Electrical Engineering V2

[TCWilliamson]

[QUOTE=false prophet;43404500]Where is the best place to get an Arduino? I want to make an automated switch for a green house.
And should fakes be avoided?[/QUOTE]

Why not get a few of these:
[url]http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/iteaduino-lite-most-inexpensive-full-sized-arduino-derivative-board[/url]

EDIT:

Or these:
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Pro-Mini-Atmega328-5V-16M-Replace-ATmega128-For-Arduino-Compatible-Nano-EA-/350892355143?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item51b2d06e47[/url]
(i got a few, work well)

[alexaz]

[QUOTE=false prophet;43404500]Where is the best place to get an Arduino? I want to make an automated switch for a green house.
And should fakes be avoided?[/QUOTE]

NONONO FUCK ARDUINO

You can get an MSP430 Launchpad for only $13 ( its a shame though that its not $4.30 anymore ). It is more capable than the 8-bit atmegas and cheaper too. With it you get 2 chips ( think two arduino's ) which you can then install on a protoboard/pcb, also the launchpad can function as an ISP programmer/debugger. The MSP430 has a very nice development environment called Energia which lets you write code in the same fashion as you would for the Arduino.

If you would like a bigger programming challenge, you can get the LPC1114 32-bit ARM Cortex M0 chip in a DIP package which has a serial boot loader, so you can program it with a cheap-ass ($2 - $3) USB to serial converter. Writing something as simple as a switch ( unless its a not so simple switch ) shouldn't be too hard.

The 8 bit atmegas should be forgotten as the world has moved on to [del] 16 bit [/del] 32 bit MCU's that are way more powerful, and way cheaper.

[TCWilliamson]

[QUOTE=alexaz;43406392]NONONO FUCK ARDUINO

You can get an MSP430 Launchpad for only $13 ( its a shame though that its not $4.30 anymore ). It is more capable than the 8-bit atmegas and cheaper too. With it you get 2 chips ( think two arduino's ) which you can then install on a protoboard/pcb, also the launchpad can function as an ISP programmer/debugger. The MSP430 has a very nice development environment called Energia which lets you write code in the same fashion as you would for the Arduino.

If you would like a bigger programming challenge, you can get the LPC1114 32-bit ARM Cortex M0 chip in a DIP package which has a serial boot loader, so you can program it with a cheap-ass ($2 - $3) USB to serial converter. Writing something as simple as a switch ( unless its a not so simple switch ) shouldn't be too hard.

The 8 bit atmegas should be forgotten as the world has moved on to [del] 16 bit [/del] 32 bit MCU's that are way more powerful, and way cheaper.[/QUOTE]

That has interested me... Tell me... what language are these in?, expecially the LPC1114 32-bit ARM Cortex M0

[Chryseus]

There is no reason to use more than 8 bits unless you need to address a lot of memory.

[alexaz]

[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;43406430]That has interested me... Tell me... what language are these in?, expecially the LPC1114 32-bit ARM Cortex M0[/QUOTE]

Its usually C, like most of the other MCU's.

[QUOTE=Chryseus;43406459]There is no reason to use more than 8 bits unless you need to address a lot of memory.[/QUOTE]

Yes, but usually, the higher bit MCU's are newer, faster, have better, higher resolution peripherals and are cheaper. PLUS, there's the advantage of knowing the platform and not having to learn and move on once you actually need all the power they can deliver.

[LoneWolf_Recon]

[QUOTE=alexaz;43406514][...]
Yes, but usually, the higher bit MCU's are newer, faster, have better, higher resolution peripherals and are cheaper. PLUS, there's the advantage of knowing the platform and not having to learn and move on once you actually need all the power they can deliver.[/QUOTE]

As true as this is in regards that there is a significant gap (whether it be learning or resources) from a small microcontroller scaled up to a larger system like the BeagleBone, its good to start small and be able to scale up if need be, its generally easier to scale up than scale down with embedded systems.

[joshjet]

[QUOTE=alexaz;43406392]NONONO FUCK ARDUINO

You can get an MSP430 Launchpad for only $13 ( its a shame though that its not $4.30 anymore ). It is more capable than the 8-bit atmegas and cheaper too. With it you get 2 chips ( think two arduino's ) which you can then install on a protoboard/pcb, also the launchpad can function as an ISP programmer/debugger. The MSP430 has a very nice development environment called Energia which lets you write code in the same fashion as you would for the Arduino.

If you would like a bigger programming challenge, you can get the LPC1114 32-bit ARM Cortex M0 chip in a DIP package which has a serial boot loader, so you can program it with a cheap-ass ($2 - $3) USB to serial converter. Writing something as simple as a switch ( unless its a not so simple switch ) shouldn't be too hard.

The 8 bit atmegas should be forgotten as the world has moved on to [del] 16 bit [/del] 32 bit MCU's that are way more powerful, and way cheaper.[/QUOTE]

I have a LaunchPad (LM4F120), and I can't get the fucking thing to work.

[editline]4th January 2014[/editline]

It may have something to do with the fact I have no idea what I'm doing though.

