[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;42420371]So me and DrDevil discussed the possibility of me creating my own Arduino for the project but in the end (due to exam board influences, etc), it doesn't seem to be the best option.
But here's the diagram for the circuit using a PICAXE chip (Constructive criticism would be nice).
[t]http://puu.sh/4IhBE.png[/t][/QUOTE]
Can the 3x 7-segs have independent displays? Or are all of them displaying the same thing? (and the PICAXE then controls which one is on)
[QUOTE=Angus725;42420696]Can the 3x 7-segs have independent displays? Or are all of them displaying the same thing? (and the PICAXE then controls which one is on)[/QUOTE]
The three transistors are turning on one display at a time, and the microcontroller cycles rapidly between the displays to give the illusion that they're all on at the same instant. The scheme's called time-division multiplexing.
[QUOTE=Angus725;42420696]Can the 3x 7-segs have independent displays? Or are all of them displaying the same thing? (and the PICAXE then controls which one is on)[/QUOTE]
They all display the same thing and then the PICAXE controls which one is on, but it uses Time division multiplexing to all display different numbers.
[editline]5th October 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=r0b0tsquid;42420543]You want a resistor (220R is fine) between the LED cathodes and the collectors of the NPNs - bipolar transistors behave kind of like current amplifiers (yeah yeah Ebers-Moll I know), and you'll probably damage the shift register without a current limiting resistor.
5k or so is fine on the bases.
[editline]blah[/editline]
Like this:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/dH7eQnA.png[/img][/QUOTE]
Updated, better?
[t]http://puu.sh/4IlRG.png[/t]
[QUOTE=Chryseus;42417203]There is not a lot you can do, either buy another sub or you could put two 1 Ohm resistors in.[/QUOTE]
In that case, would it be as easy as soldering two resistors to the positive terminal?
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;42420360]Yes, You need some sort of crossover though to that the speakers only get their intended frequency ranges. If you put a sub without a built in low pass filter on the same outputs as your main speakers you'd end up with the sub trying to play full range material (Without too much success) while your main speakers are playing out the frequencies intended for the sub.
The second scenario can cause numerous problems with phase cancellation depending on speaker placement (This will manifest itself as VERY lumpy bass response). Consumer grade subs will usually have a low-pass filter built in but your main speakers wouldn't have a high pass.[/QUOTE]
How would that work, sequence wise? Amp > monitor > crossover > sub > amp?
[QUOTE=r0b0tsquid;42420543]You want a resistor (220R is fine) between the LED cathodes and the collectors of the NPNs - bipolar transistors behave kind of like current amplifiers (yeah yeah Ebers-Moll I know), and you'll probably damage the shift register without a current limiting resistor.
5k or so is fine on the bases.
[editline]blah[/editline]
Like this:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/dH7eQnA.png[/IMG]
[editline]blah[/editline]
I also think you might want some pulldown resistors on those button inputs, I don't know whether the PIC is set up to do that internally.[/QUOTE]
If you do it fast enough you don't really need resistors.
Hey it works!
[video=youtube;xg5YYbzVLN0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xg5YYbzVLN0[/video]
So this Wednesday, my school is having it's first Electronics Club meeting and we are expected around 30 people.
Time to show off LED cubes and shit.
Dude you're gonna get drowned in pussy
Nah man, it's mostly guys that signed up.
You're gonna be ankle deep in pussy
Dude you're gonna get drowned in dicks
Does anybody know of ICs like this: [url]http://www.consonance-elec.com/seriesCN3063-E.html[/url]
That are a bit more common? Preferrably available on digikey.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;42437278]Does anybody know of ICs like this: [url]http://www.consonance-elec.com/seriesCN3063-E.html[/url]
That are a bit more common? Preferrably available on digikey.[/QUOTE]
This may work for what you're looking for, plus it has a wider voltage range and higher output current capabilities, however it does not have internal temperature monitoring circuitry for the battery:
[URL="http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Freescale-Semiconductor/MC34673AEPR2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMug9GoBKXZ751KA8L%2fmf0rZzt%252bx%252bsYhdb8%3d"]MC34673A - Freescale - Mouser - $0.92 USD[/URL]
Where's the best place to get components in the UK? I've looked at RS and Mouser but they both have high delivery charges (especially Mouser).
