Electrical Engineering V2

[jamie]

[QUOTE=benjgvps;44473848]snip[/QUOTE]

I've always heard good things about Hakko irons

[Ddrl46]

[QUOTE=benjgvps;44473848]I want to improve my soldering setup after having one hell of a time with my shitty Weller iron and solder recently.

I've been using some 1.6mm lead free shit for a while, since that's what the Canadian Tire near my house sells. I was in Princess Auto today and stopped by the soldering isle and found some 1mm 60/40 stuff, which should be better but I'd still like ~0.5mm if possible. I just can't find any in retail stores.

As for a new iron, I'm about to pull the trigger on this Hakko FX888D iron: [url]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/281104049653?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649[/url]

It's a bit expensive ($131 after import tax and shipping), but I'd rather get something that will last.[/QUOTE]

Just make sure you get the real thing, there are more sellers selling fake hakko stuff than there are real ones.

[Vule]

Yes, that's what i was looking for, thanks all.

[Implosive]

At what temperature do IC's become damaged by heat? My iron is set to around ~400c.

[LoneWolf_Recon]

[QUOTE=SteelReal;44482696]At what temperature do IC's become damaged by heat? My iron is set to around ~400c.[/QUOTE]

Depends upon the IC package, smaller chips are more sensitive to heat. Best strategy is to look at the datasheet and poke around for some soldering temps/times, most datasheets have a soldering curve (typically for reflow), but you can apply it to a normal iron as well.

[Chipset]

[QUOTE=SteelReal;44482696]At what temperature do IC's become damaged by heat? My iron is set to around ~400c.[/QUOTE]

That seems like a bit high, I set mine on 325 for regular soldering.
It depends on the thermal capacity of the iron though, bad irons need you to set the temperature higher cause they can't dish out enough power to keep the set temperature.

[Killuah]

Guys this dial in my 2.1 speakers isn't working anymore:

[t]http://i.imgur.com/1oDSwkw.jpg[/t]

Any ideas? Is it fixable?

[alexaz]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/DIpfvmL.jpg[/img]

Fuck me in the ass if this thing works and all pads made contact with the board. Living the 0,2 mm trace life is tough, yo.

[Tw34k]

[QUOTE=Killuah;44490031]Guys this dial in my 2.1 speakers isn't working anymore:

[t]http://i.imgur.com/1oDSwkw.jpg[/t]

Any ideas? Is it fixable?[/QUOTE]

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Ec12-e12-audio-encoder-360-deg-rotary-encoder-lotus-15mm-/171244781996?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27defc01ac[/url]

I found a fairly close replacement rotary encoder on ebay, you could search a bit deeper on proper component sites like digikey and get closer results but it will take some time to find.

Could also be a potentiometer, can't tell from your picture though.

[DrLuke]

[QUOTE=alexaz;44490266][img]http://i.imgur.com/DIpfvmL.jpg[/img

Fuck me in the ass if this thing works and all pads made contact with the board. Living the 0,2 mm trace life is tough, yo.[/QUOTE]

Quit teasing, does it work?

[Falcqn]

[QUOTE=DrDevil;44498456]Quit teasing, does it work?[/QUOTE]

yeah, we want to know if we should fuck you in the ass or not :v:

[alexaz]

I am not sure, this i2c is confusing me.

This is the data on the bus (Arduino: Wire.requestFrom(0x5C, 1));

101110010000000001

I assume that the first 7 bits is the address 1011100 (0x5C);
The 8th bit is 1, indicating that the master is reading.
9th bit is an ACK from the slave and it being 0 means that the slave received its call?

If so, /me takes his pants off.

[DrLuke]

[QUOTE=alexaz;44500326]I am not sure, this i2c is confusing me.

This is the data on the bus (Arduino: Wire.requestFrom(0x5C, 1));

101110010000000001

I assume that the first 7 bits is the address 1011100 (0x5C);
The 8th bit is 1, indicating that the master is reading.
9th bit is an ACK from the slave and it being 0 means that the slave received its call?

If so, /me takes his pants off.[/QUOTE]

Why don't you use an actually good i2c library instead (i.e. Peter Fleury's i2cmaster library)

[alexaz]

[QUOTE=DrDevil;44500455]Why don't you use an actually good i2c library instead (i.e. Peter Fleury's i2cmaster library)[/QUOTE]

I am using the MSP430G2553 with Energia environment. Libraries are scarce.

