[QUOTE=pentium;42777057]You need to work on laptop battery fuses.
You can melt the fuse simply by applying too much heat.[/QUOTE]
An ESD-safe iron wont help with that though
[QUOTE=pentium;42777057]You need to work on laptop battery fuses.
You can melt the fuse simply by applying too much heat.[/QUOTE]
He's talking about ESD, not melting stuff.
[thumb]http://puu.sh/5ayin.jpg[/thumb]
240V to 120V transformer for vacuum tubes is finished.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;42777900][thumb]http://puu.sh/5ayin.jpg[/thumb]
240V to 120V transformer for vacuum tubes is finished.[/QUOTE]
I have one of those in my junk bin, 2:1 transformer for running US appliances on swedish mains.
I wouldn't have minded giving it to you.
[QUOTE=chipset;42778463]I have one of those in my junk bin, 2:1 transformer for running US appliances on swedish mains.
I wouldn't have minded giving it to you.[/QUOTE]
Yes but then he doesn't get to make it.
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;42778542]Yes but then he doesn't get to make it.[/QUOTE]
True, also remembered that the swedish postal system is abhorrently expensive. €25 for a small package under 2kg inside the EU.
Alright, so our floor needs a ballin' LED setup, so I decided to get to it. The total will be 105 LEDs at a total drive current of 2,1A, with roundabout 100 meters of wiring to hook it all up. I am breaking everything up into little modules, and I will use a lm317 constant current source to drive each module.
This will be fun to install!
[QUOTE=DrDevil;42779177]Alright, so our floor needs a ballin' LED setup, so I decided to get to it. The total will be 105 LEDs at a total drive current of 2,1A, with roundabout 100 meters of wiring to hook it all up. I am breaking everything up into little modules, and I will use a lm317 constant current source to drive each module.
This will be fun to install![/QUOTE]
But I thought the LM317 was limited to 1A
Oh wait, [I]total[/I] drive current, across all modules, nevermind.
[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;42779930]But I thought the LM317 was limited to 1A
Oh wait, [I]total[/I] drive current, across all modules, nevermind.[/QUOTE]
1.5A
They're quite inefficient, but also dirt cheap and easy to get.
Although I prefer the LM338 over the LM317
Can handle up-to 5 ampere.
Well, I'll use the lm317 because it's dirt cheap to buy and power consumption is of no concern.
Any suggestions for a solid soldering station in the UK? I could probably stretch my budget to a Hakko FX-888D if it's really worth it, but I'd like to hear some opinions.
[QUOTE=ben1066;42799781]Any suggestions for a solid soldering station in the UK? I could probably stretch my budget to a Hakko FX-888D if it's really worth it, but I'd like to hear some opinions.[/QUOTE]
I've got the chance to test the Hakko FX-888D, and it's a nice and compact soldering station, and it heats up fast enough. Definitely worth the money, although I think the one with the analog knob is even nicer than the digital one, as the digital one has a rather nasty button setup, and changing temperature is a hassle.
[QUOTE=ben1066;42799781]Any suggestions for a solid soldering station in the UK? I could probably stretch my budget to a Hakko FX-888D if it's really worth it, but I'd like to hear some opinions.[/QUOTE]
I would not buy the Hakko FX-888 since Hakko is just screwing over everyone in Europe by making the 230V version [b]twice[/b] the price of the bloody 110V version. And no, the one deal-extreme sells is a fake.
[QUOTE=ben1066;42799781]Any suggestions for a solid soldering station in the UK? I could probably stretch my budget to a Hakko FX-888D if it's really worth it, but I'd like to hear some opinions.[/QUOTE]
Toolcraft ST-80D £69.99
[url]http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/588999/TOOLCRAFT-ST80-D-Digital-Soldering-Station-230-Vac-80W-150-450-C?queryFromSuggest=true[/url]
Quite a good station that uses standard hakko / atten tips and iron, there a cheaper 50W version but I suggest at least 80W which helps when soldering large ground planes, version without a digital display is £62.99 which will probably do as it's not the most accurate as far as temperature is concerned, heatup time is about 10-20 seconds.
