[QUOTE=Chryseus;48466722]Put some solder on your iron then press it to the pad and wire.[/QUOTE]
That's one thing I never thought of doing. Obviously I tinned the tip but didn't add any more solder to the iron. I'll give it a try next time, thanks!
[QUOTE=Leestons;48467092]That's one thing I never thought of doing. Obviously I tinned the tip but didn't add any more solder to the iron. I'll give it a try next time, thanks![/QUOTE]
Don't forget the flux, that's critical for getting a good joint if you're doing it like that.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;48464605]Could try desoldering the chip, sticking on a DIP socket and plugging in both the chip and associated wires. That might be pushing the 1cm budget, but that's what I can think of..[/quote]
That could work, provided I can get the actual IC desoldered. No idea what the other side of the board would look like. Never worked with DIP sockets, are there ones available that let you plug both the IC and another wire into a socket, or do you have to do additional work to fit both in?
[QUOTE=Chryseus;48465236]How exactly are you soldering those wires on, if you're putting solder on the tip and then on to the joint you'll never get a good result since the flux will burn off the tip long before it can be used, you need to have the wire held in place then feed the solder on or coat the DIP lead and wire with liquid flux before applying the solder.[/QUOTE]
I coated the wire with solder, held it against the lead and poked at it with a soldering iron until the solder melted. Initially I tried just holding the wire to the lead, and holding the iron against both of them while trying to shove solder into it and I couldn't get it to melt.
I don't solder very often so my lack of skill is also a pretty big factor.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;48466809]The sensors I've found on Adafruit/Sparkfun honestly wouldn't live up to the abuse of being exposed like that on a motorcycle. Especially not the temperatures it could feel being that close to the engine. I'd recommend [URL="http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Honeywell/CSLT6B100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsPYxdnOoPGenym%2fAi0vPAnO%2fHHFcU07E0%3d"]this[/URL] ([URL="http://sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-cslt-series-product-sheet-005862-2-en.pdf?name=CSLT6B100"]datasheet[/URL]), you shouldn't need a split voltage supply (as its DC current) but its worth and it's generally cheaper and more robust than the other sensors on Adafruit/Sparkfun.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the link, that should do the trick for the coil. I found a generic wheel speed sensor I can use on the rear rotor bolt pattern, so for the moment I'm all set. I'll probably be back here when I realize I don't understand Arduino programming as well as I hoped. Thanks!
Are the cables constructed from the umbilical cords of Vietnamese orphan children so as to better infuse the sound with humanity and a sense of wonder?*
*parody of some of the self-congratulatory wank-fest their "reviews" are spouting.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;48482347]WARNING Electronics Gore! [URL="http://www.coconut-audio.com/"]Fucking Audiophiles[/URL]...
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/zqjD9Qf.jpg[/img_thumb] [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/m1mKxBt.jpg[/img_thumb]
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/mVdePzi.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/goUEIt1.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/K09uJ2N.jpg[/img_thumb]
I just....
[IMG]http://oi60.tinypic.com/2lx86ma.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
What.. the... actual... fuck... is... this?!?!?!
[img]http://www.coconut-audio.com/images2/350x350/UnrealSATA20mm.png[/img]
[url]http://www.coconut-audio.com/sata3.html[/url]
I just....
I...
I...
EDIT:
brb, packing for retirement from humanity.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;48486454]What.. the... actual... fuck... is... this?!?!?!
[img]http://www.coconut-audio.com/images2/350x350/UnrealSATA20mm.png[/img]
[url]http://www.coconut-audio.com/sata3.html[/url]
I just....
I...
I...
EDIT:
brb, packing for retirement from humanity.[/QUOTE]
Coconut audio is a brilliant scam, that guy must be making mad bank. And the people he's taking of advantage of obviously have way more money than sense so it's not even that unethical.
Kiunda makes me wanna start up an audiophile shop...
