Progress.
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64514745/progress.png[/img]
1,200 lines of verilog (excluding VGA adapter), probably another 1,000 to go.
[QUOTE=Angus725;42922255]Progress.
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64514745/progress.png[/img]
1,200 lines of verilog (excluding VGA adapter), probably another 1,000 to go.[/QUOTE]
Doesn't matter how many lines of code, it's all about the slice count.
-snip-
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;42918767]
Also, anyone in the UK want a whole load of buzzers, il give a entire bag of them for £15 + P&P (around 150 pcs of them)
Info:
PC mount White 23mm dia. 7mm high pin 4mm[/QUOTE]
I'll buy 25 of them (£2.50, right?) if you don't mind splitting the bag up.
i dont mind at all, let me just go get the postage cost etc, pm me your email and il send you a paypal invoice
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;42927613]i dont mind at all, let me just go get the postage cost etc, pm me your email and il send you a paypal invoice[/QUOTE]
Can't do PayPal i'm afraid, best I can do is Bank transfer (Faster Payments).
Any books or projects you guys can recommend for a beginner? I want a series of projects I can do one after the other, slowly progressing in ability so I can learn :)
So I have to set up a quadcopter arduino system to communicate back and forth. I am going to have one "slave" arduino be an autopilot controller, managing the actual flying of the quad and taking commands from the master- an arduino collecting data from several ultrasonic rangefinders and sending it back to a raspberry pi base station.
Is i2c the best way to do this, or are there better methods? Primary reason for isolating the two is to keep interference out of the ultrasonic sensors.
[QUOTE=Yuskolov123;42929030]Any books or projects you guys can recommend for a beginner? I want a series of projects I can do one after the other, slowly progressing in ability so I can learn :)[/QUOTE]
I'd also be interested in this.
[QUOTE=Leestons;42933909]I'd also be interested in this.[/QUOTE]
Art of electronics is a useful one to have (best one i have)
[QUOTE=Yuskolov123;42929030]Any books or projects you guys can recommend for a beginner? I want a series of projects I can do one after the other, slowly progressing in ability so I can learn :)[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/[/url]
[url=http://theeshadow.com/files/Forrest%20M.%20Mims%20III%20-%20Getting%20started%20in%20electronics.pdf]Forrest Mims - Getting started in electronics[/url]
As for projects start with simple stuff like resistive voltage dividers, transistor switches, digital counters and 555 timer circuits then move on to more complicated things like operational amplifiers, transistor amplifiers, microcontrollers, etc, at which point you'd probably want to get your first oscilloscope otherwise things can get very hard to debug or experiment with.
Been waiting for 2 weeks for 2 carbide bits from ebay. Managed to break one in less than 30 seconds. fml.
[QUOTE=alexaz;42935801]Been waiting for 2 weeks for 2 carbide bits from ebay. Managed to break one in less than 30 seconds. fml.[/QUOTE]
Always buy the best most expensive bits.
Cheap ones are total shit.
But 10 dollars for a single drill bit that breaks easier than an uncooked spaghetti :(
[QUOTE=alexaz;42936860]But 10 dollars for a single drill bit that breaks easier than an uncooked spaghetti :([/QUOTE]
Try not apply too much force, if your trying to drill a PCB make sure you're using a drill press with a good high speed drill, I have some cheap 1mm HSS drill bits that I've used on several holes without breakage.
Even the cheapest should be good for a dozen holes or so.
let the tool do the work, if you're forcing it, ofcourse its going to break.
Alright I've got my first project idea!
I want to build a small circuit that involves an IR laser diode, a small (3-4) array of IR LEDs and some doohickeys to make it function.
The idea is to make a small, handheld device that I can use to send pulses of IR light from the LEDs, much like a TV remote.
I'd also like to use an IR laser diode and a lens to kill its focus to a certain degree.
Now this sounds shadey as all hell, I am well aware. But the point of this device is to test some equipment at work that picks up IR signals, currently we fiddle with TV remotes but the signals are quite weak and it's just a pain in the dick to do.
What could I use to make the LEDs flicker/flash? A 555?
