Electrical Engineering V2

[pentium]

[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;43434359]What is the specific pattern to look for a modem carrier signal, anyways?[/QUOTE]

Any modem that answers a call will send a carrier signal as part of the initiation of the connection. It's a standard tone so when the Sartmodem hears it the modem completely engages into a data session.
Of course you can't just put the modem off hook and expect it to hear it, you need to program the CPU to listen for the signal as well using

AT D

...which brings the modem to attention, puts it off hook and tells it to expect a carrier signal.

[LoneWolf_Recon]

[QUOTE=pentium;43434476]Any modem that answers a call will send a carrier signal as part of the initiation of the connection. It's a standard tone so when the Sartmodem hears it the modem completely engages into a data session.
Of course you can't just put the modem off hook and expect it to hear it, you need to program the CPU to listen for the signal as well using

AT D

...which brings the modem to attention, puts it off hook and tells it to expect a carrier signal.[/QUOTE]

And you expect to receive that in the data buffer or do you look for a specific frequency? I found something that said the carrier frequency is 1650Hz, is that the tone to look for at initial connection?

[pentium]

That sounds about right. The modem is preprogrammed in ROM to know that frequency is a carrier signal. If it wasn't a standard it would have trouble connecting to various modems.
If you have an older modem with a CD lamp, that turns on when your modem detects the carrier signal.

[Doritos_Man]

[url]http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/252587878/stress-free-great-tool-for-breadboard-wire-strippi[/url]

I saw this and thought you guys in here might be interested in it.

[RoflKawpter]

What are those brown boards with gold circle hole things and where can I get them cheap in canadia? I'd love to have a couple

[Metallics]

[QUOTE=RoflKawpter;43440331]What are those brown boards with gold circle hole things and where can I get them cheap in canadia? I'd love to have a couple[/QUOTE]

It's often called protoboard. You can also get a variant called veroboard or stripboard. I get mine fairly cheap from ebay.

[DrLuke]

I think veroboard is just a brand of protoboard. Stripboard is what I can suggest.

[Metallics]

[QUOTE=DrDevil;43440584]I think veroboard is just a brand of protoboard. Stripboard is what I can suggest.[/QUOTE]

Pretty sure once upon a time veroboard might have been a brand but it seems to be the same as stripboard wherever I've seen it.

[q3k]

so hi there, I'm not dead yet

Managed to write some [URL=https://code.hackerspace.pl/q3k/aamux-dumper/tree]hacky Verilog[/URL] yesterday in order ot dump a Toshiba R100 BIOS chip. This allowed me to shoot some softcore hardware hacking porn.

[url=https://gallery.hackerspace.pl/pictures/IMG_0100.JPG][img]https://q3k.org/IMG_0100_T.JPG[/img][/url]

[url=https://gallery.hackerspace.pl/pictures/IMG_0103.JPG][img]https://q3k.org/IMG_0103_T.JPG[/img][/url]
(the AVR isn't connected to anything)

[url=https://gallery.hackerspace.pl/pictures/IMG_0104.JPG][img]https://q3k.org/IMG_0104_T.JPG[/img][/url]

[url=https://gallery.hackerspace.pl/pictures/IMG_0102.JPG][img]https://q3k.org/IMG_0102_T.JPG[/img][/url]

[RoflKawpter]

Also, quick question. I've got a soldering iron rated less than 40 watts. I assume that's safe for most electronics components? It's not adjustable, unfortunately. (I've been using that word a lot recently ;p) If not, can you recommend another type of soldering iron I should invest in down the road?

[alexaz]

[QUOTE=RoflKawpter;43441068]Also, quick question. I've got a soldering iron rated less than 40 watts. I assume that's safe for most electronics components? It's not adjustable, unfortunately. (I've been using that word a lot recently ;p) If not, can you recommend another type of soldering iron I should invest in down the road?[/QUOTE]
I personally would consider it safe only with through hole components.