[DrLuke]

[QUOTE=Chryseus;43406459]There is no reason to use more than 8 bits unless you need to address a lot of memory.[/QUOTE]

Or if you have to crunch numbers.

[BMCha]

[QUOTE=joshjet;43409200]I have a LaunchPad (LM4F120), and I can't get the fucking thing to work.

[editline]4th January 2014[/editline]

It may have something to do with the fact I have no idea what I'm doing though.[/QUOTE]

What is the problem exactly?

[O Cheerios O]

[QUOTE=alexaz;43406392]NONONO FUCK ARDUINO

You can get an MSP430 Launchpad for only $13 ( its a shame though that its not $4.30 anymore ). It is more capable than the 8-bit atmegas and cheaper too. With it you get 2 chips ( think two arduino's ) which you can then install on a protoboard/pcb, also the launchpad can function as an ISP programmer/debugger. The MSP430 has a very nice development environment called Energia which lets you write code in the same fashion as you would for the Arduino.

If you would like a bigger programming challenge, you can get the LPC1114 32-bit ARM Cortex M0 chip in a DIP package which has a serial boot loader, so you can program it with a cheap-ass ($2 - $3) USB to serial converter. Writing something as simple as a switch ( unless its a not so simple switch ) shouldn't be too hard.

The 8 bit atmegas should be forgotten as the world has moved on to [del] 16 bit [/del] 32 bit MCU's that are way more powerful, and way cheaper.[/QUOTE]

You're acting like a Stallman minion.

[DrLuke]

[QUOTE=alexaz;43406392]The 8 bit atmegas should be forgotten as the world has moved on to [del] 16 bit [/del] 32 bit MCU's that are way more powerful, and way cheaper.[/QUOTE]

No, screw you. Atmegas are amazing.

[O Cheerios O]

[QUOTE=DrDevil;43410208]No, screw you. Atmegas are amazing.[/QUOTE]

My only beef is the pricetag.
Barring that, they deliver constant smackdowns to PIC's

[DrLuke]

[QUOTE=O Cheerios O;43410252]My only beef is the pricetag.
Barring that, they deliver constant smackdowns to PIC's[/QUOTE]

Maybe if you buy them in single quantities. Everything is expensive in low quantities.

By the way, XMegas are even more awesome. They have a huge shitload of peripherals to play with, and I haven't seen such a versatile 8-bit microcontroller yet.

[O Cheerios O]

[QUOTE=DrDevil;43410655]Maybe if you buy them in single quantities. Everything is expensive in low quantities.[/QUOTE]

What the fuck is a broke hobbyist supposed to-do with 100+ atmega's? :v:

[Metallics]

[QUOTE=O Cheerios O;43411514]What the fuck is a broke hobbyist supposed to-do with 100+ atmega's? :v:[/QUOTE]

100+ awesome projects. Alternatively:
Sell them on

[alexaz]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/hGavde5.jpg[/img]

Anyone ever attempted repairing FPC cables?

EDIT: All I can find on google is the god damn iPhone FPC connector replacement.

[Ddrl46]

[QUOTE=alexaz;43413645][img]http://i.imgur.com/hGavde5.jpg[/img]

Anyone ever attempted repairing FPC cables?

EDIT: All I can find on google is the god damn iPhone FPC connector replacement.[/QUOTE]
I've done it before by scraping off the solder mask using an knife and using small wire to bridge the broken trace, but it tends to break again if the repaired bit is flexed too much.
Searching for "flat flex cable repair" gives me quite a useful thread on a forum [url]http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=1102.0[/url].

[r0b0tsquid]

[QUOTE=alexaz;43413645][img]http://i.imgur.com/hGavde5.jpg[/img]

Anyone ever attempted repairing FPC cables?

EDIT: All I can find on google is the god damn iPhone FPC connector replacement.[/QUOTE]

IMO you're better off replacing something like that, depends what exactly it's connected to.
You'll have better results if you search for "repair ribbon cables" instead of FPCs as that's a much more common term.
Most fixes seem to involve either solder paste or those conductive ink pens.

[alexaz]

Fuck it, it doesn't matter anymore lol

[img]http://i.imgur.com/QlZa6z2.jpg[/img]

[Ddrl46]

[QUOTE=alexaz;43413861]Fuck it, it doesn't matter anymore lol

[img]http://i.imgur.com/QlZa6z2.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]

Is that a phone/pda or something like that? In that case it would have probably been easy to repair since those usually don't move. Ah well.

[alexaz]

[QUOTE=ddrl46;43414021]Is that a phone/pda or something like that? In that case it would have probably been easy to repair since those usually don't move. Ah well.[/QUOTE]

Yup, I had one trace done, moved on to the other one and while scratching off the mask it tore down.

[LoneWolf_Recon]

Here are some great (free) ebooks on Embedded Systems design.

[URL="http://electronicsforu.com/electronicsforu/circuitarchives/view_article.asp?sno=1628&title+=+10+Free+eBooks+On+Embedded+Systems%21&b_type=new&id=12571"]10 Free eBooks On Embedded Systems[/URL]

[Boatplugs]

I currently work at a laptop repair shop so I have access to tons of spare parts. I want to learn about reverse engineering these components. Does anyone have links to related reading materials?