Honestly I don't think anyone takes him seriously and I doubt he does it for anything else than enjoyment and mockery of the audiophile community.
I hope so at least...
Even some of the fucking designs look like some Bad Dragon shit. :v:
There's not even any claims that the SATA cables perform any faster than a normal one, the page even says "standard SATA 6Gbps wiring"! Charging $129 for a purely aesthetic bonus, what a fucking genius!
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;48487411]There's not even any claims that the SATA cables perform any faster than a normal one, the page even says "standard SATA 6Gbps wiring"! Charging $129 for a purely aesthetic bonus, what a fucking genius![/QUOTE]
It's not even aesthetic, it looks like someone has shoved a SATA cable through a double ended dildo covered in fabric....
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;48489398]It's not even aesthetic, it looks like someone has shoved a SATA cable through a double ended dildo covered in fabric....[/QUOTE]
Well I mean if that's the look people are going for and they're willing to pay $129 to get it then more power to 'em I guess.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;48487411]There's not even any claims that the SATA cables perform any faster than a normal one, the page even says "standard SATA 6Gbps wiring"! Charging $129 for a purely aesthetic bonus, what a fucking genius![/QUOTE]
If you look around the website it is very obviously satire.
On the topic of audio... I just finished making a working physical audio control for my computer (I turn the potentiometer, my software audio goes up and down)
[img]http://i.imgur.com/YzuaQif.png[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/lhlTFnW.png[/img]
[b]C#[/b]
[code]using System;
using System.Collections.Generic;
using System.ComponentModel;
using System.Data;
using System.Drawing;
using System.Linq;
using System.Text;
using System.Threading.Tasks;
using System.Windows.Forms;
using System.Threading;
using System.Net;
using System.Net.Sockets;
using System.IO;
using System.IO.Ports;
using System.Runtime.InteropServices;
using System.Collections.Generic;
using NAudio;
using NAudio.CoreAudioApi;
namespace Analog_Read
{
static class NativeMethods
{
[DllImport("winmm.dll", EntryPoint = "waveOutSetVolume")]
public static extern int WaveOutSetVolume(IntPtr hwo, uint dwVolume);
[DllImport("winmm.dll", SetLastError = true)]
public static extern bool PlaySound(string pszSound, IntPtr hmod, uint fdwSound);
}
public partial class Form1 : Form
{
BackgroundWorker commander = new BackgroundWorker();
SerialPort Port;
public Form1()
{
InitializeComponent();
foreach (string _port in SerialPort.GetPortNames())
{
cbox_port.Items.Add(_port);
}
Port = new SerialPort();
Port.BaudRate = 9600;
Port.Parity = Parity.None;
cbox_port.SelectedIndex = 0;
commander.DoWork += commander_DoWork;
commander.RunWorkerCompleted += commander_RunWorkerCompleted;
commander.ProgressChanged += commander_ProgressChanged;
commander.WorkerReportsProgress = true;
commander.WorkerSupportsCancellation = true;
}
private void commander_ProgressChanged(object sender, ProgressChangedEventArgs e)
{
int value = progressBar1.Value;
progressBar1.Value = Convert.ToInt32((string)e.UserState);
if (value != progressBar1.Value)
{
int val = (int)Math.Round((progressBar1.Value / 255.0) * 100.0, 0, MidpointRounding.AwayFromZero);
label1.Text = val.ToString();
SetVolumeForWIndowsVista78(val);
}
}
private void commander_RunWorkerCompleted(object sender, RunWorkerCompletedEventArgs e)
{
}
