What are these things? I think they're capacitors but I can't read what's on them. It seems some of they say "104m" or something
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2014-01-14%2017.47.11.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);43534706]What are these things? I think they're capacitors but I can't read what's on them. It seems some of they say "104m" or something
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2014-01-14%2017.47.11.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Im fairly damn sure those are 0.1uF ceramic capaictors.
[editline]14th January 2014[/editline]
[QUOTE=pentium;43534651][img]http://i.imgur.com/QjyRdc8l.jpg[/img]
Delicious.[/QUOTE]
Cook's special, a mix of Salt, copper including some
washing up liquid <-(i was bored)
They're ceramic capacitors by the looks of it but that's as much as I can get out of it.
[quote]Im fairly damn sure those are 0.1uF ceramic capaictors.[/quote]
this
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);43534706]What are these things? I think they're capacitors but I can't read what's on them. It seems some of they say "104m" or something
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43645231/photos/electro/2014-01-14%2017.47.11.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.csgnetwork.com/capcodeinfo.html[/url]
I have a better chart as a image laying around somewhere, but I can't find it.
[IMG]https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Bd-RuGpCEAAwAHB.jpg[/IMG]
So I got a Logic Level Converter working for 5v to 3.3v, using some resistors and two transistors.
[QUOTE=metallics;43483457]Is that an IR sensor? My experience with them is they are thoroughly terrible. The fact they only supply an analgoue output with it's weird voltage-distance response (and multiple possible distances for a given voltage) and the incredibly short range and the fact they don't like certain surfaces.... Do yourself a favour and get an ultrasound sensor or something.
I got my hands on one of these:
[url]http://www.maxbotix.com/Ultrasonic_Sensors/MB1040.htm[/url][/QUOTE]
It's one of the old sharp IR sensors, it's working pretty well, though the output curve for voltage vs distance is really freaking weird like you say.
I'm fine with the short-ish range, and I haven't had any trouble with it at all, unlike my maxbotix sensor, which always seems to give me garbage data, no matter what.
I wouldn't say either of them are really reliable enough for anything important though, unless there's something I'm doing really wrong. [I haven't let the magic smoke out of either of them, I swear]
[QUOTE=GamingRobot32;43539817][IMG]https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Bd-RuGpCEAAwAHB.jpg[/IMG]
So I got a Logic Level Converter working for 5v to 3.3v, using some resistors and two transistors.[/QUOTE]
Or just get a 3.3V arduino
[QUOTE=DrDevil;43541521]Or just get a 3.3V arduino[/QUOTE]
"why do x when x has already been done?"
You're no fun, dude.
[QUOTE=Lapsus;43540924]It's one of the old sharp IR sensors, it's working pretty well, though the output curve for voltage vs distance is really freaking weird like you say.
I'm fine with the short-ish range, and I haven't had any trouble with it at all, unlike my maxbotix sensor, which always seems to give me garbage data, no matter what.
I wouldn't say either of them are really reliable enough for anything important though, unless there's something I'm doing really wrong. [I haven't let the magic smoke out of either of them, I swear][/QUOTE]
I was having problems for a while, then I got the sensor with the most focused beam and applied a simple 5 point median filter to the output as suggested by one of the guys who designed it supposedly and it worked a treat. The IR sensor just gave nonsense 95% of the time.
I'm currently trying to make something with an LDR and a motor, I want it to spin at the start and then when the LDR recieves less light, then I want the motor to stop, how would I do this in arduino code?
[QUOTE=Staneh;43543873]I'm currently trying to make something with an LDR and a motor, I want it to spin at the start and then when the LDR recieves less light, then I want the motor to stop, how would I do this in arduino code?[/QUOTE]
We need that how to run motors by arduino for dummy's picture again
No one ever reads the op.
[t]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59112523/how2ardweeno.png[/t]
[QUOTE=DrDevil;43541521]Or just get a 3.3V arduino[/QUOTE]
Its for a week long class, didn't have time to order a new one.
Almost there...
[url=http://i.imgur.com/3jpEkca.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/3jpEkcal.jpg[/img][/url]
[url=http://i.imgur.com/KcWoA9N.jpg][img]http://i.imgur.com/KcWoA9Nl.jpg[/img][/url]
Just have to program the thing now.
What's the name of those tubes again?
