[QUOTE=Tobba;43615401]Why dont you get something thats not a fucking museum peice, for probably way less the price[/QUOTE]
Because I have both sitting on my bench right now and I can't be assed to search craigslist and spend $80 alone driving to Vancouver and back for a fucking multimeter.
Edited: Seriously. I work with old stuff. Quit fucking bringing it up in every thread.
[QUOTE=Tobba;43615401]Why dont you get something thats not a fucking museum peice, for probably way less the price[/QUOTE]
'cause t00bz are the shit, yo.
I still have an old Heathkit tube-powered o-scope lying around somewhere collecting dust, though it might need new/repacked capacitors.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;43613482]You'll probably want 3-4 actually, because those numbers are based on the solar panel being in full sunlight, pointed directly at the sun, so the output could be considerably less if they're not angled properly. That is unless you're planning a mechanism to automatically track the sun.[/QUOTE]
I'm gonna wait a bit though, as the deal is over and I ordered like 50 euro worth of stuff before. I'll see what I can do with the 2 solar panels I already ordered.
I can probably power an ATtiny with the two I got, but how do I prevent them from frying all the stuff on the board suited for 5V when they get a lot of (sun)light?
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);43615850]I'm gonna wait a bit though, as the deal is over and I ordered like 50 euro worth of stuff before. I'll see what I can do with the 2 solar panels I already ordered.
I can probably power an ATtiny with the two I got, but how do I prevent them from frying all the stuff on the board suited for 5V when they get a lot of (sun)light?[/QUOTE]
Most things designed for 5V can handle up to 6 or even 7 depending on the maker/model number so no worries there. Consult your documentation to be sure.
According to that page those panels can spike up to 10V depending on conditions(open circuit, meaning "Not connected to anything"), so you could probably use a voltage clamp if you're really concerned about it.
Would something like this work?
[t]http://i.imgur.com/2TUkT4K.png[/t]
Selling some peltier units, look here for info:
[url]http://4hv.org/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?160615[/url]
PM me on here if you wish to buy :)
I have fount the short on my phone ( galaxy note ), it was a 0603 ceramic cap. I have removed it, but the phone still doesn't power up :( . What is interesting that it draws 0.1 A while holding the power on button. Is it normal to use 0.37 watts for a button?
[QUOTE=alexaz;43629627]I have fount the short on my phone ( galaxy note ), it was a 0603 ceramic cap. I have removed it, but the phone still doesn't power up :( . What is interesting that it draws 0.1 A while holding the power on button. Is it normal to use 0.37 watts for a button?[/QUOTE]
100mA isn't really that high for a modern phone, also are you sure it was a ceramic cap, I've
never actually encountered one of those failing except in over voltage conditions.
Yup, its a ceramic.
C-CER,CHIP;10000NF,20%,10V,X5R,TP,1608,0
It is a decoupling cap for the RF part of the phone. I haven't replaced it, just removed it and tried to power it up. It doesn't seem to be that important to affect the power up of the phone.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/X4BvT3q.png[/img]
U1003 is an RF DC-DC converter.
Where did you find the schematic for that? Unless it was just an example application circuit in the U1003's datasheet.
[GT-N7000][REF] Service Manual and Full Schematics
[url]http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813315[/url]
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;43622875]Selling some peltier units, look here for info:
[url]http://4hv.org/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?160615[/url]
PM me on here if you wish to buy :)[/QUOTE]
Any idea on the specification of the peltier?
[QUOTE=ben1066;43632727]Any idea on the specification of the peltier?[/QUOTE]
well it takes in 12v at around 5A, and it gets rather damn cold very quickly, its fairly big too. i shall ask if the company has a datasheet tommorow, they are also stacked (2 layers of pelteir elements.
My first PCB has arrived! :dance: (Also its my first go at designing for/soldering with SMD components):
Top:
[img_thumb]https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1551573_10203028744629235_1706855060_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
Bottom:
[img_thumb]https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1/1555500_10203028744549233_10307326_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
[B]Professionalism![/B]
[img_thumb]https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1/1528687_10203028744589234_632476263_n.jpg[/img_thumb]
Where did you get those manufactured? It's very unusual to see a board without soldermask and silkscreen.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;43649350]Where did you get those manufactured? It's very unusual to see a board without soldermask and silkscreen.[/QUOTE]
ExpressPCB, their mini-board service which locks your dimensions to 3.8" x 2.5" offers silkscreen for $71 for three boards or $51 for three boards (w/o Silkscreen/Soldermask). Shipping was pretty fast at three days.
I couldn't drill it out at my Uni's PCB mill as some of the traces are really tiny and close together 10 mil traces at ~10 mils apart and they were too small for me to etch it myself without goofing up.
If you don't mind waiting 3-4 weeks, you should order them in china. You can get the same board with soldermask and double sided silkscreen for just 20$ including shipping. The price of your boards are ridiculous for not having soldermask on them.
Examples of where you can order boards in china: hackvana.com (my favourite), itead, seeedstudio
[QUOTE=DrDevil;43649631]If you don't mind waiting 3-4 weeks, you should order them in china. You can get the same board with soldermask and double sided silkscreen for just 20$ including shipping. The price of your boards are ridiculous for not having soldermask on them.
Examples of where you can order boards in china: hackvana.com (my favourite), itead, seeedstudio[/QUOTE]
Hackvana is probably my next choice, I had considered them but ExpressPCB doesn't export gerbers/drls so I was locked into their service (And I didn't have the time recreate it elsewhere, plus EagleCAD's interface is a bit of a clusterfuck IMO).
Have you used DipTrace, I've heard good things about it?
