[QUOTE=r0b0tsquid;44092994]That's 60 watts of dissipated heat.
Prediction:
[t]http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/nuclear-mushroom-cloud-5.jpg[/t]
That's assuming you can reach 90% efficiency!
[editline]1st March 2014[/editline]
Seeing as you don't actually need DC, you could consider just a step-down transformer and a half-bridge rectifier (single diode)?
And then just some sense + latch circuitry to sound a buzzer or open a relay when the voltage goes above 9V.
[editline]blah[/editline]
Actually you'll definitely want full bridge, half bridge gives massive even harmonics which means you'll be driving your transformer at at least double frequency for a significant part of the the power transferred, bad news.
[editline]blah[/editline]
Actually that's still a stupid idea isn't it. Whoops. You could get an MOT with a magnetic shunt on it and wind your own secondary for ~10V? The shunt will stop it from delivering (excessively) excessive of power under the effective short conditions of charging your caps.
Does anyone know if these caps need to be balanced as they're charged?[/QUOTE]
You know? there are loads of ways to do this im sure e.g.
-rectified rewound transformer
-full bridge ferrite transformer driven by IGBTs
I have chosen to do a buck converter, not because i feel it is the simplest, or most efficient...
But because ITS FUN and because ITS INTERESTING
I want to learn electronics, and its much more fun to have somthing that requires to use your brain like a buck converter then.. say a transformer and a diode with my variac or w/e
60W of heat dissapation is... meh, i have heatsinks big enough to cool much more heat dissapation, ofcourse i intend to see if i can get it as efficient as possible, just for the sake of it.
I never knew I could have so much fun with a 555 timer. Maybe I'm just easily amused.
[QUOTE=Leestons;44100331]I never knew I could have so much fun with a 555 timer. Maybe I'm just easily amused.[/QUOTE]
Oh you can do a lot with one... 555 timers can do some rather fun things... everyone like making a LED flash :P
Currently got it connected to a speaker. Ah the simple pleasures.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44095234]You know? there are loads of ways to do this im sure e.g.
-rectified rewound transformer
-full bridge ferrite transformer driven by IGBTs
I have chosen to do a buck converter, not because i feel it is the simplest, or most efficient...
But because ITS FUN and because ITS INTERESTING
I want to learn electronics, and its much more fun to have somthing that requires to use your brain like a buck converter then.. say a transformer and a diode with my variac or w/e
60W of heat dissapation is... meh, i have heatsinks big enough to cool much more heat dissapation, ofcourse i intend to see if i can get it as efficient as possible, just for the sake of it.[/QUOTE]
Fair enough, sorry if that came across as a bit pessimistic! Wish you all the best with it then, we'd all like to see it once it's done :)
[QUOTE=r0b0tsquid;44100471]Fair enough, sorry if that came across as a bit pessimistic! Wish you all the best with it then, we'd all like to see it once it's done :)[/QUOTE]
Ahaha, no problem
However.. i regret to inform you i likely won't have anything interesting to show for some time.
This is because my room is in development still, im still in the guest room, and everything is still stacked high in big boxes with very little space to move around. Parents told me to get my shit off the dinner table so i can't work anymore...
[img]http://i.imgur.com/qaTDv2L.jpg[/img]
Room under dev:
Front:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/UKQlLkV.jpg[/img]
Back:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/CQgAmIF.jpg[/img]
Roof:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/N6nx194.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=Leestons;44100351]Currently got it connected to a speaker. Ah the simple pleasures.[/QUOTE]
Chaining together 555's and hooking them up to an LM386 for ghetto synthesizer noise is a long standing passtime of mine. Throw in a decade counter and more 555's and you can have yourself a sequencer!
How do you connect two together? I'm not having much luck with Google. 555 A's output to the trigger of 555 B?
Pretty much, I'll dig out my old college notebook to double check but it was pretty much a few lines of [URL="http://www.play-hookey.com/digital/555/timer_555_sequencer.html"]this[/URL] and some other stuff feeding them. A fun experiment is to find ways to integrate [URL="http://afrotechmods.com/cheap/capacitor/digitalcapacitor.htm"]this[/URL] and 555s into things.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;44101089]Ahaha, no problem
However.. i regret to inform you i likely won't have anything interesting to show for some time.