private void commander_DoWork(object sender, DoWorkEventArgs e)
{
while (!commander.CancellationPending)
{
while (Port.BytesToRead < 0) { }
if(!commander.CancellationPending)
commander.ReportProgress(0, Port.ReadByte().ToString());
}
}
private static void SetVolumeForWIndowsVista78(int value)
{
try
{
MMDeviceEnumerator DevEnum = new MMDeviceEnumerator();
MMDevice device = DevEnum.GetDefaultAudioEndpoint((DataFlow)0, (Role)1);
if (device.State == NAudio.CoreAudioApi.DeviceState.Active)
device.AudioEndpointVolume.MasterVolumeLevelScalar = (float)value / 100.0f;
}
catch (Exception)
{
}
}
private void btn_connect_Click(object sender, EventArgs e)
{
if (Port.IsOpen)
{
try
{
commander.CancelAsync();
Thread.Sleep(100);
Port.Close();
}
catch (Exception ex)
{
MessageBox.Show("Port was unable to close!\n" + ex.ToString());
return;
}
btn_connect.Text = "Connect";
}
else
{
try
{
Port.PortName = cbox_port.Text;
Port.Open();
commander.RunWorkerAsync();
}
catch (Exception ex)
{
MessageBox.Show("Port was unable to open!\n" + ex.ToString());
return;
}
btn_connect.Text = "Disconnect";
}
}
private void cbox_port_TextChanged(object sender, EventArgs e)
{
Port.PortName = cbox_port.Text;
}
}
}[/code]
C on an AVR Microcontroller
[code]#include <avr/io.h>
#include <avr/interrupt.h>
#include <stdbool.h>
#include <util/delay.h>
#define F_CPU 16000000UL
#define USART_BAUDRATE 9600
#define BAUD_PRESCALE (((F_CPU / (USART_BAUDRATE * 16UL))) - 1)
int main (void) {
UCSR0B = (1 << RXEN0) | (1 << TXEN0); // Turn on the transmission and reception circuitry
UCSR0C = (1 << UCSZ00) | (1 << UCSZ01); // Use 8-bit character sizes - URSEL bit set to select the UCRSC register
UBRR0H = (BAUD_PRESCALE >> 8); // Load upper 8-bits of the baud rate value into the high byte of the UBRR register
UBRR0L = BAUD_PRESCALE; // Load lower 8-bits of the baud rate value into the low byte of the UBRR register
//ADC SET UP
ADCSRA |= (1 << ADPS2) | (1 << ADPS1) | (1 << ADPS0);
ADMUX |= (1 << REFS0);
ADMUX |= (1 << ADLAR);
ADCSRA |= (1 << ADEN);
ADCSRA |= (1 << ADSC);
ADCSRA |= (1 << ADATE);
for(;;)
{
while ((UCSR0A & (1 << UDRE0)) == 0) {}; // Do nothing until UDR is ready for more data to be written to it
UDR0 = ADCH;
_delay_ms(100);
}
}[/code]
Nice bit of fun :)
That reminds me, I haven't posted the one I made.
Electrically it was simple, just a bunch of soldering little wires to a Teensy 2.0 board. Time consuming, but not difficult.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/HUENByD.jpg[/t]
It should end up in my car once I replace the PC I had in there.
Normally I'm moderately okay with soldering, though this has me stumped and I want to make sure that I'm not going to fuck it up.
I'm trying to solder a couple wires to the power button on an Intel NUC so I can hook them up to the power supply in my car that automatically turns on the PC and shuts it down. Though I can't seem to get my leaded solder or tinned wires to stick to the legs of the power button. I used a tiny dab of flux, have my iron set to 500 degrees (Fahrenheit, I'm pretty sure is what it uses) and am using a small chisel tip that's pretty much the perfect size for the area that I'm working with. Though I just can't get anything to stick! I'm so close to just trying to wire-wrap the two joints.
Here's a picture, I'm trying to solder to the two legs on the brown button closest to the camera.
[url=http://imgur.com/g74JJaE][img]http://i.imgur.com/g74JJaEl.jpg[/img][/url]
[QUOTE=benjgvps;48498094]Normally I'm moderately okay with soldering, though this has me stumped and I want to make sure that I'm not going to fuck it up.
