[QUOTE=false prophet;43463031]I thought the Arduino could send/receive data wirelessly(through addons) from computers, cell phones, etc?
I don't want it to have it's own IP on my network.[/QUOTE]
You seem to be mashing a lot of things together. There's little difference programming an uno to any other type of arduino.
I botched up a system somewhat similar to what you're asking for, for my dad. I used adruino pro minis because we had some lying around (and they're cheaper)
I used a pair of cheap wireless trancievers (get em on ebay probably) One arduino was battery powered (simple voltage reg + 2 AAs) with a temperature sensor and transmitter. The only minor difficulty in coding that was getting it to be low power consumption and then proving it to my dads satisfaction (he's a right picky engineer)
Second arduino I had a wall power supply for and a tft screen from adafruit with an sd card slot in the back. Wrote the data to that and displayed averages min/max current and connectivity status on the tft.
Pretty easy to do only took me a few days.
[editline]8th January 2014[/editline]
Forgot to add, the temperature one lives in the greenhouse and the inside one lives in the study, 50m away inside the house. Works fine. External arduino should live for about a year off one pair of batteries.
[QUOTE=false prophet;43463031]I thought the Arduino could send/receive data wirelessly(through addons) from computers, cell phones, etc?
I don't want it to have it's own IP on my network.[/QUOTE]
It can, but getting it to communicate other Ethernet is gonna be costly, due to the supporting hardware required.
Especially if it's wireless Ethernet.
At minimum you NEED this for just wired lan connection:
[url]http://dx.com/p/118061[/url]
[url]http://www.adafruit.com/products/358[/url]
Screen I used
[url]www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Perfect-High-Quality-New-NRF24L01-2_4GHz-Wireless-Transceiver-Module-Arduino-p-41612.html?currency=GBP&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_content=miko_ruby&utm_campaign=Electronic-xie-uk&gclid=CP6VsM2P77sCFUmWtAodyj8AUg[/url]
Cheap and dirty transceiver, any will do.
That's literally all you need. You can then nab any data you need off the sd card, or if you're desperate you could tag a bluetooth transmitter on to the internal arduino and drop a bluetooth dongle in your pc and take data from it over serial.
[QUOTE=metallics;43463237][url]http://www.adafruit.com/products/358[/url]
Screen I used
[url]www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Perfect-High-Quality-New-NRF24L01-2_4GHz-Wireless-Transceiver-Module-Arduino-p-41612.html?currency=GBP&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_content=miko_ruby&utm_campaign=Electronic-xie-uk&gclid=CP6VsM2P77sCFUmWtAodyj8AUg[/url]
Cheap and dirty transceiver, any will do.
That's literally all you need. You can then nab any data you need off the sd card, or if you're desperate you could tag a bluetooth transmitter on to the internal arduino and drop a bluetooth dongle in your pc and take data from it over serial.[/QUOTE]
You used that wireless transceiver to communicate back and forth from your pc to the arduino? What was the software that you used on your computer to receive data with? Also what was the device that did the receiving? Another arduino?
I'm not sure what I'm asking anymore, I need to sleep on it and come back with more intelligible questions. :v:
[edit] I just reread your post. Derp, irrelevant questions.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;43461855]Just won this too:
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acorn-BBC-Micro-Vintage-Computer-Faulty-Continuous-Tone-/141154612599?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=AAHGxigA1zG4qfCjIEiol6a9KME%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc[/url][/QUOTE]
Nice, I grew up with a model B as my first computer :)
Interestingly these are the reason the Pi exists, back in the day these things were in schools with electronic breakout boards, they taught electronics and rudimentary programming (Beasty Robotic arm!). I have a feeling my generation was the last that got the benefit of these, they were great.
"Chuckie Egg" was my favorite game.
The power supplies were notorious for failing.
