[QUOTE=Leestons;44067165][IMG]http://toscos.com/product_images/u/185/Tact_Switch__48812_zoom.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
Momentary tactile switches only switch while you press them though. (Hence the name)
Is that not what he wants?
No. I want a toggle switch.
[IMG]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0d/DIP_switch_01_Pengo.jpg/320px-DIP_switch_01_Pengo.jpg[/IMG]
DIP switch, perhaps?
-
otherwise, soldering wires is the way to go.
I don't think anyone can fault you for having switches hanging off your board if you need their functionality.
That dip switch looks nice! I'll see if they have that at my school. I'll upload a picture of this hell of a breadboard when I'm done.
Welcome to 'I Suck At This Shit', I'm your host, war_man333 (what a horrendous username)
So we have our 4 soldered switches here, looking real shitty, good job on that man.
We have absolutely no idea why nothing works, but we are 100% certain it sure doesn't work.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/TtPLsYx.jpg[/t]
I think I'll go to someone IRL with this, it's too hard so see anything from 1 picture.
[QUOTE=war_man333;44069204]That dip switch looks nice! I'll see if they have that at my school. I'll upload a picture of this hell of a breadboard when I'm done.
Welcome to 'I Suck At This Shit', I'm your host, war_man333 (what a horrendous username)
So we have our 4 soldered switches here, looking real shitty, good job on that man.
We have absolutely no idea why nothing works, but we are 100% certain it sure doesn't work.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/TtPLsYx.jpg[/t]
I think I'll go to someone IRL with this, it's too hard so see anything from 1 picture.[/QUOTE]
Looks like you're quite lacking in the power supply department. Seriously, though, do you have a schematic? If not, that might be a good idea.
The power isn't connected in the picture. I'm using a schematic, at least I'm trying to follow it.
You think this needs more than 5V?
Depends on your components. Could you upload the schematic for us to look at?
as far as I know those things only need like 2.2V
[editline]27th February 2014[/editline]
max says 2.5V
You sure you didn't fry the thing? You're using resistors which should prevent that.
[QUOTE=RoflKawpter;44070279]Holy crap 40 dollars shipping no thanks D:
Gotta find something else :P[/QUOTE]
$40 is cheap for a decent iron.
My desoldering gun was a clone and even then it was $120.
Bought one of [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Top-New-DC-Converter-Buck-Module-12V-Convert-To-5V-5V-Usb-Output-Power-Adapt-/171239034890?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=hrCv%252BnXQVRy0Ag3yRUgANVAdobA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc"]these [/URL]for my mum for her birthday. Gonna put it in her car so that she can charge her phone properly (and so I can too), up untill now she's used a micro USB car charger connected to a cheap portable USB-charger, with the iPhone cable connected to it. I also want the charger to be on the left side of the dash, since that's where I have my phone dock. I'll probably get around to doing it next weekend.
[img]http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/z/XHQAAOxy4t1SfWTz/$(KGrHqEOKnIFJsdd!WwgBSfWTzD09g~~60_12.JPG[/img]
[QUOTE=Gulen;44070525]Depends on your components. Could you upload the schematic for us to look at?[/QUOTE]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/ACRZZbF.png[/img]
The green things are LEDs but they are not necesarry.
Resistor 8 through 11 I am guessing are pulldown-resistors, as they are all 10K ohm.
The rest of the resistors are 300 ohm.
I'm not sure what kind of 7-segment the 'U2' is supposed to be but the one I'm using is a SA56-11EWA
I think you don't know how a breadboard works, since you have both pins of your resistors plugged into the same row.
Maybe you realize how it works by looking at this:
[t]http://mlab.taik.fi/paja/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/breadboard.jpg[/t]
Christ, you guys feel that? I think it was war_man slamming his head against his desk.
Don't feel bad though, bro, your schematic looks solid and assuming the effective lack of resistors didn't damage anything all you need to do is shift some leads around.
New Toys!
4x 2.7v 3000F
[URL=http://imgur.com/JNYKNrm][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JNYKNrml.jpg[/img][/URL]
got them for £20 each.. quite a good deal.. but what to do with them... Had a little play with them, melting wire and stuff.
