Hey, guys. Can someone please recommend me a PCB company from China?
[QUOTE=Varsatorul;44028448]Hey, guys. Can someone please recommend me a PCB company from China?[/QUOTE]
hackvana.com for small and big volume
[QUOTE=Varsatorul;44028448]Hey, guys. Can someone please recommend me a PCB company from China?[/QUOTE]
I've had quite a good expierence with [url]http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html[/url].
[QUOTE=ddrl46;44029914]I've had quite a good expierence with [url]http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html[/url].[/QUOTE]
Indeed, that is the company i was planning :)
Shit, I ordered an AVR unit based on the Arduino nano from DX and it doesn't have a USB interface.
I can't program it when it comes in. :downs:
[QUOTE=Nightrazr;44033841]Shit, I ordered an AVR unit based on the Arduino nano from DX and it doesn't have a USB interface.
I can't program it when it comes in. :downs:[/QUOTE]
buy a little usb to uart connector, they are cheap as chips from china
Quick question guys, which would be better as an inductor for a tank circuit? A epoxy coated, axial lead inductor? A ferrite toroid core? Or a simple air core?
I'm leaning on ferrite toroid due to minimal B field leakage and minimal outside influence, however the axial lead would be simple to implement (And not a pain to wind exactly)
I'm explicitly looking at this [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panasonic-1008-1uH-5-Inductor-ELJFC1R0JF-Qty-100-/400088157840?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d271cce90"]lot of inductors[/URL] for a small rf project.
Why are electrical units, when displayed in their underived base form, so awful? Came across an interesting one today (software at work converts everything into base SI units), there is no SI equivalent of VAr. Everything gets shoved back into Watts... which kind of makes sense but at the same time totally doesnt. I get that VAr is just a vector of Watts but... how the hell do you deal with that in base SI?
[QUOTE=metallics;44042177]Why are electrical units, when displayed in their underived base form, so awful? Came across an interesting one today (software at work converts everything into base SI units), there is no SI equivalent of VAr. Everything gets shoved back into Watts... which kind of makes sense but at the same time totally doesnt. I get that VAr is just a vector of Watts but... how the hell do you deal with that in base SI?[/QUOTE]
It's a vector with the unit of Watt. What else would you convert it into?
VAr is just a naming convention to denote that it's reactive power.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;44042288]It's a vector with the unit of Watt. What else would you convert it into?
VAr is just a naming convention to denote that it's reactive power.[/QUOTE]
Yes but if it's in VAr you've separated it out from the Power Factor so technically it's lost the directional bit of the vector, it's a scalar, but it's not. Trying to gracefully handle that is difficult in the software I'm using.
[QUOTE=metallics;44042352]Yes but if it's in VAr you've separated it out from the Power Factor so technically it's lost the directional bit of the vector, it's a scalar, but it's not. Trying to gracefully handle that is difficult in the software I'm using.[/QUOTE]
I don't understand what you are trying to accomplish with your software. VAr is a vector with an SI unit. How and why would you convert it into anything else except into the length of the vector to determine the absolute value of the reactive power?
ahh yes, very good engineering
[t]http://i.imgur.com/EyHzlh3.jpg[/t]
actually the anal discovery is kind of nice
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;44042002]Quick question guys, which would be better as an inductor for a tank circuit? A epoxy coated, axial lead inductor? A ferrite toroid core? Or a simple air core?
I'm leaning on ferrite toroid due to minimal B field leakage and minimal outside influence, however the axial lead would be simple to implement (And not a pain to wind exactly)
I'm explicitly looking at this [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panasonic-1008-1uH-5-Inductor-ELJFC1R0JF-Qty-100-/400088157840?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d271cce90"]lot of inductors[/URL] for a small rf project.[/QUOTE]
Learn to wind your own, generally at RF frequencies you'd use air core inductors, even at lower frequencies air core inductors have some nice advantages.
I like to wind mine on a form then coat them in PVA glue, gives you a nice rigid coil.
Plus for some LC oscillator circuits you need to manually tweak things such as the coupling between coils which is kind of hard to do with a premade inductor.
[QUOTE=war_man333;44044741]ahh yes, very good engineering
[t]http://i.imgur.com/EyHzlh3.jpg[/t]
actually the anal discovery is kind of nice[/QUOTE]
Hey, don't I know you from somewhere?
no sorry don't think so
Ok guys I'm extremely bad with electrical engineering, so don't laugh at me.
I'm trying out a 7-segment display, this one specifically.
[url]http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/411572/KINGBRIGHT/SA56-11EWA_11.html[/url]
For now I just want to make it show a '1'.
I'm supposed to power segment B and C, and those equal pin 4 and 6, correct? Now, do I also need to power pin 5? What does pin 5 do?
Is ground unnecesary for this? (clearly novice)
[QUOTE=war_man333;44054076]Ok guys I'm extremely bad with electrical engineering, so don't laugh at me.
I'm trying out a 7-segment display, this one specifically.
[url]http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/411572/KINGBRIGHT/SA56-11EWA_11.html[/url]
For now I just want to make it show a '1'.
I'm supposed to power segment B and C, and those equal pin 4 and 6, correct? Now, do I also need to power pin 5? What does pin 5 do?
Is ground unnecesary for this? (clearly novice)[/QUOTE]
Pin 5 does the Decimal point in the bottom right corner
Ground is neede for a flowing circuit.
What i suggest is a 470R resistor on from the ground pin, to ground and a +12v or +5v going to the pins 4&6
[QUOTE=war_man333;44054076]Ok guys I'm extremely bad with electrical engineering, so don't laugh at me.
I'm trying out a 7-segment display, this one specifically.