[QUOTE=Tezzanator92;43464350]Nice, I grew up with a model B as my first computer :)
Interestingly these are the reason the Pi exists, back in the day these things were in schools with electronic breakout boards, they taught electronics and rudimentary programming (Beasty Robotic arm!). I have a feeling my generation was the last that got the benefit of these, they were great.
"Chuckie Egg" was my favorite game.
The power supplies were notorious for failing.[/QUOTE]
Awesome, i have a feeling the powersupply will be piss easy to fix, if not, i can just buy another one with the same voltage outputs i guess.
[QUOTE=O Cheerios O;43462631]Watch out, Mips/Pentium might become territorial.[/QUOTE]
Aside from Apricot I don't care much for british micros.
Even the ZX81 is kinda.....eugh...
can you jtag an xbox using an arduino, i really wanna hack some stuff together but am bad with electronics
[QUOTE=jaooe;43470653]can you jtag an xbox using an arduino, i really wanna hack some stuff together but am bad with electronics[/QUOTE]
Instructables is a good source for beginners: [URL="http://www.instructables.com/id/Mod-Xbox-360-Controller-Using-Arduino-MW3/"]http://www.instructables.com/id/Mod-Xbox-360-Controller-Using-Arduino-MW3/[/URL]
I just noticed I had some dc adapter lying around, which outputs 6V and 450 mA. It's a bit on the low side for powering an Arduino, but it might be of use at one point.
[editline]9th January 2014[/editline]
I can probably find some more adapters if I really need one, right now I just saw a plug dangling from behind a plank somewhere. I can always buy one of these later
[t]https://www.iprototype.nl/images/products/849_big.png[/t]
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0ZwgyU1-R8[/media]
Finally bought a distance sensor, needed to do somthing to test it out.
So apparently the [URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJNwejkC3RM"]Intel Edison[/URL] has GPIO (With some mention of PWM), fantastic. But it raises the question of update speed.
This is a very interesting little device and is probably more attuned to professional developers than hobbyists, but we'll wait until Intel releases more details.
[QUOTE=Lapsus;43480425][media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0ZwgyU1-R8[/media]
Finally bought a distance sensor, needed to do somthing to test it out.[/QUOTE]
Is that an IR sensor? My experience with them is they are thoroughly terrible. The fact they only supply an analgoue output with it's weird voltage-distance response (and multiple possible distances for a given voltage) and the incredibly short range and the fact they don't like certain surfaces.... Do yourself a favour and get an ultrasound sensor or something.
I got my hands on one of these:
[url]http://www.maxbotix.com/Ultrasonic_Sensors/MB1040.htm[/url]
[QUOTE=metallics;43483457]Is that an IR sensor? My experience with them is they are thoroughly terrible. The fact they only supply an analgoue output with it's weird voltage-distance response (and multiple possible distances for a given voltage) and the incredibly short range and the fact they don't like certain surfaces.... Do yourself a favour and get an ultrasound sensor or something.
I got my hands on one of these:
[url]http://www.maxbotix.com/Ultrasonic_Sensors/MB1040.htm[/url][/QUOTE]
I think he has a ultrasonic sensor...
[QUOTE=quincy18;43483752]I think he has a ultrasonic sensor...[/QUOTE]
The rectangular shape (for an IR LED and IR detector side by side with a known gap) suggest otherwise. US sensors tend to look more like a small speaker (because that's what they are essentially)
I'm happy my project group both ordered an IR and a US sensor then. a distance sensor will be the most important thing in our current task, so we can't have it behaving oddly. Right now only the IR sensor got delivered though but I can start doing tests with it though.
[editline]10th January 2014[/editline]
that is, if school does order it. I saw my project's order list today and the only thing which got crossed was some project box (at first you had to make your project water resistant but we heard we hadn't after we made the list)
Is this buck-boost module any good?