This is because my room is in development still, im still in the guest room, and everything is still stacked high in big boxes with very little space to move around. Parents told me to get my shit off the dinner table so i can't work anymore...
[t]http://i.imgur.com/qaTDv2L.jpg[/t]
[/QUOTE]
Very little space? Where? There's like a whole lot of space in that image.
I mean, you can still see the floor, and probably walk around without the danger of stepping into an upside down DIP IC (I am augmented now).
[QUOTE=DrDevil;44103228]Very little space? Where? There's like a whole lot of space in that image.
I mean, you can still see the floor, and probably walk around without the danger of stepping into an upside down DIP IC (I am augmented now).[/QUOTE]
You say that but i still have to move stuff into here, managed to get some out into our spare bathroom.
when my room is done i shall have a large amount of desking for all my gear
I got maybe a 4th of the way through soldering my radio circuit to the PCB before I grabbed the hot end of the soldering iron thinking it was the handle.
Looks like my project is going to have to wait for the burns to heal...
[quote][t]http://i.imgur.com/CQgAmIF.jpg[/t][/quote]
I totally see potential here for a secret compartment.
[QUOTE=pentium;44104015]I totally see potential here for a secret compartment.[/QUOTE]
Ahaha, indeed, that will just be storage for camping gear and such saddly... However i do intend to make a small place next to my bed that will be activated by capacitive touch at 3 locations :)
Does anyone know whether Samsung phone batteries have a charger chip integrated? I want to make myself a spare battery charger however all I can find is people charging those with 5V off USB. So do these batteries come with some sort of ultimate retard protection circuit or the "teachers" have their houses burnt down after shooting the video?
[QUOTE=alexaz;44105234]Does anyone know whether Samsung phone batteries have a charger chip integrated? I want to make myself a spare battery charger however all I can find is people charging those with 5V off USB. So do these batteries come with some sort of ultimate retard protection circuit or the "teachers" have their houses burnt down after shooting the video?[/QUOTE]
None that I know of have a charge controller built in.
It's not that hard to build a charger, you could do it with a basic micro and a few transistors and such.
Nobody would incorporate that into a consumer battery, as it would take away space and mass and increase cost for something that can be implemented externally. Also, depending on the battery size it'd also become a thermal issue.
Absolutely a stupid question, but I can't get a good answer from any where else. When you wire capacitors of unequal capacitance in series, how do you calculate the voltage passing through each one? Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but none of the sources I'm seeing seem to be consistent.
[QUOTE=joshjet;44108615]Absolutely a stupid question, but I can't get a good answer from any where else. When you wire capacitors of unequal capacitance in series, how do you calculate the voltage passing through each one? Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but none of the sources I'm seeing seem to be consistent.[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/capacitor/cap_7.html[/url]
First result on google when searching for "capacitors in series voltage".
On a raspberry pi can someone explain why male-female leads need to be placed so specifically on a breadboard when resistor and other components are involved? I'm not experienced with electronics and I'm planning a few projects with the pi, and I'm more experienced with the code side as opposed to the electronics, even a few yt video tutorials would do?
Cheers guys.
[QUOTE=Erasus;44108795]On a raspberry pi can someone explain why male-female leads need to be placed so specifically on a breadboard when resistor and other components are involved? I'm not experienced with electronics and I'm planning a few projects with the pi, and I'm more experienced with the code side as opposed to the electronics, even a few yt video tutorials would do?
Cheers guys.[/QUOTE]
The breadboard allows you to easily connect parts together without having to solder them together (hence the name "Solderless Breadboard"). You don't HAVE to use a breadboard, but trust me, they make things really easy.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;44108794][url]http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/capacitor/cap_7.html[/url]
First result on google when searching for "capacitors in series voltage".[/QUOTE]
Yeah, sorry.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;44108810]The breadboard allows you to easily connect parts together without having to solder them together (hence the name "Solderless Breadboard"). You don't HAVE to use a breadboard, but trust me, they make things really easy.[/QUOTE]
Yeah I know, I was planning on using a breadboard for projects until I can afford multiple pi's to set them in stone by soldering, I know the literal bare minimum, I just don't understand why things need to be so specifically placed on them, here's a link:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpkI2JGdtAA[/media]
Somewhere along there he specifically places a male-female lead in the breadboard and mentions you do so, but why is there a need for certain positioning instead of just whacking them in anywhere?