You could probably get a hakko clone a little bit cheaper but eh it looks like a toy.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;42799951]Toolcraft ST-80D £69.99
[url]http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/588999/TOOLCRAFT-ST80-D-Digital-Soldering-Station-230-Vac-80W-150-450-C?queryFromSuggest=true[/url]
Quite a good station that uses standard hakko / atten tips and iron, there a cheaper 50W version but I suggest at least 80W which helps when soldering large ground planes, version without a digital display is £62.99 which will probably do as it's not the most accurate as far as temperature is concerned, heatup time is about 10-20 seconds.
You could probably get a hakko clone a little bit cheaper but eh it looks like a toy.[/QUOTE]
I have the 50W analog version of this station and it's great but the extra 30W sure would come in handy. Funny how I actually paid the same for my 50W version on the dutch Conrad as the 80W digital version on the British Conrad.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;42799942]I would not buy the Hakko FX-888 since Hakko is just screwing over everyone in Europe by making the 230V version [b]twice[/b] the price of the bloody 110V version. And no, the one deal-extreme sells is a fake.[/QUOTE]
In the UK it's not a complete ripoff at £110, it would cost much the same to import the US one. I'm not too fussed about appearance. Is that Toolcraft one just a rebranded Atten or such or is it different? Seems that some people seem to think it is. Thanks for the advice though.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;42799886]I've got the chance to test the Hakko FX-888D, and it's a nice and compact soldering station, and it heats up fast enough. Definitely worth the money, although I think the one with the analog knob is even nicer than the digital one, as the digital one has a rather nasty button setup, and changing temperature is a hassle.[/QUOTE]
Out of interest, what do you use?
Yes, it is a rebranded Atten AT201D.
[QUOTE=ben1066;42800060]In the UK it's not a complete ripoff at £110, it would cost much the same to import the US one. I'm not too fussed about appearance. Is that Toolcraft one just a rebranded Atten or such or is it different? Seems that some people seem to think it is. Thanks for the advice though.[/QUOTE]
Yes it's pretty much a rebrand of one of the Atten models, I forget which.
[QUOTE=ben1066;42800060]Out of interest, what do you use?[/QUOTE]
A 15€ cheapo from amazon, which is really terrible. But for most of the soldering I do it's still kind of ok to use, and I have more pressing expenses than a soldering iron. But if I'm ever going to buy one, it's probably the Hakko.
Got a question about my PICAXE chip circuit.
I've got the counting working fine, but translating the current count over to the shift register is much harder. So I need to translate the current count into a series of 8 signals that get sent to the shift register - how can I do it?
I'm using flowchart programming in Yenka, so it's kinda limited in regards to logic. I've got access to Logicator though, if I need to use it.
[QUOTE=Inplabth;42801523]Yeah I know, but the people organizing this event don't seem to.[/QUOTE]
Maybe what they're on about is that Li-Ion batteries usually come in a metal can, which is less susceptible to mechanical damage than the typical soft Li-Po-Pack.
[QUOTE=ben1066;42799781]Any suggestions for a solid soldering station in the UK? I could probably stretch my budget to a Hakko FX-888D if it's really worth it, but I'd like to hear some opinions.[/QUOTE]
I got the Ersa i-CON Pico for a £100 today, and i fell in love with it. The station looks very well built and is sturdy, the iron is quite small and incredibly light and it heats up in 10 seconds ( no exaggeration ). I'd go ( and went ) with the Pico rather than the FX-888.
[QUOTE=alexaz;42802464]I got the Ersa i-CON Pico for a £100 today, and i fell in love with it. The station looks very well built and is sturdy, the iron is quite small and incredibly light and it heats up in 10 seconds ( no exaggeration ). I'd go ( and went ) with the Pico rather than the FX-888.[/QUOTE]
Where did you get it from?