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350963713406[/url]
Seems like it is designed around a dedicated buck-boost controller (FP5139, datasheet [B][URL="http://www.feeling-tech.com.tw/km-master/ezcatfiles/cust/img/img/10/fp5139v02-lf.pdf"]1[/URL][/B] and [B][URL="http://www.feeling-tech.com.tw/km-master/ezcatfiles/cust/img/img/24/fp5139v12-lf.pdf"]2[/URL][/B]) and a accompanying mosfet, instead of a LM2577 & LM2596 combo like other cheap modules, which in comparison is honestly both wasteful and a hacky way to create a buck-boost converter.
But while it looks good on paper, doesn't mean that it is great in reality.
[QUOTE=O Cheerios O;43499337]Is this buck-boost module any good?
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350963713406[/url]
Seems like it is designed around a dedicated buck-boost controller (FP5139, datasheet [B][URL="http://www.feeling-tech.com.tw/km-master/ezcatfiles/cust/img/img/10/fp5139v02-lf.pdf"]1[/URL][/B] and [B][URL="http://www.feeling-tech.com.tw/km-master/ezcatfiles/cust/img/img/24/fp5139v12-lf.pdf"]2[/URL][/B]) and a accompanying mosfet, instead of a LM2577 & LM2596 combo like other cheap modules, which in comparison is honestly both wasteful and a hacky way to create a buck-boost converter.
But while it looks good on paper, doesn't mean that it is great in reality.[/QUOTE]
The efficiency looks good, however this is a max (When the In/Out voltage difference is small by 2 or 3V). In my experience, a larger difference say between 12V and 5V has a resulting efficiency of ~82-85%, still good.
Keep in mind the FP is an external switch controller, so check up on the MOSFET's Rds to get some idea of the efficiency. Most likely it'll have better efficiency due to the LM's using bipolar switches instead of the FP's mosfet.
The controller itself may be nosier than the LM2577 (52kHz Osc on the LM vs ~500kHz on the FP or apparently 150kHz on that ebay board), but that depends upon your application and the frequency (ies) the load circuit will be using.
Also, that module has better load capabilities than the LM's (~800mA)
Something that may be a gamble is ripple voltage, its hard to determine this on external switches without a full schematic. (The LM's have ripple averaging ~40mV)
For applications with Audio frequencies and below, I'd use this with a good amount of certainty that it'd be fine.
RF, high frequency logic circuits are a gamble.
Just buy it. Even if it blows dicks, it's not a big loss.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;43501228]Just buy it. Even if it blows dicks, it's not a big loss.[/QUOTE]
There are some nice modules you can sample from TI too if you only need 1, not sure how much they cost commercially.
I have the LM2577 module, it works. Its funny how they can make a counterfeit chip, board, assemble it, ship it to Europe and still have it two times cheaper than the chip itself from Farnell.
Don't abuse samples please
Abusing samples is the reason why many companies stopped their sampling programs.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;43499644]The efficiency looks good, however this is a max (When the In/Out voltage difference is small by 2 or 3V). In my experience, a larger difference say between 12V and 5V has a resulting efficiency of ~82-85%, still good.
Keep in mind the FP is an external switch controller, so check up on the MOSFET's Rds to get some idea of the efficiency. Most likely it'll have better efficiency due to the LM's using bipolar switches instead of the FP's mosfet.
The controller itself may be nosier than the LM2577 (52kHz Osc on the LM vs ~500kHz on the FP or apparently 150kHz on that ebay board), but that depends upon your application and the frequency (ies) the load circuit will be using.
Also, that module has better load capabilities than the LM's (~800mA)
Something that may be a gamble is ripple voltage, its hard to determine this on external switches without a full schematic. (The LM's have ripple averaging ~40mV)
For applications with Audio frequencies and below, I'd use this with a good amount of certainty that it'd be fine.
RF, high frequency logic circuits are a gamble.[/QUOTE]
The mosfet appears to be a model which is very similar to this one:
[url]http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Infineon-Technologies/IPD088N04L-G/?qs=mzcOS1kGbgcniIJ4THuj7w==[/url]
Or a chinese clone/copy of it.
