[QUOTE=Chryseus;49705093][t]http://i.imgur.com/Y5f7dtR.jpg[/t]
I got some thermochromic sheet 30-35c to see how good it is for tracking down shorts / partial shorts, it seems to work pretty well, I put a 1/4W resistor under it and put 15V across it so it dissipates 225mW and sure enough it showed up quite clearly, only minor usage issue is you can't put a large sheet on a board that isn't very level but you could cut it in to smaller squares and put it in suspect areas, it's usefulness is seeing what heats up quickest since that's your most likely suspect, you can also get it in powder form but that seems to have a sharp transition temperature rather than a range.[/QUOTE]
Very neat,
have a look at the putty instead, that might be more suitable as it can surround components and pins / pads:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBFtBGpxhto[/media]
Been poking at the ATTiny85 a bit now, kept forgetting pin names, and programming cable was a bitch to deal with, and I wanted a voltage regulator so I can run it without a 'puter.
[t]https://i.imgur.com/ekeyPCM.jpg[/t]
I used a 220 ohm resistor for the LED, feels like looking into the sun.
[QUOTE=nikomo;49713015]Been poking at the ATTiny85 a bit now, kept forgetting pin names, and programming cable was a bitch to deal with, and I wanted a voltage regulator so I can run it without a 'puter.
[t]https://i.imgur.com/ekeyPCM.jpg[/t]
I used a 220 ohm resistor for the LED, feels like looking into the sun.[/QUOTE]
Have a link for that? I just use the bare chips but that board looks handy.
[QUOTE=Leestons;49713292]Have a link for that? I just use the bare chips but that board looks handy.[/QUOTE]
Pretty certain [URL="https://www.tindie.com/products/bot_thoughts/eezee-tiny-breakout-programming-board-kit/#"]this[/URL] is the supplier.
Here's the bottom.
[t]https://i.imgur.com/oVmNi5o.jpg[/t]
[editline]10th February 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;49713754]Pretty certain [URL="https://www.tindie.com/products/bot_thoughts/eezee-tiny-breakout-programming-board-kit/#"]this[/URL] is the supplier.[/QUOTE]
I'm pretty sure it's not.
Considering how I made the board and then ordered it.
[thumb]https://i.gyazo.com/173ed1a6c649cc2a165b6f4216ab5a58.jpg[/thumb]
What are these things? Googling "square electronic wax component" didn't really return any good results... :pudge:
[QUOTE=Meepbob;49723910][thumb]https://i.gyazo.com/173ed1a6c649cc2a165b6f4216ab5a58.jpg[/thumb]
What are these things? Googling "square electronic wax component" didn't really return any good results... :pudge:[/QUOTE]
[URL="http://www.qsl.net/yo5ofh/doc/if_cans/if_cans.htm"]IF Cans.[/URL]
[QUOTE=Meepbob;49723910][thumb]https://i.gyazo.com/173ed1a6c649cc2a165b6f4216ab5a58.jpg[/thumb]
What are these things? Googling "square electronic wax component" didn't really return any good results... :pudge:[/QUOTE]
Variable inductor in a can.
[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;49724106]Variable inductor in a can.[/QUOTE]
worst campbells soup ever
Do you guys perhaps have any idea how to fix a small thing on a tape-recorder? I have a Sony TC-270, and my pinch roller is going up too slow so it fucks the reel up when I switch to play
[QUOTE=nikomo;49713793]Here's the bottom.
[t]https://i.imgur.com/oVmNi5o.jpg[/t]
[editline]10th February 2016[/editline]
I'm pretty sure it's not.
Considering how I made the board and then ordered it.[/QUOTE]
Do you by chance have a parts list you are willing to share?