Do what every man has to with caps that big.
Blow shit up.
I forgot about polarity. RIP capacitor :( At least it's easy to fix when the new ones arrive.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44081400]New Toys!
4x 2.7v 3000F
[URL=http://imgur.com/JNYKNrm][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JNYKNrml.jpg[/img][/URL]
got them for £20 each.. quite a good deal.. but what to do with them... Had a little play with them, melting wire and stuff.[/QUOTE]
I've seen people who had replaced car batteries with 6 (or few cases 7) supercapacitors of that caliber hooked in series.
[QUOTE=O Cheerios O;44084758]I've seen people who had replaced car batteries with 6 (or few cases 7) supercapacitors of that caliber hooked in series.[/QUOTE]
Saddly~ i do not have a car, looking for somthing else to use them for.. Hmm
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44088646]Saddly~ i do not have a car, looking for somthing else to use them for.. Hmm[/QUOTE]
send power trough shit that usually doesn't conduct all that well, i.e. (wet) wood?
How do you even charge those things? I'd imagine there would be a nice current draw.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);44088838]send power trough shit that usually doesn't conduct all that well, i.e. (wet) wood?[/QUOTE]
You'd need a fairly high voltage which super caps are not designed for.
[QUOTE=Leestons;44088858]How do you even charge those things? I'd imagine there would be a nice current draw.[/QUOTE]
Through a resistor usually, to limit the charge current.
[QUOTE=Leestons;44088858]How do you even charge those things? I'd imagine there would be a nice current draw.[/QUOTE]
I just set my 70v 20A powersupply to charge it, limiting the voltage to 9v still takes AGES to charge..
I intend to make a buck converter, stepping down say 60V @ 10A to 9v @ 66A
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44089102][b]I intend to make a buck converter, stepping down say 60V @ 10A to 9v @ 66A[/b][/QUOTE]
[img]http://msnbcmedia.msn.com/j/MSNBC/Components/Photo/_new/pb-110328-fire-jw1.photoblog900.jpg[/img]
RIP nuttyboffin
[QUOTE=r0b0tsquid;44090826][img]http://msnbcmedia.msn.com/j/MSNBC/Components/Photo/_new/pb-110328-fire-jw1.photoblog900.jpg[/img]
RIP nuttyboffin[/QUOTE]
Very well... due to worries about my safety from fellow members of this fine forum, i shall be lowering the output to 9V @ 60A
Waiting for some M12 terminals so i can connect my 50mm2 cable to it.. mabye i will use the whole thing as a spot welder!
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44091622]Very well... due to worries about my safety from fellow members of this fine forum, i shall be lowering the output to 9V @ 60A
Waiting for some M12 terminals so i can connect my 50mm2 cable to it.. mabye i will use the whole thing as a spot welder![/QUOTE]
You'll need more heatsink than electronics
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44091622]Very well... due to worries about my safety from fellow members of this fine forum, i shall be lowering the output to 9V @ 60A
Waiting for some M12 terminals so i can connect my 50mm2 cable to it.. mabye i will use the whole thing as a spot welder![/QUOTE]
That's 60 watts of dissipated heat.
Prediction:
[t]http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/nuclear-mushroom-cloud-5.jpg[/t]
That's assuming you can reach 90% efficiency!
[editline]1st March 2014[/editline]
Seeing as you don't actually need DC, you could consider just a step-down transformer and a half-bridge rectifier (single diode)?
And then just some sense + latch circuitry to sound a buzzer or open a relay when the voltage goes above 9V.
[editline]blah[/editline]
Actually you'll definitely want full bridge, half bridge gives massive even harmonics which means you'll be driving your transformer at at least double frequency for a significant part of the the power transferred, bad news.
[editline]blah[/editline]
Actually that's still a stupid idea isn't it. Whoops. You could get an MOT with a magnetic shunt on it and wind your own secondary for ~10V? The shunt will stop it from delivering (excessively) excessive of power under the effective short conditions of charging your caps.
Does anyone know if these caps need to be balanced as they're charged?
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