[Map in a box]

Are there any RGB LED strips that are bright, take 5v, and only have one RGB input?(same color for all the leds) or do I have to push the effort and make one myself

[LoneWolf_Recon]

[QUOTE=reedbo;43419496]I currently work at a laptop repair shop so I have access to tons of spare parts. I want to learn about reverse engineering these components. Does anyone have links to related reading materials?[/QUOTE]

My post above, OP (Chryseus's Post), [URL="http://www.electronic-tutorials.ws/"]www.electronic-tutorials.ws[/URL], [URL="http://talkingelectronics.com/"]http://talkingelectronics.com/[/URL], [URL="http://www.alldatasheet.com/"]http://www.alldatasheet.com/[/URL], Google.

[editline]4th January 2014[/editline]

[QUOTE=Map in a box;43421018]Are there any RGB LED strips that are bright, take 5v, and only have one RGB input?(same color for all the leds) or do I have to push the effort and make one myself[/QUOTE]

All the RGB strips I've found run on 12VDC, to which you have options:
-Either desolder all of the resistors on the ribbon and replace them with lower value ones to adapt brightness (Tedious Way)
-Get a boost converter ([URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321226225158?lpid=82"]For Example This On Ebay[/URL])
-Build a boost converter: ([URL="http://www.nomad.ee/micros/mc34063a/index.shtml"]Design Guide for the MC34063A boost controller[/URL])

When you say "one RGB input" do you mean to where each LED outputs both R, G and B, for a full white? Or meaning you would like to control the individual colors with a separate control line?

[alexaz]

[QUOTE=Map in a box;43421018]Are there any RGB LED strips that are bright, take 5v, and only have one RGB input?(same color for all the leds) or do I have to push the effort and make one myself[/QUOTE]

There are the WS2812 strips, take 5V, but are abit more expensive as they have the chip die inside the LED itself and are addressable ( you can control the color of each one with 1 wire ).

[Map in a box]

I didn't want addressable leds, I just want one RGB for all of the LEDs because I'd assume that'd be cheaper and it'd be all I'd use it for

[r0b0tsquid]

Made a little audio amplifier:
[T]http://imgur.com/rWC5xce.jpg[/T]
Puts out just over a watt per channel, which is actually surprisingly loud. (There's only one channel for now because I need to buy more 2k2 resistors, but there's space). I cheated and used a dual op amp chip, the first op amp buffers and amplifies the voltage (gain adjustable from 1-10) and the second one corrects the crossover distortion in the output stage.
Soldering is about as messy as usual :v:
[T]http://imgur.com/OqbvcPm.jpg[/T]
Surprisingly it sounds pretty good!

[pentium]

So I've started a new engineering project for kicks.
Model 33 teletype machines naturally were not designed for modems. They became options late in their life and started with the Bell 101 and 103 which are essentially the first consumer modems. They had control units that took up the expansion space on the right side of the unit. Later variants eventually had the entire modem inside the machine. Unfortunately these are all uncommon and I've never seen a real Bell 103 modem. The solution today to add a modem is a 20ma current loop to RS-232 converter and any modem that will support the 110 baud a teletype runs at. The Hayes Smartmodem is a good choice because it supports that oddball rate and can still connect to modern systems.
Using that and just punching in the commands seems kind of cheating so I want to make it semi-automatic. With my machine I got an additional call controller for baudot Telex service. The electronics are totally useless but the buzzer, the rotary dial and the backlit buttons are what I want. I'll move them over to the regular ASCII control unit in my machine along with the faceplate. The idea is that when I switch to LINE mode a relay powers the modem circuit. Two buttons turn the modem on and off so I can still connect to other current loop or serial devices if I don't want to use the modem. The other two buttons are linked to a microcontroller and when pressed inject a command string for the modem into the TxD line on the serial output of the loop converter. One turns automatic answer on, the other puts the modem off hook and makes it listen in for a carrier signal. A simple telephone will also be built in so I can dial numbers and be notified by the buzzer when the line is ringing.
All in all it's five separate PCB's, a half dozen relays, ten pages of schematics/diagrams and some funky cabling. There's plenty of space to fit it all either in the unit or directly under the teletype on the pedestal. The final result will pass as an age authentic modem equipped teletype.

[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0584.jpg[/IMG]

Because I still need to finish some of the diagrams I started on repurposing the dial and buttons today. In case Telex becomes a hip thing in the future I noted cable locations and removed the old harness and switches and reattached it with a note on the old controller. I built a new bank of switches for the buttons and prepared the space for the phone. It's amazing how once you remove the voice components all you are left with is a buzzer, the pulse dial, a resistor, a capacitor and a line hook. It all fits on a tiny PCB under the rotary dial.

[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0585.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0586.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0587.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0588.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/Computer%20related/CGS_0589.jpg[/IMG]

More to come eventually.

[LoneWolf_Recon]

What is the specific pattern to look for a modem carrier signal, anyways?