So I'm planning to build two things with a friend:
Firstly something that digitizes player piano rolls and then something that can punch new rolls. Actual player pianos use vacuum pipes but we thought it'd be easier to use a contact image sensor to read the rolls. We needed one from an A3 scanner since the rolls are ~28cm wide, and since they are $100+ on ebay and we figured we needed various motors etc too, we decided to look for some all in one scanners online and ended up with the following:
A Sharp ar-m351n for €15 (according to the listing it didn't print properly anymore, if I were to guess probably something wrong with the electrically charged drum thing, doesn't matter to us)
[t]http://i.imgur.com/uhDc5hp.jpg[/t]
And a Xerox Workcentre M24 for €20 (this one was listed for €75 and works perfectly but we bargained it down :v:)
Fun fact, since 2004 this thing has printed about 300k pages according to the built in statistics
[t]http://i.imgur.com/XcmftWA.jpg[/t]
So far tearing down the first one has been incredibly fun, besides two contact image sensors we also salvaged a bunch of stepper motors alone which would've cost us $20 each on ebay so that's great. Other than that we now have more photo interrupters that one could possibly need in a lifetime (I swear at least 25 of them), various motors, drivers for them, rotary encoders and gears, electronic clutches (I had no idea these existed), some solenoids, a bunch of power electronics, including some CCFL's and inverters and a color touchscreen. And that was just the first one, we haven't even started on the second one yet.
Also very glad they're laserjets and not inkjets, because the ink is basically just a powder that you can vacuum up.
We just split it up into electronics, plastic which goes straight into the trash and scrap metal, which we'll probably get a few euro's for. I forgot to take pictures of the tearing down part and the resulting electronics (which I might do for the second one), so have this picture of the top paper entry/scanner assembly for now until I get a chance to make more pictures
[t]http://i.imgur.com/tJ0s2CF.jpg[/t]
We'll probably use an Arduino to control it. Next step is to find datasheets on the parts we're going to use, primarily the contact image sensor. If for some reason we can't get any of them working the fallback plan is just using a webcam to scan the rolls
Linear CCDs are amazing for scanning long objects.
And way overkill for white line scanning robot.
[QUOTE=Fourier;49739134]And way overkill for white line scanning robot.[/QUOTE]
What else would you suggest? I thought about using whatever a barcode scanner uses but couldn't find much on how those work internally
[QUOTE=andreblue;49738453]Do you by chance have a parts list you are willing to share?[/QUOTE]
Not OP but you can just look at it. There are only 8 components that aren't the ATTiny.
[URL="http://www.advanced-monolithic.com/pdf/ds1117.pdf"]Voltage Regulator[/URL]
220 resistor
1k resistor
4.7k resistor
A diode
A SMT LED
Probably a 10uF cap and 22uF cap based on the AMS1117 datasheet
The rest are just standard connectors
[QUOTE=Goz3rr;49739212]What else would you suggest? I thought about using whatever a barcode scanner uses but couldn't find much on how those work internally[/QUOTE]
It's perfect, though you could do fine with IR LED and sensor (and then multiplex led/sensors).
Are you gonna use it for actual line following robot? I didn't see that from your post :v:.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_2620.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_2622.jpg[/IMG]
I don't know what it is. I was told it was a telephone dialer but it totes is not. It also doesn't exist on google.
The circuitry is such that it emits a 600hz tone at idle and when you press DIAL it starts cycling through the numbers using a sequence of 600/1500hz modulation. The output is audio-line level.
[editline]asdas[/editline]
[quote="Ddrl46"][img]http://i.imgur.com/EnjmzJR.jpg[/img][/quote]
I fucking hate you.
[QUOTE=pentium;49739542][IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_2620.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_2622.jpg[/IMG]
I don't know what it is. I was told it was a telephone dialer but it totes is not. It also doesn't exist on google.
The circuitry is such that it emits a 600hz tone at idle and when you press DIAL it starts cycling through the numbers using a sequence of 600/1500hz modulation. The output is audio-line level.
[editline]asdas[/editline]
I fucking hate you.[/QUOTE]
Can't help it, finally getting the hang of some of this GPIB stuff :v:.
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTSy3kuIXvM[/media]
[QUOTE=Fourier;49739501]It's perfect, though you could do fine with IR LED and sensor (and then multiplex led/sensors).
Are you gonna use it for actual line following robot? I didn't see that from your post :v:.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Goz3rr;49738718]
Firstly something that digitizes player piano rolls and then something that can punch new rolls. Actual player pianos use vacuum pipes but we thought it'd be easier to use a contact image sensor to read the rolls.[/QUOTE]
:what:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/aPoqGDw.jpg[/img]
Lets establish a few things first, how fast is that piano tape going to go? What's the minimum width between each note printed on that tape?
It seems too small for an IR array, so you might wanna go with MIPS's idea of a linear CCD (provided you can find one with a decent resolution).
Linear CCD is perfect for that.
Or smartphone with good camera.
The linear CCD and optics in any scanner these days should do unless the scroll is overly wide.