[editline]12th January 2014[/editline]
And here's a slightly better image of the board
[t]http://i.imgur.com/KcFmq.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=O Cheerios O;43507628]The mosfet appears to be a model which is very similar to this one:
[url]http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Infineon-Technologies/IPD088N04L-G/?qs=mzcOS1kGbgcniIJ4THuj7w==[/url]
Or a chinese clone/copy of it.
[...][/QUOTE]
That's actually a really nice Rds and fair rise time, I'd go ahead and snag it.
I went to the restore friday and found a canton powered sub panel (no speaker, just controls and inside circuit). Anyways, can someone help me figure out the wiring here? I've tried searching on google, but no luck.
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/WDi2Gg5.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/jrtcb4K.jpg[/thumb]
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/KKHldUM.jpg[/thumb]
I see two cut wires that are black and red going to a part on the circuit labeled "LS+" and "LS-"
Is that possibly the speaker connection?
That chunky autotransformer probably feeds off to two seperate circuits given the picture, one being the control circuit with an automatic gain controller (AGC), volume control and filter?
Thus those blue wires from the autotransformer go into that black rectangle that is a full bridge rectifier.
And yes LS+ and LS- are probably the +/- terminals for the Left Speaker.
So I got a couple of cheapy Polaroid Android tablets from a co-worker for free, who stated that his daughter "couldn't take care of her shit so she didn't deserve them". One of them works just fine (and was handy to use as a reference when restoring my PC after a HDD started spitting out SMART errors), but the other one has a cracked screen. Unit powers on okay, but the screen is broken as fuck (touch part is still good though). Tried finding a replacement based on the model number given on the ribbon cable, which was KD070D10-50NB-A21. Unfortunately, Google can't find anything if you include the -A21 at the end, but it did find an -A5. Just not sure if it's the same screen or not. Same dimensions, but the ribbon cable is shorter (roughly 2" compared to the roughly 5" length of the old one). Assuming it's the exact same pin-out (no way to be sure as I can't find any date sheets for the broken one), it might work, except putting it in would be a bitch since they placed the LCD cable and touch-screen cable connections on opposite sides of the board. It relies on the extra length of the LCD ribbon for you to be able to connect the touch-screen ribbon without having to resort to replacing your big fat American fingers with little tiny factory-worker fingers.
That, and it was $30 for the replacement screen plus who knows how much for shipping from the Far East (hooray for cheap Chinese tablets!) Oh well, maybe with a little work my more programming-inclined friend can do something with the board. (like a cheap, Chinese Raspberry Pi) :V
Turns out there might be a feedback problem wiring this thing up. If I unplug the input, the status LED turns from red to green and the speaker makes a very loud grinding noise.
[QUOTE=Sombrero;43527760]Turns out there might be a feedback problem wiring this thing up. If I unplug the input, the status LED turns from red to green and the speaker makes a very loud grinding noise.[/QUOTE]
Sounds like your set has a bad line filter, an easy (Maybe not as effective considering the amplification on that unit) fix would be adding a ferrite bead to your wall cable.
[img_thumb]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/19/Ferrite_bead_filter.png[/img_thumb]
I have been talking to the guys over at Delta Elektronika, they made the powersupply i brought broken, for free, they sent me designs to allow me to fix it up, got a full working 0-72V 0-20A SMPS power supply
Here are some pics of my load testing (awesome colours!)
[img]http://i.imgur.com/oiwM73Sl.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/QjyRdc8l.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/vPgGlyPl.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/9RIt1JGl.jpg[/img]
full size pics:
[url]http://imgur.com/a/inNKO#v7lCgvB[/url]
I had also tried electro plating with huge faliure... but my powersupply is now fixed *yes* (the price of it new is around £1400 compared to the £150 i brought the broken one for)
Best part is it cost £0 in parts as it was just a faulty sense connector it turns out! (feel sorry for the guy who sold it to me, he probibly thought it was properly broken)
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
