re:awesome pentium
That you could even do that at all blows me away.
I tried my hand at adjusting the multiplier jumpers back then (on a K6-2 133) and was rewarded with magic smoke. This loss discouraged me from ever trying to overclock again.
But you actually made the jumpers.
That's just the most magical thing I have ever seen. Very cool.
While we were at it, I [url=http://john.ccac.rwth-aachen.de:8000/misc/ps2cache/]modified conventional 1mb 30 pin SIMMs to work in IBM's SCSI adapter.[/url]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/IMG_4171.jpg[/IMG]
Edited: by the way, this is how I do stuff like that.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vl4KwBi5k4E[/media]
Not really sure where to put this:
Are OTG USB cables compatible with the normal USB protocol? I want to use [url=http://dx.com/p/usb-female-to-90-degree-micro-usb-male-otg-cable-for-sasmung-i9500-n7100-i9300-black-232643]this[/url] for my raspberry pi to power it from an atrix dock, do you guys know if this will work?
[editline]18th December 2013[/editline]
Actually this wont work but I am still curious if OTG cables are backwards compatible.
[QUOTE=toaster468;43231612]Not really sure where to put this:
Are OTG USB cables compatible with the normal USB protocol? I want to use [URL="http://dx.com/p/usb-female-to-90-degree-micro-usb-male-otg-cable-for-sasmung-i9500-n7100-i9300-black-232643"]this[/URL] for my raspberry pi to power it from an atrix dock, do you guys know if this will work?
[editline]18th December 2013[/editline]
Actually this wont work but I am still curious if OTG cables are backwards compatible.[/QUOTE]
That should work fine for providing power, assuming you have a male USB supplying power. The OTG cable just connects pin 5 (ID) to 4 (GND) in the micro USB connector, so the A side doesn't see anything different. (Since there are only 4 pins in a USB A)
That explains why my Internet wasn't working sometimes
[t]http://i.imgur.com/2bZq8sM.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=DrDevil;43240890]That explains why my Internet wasn't working sometimes
[t]http://i.imgur.com/2bZq8sM.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Some of the ones and zeroes must be leaking out!
[QUOTE=ddrl46;43250329][media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5Gp3dCYFQI[/media]
Woop.[/QUOTE]
Is that for your meth lab ?
Simple setup, gets the job done. I like it!
[QUOTE=ddrl46;43250329]Tumbler thingie[/QUOTE]
What am I looking at.
[QUOTE=quincy18;43250380]What am I looking at.[/QUOTE]
I don't know either.
so my chinese knockoff communication modules arrived from DX fairly well. One pin was a bit bended but that was easy to fix.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-12-20 18.13.06.jpg[/t]
The real issue is that they're still attached to eachother and I don't want to risk ruining them by snapping them apart, so my question is how to do it safely :v:
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);43251245]so my chinese knockoff communication modules arrived from DX fairly well. One pin was a bit bended but that was easy to fix.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-12-20 18.13.06.jpg[/t]
The real issue is that they're still attached to eachother and I don't want to risk ruining them by snapping them apart, so my question is how to do it safely :v:[/QUOTE]
[t]http://inserbia.info/news/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/sledgehammer.jpg[/t]
Or you should just be able to snap it, is it v-scored? You may want to run a craft knife down the score a few times first. The copper's normally pulled back from the edge of the panel by 20 mil or so.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;43250329][media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5Gp3dCYFQI[/media]
Woop.[/QUOTE]
WHY????
What is this for?
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);43251245]so my chinese knockoff communication modules arrived from DX fairly well. One pin was a bit bended but that was easy to fix.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-12-20 18.13.06.jpg[/t]
The real issue is that they're still attached to eachother and I don't want to risk ruining them by snapping them apart, so my question is how to do it safely :v:[/QUOTE]
That looks like a v-score. Gently wiggle them apart by applying pressure along the entire edge, and then they should snap off perfectly fine.
It has a V-score indeed. It's kinda hard to find a good hold on it though as I'm really carefull :v:
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);43254134]It has a V-score indeed. It's kinda hard to find a good hold on it though as I'm really carefull :v:[/QUOTE]
PCBs are incredibly strong, you could probably build a skyscraper out of that stuff. Just wiggle it and make sure you don't apply the pressure to the outer edges, although that probably would still be ok.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;43253297]WHY????
What is this for?[/QUOTE]
My guess it's for agitating a pcb dumped in chemical solution.