[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;42440122]Where's the best place to get components in the UK? I've looked at RS and Mouser but they both have high delivery charges (especially Mouser).[/QUOTE]
bitsbox?
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;42439415]This may work for what you're looking for, plus it has a wider voltage range and higher output current capabilities, however it does not have internal temperature monitoring circuitry for the battery:
[URL="http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Freescale-Semiconductor/MC34673AEPR2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMug9GoBKXZ751KA8L%2fmf0rZzt%252bx%252bsYhdb8%3d"]MC34673A - Freescale - Mouser - $0.92 USD[/URL][/QUOTE]
Not quite, the gimmick with the other one was that you can set the charge current with a voltage instead of a resistor, allowing you to reduce the charge current if your solar cell is partially shaded.
[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;42440122]Where's the best place to get components in the UK? I've looked at RS and Mouser but they both have high delivery charges (especially Mouser).[/QUOTE]
Farnell / Element14 are awesome if you need to order a lot of components or something more expensive.
Conrad UK is also pretty good for some things.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;42441689]Farnell / Element14 are awesome if you need to order a lot of components or something more expensive.
Conrad UK is also pretty good for some things.[/QUOTE]
Avoid Conrad for components, they are horribly overpriced.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;42441749]Avoid Conrad for components, they are horribly overpriced.[/QUOTE]
Depends, they have a pretty decent pricing and selection on some of the less common things like rail to rail op-amps and instrumentation amplifiers.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;42441689]Farnell / Element14 are awesome if you need to order a lot of components or something more expensive.[/QUOTE]
The only downside to Farnell is that they can be iffy about the card used for payment, so make sure you have a proper Visa (not Electron) or Mastercard debit card. Beyond that they're usually the best option for bigger purchases. Great customer support too.
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;42433970]You're gonna be ankle deep in pussy[/QUOTE]
I'll tell you guys how it goes
Bought my components from Bitsbox, their pricing is a lot more attractive than Amazon/RS.
[QUOTE=Dorkslayz;42440122]Where's the best place to get components in the UK? I've looked at RS and Mouser but they both have high delivery charges (especially Mouser).[/QUOTE]
I like Farnell for general components and Sparkfun for other electronics gadgets. I'd rather look for a local provider, though.
Analogue/Linear circuits midterm tomorrow... mmm
[editline]8th October 2013[/editline]
-snip, unfortunate source of confusion.
Electronics club tomorrow...
[QUOTE=Angus725;42461090]Analogue/Linear circuits midterm tomorrow... mmm
[editline]8th October 2013[/editline]
-snip, unfortunate source of confusion.[/QUOTE]
Went OK. Thevinin-Norton is not my strong suite...
Next up, more Verilog+FPGA programming! (this time with registers)
Also, just joined IEEE, not sure how I feel about it.
[editline]asd[/editline]
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64514745/DFF.png[/img]
Mmm, vaguely resembles certain Minecraft redstone circuits...
Got my first arduino today :smile:
Some of last night's progress:
[video=youtube;D-PNVibYDKs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-PNVibYDKs[/video]
Shift registers!
How often would someone come across microamps on the way through beginner-intermediate and a college degree in electrical engineering?
That Fluke 77-IV I bought doesn't have a microamp range and seeing as it's brand new, I'd rather resell it for about what I paid for it. However I really like it and would rather not go through the hassle, so if I don't have to worry about microamps for a while I'd rather keep it.
Poor research on my part, I thought I knew what to look for.
[QUOTE=Cittidel;42479147]How often would someone come across microamps on the way through beginner-intermediate and a college degree in electrical engineering?
That Fluke 77-IV I bought doesn't have a microamp range and seeing as it's brand new, I'd rather resell it for about what I paid for it. However I really like it and would rather not go through the hassle, so if I don't have to worry about microamps for a while I'd rather keep it.
Poor research on my part, I thought I knew what to look for.[/QUOTE]
I never had to measure microamps on a handheld multimeter in my degree. I discussed microamps, calculated them occasionally (often wrongly) but I can't think of a common reason you'd come across them, especially in a DC setting that a hand held meter could read reliably (noise currents are quite plausible though)
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