For the soldering station I recommend the Ersa i-CON Pico/Nano. The handle is super lightweight and tiny, the cable is incredibly flexible, 80 watts and just EUR 121.00 * **

EDIT: Seeing that you are in Canada, there are most likely no Ersa's, so you'll be stuck with the giant heavy FX-888

[pentium]

[QUOTE=metallics;43440670]Pretty sure once upon a time veroboard might have been a brand but it seems to be the same as stripboard wherever I've seen it.[/QUOTE]

I buy my board in sheets on ebay from some place in Vancouver. When I need a board I score and snap a piece off.

Edited:
[url=http://stores.ebay.ca/pixel-print-ltd?_trksid=p2047675.l2563]Here's PixelPrint's store.[/url]

[TCWilliamson]

Neat, pity I can't find decent priced pad-per-hole boards like they have there ( I don't wish to pay £7 P&P + price)

[r0b0tsquid]

[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;43441993]Neat, pity I can't find decent priced pad-per-hole boards like they have there ( I don't wish to pay £7 P&P + price)[/QUOTE]

I got a load of perfboards from dealextreme, cheap and free shipping, took a long time to arrive though.
There are also various Chinese outlets on ebay that are worth looking into, shipping times are always crap so it's worth keeping some in stock (I'm also based in the UK).
If you want a pretty good UK dealer, head to [url=http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/hardware.html]this bitsbox.co.uk page[/url] and scroll down to "padboard".
If you're looking on eBay, just search for "PCB". [url=http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Strip-Board-Printed-Circuit-PCB-Vero-Prototyping-Track-Packs-of-5-/261199157440?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item3cd0aed8c0]This listing[/url] doesn't look too bad.

[TCWilliamson]

[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATARI-65XE-boxed-not-working-/191019329480?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=AAHGxigA1zG4qfCjIEiol6a9KME%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc[/url]

just won this, if I can fix it, great. If I can't, il try turning it into a neat retro keyboard XD

[pentium]

Not bad if you want an ATmega328 for $3.

[url]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/360732394240[/url]

[alexaz]

Still thinking about repairing my phone. Main power rail is shorting somewhere. How likely are ceramic, tantalum caps to fail and short? What about a chip failing and shorting? Is there any way to find them or is it just desoldering and testing?

[r0b0tsquid]

[QUOTE=alexaz;43452588]Still thinking about repairing my phone. Main power rail is shorting somewhere. How likely are ceramic, tantalum caps to fail and short? What about a chip failing and shorting? Is there any way to find them or is it just desoldering and testing?[/QUOTE]

If a tantalum cap fails short, you know about it :v:

[editline]blah[/editline]

Ceramic caps quite possibly though.

[S31-Syntax]

Yo Pentium, is this you?
[url]http://hackaday.com/2014/01/06/overhauling-an-ic-programmer/[/url]

[pentium]

[QUOTE=S31-Syntax;43452971]Yo Pentium, is this you?
[url]http://hackaday.com/2014/01/06/overhauling-an-ic-programmer/[/url][/QUOTE]

Awww yeah, made it again!

[LoneWolf_Recon]

I'm in a bit of a pickle, this is my second time doing PCB layout (First time with a 2 layer board, I did fairly well on my single layer board) and I'll admit its atrocious. Also, I'll admit I'm not with the status quo for not using Eagle (I'm using ExpressPCB/SCH because of the ease, I'm sorry)

However this is not the point, I'm concerned about the routing of everything except the color sensors (The four pads in the center) on my sensor board. I'm fairly certain that all the connections are made, and virtually positive that there are no shorts or cross overs. If someone could give a fresh pair of eyes, that'd be great. Atleast with the schematic and then the PCB layout in terms of crossovers/shorts or any tips (I'm not running any high frequency here, just pure DC analog)

[URL="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B54oyVnVRa5xWjQxaHIxRHpGVUk/edit?usp=sharing"]Schematic[/URL]

[URL="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B54oyVnVRa5xSjVNbERQSGh5Mmc/edit?usp=sharing"]PCB Layout[/URL]

Any help is appreciated, thank you.