Where should I look for schematic ideas/info on how to set something like this up?
[QUOTE=Nightrazr;42939306]Alright I've got my first project idea!
I want to build a small circuit that involves an IR laser diode, a small (3-4) array of IR LEDs and some doohickeys to make it function.
The idea is to make a small, handheld device that I can use to send pulses of IR light from the LEDs, much like a TV remote.
I'd also like to use an IR laser diode and a lens to kill its focus to a certain degree.
Now this sounds shadey as all hell, I am well aware. But the point of this device is to test some equipment at work that picks up IR signals, currently we fiddle with TV remotes but the signals are quite weak and it's just a pain in the dick to do.
What could I use to make the LEDs flicker/flash? A 555?
Where should I look for schematic ideas/info on how to set something like this up?[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.sbprojects.com/knowledge/ir/index.php[/url]
In other words you can't just hook it up to an oscillator and expect the TV your testing to do something with it, if you want to jam IR signals this would work.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;42939559][url]http://www.sbprojects.com/knowledge/ir/index.php[/url]
In other words you can't just hook it up to an oscillator and expect the TV your testing to do something with it, if you want to jam IR signals this would work.[/QUOTE]
I don't want to send actual signals, I just want the LEDs to blink so that I can be sure LEDs are picked up by the equipment, I might also add a switch so I can change between flashing and constant shining.
[QUOTE=Nightrazr;42939306]Alright I've got my first project idea!
I want to build a small circuit that involves an IR laser diode, a small (3-4) array of IR LEDs and some doohickeys to make it function.
The idea is to make a small, handheld device that I can use to send pulses of IR light from the LEDs, much like a TV remote.
I'd also like to use an IR laser diode and a lens to kill its focus to a certain degree.
Now this sounds shadey as all hell, I am well aware. But the point of this device is to test some equipment at work that picks up IR signals, currently we fiddle with TV remotes but the signals are quite weak and it's just a pain in the dick to do.
What could I use to make the LEDs flicker/flash? A 555?
Where should I look for schematic ideas/info on how to set something like this up?[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=r0b0tsquid;42002316]I made a remote:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/neE5EIn.jpg[/t]
You hold down the nearest button (the learn button) and then press one of the other buttons, and it starts blinking at you so you know it's waiting. You press a button on your TV remote (or any remote!) and it learns the IR code and assigns it to that button.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/vEPP1Sx.jpg[/t]
The soldering is... eh. It was okay until I squeezed that ICSP header in :v: there are only 8 holes on the board that aren't covered now.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/jb5QCOk.jpg[/t]
Apparently the camera's filters pass infrared light, interesting!
At the moment it's controlling the TV (on/off, change channel, volume) and the volume on the amplifier, but it's super quick to reprogram. Means I can use one tiny remote instead of two big ones.
It works with Lego power functions motors too, so it can control a Lego RC car if you teach it the remote codes! Battery life should be 3 or 4 days (950mAh / 10mA) but I should be able to get that to a week or two.
Spent a day learning how IR works and programming, and a day building the board and getting it all working nicely.
Was fun! :)[/QUOTE]
AVR + LED + resistor (+ transistor but not necessary, depending on how much power you want).
[QUOTE=Nightrazr;42939576]I don't want to send actual signals, I just want the LEDs to blink so that I can be sure LEDs are picked up by the equipment, I might also add a switch so I can change between flashing and constant shining.[/QUOTE]
Or you can use a 555, with a potentiometer so you can trim the frequency by varying the resistance.
[img]http://www.electronicecircuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/555-Variable-Frequency-Square-Wave-Generator-oscillator-circuit.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=r0b0tsquid;42939611]AVR + LED + resistor (+ transistor but not necessary, depending on how much power you want).
Or you can use a 555, with a potentiometer so you can trim the frequency by varying the resistance.
[IMG]http://www.electronicecircuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/555-Variable-Frequency-Square-Wave-Generator-oscillator-circuit.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
I know I'm probably pushing my luck here. But could you tell me which parts of that drawn circuit represent their respective components and what values they carry?