[QUOTE=DrDevil;43549329]What's the name of those tubes again?[/QUOTE]
Nixie
[QUOTE=Leestons;43549408]Nixie[/QUOTE]
Nah, those aren't nixie tubes. These are made out of wires with a relatively high resistance, and they start to glow when you put current through them (similar to a lightbulb). They don't require any high voltage supply, so you can drive them with a simple shift register as ddrl did it. They had a certain name though, which I forgot.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;43549329]What's the name of those tubes again?[/QUOTE]
Numitrons, in this case IV-9 numitrons.
-snip- wow fuck wrong and late
Oops, I stand corrected. Sorry.
I'm going to be working on a project with a really large number of LEDs and I'm looking at different power supplies. I'm going to need at most 34A, and it has to be at 5V, so I'm looking at this one:
[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mean-Well-200W-5V-40A-Single-Output-UL-CUL-Switching-Power-Supply-NES-200-5/1162876787.html[/url]
I know that when building a PC, it's good practice to not skimp on the PSU, and I'd assume that same rule applies for power supplies with these kinds of projects. That one is UL listed and has a bunch of extra certifications over, say, this much cheaper one:
[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100-Guarantee-5V-40A-switching-power-supply-retail-and-wholesale/786102103.html[/url]
Does that necessarily mean that the more expensive one is worth the extra cost?
[QUOTE=ddrl46;43549500]Numitrons[/QUOTE]
Would be neat if you could get sixteen-segment versions at a fair price.
But that's likely impossible.
He forgot the blue LED's.
[QUOTE=robmaister12;43550831]I'm going to be working on a project with a really large number of LEDs and I'm looking at different power supplies. I'm going to need at most 34A, and it has to be at 5V, so I'm looking at this one:
[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mean-Well-200W-5V-40A-Single-Output-UL-CUL-Switching-Power-Supply-NES-200-5/1162876787.html[/url]
I know that when building a PC, it's good practice to not skimp on the PSU, and I'd assume that same rule applies for power supplies with these kinds of projects. That one is UL listed and has a bunch of extra certifications over, say, this much cheaper one:
[url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100-Guarantee-5V-40A-switching-power-supply-retail-and-wholesale/786102103.html[/url]
Does that necessarily mean that the more expensive one is worth the extra cost?[/QUOTE]
Be careful buying power supplies from China. Usually the cheaper it is, the higher the risk of a house fire. Mean Well is a pretty known brand and is okay, but make sure you are getting a genuine one. Although its your choice, I personally avoid saving a few cents when dealing with mains.
[QUOTE=alexaz;43555652]Be careful buying power supplies from China. Usually the cheaper it is, the higher the risk of a house fire. Mean Well is a pretty known brand and is okay, but make sure you are getting a genuine one. Although its your choice, I personally avoid saving a few cents when dealing with mains.[/QUOTE]
I agree, if i buy one of those, i always open it up and look at the component ratings, raise them if needed (e.g. 12v output, 16v capacitor goes to 32 v capacitor)
Thank god finally the order for some stuff for my project for my uni has arrived. I've been waiting on it for like a month and the project is due in 2 weeks :v:
[QUOTE=alexaz;43555652]Be careful buying power supplies from China. Usually the cheaper it is, the higher the risk of a house fire. Mean Well is a pretty known brand and is okay, but make sure you are getting a genuine one. Although its your choice, I personally avoid saving a few cents when dealing with mains.[/QUOTE]
I had a hard time finding any made in the US or anywhere but China (though to be fair I didn't search extensively), though I would definitely prefer getting one made here.
Budget isn't a huge issue, not being a fire hazard is a huge issue, especially since this thing will probably be running 4-5 hours at a time (though it'll only be used like once or twice a month).
[editline]16th January 2014[/editline]
Did a bit more digging, found a Mean Well distributor in the US and found one with the original one I wanted available:
[url]http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/SE-200-5.shtml[/url]
But then I also found that they have one specifically marketed for LEDs that's 50A, has a 87% efficiency instead of 79% and a fan instead of passive cooling. It's way more expensive, though, and for some reason has a significantly lower MTBF (179k hours instead of 271k hours). It's still within the budget I have. Is it worth paying twice as much for, though?
[url]http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HSP-250-5.shtml[/url]
Keep in mind that those meanwell PSUs have exposed mains on the back (the screw terminal), so if you use it, you should put it in a case or atleast wrap the rear end in tape or something like that.
The new Arduino looks interesting to say the least. The shape of it is strange, for example the unused area around the outside of the double row pins
[t]http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/ArduinoTre_LandingPage.jpg[/t]
[url]http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardTre[/url]
[sp]Maybe it's so big because it comes from the U.S. [/sp]
[editline]17th January 2014[/editline]
I'm not sure but is it going to be some kind of competitor to the raspberry Pi?
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