[QUOTE=ben1066;42802537]Where did you get it from?[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.lokmita.lt/en/soldering/stations/non-antistatic-soldering/i-con-pico-electronically-temperature-controlled-soldering-station-with-i-tool-pico-soldering-iron.html?cur=1&listtype=search&searchparam=0ic1[/url]
Not sure if they ship outside Lithuania, but worth a shot. Farnell is an option, too.
[QUOTE=alexaz;42802575][url]http://www.lokmita.lt/en/soldering/stations/non-antistatic-soldering/i-con-pico-electronically-temperature-controlled-soldering-station-with-i-tool-pico-soldering-iron.html?cur=1&listtype=search&searchparam=0ic1[/url]
Not sure if they ship outside Lithuania, but worth a shot. Farnell is an option, too.[/QUOTE]
Conrad is a bit cheaper than Farnell, but it was the fact you said £100 that interested me more. The I-Con Pico is only a little more expensive than the FX888 there, and I can get tips far easier so it may be a better option. As far as I can tell the only difference between the Pico and Nano is ESD safety?
Using an empty audio plug,
[t]https://www.iprototype.nl/images/products/1029_original.png[/t]
I managed to make some kind of... visualizer I suppose? it makes an led light up more bright as the volume increases of anything going on on my computer.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-11-08 23.34.35.jpg[/t]
the potentiometer will be used to adjust the maximum value (as that affects how bright the LED will be etc.). I tried to do it automatically first, but the code didn't work really well and it went all over the place :v: I'll revisit it later.
there isn't much to see component wise, as it's just a few wires and an LED.
I have to find a solution to having only spotify to the plug and spotify + everything else to my headset (luckily google exists, so that won't be a big issue)
Ordered myself a cheap as shit (11 USD) logic analyzer that's supposedly a clone of Salae's product.
Let's see how this turns out. :v:
[QUOTE=Nightrazr;42803385]Ordered myself a cheap as shit (11 USD) logic analyzer that's supposedly a clone of Salae's product.
Let's see how this turns out. :v:[/QUOTE]
It'll probably work fine as Salae's logic analyzer is just a microcontroller with a bunch of inputs attached to an USB port.
[editline]9th November 2013[/editline]
Also, I bought a Duratool D00672 vacuum desoldering station. I'm surprised how well it works, certainly a hell of a lot better than dicking around with those manual pumps.
It's essentially the same station that that EEVBlog guy bought but better built with a metal case and better holder for the iron.
[url]http://imgur.com/a/lSUJi[/url]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/pDAoCG7.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/pDAoCG7l.jpg[/img][/url]
Ignore the error, I hadn't plugged the handpiece in in this picture.
[url=http://i.imgur.com/oib3Z1K.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/oib3Z1Kl.jpg[/img][/url]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/E5K8NTH.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/E5K8NTHl.jpg[/img][/url]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/MFncY2y.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/MFncY2yl.jpg[/img][/url]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/WVfSUhe.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/WVfSUhel.jpg[/img][/url]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/An7gk65.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/An7gk65l.jpg[/img][/url]
Nothing special in that black box next to the fan, just two ceramic power resistors on a pcb.
[url=http://i.imgur.com/BhsdapO.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/BhsdapOl.jpg[/img][/url]
The front panel with a 8051 microcontroller (which someone has actually rewritten the software for which is quite cool)
[url=http://i.imgur.com/jHSYYhn.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/jHSYYhnl.jpg[/img][/url]
Crappy picture inside of the power supply for the thing
[url=http://i.imgur.com/AmAQFiE.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/AmAQFiEl.jpg[/img][/url]
I would have taken the vacuum pump apart but unfortunately it uses some kind of double sided sticky gasket which will probably be ruined if I take it apart, ah well.
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