For etching and such.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);43254134]It has a V-score indeed. It's kinda hard to find a good hold on it though as I'm really carefull :v:[/QUOTE]
Carefully cut in the V-score with a sharp hoppyknife blade.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;43250329][media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5Gp3dCYFQI[/media]
Woop.[/QUOTE]
I find this strangely entertaining. Somebody make a 10 hour loop!
well, this shit is extremely easy to use
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2013-12-21 10.35.48.jpg[/t]
All I had to do was install drivers, check where to connect what, setup both of the modules to have the same settings and there you go. I had the perfect code to test this from when I was messing with my LCD screen (the arduino both recieves a string send by the arduino serial console and then sends it back every second)
[editline]21st December 2013[/editline]
I might go and ask my teacher how to make my own serial system and see if I can make a WASD controlled robot or something.
Just spent hours working on a Samsung Galaxy S3 which had some bad water damage.
The screen wouldn't work at all anymore (it did power on) and it made some weird static noises from the speaker.
This is how a part the board looked after a lot of work (didn't take any pictures before i started)
[img_thumb]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64443729/DSCI0021.JPG[/img_thumb]
It looked a lot worse when i opened it.
And this is the same part of the board finished:
[img_thumb]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64443729/DSCI0025.JPG[/img_thumb]
This was a last recovery attempt as the board had been drying for a few days now.
[URL="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64443729/Video 6.wmv"]It's actually working fine again now[/URL]. Gives such a good feeling.
(i'm holding it strange because i was holding the battery in place)
How did you repair it?
I mainly used rubbing alcohol (works wonders and it dry's pretty quick).
I used a magnifier and tried to carefully clean every contact separately and make sure there we're no shortcut's between any connections. I constantly cleaned the connections and then let the board dry as it's harder to see the corrosion when you apply the alcohol.
It took me about 7 hours to clean the whole thing as i didn't wan't to risk damaging any component's (this includes the board drying and some breaks).
I only powered it on after i was 200% sure i had gone over everything at least twice.
It's pretty amazing that it still worked as the owner had tried to turn it on a couple of times, but no component's seemed to be damaged and it's working fine right now.
[QUOTE=0lenny0;43265797]I mainly used rubbing alcohol (works wonders and it dry's pretty quick).
I used a magnifier and tried to carefully clean every contact separately and make sure there we're no shortcut's between any connections. I constantly cleaned the connections and then let the board dry as it's harder to see the corrosion when you apply the alcohol.
It took me about 7 hours to clean the whole thing as i didn't wan't to risk damaging any component's (this includes the board drying and some breaks).
I only powered it on after i was 200% sure i had gone over everything at least twice.
It's pretty amazing that it still worked as the owner had tried to turn it on a couple of times, but no component's seemed to be damaged and it's working fine right now.[/QUOTE]
And to think of I fixed a old Sony Ericsson Walkman phone by just dumping it in a bottle of rubbing alcohol after I had removed the battery and memory card.
Shaked that shit real good then pulled it out of it and left it to dry for a couple of days.
Worked fine after that.
So I've considered taking several Peltier Plates, attaching them to my forehead and generating electricity from the current flu I have. Looks like I could average 7mV per plate :v:
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;43269446]So I've considered taking several Peltier Plates, attaching them to my forehead and generating electricity from the current flu I have. Looks like I could average 7mV per plate :v:[/QUOTE]
Attach little liquid nitrogen containers to the other side, and you'll have a really nice powerplant on your forehead!
[QUOTE=O Cheerios O;43267567]And to think of I fixed a old Sony Ericsson Walkman phone by just dumping it in a bottle of rubbing alcohol after I had removed the battery and memory card.
Shaked that shit real good then pulled it out of it and left it to dry for a couple of days.
Worked fine after that.[/QUOTE]
At first i sprayed the board with it and just let it dry (a couple of times), but the board still looked pretty bad and there still was a lot of corrosion on the connections.
I didn't want risk having any shortcuts when powering it on, or having any odd behavior after a few days of usage.
It's done. It took eleven hours to do the last push but the programmer is finished.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0556.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0557.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0558.jpg[/IMG]
( I couldn't find fucking toggle switches that were not 3-way so a small relay had to be added to convert an on/off/on switch to on/on/on)
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0559.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0560.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0561.jpg[/IMG]
...and there's a problem. :suicide:
For some reason if switch 1 and 3 are on the regulator overloads until the thermal cutout engages. It's not a short either. I've checked and there's no crossed wires. I'm hoping this is one of the weird "features" of the programmer when it has nothing connected to the parallel port. Speaking of which, I've yet to try programmign anything. I'll dig up a BIN file tomorrow and give it a shot. It better fucking work.
Thats quite possibly the most clusterfucked thing I have ever seen
This doesnt look very safe though
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/4838268/ShareX/2013-12/2013-12-24_10-38-49.png[/img]
It's on a piece of nonpadded perfboard. Either I glued it to that or glued the relay directly to the case.
Also, I think my issue is that I was in PCB3 mode which has a reversed bank of dip switches, mind you if I toggle into 3B mode the problem persists. :/
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