[QUOTE=Erasus;44108833]Yeah I know, I was planning on using a breadboard for projects until I can afford multiple pi's to set them in stone by soldering, I know the literal bare minimum, I just don't understand why things need to be so specifically placed on them, here's a link:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpkI2JGdtAA[/media]
Somewhere along there he specifically places a male-female lead in the breadboard and mentions you do so, but why is there a need for certain positioning instead of just whacking them in anywhere?[/QUOTE]
You can whack it in anywhere you want, as long as you put the parts you want to connect into the same rows. The holes in the breadboard are connected together in this pattern:
[t]http://mlab.taik.fi/paja/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/breadboard.jpg[/t]
Replacing a capacitor is a piece of cake, right?
This has to be a board from hell. The solder didn't want to melt, I added some and still didn't get anywhere. Had next to fuck all progress with the solder sucker and the braid? Only thing it wicked up was the solder used to tin my iron. 30 minutes later and the bastard is still in there :suicide:
Lick it off.
Got impatient. The cap is removed but the pins are still there. Might try and drill them out.
Im so annoyed, i want to install a 32A socket in my room, according to UK laws, im not allowed to do it.. what the actual flying fuck... its my house, i should be allowed to do what i want, as long as i remove it if i sell the house.
I understand why they do it, heck they even say i can do it myself and get a qualified electrician in to check it over for the paperwork.. however none of them will, as they would rather you have to rip it out and pay them to do it at a rediculous price.
Im not willing to spend £3000+ and 3 years of my life, just so i can do some electricals...
I know how to do all the wiring, i know wiring sizes, fuse sizes etc... but those fat cats try to restrict everything to allow tradesmen to make more profit = more tax...
How long until it isn't legal to do hobbiest electrical above 48V at your own home without a license and a £2000 membership fee to some government organization...
Honestly, it's because of insurance. Let's say your house burns down, the investigation finds that it was your shoddy wiring that caused it. If you did it and told nobody, they'd blame it on you, and you'd get nothing. If an electrician came and approved it, he and his company would be at fault, so the insurance company would pay you, then go after them. There's also different requirements for a 32A circuit as opposed to the regular 10-16A, and if the electrician differs from the regulations, he himself has to provide proof that it is in fact safe enough to be in a home. Failure to do so would probably cost him his licence, get him fired, fined, sued, etc. I'll probably gonna be able to do it in a couple years though (currently studying Industrial Automation, once I get my licence in that I'll also be able to do stuff in my own home)
Why do you need a 32A socket anyways?
[QUOTE=Gulen;44114995]Honestly, it's because of insurance. Let's say your house burns down, the investigation finds that it was your shoddy wiring that caused it. If you did it and told nobody, they'd blame it on you, and you'd get nothing. If an electrician came and approved it, he and his company would be at fault, so the insurance company would pay you, then go after them. There's also different requirements for a 32A circuit as opposed to the regular 10-16A, and if the electrician differs from the regulations, he himself has to provide proof that it is in fact safe enough to be in a home. Failure to do so would probably cost him his licence, get him fired, fined, sued, etc. I'll probably gonna be able to do it in a couple years though (currently studying Industrial Automation, once I get my licence in that I'll also be able to do stuff in my own home)
Why do you need a 32A socket anyways?[/QUOTE]
I gathered that much, but its still very annoying, the stupid part is that i can do whatever i want on the other end of that socket and i won't have trouble with it legally (using it for power hobbiest electronics such as inverters, tesla-coils and HV powersupplies)
How come you can do home wiring with a Industrial Automation course... its nothing like that in the uk i think. to do electrical wiring of a building you need to go through a 3 year course, pay a few 1000 etc...
Why can't they have it done a different way, like you go though a big, reasonable priced book, take a practical and theory test and then you get that peice of paper saying you can.
realistically that shouldn't cost more then £100-150, let alone £3000+
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