Another thing is figure out the spacing of the holes across the page and do the optical method like I did when I built my paper tape reader however because you lack a sprocket hole you can use for timing the capture one horizontal line at a time you will need to generate an accurate timing signal some other way. One solution is if the scroll is wound by a motor you also add a strobe disc to the same shaft as the motor and use that with an optical encoder. Another is a friction wheel with the encoder attached to that.
[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bv5mfmxuRsw]There seems to be a fair number of designs floating around. Here's one that uses the optics out of a scanner like we had originally considered.[/url]
Punching new rolls however...you will still need some sort of timing wheel but actually punching the holes will be another thing. You might wanna see how they do it in a video.
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=BEYg_oQIeIE[/media]
Also yes, that's an Apple II that's running the punch. :v:
woke up next to this...
[thumb]http://i.imgur.com/BKHSbxm.jpg[/thumb]
[QUOTE=Dolton;49739434]Not OP but you can just look at it. There are only 8 components that aren't the ATTiny.
[URL="http://www.advanced-monolithic.com/pdf/ds1117.pdf"]Voltage Regulator[/URL]
220 resistor
1k resistor
4.7k resistor
A diode
A SMT LED
Probably a 10uF cap and 22uF cap based on the AMS1117 datasheet
The rest are just standard connectors[/QUOTE]
You never know for sure on caps. Thats the main reason for asking
[QUOTE=andreblue;49740918]You never know for sure on caps. Thats the main reason for asking[/QUOTE]
[URL]https://github.com/TheNikomo/Tiny85/blob/master/Schematic.pdf[/URL]
The caps literally don't matter. It would run fine-ish without them.
You can skip the diode, LED and 220R too. And the 1K, if you can guarantee you meet minimum load requirement.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;49739763]
It seems too small for an IR array, so you might wanna go with MIPS's idea of a linear CCD (provided you can find one with a decent resolution).[/QUOTE]
Why do you think we tore down a printer :v:
Got both a CCD and CIS from it, the CCD requires a mirror and lens assembly with it so I'm hoping I can get the CIS working
[QUOTE=pentium;49739835]The linear CCD and optics in any scanner these days should do unless the scroll is overly wide.[/QUOTE]
Like I said the rolls we're intending on using are slightly smaller (about one centimeter) than A3 paper so that'll fit the scanner parts nicely
[QUOTE=pentium;49739835]
Another thing is figure out the spacing of the holes across the page and do the optical method like I did when I built my paper tape reader however because you lack a sprocket hole you can use for timing the capture one horizontal line at a time you will need to generate an accurate timing signal some other way. One solution is if the scroll is wound by a motor you also add a strobe disc to the same shaft as the motor and use that with an optical encoder. Another is a friction wheel with the encoder attached to that.[/QUOTE]
Pretty much everything you listed is possible with the amount of parts we've salvaged. Can either use a stepper motor to drive the roll, put a rotary encoder on the shaft or paper or use one of these:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/bBkBgMJ.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=nikomo;49741238][URL]https://github.com/TheNikomo/Tiny85/blob/master/Schematic.pdf[/URL]
The caps literally don't matter. It would run fine-ish without them.
You can skip the diode, LED and 220R too. And the 1K, if you can guarantee you meet minimum load requirement.[/QUOTE]
Welp im a derp. Didnt notice that file. Thanks
HELLO FOLK FRIENDS
I'd like to upgrade the firmware on my monitor (see here: [url]http://www.blurbusters.com/benq/diy-firmware-upgrade-for-benq-z-series/[/url]) as apparently the new firmware is absolutely crap-tacular!
I don't want to buy the MSTAR ISP Adapter cause LOTS of money. I'd like to attempt to make this adapter! [url]http://forums.blurbusters.com/download/file.php?id=10[/url]
I do have some experience soldering, making circuits, etc. I have the resistors and I think I have the transistors (I'd have to check my supply bin) However, I'm super sketched out with making this because I'd rather not fry my expensive monitor.
I'd either like some kind of guidance on how to make this (interpretation of the circuit) or maybe I can just ask someone in Canada (I live here) to make one and ship it to me?
Would anyone just give me a general idea of how dodgy it would be if I was to make something like this? It doesn't seem really complicated, but I'd like a second opinion on how I should tackle this.
Thanks
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Electrical Engineering V3