And if you're really feeling generous; Could you explain to me how this exactly functions the way it does?
[QUOTE=Nightrazr;42948548]I know I'm probably pushing my luck here. But could you tell me which parts of that drawn circuit represent their respective components and what values they carry?
And if you're really feeling generous; Could you explain to me how this exactly functions the way it does?[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.electronics.dit.ie/staff/mtully/555%20folder/555%20timer.htm[/url]
Hi, in construction class at school I'm building a waterwheel to power a small engine using a simple DC generator. However, I'm not sure if the voltage the generator outputs is enough to properly power the engine so I thought about putting another identical generator on the other end of the axis and then somehow combine the two generators output into one single.
As you can probably tell, I don't know much about electricity, but I'm here to ask if this is even possible? I've read some about OPAMP which seems to do what I want, but I'm not sure how I would connect it up.
Could I get some further information on this? Thanks!
[QUOTE=Donkie;42956141]Hi, in construction class at school I'm building a waterwheel to power a small engine using a simple DC generator. However, I'm not sure if the voltage the generator outputs is enough to properly power the engine so I thought about putting another identical generator on the other end of the axis and then somehow combine the two generators output into one single.
As you can probably tell, I don't know much about electricity, but I'm here to ask if this is even possible? I've read some about OPAMP which seems to do what I want, but I'm not sure how I would connect it up.
Could I get some further information on this? Thanks![/QUOTE]
You shouldn't need an OPAMP if you're just looking to combine those 2 generator's.
You can just connect them in parallel if you're using 2 [U]identical generator's[/U]​ with both rotor's going at the [U]same speed[/U] (you said that you we're going to put the second one at the other end of the axis so that shouldn't be an issue).
Will that double the amps or the voltage? What happens if one generator goes -slightly- faster than the other?
[QUOTE=Donkie;42957134]Will that double the amps or the voltage? What happens if one generator goes -slightly- faster than the other?[/QUOTE]
Generators in parallel = I1 + I2 (double the amps if matched / same voltage)
Generators in series = V1 + V2 (double the voltage if matched / half the amps)
Assuming the phasing is matched otherwise you'll get little or nothing out in series or only half power in parallel.
To clarify for a series wired generator the maximum current is half that of a single generator.
[url=http://www.falstad.com/circuit/#%24+1+5.0E-6+16.817414165184545+50+5.0+50%0Av+64+208+64+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+144+208+144+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+240+208+240+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+240+128+240+208+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+400+128+400+208+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+3.141592653589793+0.5%0Av+400+208+400+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Ag+64+288+64+304+0%0Ag+144+288+144+304+0%0Aw+64+176+64+208+2%0Aw+144+176+144+208+1%0Ar+240+96+304+96+0+100.0%0Aw+304+96+304+288+0%0Ag+240+288+240+304+0%0Ag+304+288+304+304+0%0Aw+240+96+240+128+2%0Ar+400+96+464+96+0+100.0%0Ag+400+288+400+304+0%0Aw+400+128+400+96+2%0Aw+464+96+464+288+0%0Ag+464+288+464+304+0%0Av+528+208+528+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+608+208+608+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+3.141592653589793+0.5%0Ag+528+288+528+304+0%0Ag+608+288+608+304+0%0Aw+528+208+528+176+2%0Aw+608+208+608+176+0%0Aw+144+176+64+176+0%0Ar+64+176+64+96+0+100.0%0Ag+64+96+64+80+0%0Aw+528+176+608+176+0%0Ar+528+176+528+96+0+100.0%0Ag+528+96+528+80+0%0Ax+237+354+304+360+0+24+Series%0Ax+63+358+144+364+0+24+Parallel%0Ax+402+356+469+362+0+24+Series%0Ax+533+355+614+361+0+24+Parallel%0Ax+373+384+499+388+0+18+Phase+reversed%0Ax+515+385+641+389+0+18+Phase+reversed%0Ao+27+64+0+35+1280.0+6.4+0+-1%0Ao+10+64+0+35+5120.0+12.8+1+-1%0Ao+15+64+0+35+7.62939453125E-5+9.765625E-5+2+-1%0Ao+30+64+0+35+1280.0+6.4+3+-1%0A]Example.[/url]
[QUOTE=Chryseus;42957354]Generators in parallel = I1 + I2 (double the amps if matched / same voltage)
Generators in series = V1 + V2 (double the voltage if matched / half the amps)
Assuming the phasing is matched otherwise you'll get little or nothing out in series or only half power in parallel.