[url]http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/411572/KINGBRIGHT/SA56-11EWA_11.html[/url]
For now I just want to make it show a '1'.
I'm supposed to power segment B and C, and those equal pin 4 and 6, correct? Now, do I also need to power pin 5? What does pin 5 do?
Is ground unnecesary for this? (clearly novice)[/QUOTE]
This type of 7-Seg is called a common anode, whereby all the LED segments are connected in common at their anode, so you must sink power (Connect to ground or a lower potential from that at the anode) to light a segment, do not connect a single resistor to the common cathode/anode of 7-Segs to limit power as this tends to unequally distribute power to each of the segments.
Instead connect an array of resistors to the individual cathodes and just sink em with transistors, digital pins, etc:
[IMG]http://www.electronicecircuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/4033-7-segment-common-anode-display-0-to-9-event-counter-circuit.jpg[/IMG]
(Also pin 5 is the Decimal Point pin)
Thanks guys. I was actually about to make something like the circuit illustrated above but I took the wrong switches. At least, I don't think I can use them.
[img]http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1x-MKS8011S-Kippschalter-2xU-125VAC-5A-6-35mm-T80-T-/00/s/NTc2WDgxNQ==/$%28KGrHqFHJFIE88e5RSipBPYz9QKfhg~~60_35.JPG[/img]
[editline]26th February 2014[/editline]
How far off am I? The resistor is 470 ohm.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/cqKQdEV.jpg[/t]
yellow = +5v
black = ground
no dice though.
I think you could still use them, just ignore one end
[QUOTE=Leestons;44054360]I think you could still use them, just ignore one end[/QUOTE]
It says 'ON' and 'ON' on both ends but the middle.
Also the 3 pins don't fit into the sockets of my board.
ON (OFF) ON switches mean that the middle pin is either connected to the left or the right one. When it also has an OFF position in the middle, it's connected with neither one.
So considering that my soldering iron borked because I was a dipshit and put pressure on it and the plastic handle it was attached to broke I decide that maybe it's time to get a new one.
Considering that the plastic bit says "Double Insulted" instead of "Double Insulated", I figured it was a cheap one and maybe I should not buy something like a soldering iron at a cheapy-arse hobby shop.
Can you guys recommend something that an amateur hobbyist like me could use? (Canadian places if possible)
Another question. Looking at the OP, I noticed a parts list for newcomers. Is there a place where I can get all of these at once online or in-store? Maybe a package on E-Bay or something? I already have an arduino uno with some parts (leds, small amt. of resistors, etc).
Sorry, another question. Is there anywhere I can read/look at that explains how datasheets are/how to use the components that they're talking about? I scrapped this from an old TV box: [url]https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/200539.pdf[/url] and I'm wondering how I could use it with my arduino.
Are there any places I can go on the internet where I can get a quicker response to questions (maybe a stack-overflow like place)?
I guess I have a LOT to learn.
Any help would be appreciated.
[QUOTE=RoflKawpter;44060639]So considering that my soldering iron borked because I was a dipshit and put pressure on it and the plastic handle it was attached to broke I decide that maybe it's time to get a new one.
Considering that the plastic bit says "Double Insulted" instead of "Double Insulated", I figured it was a cheap one and maybe I should not buy something like a soldering iron at a cheapy-arse hobby shop.
Can you guys recommend something that an amateur hobbyist like me could use? (Canadian places if possible)[/QUOTE]
[url]http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24790__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_with_US_Plug.html[/url] ??
[QUOTE=O Cheerios O;44061155][url]http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24790__Soldering_Station_with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_with_US_Plug.html[/url] ??[/QUOTE]
Those are suprisingly decent for the price as long as you throw away the conical tip it comes with and buy a 0.8/1.2mm chisel tip.
[QUOTE=war_man333;44054267]Thanks guys. I was actually about to make something like the circuit illustrated above but I took the wrong switches. At least, I don't think I can use them.
[img]http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1x-MKS8011S-Kippschalter-2xU-125VAC-5A-6-35mm-T80-T-/00/s/NTc2WDgxNQ==/$%28KGrHqFHJFIE88e5RSipBPYz9QKfhg~~60_35.JPG[/img]
[editline]26th February 2014[/editline]
How far off am I? The resistor is 470 ohm.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/cqKQdEV.jpg[/t]
yellow = +5v
black = ground
no dice though.[/QUOTE]
Read LoneWolf_Recon's post, and then swap red and black.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;44063987]Those are suprisingly decent for the price as long as you throw away the conical tip it comes with and buy a 0.8/1.2mm chisel tip.[/QUOTE]
Reminds me of my 60watt cheapo soldering iron.
It's borderline useless with the tiny and pointy tip, really needs a chisel tip.
My school has like 6 types of switches but none that fit on a breadboard... any suggestions?
Am I supposed to wire it (soldering) or what?
[QUOTE=war_man333;44054267][...]
How far off am I? The resistor is 470 ohm.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/cqKQdEV.jpg[/t]
yellow = +5v
black = ground
no dice though.[/QUOTE]
Currently you're shorting out your power supply as it's trailing from 5V directly to Gnd, try separating out your wires. (i.e. Yellow Wire > Red Wire > 7-Seg (Pin 8) > Resistor > Black Wire)
[QUOTE=war_man333;44066353]My school has like 6 types of switches but none that fit on a breadboard... any suggestions?
Am I supposed to wire it (soldering) or what?[/QUOTE]
That's the usual approach, yes. You solder wires to it, and then you can plug it into your breadboard with the wires. Alternatively you can try using alligator clips, but that will be very unreliable and you will get annoyed with those very quickly.
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