[DrLuke]

[QUOTE=alexaz;44500466]I am using the MSP430G2553 with Energia environment. Libraries are scarce.[/QUOTE]

What? You just said you're using your arduino:

[quote]This is the data on the bus (Arduino: Wire.requestFrom(0x5C, 1));[/quote]

[alexaz]

[QUOTE=DrDevil;44500480]What? You just said you're using your arduino:[/QUOTE]

Did that to avoid confusion. I failed. The Energia environment allows you to write arduino-like code for MSP430's.

[No_Excuses]

[QUOTE=benjgvps;44473848]I want to improve my soldering setup after having one hell of a time with my shitty Weller iron and solder recently.

I've been using some 1.6mm lead free shit for a while, since that's what the Canadian Tire near my house sells. I was in Princess Auto today and stopped by the soldering isle and found some 1mm 60/40 stuff, which should be better but I'd still like ~0.5mm if possible. I just can't find any in retail stores.

As for a new iron, I'm about to pull the trigger on this Hakko FX888D iron: [url]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/281104049653?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649[/url]

It's a bit expensive ($131 after import tax and shipping), but I'd rather get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
I had a cheapie no-name $30 soldering station that actually did me a lot of good, until I started encountering lead-free solder. I ended up breaking a tiny spot weld on the iron itself and ended up just binning the whole thing and getting the Hakko 888D. It's life changing how much better it is.

In fact my old iron was so shitty it had a potentiometer to adjust the temp, but didn't actually have any kind of scale...so you basically just twisted it about until the temperature seemed correct and went for it.

[TCWilliamson]

"You call that a Mill? This is a Mill. (With a CNC lathe ontop of it)"
[img]http://i.imgur.com/aLGZYdu.jpg[/img]

Just got back from Birmingham. Went to the Electronics Convention, Mach 2014 Engineering machining convention and a power systems, drive and phenumantics convention. All in the same set of buildings (around 3 football field size buildings)

When turning, the tool head can take 12mm chunks of steel off. Just peeling it away as if it was cheese.

Yes. Shaving off 12mm thick peices of steel shavings..

[Zero-Point]

Confounded semiconductor manufacturers and their insistence on offering chips with different naming schemes. I get access to lots of old circuit boards that formally did things such as run thermostats (got an ATMega32L out of one) or ice machines (typically PICs, though sadly the OTP versions), but every now and then I encounter these damnable CEPP chips for which I can find no data sheets.

I know they're made by Microchip, and are probably some sort of PIC chip, but if anyone here has any information that for some reason Google cannot conjure that'd be awesome.

[kokonut]

I operate a pick'n'place machine at work :downs:
also a screener
and a reflow oven ofc.

Hand soldering is for the poor

[Map in a box]

I bought a good bit of solder and oh god its lead free pls halp

[Ddrl46]

[QUOTE=Map in a box;44524703]I bought a good bit of solder and oh god its lead free pls halp[/QUOTE]

Throw it away and buy leaded solder.

[Map in a box]

[QUOTE=ddrl46;44524768]Throw it away and buy leaded solder.[/QUOTE]

I need to as well as get a new solder tip :c

[DrLuke]

[QUOTE=Map in a box;44524788]I need to as well as get a new solder tip :c[/QUOTE]

It's not like leadfree solder is a contaminant. Just wipe it off and you're good to go.

[MetricMoose]

I should really make a list of components and parts that I need when ordering from digikey. When I finally have enough stuff to warrant making an order, I always end up forgetting something small and I end up having to put it off until next time or get it from eBay or futurlec, which takes a lot longer to come.

[Map in a box]

[QUOTE=DrDevil;44524904]It's not like leadfree solder is a contaminant. Just wipe it off and you're good to go.[/QUOTE]

Not saying that it is, but I managed to destroy the tip :v

[kokonut]

[QUOTE=Map in a box;44527203]Not saying that it is, but I managed to destroy the tip :v[/QUOTE]

Tip cleaner/tinner not working? such as this [IMG]http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/images/RD614223-01.jpg[/IMG]

[Map in a box]

If I had some. It'd probably be easier and cheaper for me to just order a new tip though.

[Tw34k]

What did you do to ruin a tip?

Something a small file can't fix?

[Zero-Point]

This is sort of electronics related, so I guess I'll ask here.
I've had some idea for a prop I'd like to make someday, though it would involve having to basically blow a custom glass assembly for a plasma display, but not like a plasma globe where the plasma is flying around all over the inside of the globe, but "sticking" to the inner surface like this:
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Zkcb3EO.jpg[/IMG]
Any documentation on how to achieve this effect?