I actually almost got my entire board assembled with hot air though, but MEMS oscillators are really fragile, I thought I was pretty careful with the heat but the fucker exploded while I was testing the output.
And the short took out the already way too heat damaged regulator on the 3.3V rail and sent it to a not-so-healthy 4.7V. I think I can just scrap that attempt.
Made this fan thing to keep me cool in the summer, but it blows in the wrong direction. life
[t]http://i.imgur.com/izaPKBM.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/OGhQ65y.jpg[/t]
[QUOTE=BummieHEad;50340404]Made this fan thing to keep me cool in the summer, but it blows in the wrong direction. life
[t]http://i.imgur.com/izaPKBM.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/OGhQ65y.jpg[/t][/QUOTE]
Seems I'm not the only one who uses hot glue and cardboard.
Also you can use it as a soldering fume extractor.
Just reverse the polarity
[QUOTE=DrDevil;50341092]Just reverse the polarity[/QUOTE]
not all fans can do that. i have a pc fan that refuses to work on reverse.
[QUOTE=andreblue;50341374]not all fans can do that. i have a pc fan that refuses to work on reverse.[/QUOTE]
Reverse the polarity of the fan, not the current :v:
[QUOTE=andreblue;50341374]not all fans can do that. i have a pc fan that refuses to work on reverse.[/QUOTE]
It was just meant as a joke. It wouldn't even make sense from an aerodynamic standpoint to have the fan spin in reverse.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;50343441]It was just meant as a joke. It wouldn't even make sense from an aerodynamic standpoint to have the fan spin in reverse.[/QUOTE]
sorry the sarcasm tag didnt register. The polarity and current one struck me as odd. I was kinda tired
[QUOTE=DrDevil;50341092]Just reverse the polarity[/QUOTE]
Yes, I reversed it and sealed the deal with loads of hot glue without testing it. It said fuck you and refused to blow the other way, had to do some shippyshappy wiring to fix it back to thr wrong way blowing. So I learnt that you should test shit more often. Wuuu
[QUOTE=BummieHEad;50346691]Yes, I reversed it and sealed the deal with loads of hot glue without testing it. It said fuck you and refused to blow the other way, had to do some shippyshappy wiring to fix it back to thr wrong way blowing. So I learnt that you should test shit more often. Wuuu[/QUOTE]
or always keep an eye on the fan arrow.
[QUOTE=Tobba;50337771]Anyone got any tips when building a reflow oven? Trying to do this with only hot air was a bad fucking idea; not enough control, so I guess I'll just have to build one.
IGBTs seem to have gotten really cheap these days though, I can get ones that can handle 600@49A for a dollar each. Neat.
[editline]17th May 2016[/editline]
I'd be more concerned about the cracked chip.[/QUOTE]
What sort of tips do you need?
[QUOTE=Tobba;50337771]Anyone got any tips when building a reflow oven? Trying to do this with only hot air was a bad fucking idea; not enough control, so I guess I'll just have to build one.[/QUOTE]
My tip is to learn to handle the hot air gun. It's really easy to control it. There are more than enough videos showing how to do it on youtube.
From my experience with reflow ovens I can tell you that it can be frustrating enough to use one, let alone to build one. If you really need one, buy one. But I highly doubt you really need one.
Started a new job pulling cable and installing infrastructure. I installed an outdoor video camera my first day. But I wasn't allowed to take a picture of it because they wouldn't let me take my phone in that area. We do stuff at government contractors and other businesses.
Trying to assemble a decent little tool bag. But using only meh tools in it. In case it's stolen or lost.
Speaking of jobs:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/TgTJcN0.jpg[/t]
I get to manage the electrical systems on our testing fleet of dozers and backhoes. It basically consists of
a) plug in CAM programmer
b) select firmware file
c) hit program and don't turn off the machine
Pretty tricky stuff for an intern.
-snip should have googled first-
[QUOTE=DrDevil;50347630]My tip is to learn to handle the hot air gun. It's really easy to control it. There are more than enough videos showing how to do it on youtube.
From my experience with reflow ovens I can tell you that it can be frustrating enough to use one, let alone to build one. If you really need one, buy one. But I highly doubt you really need one.[/QUOTE]
It's just damn hard to have precise control over the temperature of the components when using hot air. My oscillator fried after 5 minutes of power and the short caused the power supply IC to fail instantly, before the built-in protection could kick in. I'm fairly sure both of those were caused by excessive heat damage.
[editline]19th May 2016[/editline]
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;50347308]What sort of tips do you need?[/QUOTE]
Most builds I've seen just seem... crude. Single cheap badly referenced thermocouple, lack of actual power control, etc. I'm mostly curious if anyone's built one that doesn't match that ControLeo2 guide everyone seems to use.
[QUOTE=Tobba;50349981]It's just damn hard to have precise control over the temperature of the components when using hot air. My oscillator fried after 5 minutes of power and the short caused the power supply IC to fail instantly, before the built-in protection could kick in. I'm fairly sure both of those were caused by excessive heat damage.