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;43649872]Hackvana is probably my next choice, I had considered them but ExpressPCB doesn't export gerbers/drls so I was locked into their service (And I didn't have the time recreate it elsewhere, plus EagleCAD's interface is a bit of a clusterfuck IMO).
Have you used DipTrace, I've heard good things about it?[/QUOTE]
I've heard of DipTrace, and know quite a handful of people who use it, and they seem to be rather satisfied with it. I myself only have used Eagle before, which is pretty usable once you get used to the interface (I still agree with the clusterfuck though).
Just keep in mind that Diptrace has an annoyingly low limit of 300 pins, while Eagle just has a limit in board size (and layer count). 300 pins are easily reached with 2 TQFPs and some passives, while the board size restriction usually turns out to be easier to work around.
Compared to Eagle (and Altium), Diptrace seems to have a rather humane paying scheme. You can get a rather inexpensive version starting from 75$. It has the same limits as the free version, but you can use it for commercial projects, should you ever want to do anything in that direction. Eagle, in comparison, has a lite version for 69$. It also has the same limitations as the free version. If you want to go to higher specs though, Diptrace has less of a steep price curve as Eagle does.
After some testing....
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/CGS_0606.jpg[/IMG]
Lol. I'll stick with the shitty Heathkit until I find something better then the unpolarized Eico with it's hot chassis. I can see nothing but bad things happening.
Also, I rearranged the desk after replacing the HP-85 with a 9816. Made a plug block for the scope so I also don't have to reach around anymore.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/CGS_0596.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/CGS_0595.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;43648891]My first PCB has arrived! :dance: (Also its my first go at designing for/soldering with SMD components):
:peekchaz:
[/QUOTE]
Wow what? I make boards like this $0.15 per square inch.
[QUOTE=alexaz;43652681]Wow what? I make boards like this $0.15 per square inch.[/QUOTE]
Do you do plated through-holes? Because if you do, I'd like you to make some boards for me!
[QUOTE=alexaz;43652681]Wow what? I make boards like this $0.15 per square inch.[/QUOTE]
This is news to me, what is your specs are we talking $0.15 for sq. in. of a double sided with silkscreen/soldermask or what?
[QUOTE=pentium;43650475]Lol. I'll stick with the shitty Heathkit until I find something better then the unpolarized Eico with it's hot chassis. I can see nothing but bad things happening.
[/QUOTE]
Fit a polarized plug, it's not all that uncommon in vacuum tube equipment.
Alternatively a small isolation transformer.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;43653406]This is news to me, what is your specs are we talking $0.15 for sq. in. of a double sided with silkscreen/soldermask or what?[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=DrDevil;43653121]Do you do plated through-holes? Because if you do, I'd like you to make some boards for me![/QUOTE]
I think I got my math wrong, its around $0.30 - $0.40 for each square inch and a setup cost for each board of $0.40 ( bath of chemicals and printing the transparency ).
To put it briefly its just a board of FR4 with copper on both sides. Nothing more and nothing less. PTH vias are possible, but i do not own a CNC machine yet so I can't do them. Silkscreen is also possible but i don't see the need personally.
[QUOTE=alexaz;43664315]I think I got my math wrong, its around $0.30 - $0.40 for each square inch and a setup cost for each board of $0.40 ( bath of chemicals and printing the transparency ).
To put it briefly its just a board of FR4 with copper on both sides. Nothing more and nothing less. PTH vias are possible, but i do not own a CNC machine yet so I can't do them. Silkscreen is also possible but i don't see the need personally.[/QUOTE]
You can use another layer of toner as silkscreen.
Hell yeah! Today I bought a cheap chinese rework station. Gonna start learning electrical engineering stuff on holidays :)
[IMG]https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Be14deoIIAAZnID.jpg[/IMG]
I have, an arduino UNO, that I got in like 2010. I fucked it up somehow in 2011 trying to do a project with it. I wasn't able to upload any programs to it ,and its connection to the computer was questionable. I was bored today, I decided to try and fix it, and I did. I needed to flash new firmware to the Atmega8U2 (I have a rev 1). I have no plans for it but now I have a raspberry pi I'm not using.
So I am putting together a SMD-soldering-workshop for a small congress I am attending. I am working together with another guy from a hackerspace, and today is our first meeting.
I've already done this last year, with the ATTiny9 + Shift register board. The soldering itself worked a treat, but there was one fatal flaw with the whole thing: A lot of people attending that congress weren't hackers or even tech savvy. For them, the board was practically useles afterwards. This year though, I am adressing that very issue by making the board directly functional instead of a breakout board.
The plan is to greate a digital water-level with an accelerometer and 4 LEDs to indicate which side is low. Alternate functions are also a possibility, like a freefall detector or a tap detector. That way people can directly use the board afterwards without having to know how electronics work at all!
We're of course planning to keep the whole thing as cheap as possible, so we're ordering the boards together with a stencil from hackvana.com, which will probably cost us around 60$ for 20 boards (the stencil itself has a fixed 30$ price). We're going to use this accelerometer and microcontroller:
[url]http://www.digikey.de/product-detail/en/MMA8653FCR1/MMA8653FCR1CT-ND/3831441[/url]
[url]http://www.digikey.de/product-detail/en/ATTINY48-MU/ATTINY48-MU-ND/1886245[/url]
Together with some cheap LEDs, the component cost comes down to 1.87€ (+passives + voltage regulator), so I think we can offer one board for ~2-3€ a pop! If you ask me, that's phenomenal. Of course we will be charging something more like 5€ to offset leftover bits of kits and to make it a little bit worthwhile for our time.
Leestons Life Lesson: Double check your order before you confirm. Bought the surface mount version of a 555 by mistake.
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