(Note: The four holes in the center are mounting holes and some of the other blank holes are for wire jumpers)

[Ddrl46]

[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;43457372]I'm in a bit of a pickle, this is my second time doing PCB layout (First time with a 2 layer board, I did fairly well on my single layer board) and I'll admit its atrocious. Also, I'll admit I'm not with the status quo for not using Eagle (I'm using ExpressPCB/SCH because of the ease, I'm sorry)

However this is not the point, I'm concerned about the routing of everything except the color sensors (The four pads in the center) on my sensor board. I'm fairly certain that all the connections are made, and virtually positive that there are no shorts or cross overs. If someone could give a fresh pair of eyes, that'd be great. Atleast with the schematic and then the PCB layout in terms of crossovers/shorts or any tips (I'm not running any high frequency here, just pure DC analog)

[URL="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B54oyVnVRa5xWjQxaHIxRHpGVUk/edit?usp=sharing"]Schematic[/URL]

[URL="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B54oyVnVRa5xSjVNbERQSGh5Mmc/edit?usp=sharing"]PCB Layout[/URL]

Any help is appreciated, thank you.

(Note: The four holes in the center are mounting holes and some of the other blank holes are for wire jumpers)[/QUOTE]

Running the DRC in your PCB editor should show you wether you have any shorts, crossovers, unconnected traces or don't meet your set clearances.

[alexaz]

snip

[TCWilliamson]

Just won this too:

[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acorn-BBC-Micro-Vintage-Computer-Faulty-Continuous-Tone-/141154612599?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=AAHGxigA1zG4qfCjIEiol6a9KME%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc[/url]

[Chryseus]

[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;43461855]Just won this too:

[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acorn-BBC-Micro-Vintage-Computer-Faulty-Continuous-Tone-/141154612599?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=AAHGxigA1zG4qfCjIEiol6a9KME%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc[/url][/QUOTE]

Very nice!
I'd like to get my hands on a ZX Spectrum

[t]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4d/Sinclair_ZX_Spectrum.jpg[/t]
Sexy

[O Cheerios O]

[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;43461855]Just won this too:

[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acorn-BBC-Micro-Vintage-Computer-Faulty-Continuous-Tone-/141154612599?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=AAHGxigA1zG4qfCjIEiol6a9KME%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc[/url][/QUOTE]

Watch out, Mips/Pentium might become territorial.

[TCWilliamson]

[QUOTE=O Cheerios O;43462631]Watch out, Mips/Pentium might become territorial.[/QUOTE]

*stands my ground, holding my Switched-on HV transformer probes infront of me*

[fpro]

There are several kinds of Arduino boards. I've heard that the Uno isn't very beginner friendly and it is somewhat difficult to program. Is that true? What would you guys suggest I start out on.
What I want to do is record temperatures inside of my home and store/record them wirelessly over my LAN.

[O Cheerios O]

[QUOTE=false prophet;43462788]There are several kinds of Arduino boards. I've heard that the Uno isn't very beginner friendly and it is somewhat difficult to program. Is that true? What would you guys suggest I start out on.
What I want to do is record temperatures inside of my home and store/record them wirelessly over my LAN.[/QUOTE]

Unless you already have a router laying around capable of running DD-WRT/openWRT and that has internal UART pin-out's, you're almost better off with a raspberry pi.
Because it'll quickly get expensive getting a arduino on your computer, even moreso wirelessly.
Whereas a Raspberry Pi just needs a cheap USB wireless adapter, and already has the I/O ports suitable for most cheap temperature sensors.

[fpro]

I thought the Arduino could send/receive data wirelessly(through addons) from computers, cell phones, etc?
I don't want it to have it's own IP on my network.