[/QUOTE]
Did you try using less heat then? You also have to use a shitload of flux and circle the broad vicinity of the board to heat it up evenly. Otherwise you're subjecting your ICs to thermal shock, which can break some frail ICs. However, I've really abused some ICs (even MEMS-sensors) with my hot air gun, and they still worked perfectly afterwards.
I think you're doing something fundamentally wrong. Do you mind outlining your process?
[QUOTE=DrDevil;50350327]Did you try using less heat then? You also have to use a shitload of flux and circle the broad vicinity of the board to heat it up evenly. Otherwise you're subjecting your ICs to thermal shock, which can break some frail ICs. However, I've really abused some ICs (even MEMS-sensors) with my hot air gun, and they still worked perfectly afterwards.
I think you're doing something fundamentally wrong. Do you mind outlining your process?[/QUOTE]
Apply paste / solder (I ran a bit low on paste) + flux (probably not enough), hold component in place and circle the rough area. For the larger stuff with thermal pads I heated the shit out of the bottom first. For the oscillator I actually had to melt the pads and then attach the component afterwards though, it just [I]flat out refused[/I] to melt with the component on (while everything in the vicinity had already melted a minute ago).
[editline]19th May 2016[/editline]
It'd probably also be a whole lot easier if I had some stencils, and [URL]https://oshstencils.com/[/URL] turns out to be a thing, so I'm definitely getting some for my second attempt.
[editline]19th May 2016[/editline]
I'm fairly sure I was doing something pretty wrong though and created really overheated spots in places I didn't mean to. Holding the nozzle at an angle might also have been really bad thanks to airflow shenanigans.
[QUOTE=Tobba;50349981]Most builds I've seen just seem... crude. Single cheap badly referenced thermocouple, lack of actual power control, etc. I'm mostly curious if anyone's built one that doesn't match that ControLeo2 guide everyone seems to use.[/QUOTE]
Crude doesn't automatically equate to ineffective. So long as it's able to reach and/or hold a temperature within the range you want it, you should be golden. If you want to alleviate the single thermocouple problem, you can always add another if you want to, there's nothing to stop you. :v:
Do they sell integrated decoders? I want a 3 to 8 decoder. I could conceivably make one myself but I kind of need it to be put into a small area and I feel like anything I solder togetger is gonna be a big crappy jumble of wires.
[QUOTE=proboardslol;50372612]Do they sell integrated decoders? I want a 3 to 8 decoder. I could conceivably make one myself but I kind of need it to be put into a small area and I feel like anything I solder togetger is gonna be a big crappy jumble of wires.[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/74HC_HCT238.pdf[/url]
?
Yes they [URL="http://www.ti.com.cn/cn/lit/ds/symlink/74ac11138.pdf"]exist[/URL], in [URL="https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/COM-09577-m74hc238.pdf"]various[/URL] [URL="http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/74HC_HCT138.pdf"]forms[/URL].
Sorry for all these "does this exist" questions, but do mechanical water level switches regulate voltage or are they simple switches (on off)?
[QUOTE=proboardslol;50373123]Sorry for all these "does this exist" questions, but do mechanical water level switches regulate voltage or are they simple switches (on off)?[/QUOTE]
Depends on the type.
Those typically found in fuel tanks are potentiometers where the wiper arm is attached to a float.
And then there's those found in wells and sewage tanks, those are just on/off switches that turns a drain pump on/off.
Followed a Youtube how-to and converted a Guitar Hero drum set into a MIDI enabled drum instrument.
Guy was recommending the Uno which is overkill for this. Once again my favourite arduino, the Pro Mini, proves its worthiness and reduces the PCB surface area by 75%.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/f42796736.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/f43222784.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/f43626944.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_3938.jpg[/IMG]
It turns out my last batch of Pro Minis I bought didn't have bootloaders. :v: Because me and a guy at the makerspace were getting pissed off with reliably programming them I built a little jig that lets me burn the bootloader by ISP without soldering anything on the boards yet and then later once you had legs soldered on you could drop it in the sockets and program it the usual way with a USB adapter.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_3931.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_3932.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_3933.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_3935.jpg[/IMG]
the Drum code also had to be modified. It wasn't mentioned anywhere what channel the notes were being sent on and it seems they were defaulted to channel 1 which conflicts with a Yamaha DX7 and the Rock Band Keytar. Because the address is a hex byte simply changing
[code]#define NOTE_ON_CMD 0x90
#define NOTE_OFF_CMD 0x80[/code]
to
[code]#define NOTE_ON_CMD 0x99
#define NOTE_OFF_CMD 0x89[/code]
...made it transmit on channel 10.
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzWwUPkSEvs[/media]
it was pretty cool seeing this.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_3988.jpg[/IMG]
[b]EWWWWWWWWW!![/b]
[editline]asda[/editline]
ALL the socketed IC's had these dead fuckers under them!
[img]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/IMG_3981.jpg[/img]
Time to get debugging.
Hey bud I think I found a bug in your system
[editline]24th May 2016[/editline]
Fuck, late
how the fuck they get in there
do they go in small
grow
then can't escape and die?
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
Electrical Engineering V3