To clarify for a series wired generator the maximum current is half that of a single generator.
[url=http://www.falstad.com/circuit/#%24+1+5.0E-6+16.817414165184545+50+5.0+50%0Av+64+208+64+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+144+208+144+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+240+208+240+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+240+128+240+208+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+400+128+400+208+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+3.141592653589793+0.5%0Av+400+208+400+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Ag+64+288+64+304+0%0Ag+144+288+144+304+0%0Aw+64+176+64+208+2%0Aw+144+176+144+208+1%0Ar+240+96+304+96+0+100.0%0Aw+304+96+304+288+0%0Ag+240+288+240+304+0%0Ag+304+288+304+304+0%0Aw+240+96+240+128+2%0Ar+400+96+464+96+0+100.0%0Ag+400+288+400+304+0%0Aw+400+128+400+96+2%0Aw+464+96+464+288+0%0Ag+464+288+464+304+0%0Av+528+208+528+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+608+208+608+288+0+1+40.0+339.0+0.0+3.141592653589793+0.5%0Ag+528+288+528+304+0%0Ag+608+288+608+304+0%0Aw+528+208+528+176+2%0Aw+608+208+608+176+0%0Aw+144+176+64+176+0%0Ar+64+176+64+96+0+100.0%0Ag+64+96+64+80+0%0Aw+528+176+608+176+0%0Ar+528+176+528+96+0+100.0%0Ag+528+96+528+80+0%0Ax+237+354+304+360+0+24+Series%0Ax+63+358+144+364+0+24+Parallel%0Ax+402+356+469+362+0+24+Series%0Ax+533+355+614+361+0+24+Parallel%0Ax+373+384+499+388+0+18+Phase+reversed%0Ax+515+385+641+389+0+18+Phase+reversed%0Ao+27+64+0+35+1280.0+6.4+0+-1%0Ao+10+64+0+35+5120.0+12.8+1+-1%0Ao+15+64+0+35+7.62939453125E-5+9.765625E-5+2+-1%0Ao+30+64+0+35+1280.0+6.4+3+-1%0A]Example.[/url][/QUOTE]
Sorry if this is a silly question but why would it be half the amps rather than the same?
I'm in a bit of a pickle at the moment, I'm attempting to setup a passive Solar NiMH trickle charger with an arduino uno. Honestly the arduino's regulator is shite in the fact that it's average quiescent current is 10mA. The solar cells I'm using are ganged in series to bring up the voltage to a proper charging voltage (~8.2V), however they only source ~13mA at their MPPT (I've got roughly 10mA going to the battery from the Const Current Circuit).
Is there anyway to direct the current solely to the battery when charging, and only devote a small amount to the uno when charging? The charger has a MOSFET controlled shut off by the Arduino which goes into sleep mode after disabling the shutoff.
[IMG]http://oi41.tinypic.com/k01y4k.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Leestons;42976961]Sorry if this is a silly question but why would it be half the amps rather than the same?[/QUOTE]
Each generator has a certain amount of resistance in the windings, this is the main source of heat generation in a generator and thus there is a maximum load the generator can tolerate without excessive heating of the windings, this internal resistance is easily modeled as a series resistor.
When generators are in parallel the effective total resistance is the reciprocal sum of each individual winding resistance, as a result the generator can provide a greater amount of current for the same amount of heating, this is why two in parallel gives you double the current capacity since the winding resistance is now R / 2.
With a series wired generator the winding resistances are in series and so the total is the sum of each generators winding resistance, as a result of this two generators in series have [del]double the power dissipation[/del] [b]four times the power dissipation[/b] in their windings so the maximum current capacity is half since the voltage has now doubled.
That makes sense, thank you!
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