I'm trying to solder a couple wires to the power button on an Intel NUC so I can hook them up to the power supply in my car that automatically turns on the PC and shuts it down. Though I can't seem to get my leaded solder or tinned wires to stick to the legs of the power button. I used a tiny dab of flux, have my iron set to 500 degrees (Fahrenheit, I'm pretty sure is what it uses) and am using a small chisel tip that's pretty much the perfect size for the area that I'm working with. Though I just can't get anything to stick! I'm so close to just trying to wire-wrap the two joints.
Here's a picture, I'm trying to solder to the two legs on the brown button closest to the camera.
[url=http://imgur.com/g74JJaE][img]http://i.imgur.com/g74JJaEl.jpg[/img][/url][/QUOTE]
500 degrees farenheit is a bit cold for what is probably unleaded solder on a high thermal mass board. I'd try something closer to the equivalent of 350 degrees celcius. Might also want to try to tin the pin first with a little bit of solder, so the leaded and your solder mix to make it a little bit easier to solder.
[QUOTE=ddrl46;48498732]500 degrees farenheit is a bit cold for what is probably unleaded solder on a high thermal mass board. I'd try something closer to the equivalent of 350 degrees celcius. Might also want to try to tin the pin first with a little bit of solder, so the leaded and your solder mix to make it a little bit easier to solder.[/QUOTE]
Heat was definitely the issue. I cranked up the heat to around 650 degrees and still wasn't getting anywhere. That small chisel tip that I was using was a cheap knockoff. I used my bigger chisel tip and the solder melted pretty much instantly. I ended up soldering to the front panel headers on the other side of the fan, since the pads were longer and flat. I hooked everything up in my car and it works perfectly! Well, the BIOS takes about 15 seconds to start loading Windows, but overall the machine is a lot nicer than the old one I had in there.
What are some interesting things that have been done with a teensy++ 2.0?
[QUOTE=Zephyz;48508431]What are some interesting things that have been done with a teensy++ 2.0?[/QUOTE]
Emulating USB peripherals.
wanna build a joystick/joypad, keyboard or mouse from scratch? well a Teensy (or arduino leonardo) can be a key part.
Hello, I just need confirmation before I start building this circuit. Is everything ok? I did it from my spare parts. It's 12V led driver from Raspberry PI (PWM).
Raspberry Pi output is 3.3V, 8mA.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ocHLDF6.png[/IMG]
I'd replace the PNP with the NPN, replace the NPN with a pull down. Remove R2 and keep R1.
As you only need to pull down the gate of the MOSFET and use the BJT to switch the gate.
I'd do this:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/jOkrMFV.png[/img]
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;48512155]I'd replace the PNP with the NPN, replace the NPN with a pull down. Remove R2 and keep R1.
As you only need to pull down the gate of the MOSFET and use the BJT to switch the gate.[/QUOTE]
That would at best put 2.7V on the gate of the MOSFET, since RDS is roughly proportional to Vgs you want as much gate drive as possible.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;48512226]I'd do this:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/jOkrMFV.png[/img]
That would at best put 2.7V on the gate of the MOSFET, since RDS is roughly proportional to Vgs you want as much gate drive as possible.[/QUOTE]
Ok thanks for idea!
But I found one phototransistor and red LED, so I will try to make cheap opto-coupler first. If that doesn't works, I will try your circuit.
[editline]22nd August 2015[/editline]
Hohoho, PWM works through normal LED and phototransistor!
It is just that I can't fully turn ON and OFF the LEDs. Doesn't MOSFET gate require same voltage as power supply?
[editline]22nd August 2015[/editline]
Oh and I use normal RED LED, it's the most effective for silicon as I know.
