of 20 resistors I would have to sort them all out.
I did not
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-10-02 18.51.51.jpg[/t]
now I got to identify 100 of the damn things :v:. The tape does have numbers on it but it's so fucking impossible to read that it barely helps.
What was also confusing is that I didn't know there were different colour schemes for different resistors, and the little guide on the picture (which isn't any use for the resistors I ordered) which was with the delivery did nothing but confuse me.
[editline]5th October 2013[/editline]
also, I managed to break a pin of one of the 14 pin sockets and badly bend the ATtiny on pic after trying to get the ATtiny out of said socket. Atleast the broken pin wasn't going to be used in my current project anyway, so I got pretty lucky on that.
[QUOTE=Most wanteD;42416575]I've got a Marantz 170DC amp, which can support a minimum impedance of 4 Ohms. I think that's how you say it? Anyways, I've got a subwoofer with an impedance of 2 Ohms. It's been made quite clear that I shouldn't run the system like that. I know I could buy another one and run them in series to double the impedance and halve the wattage; that much is also quite clear from googling. However, I also have some 8 Ohm monitors, which I have been using exclusively thus far. Is it possible to run the subwoofer in series with one of the monitors to average out the impedance to something more sustainable?
[/QUOTE]
Yes, You need some sort of crossover though to that the speakers only get their intended frequency ranges. If you put a sub without a built in low pass filter on the same outputs as your main speakers you'd end up with the sub trying to play full range material (Without too much success) while your main speakers are playing out the frequencies intended for the sub.
The second scenario can cause numerous problems with phase cancellation depending on speaker placement (This will manifest itself as VERY lumpy bass response). Consumer grade subs will usually have a low-pass filter built in but your main speakers wouldn't have a high pass.
So me and DrDevil discussed the possibility of me creating my own Arduino for the project but in the end (due to exam board influences, etc), it doesn't seem to be the best option.
But here's the diagram for the circuit using a PICAXE chip (Constructive criticism would be nice).
[t]http://puu.sh/4IhBE.png[/t]
[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;42420371]So me and DrDevil discussed the possibility of me creating my own Arduino for the project but in the end (due to exam board influences, etc), it doesn't seem to be the best option.
But here's the diagram for the circuit using a PICAXE chip (Constructive criticism would be nice).
[t]http://puu.sh/4IhBE.png[/t][/QUOTE]
You want a resistor (220R is fine) between the LED cathodes and the collectors of the NPNs - bipolar transistors behave kind of like current amplifiers (yeah yeah Ebers-Moll I know), and you'll probably damage the shift register without a current limiting resistor.
5k or so is fine on the bases.
[editline]blah[/editline]
Like this:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/dH7eQnA.png[/IMG]
[editline]blah[/editline]
I also think you might want some pulldown resistors on those button inputs, I don't know whether the PIC is set up to do that internally.
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