Rurrrrrrr
these new GaN transistors are beautiful <3
SMD... gold plating... easy cooling... black coloured.... TINY footprint (less then 0.75cm^2)
*shivers*
[url=http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GaN-Systems/GS66516T-E01-TY/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2fWi%252bJcOPWHLI8sGQ82R1bFq1SoEFkPO3uO3Q%3d%3d]650V, 60A, 27mOhm RDSon 13nC Gate Charge[/url]
[url=http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/692/GS66516T%20shortform%20datasheet%20150406-542126.pdf]Datasheet[/url]
[url=http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GaN-Systems/GS66508T-E01-TY/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug8c0WtlK0bLUfGfDEalctSXTqU1WdFa2wnMLj5rL9EZEzW3Ixu4G9G]650V, 30A, 55mOhm RDSon 6.5nC Gate Charge[/url]
[url=http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/692/GS66508T%20shortform%20datasheet%20150406-558441.pdf]Datasheet[/url]
[img]http://uk.mouser.com/images/gansystems/lrg/GS66508T_SPL.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;48522700]Rurrrrrrr
these new GaN transistors are beautiful <3
SMD... gold plating... easy cooling... black coloured.... TINY footprint (less then 0.75cm^2)
*shivers*
[url=http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GaN-Systems/GS66516T-E01-TY/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2fWi%252bJcOPWHLI8sGQ82R1bFq1SoEFkPO3uO3Q%3d%3d]650V, 60A, 27mOhm RDSon 13nC Gate Charge[/url]
[url=http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/692/GS66516T%20shortform%20datasheet%20150406-542126.pdf]Datasheet[/url]
[url=http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GaN-Systems/GS66508T-E01-TY/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug8c0WtlK0bLUfGfDEalctSXTqU1WdFa2wnMLj5rL9EZEzW3Ixu4G9G]650V, 30A, 55mOhm RDSon 6.5nC Gate Charge[/url]
[url=http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/692/GS66508T%20shortform%20datasheet%20150406-558441.pdf]Datasheet[/url]
[img]http://uk.mouser.com/images/gansystems/lrg/GS66508T_SPL.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
So those are quite 'big' compared to low-signal bipolar transistors?
But for their size, they pack a big punch!
------------------------------------------
One question, why doesn't this mosfet switches fully on? Did I fried it?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/CdMeqDA.png[/IMG]
It's simple circuit.
Gate is connected to 1k resistor, which is connected to +12V
Source is connected to ground.
Drain is connected to LED, which is connected to +12V
I measured Voltage on Gate and Ground, and it's 0.5V, what the fuck?
-----------------
Wait, resistor is 11.5Volts.. I think I am getting it now. I should pull up gate with 100kOhm and pullDown with 1kOhm, correct? Gonna try it now. Nope.
I suck at this, what the hell. Most funny thing is I already had working PWM driver on pinboard (or that white board with holes what ever it is called), then soldered it and it didn't worked jack shit. It's like transistors and mosfets are fucking with me
[editline]23rd August 2015[/editline]
This fucking asshole MOSFET doesn't even switch OFF when I connect GATE to GROUND.
I think I fried it, that is why he is asshole to me.
Sounds like a gate short, it doesn't take much to damage the gate SiO2 layer.
Also you don't need a pull-up resistor with MOSFETs since the gate current is essentially zero.
I assume there is a resistor in series with that LED as well.
[QUOTE=Chryseus;48523630]Sounds like a gate short, it doesn't take much to damage the gate SiO2 layer.
Also you don't need a pull-up resistor with MOSFETs since the gate current is essentially zero.
I assume there is a resistor in series with that LED as well.[/QUOTE]
yeah, it's 12V led strip, don't worry.
I think it's grounding problem that fried the MOSFET, because it also hurt me/shocked me when I touched raspberry PIs GND and 12V supply GND.
Meh, gotta find something else now. At least my confidence is restored since I was mindfucked for at least 2 hours.
[QUOTE=Fourier;48523261]This fucking asshole MOSFET doesn't even switch OFF when I connect GATE to GROUND.
I think I fried it, that is why he is asshole to me.[/QUOTE]
What's the part number of the MOSFET?
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Electrical Engineering V3
