[QUOTE=scratch (nl);50676024]is The Art of Electronics worth getting? It gets a lot of praise for being straight to the point, which is something that does sound quite interesting to me as well.[/QUOTE]
The 3rd edition is definitely worth getting, it has lots of useful information without drowning you in boring equations and other nonsense like circuit analysis.
[QUOTE=scratch (nl);50676024]is The Art of Electronics worth getting? It gets a lot of praise for being straight to the point, which is something that does sound quite interesting to me as well.[/QUOTE]
Yes, however watch out for fake copies. I think EEVBlog has a video guiding you with what to look out for.
I feel like this isn't even worth posting here, but I'm happy with the results:
[t]http://i.imgur.com/dQ1YpXY.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/phcqtFO.jpg[/t]
Warning: music
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_xuGV5xH4M[/media]
and here's me attempting to ride it (I'm not very good at all)
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmm_uWp-SFE[/media]
[editline]9th July 2016[/editline]
Ugly jumble of hot glue and wires. Also blue is disconnected cause I only have one potentiometer and maybe I'd like to add another in the future. Thing burns through A23s like it's nothing.
[QUOTE=proboardslol;50680673]
skateboard[/QUOTE]
Looks good, I had a laugh at the hot glue and tape use but I'd probably do the same :v:
Are the wires under the hot glue soldered together?
[QUOTE=Kevin;50682042]Looks good, I had a laugh at the hot glue and tape use but I'd probably do the same :v:
Are the wires under the hot glue soldered together?[/QUOTE]
No haha. I didn't have my soldering iron with me so I twisted them together and glued them down
[QUOTE=proboardslol;50684739]No haha. I didn't have my soldering iron with me so I twisted them together and glued them down[/QUOTE]
oh genius, never really thought about that when I didn't have my soldering iron - I used to twist them together and use electrical tape but it falls off super easily.
[QUOTE=proboardslol;50680673]
Ugly jumble of hot glue and wires. Also blue is disconnected cause I only have one potentiometer and maybe I'd like to add another in the future. Thing burns through A23s like it's nothing.[/QUOTE]
With a pot you're wasting battery life as heat when dimming the LEDs.
Also, never heard of A23s until you mentioned them. They only provide around 55mAh... and they're actually just a bunch of tiny batteries in series.
[T]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bc/A23-open-closed.jpg[/t]
You're not going to get any meaningful amount of battery life from these. You'd be better off with a bigger battery holder for some rechargeable batteries. I don't recommend li-ions or Li-Po unless you want to add a BMS, although they are really good batteries in terms of battery capacity per weight.
Either a single yet huge li-ion/li-poly cell and a boost converter (so it can be charged with a cheap lithium charger) or 4 cells in series (which requires a balancing circuit and a advanced charger or a cell holder) and a buck converter.
[QUOTE=Van-man;50685546]Either a single yet huge li-ion/li-poly cell and a boost converter (so it can be charged with a cheap lithium charger) or 4 cells in series (which requires a balancing circuit and a advanced charger or a cell holder) and a buck converter.[/QUOTE]
You could. But also note that the capacity of most batteries is measured at the listed Ah, but is not a linear relationship when drawing more or less than that listed amount.
For example. An 1500mAh battery will last for an hour discharged at 1.5 amps. But if you draw 3 amps (2x as much), it likely won't only half the capacity, but it could be 1/3 the capacity instead. The opposite can also be true, where drawing less will allow for a slightly larger capacity. It's best to look at the battery's datasheet for the discharge capacity curve.
I say this as you will draw more amps when boosting the voltage compared to naturally having that voltage to begin with.
[QUOTE=gjsdeath;50687503]You could. But also note that the capacity of most batteries is measured at the listed Ah, but is not a linear relationship when drawing more or less than that listed amount.
For example. An 1500mAh battery will last for an hour discharged at 1.5 amps. But if you draw 3 amps (2x as much), it likely won't only half the capacity, but it could be 1/3 the capacity instead. The opposite can also be true, where drawing less will allow for a slightly larger capacity. It's best to look at the battery's datasheet for the discharge capacity curve.
I say this as you will draw more amps when boosting the voltage compared to naturally having that voltage to begin with.[/QUOTE]
I'm more than well aware of that, but usually the expensive chargers required for multi-cell lithium packs are enough to turn people away from projects.
[QUOTE=Van-man;50687575]I'm more than well aware of that, but usually the expensive chargers required for multi-cell lithium packs are enough to turn people away from projects.[/QUOTE]
Was more directed at proboardslol, since he doesn't seem as familiar with this sorta stuff. I agree though, the idea of having to carefully balance charge and discharge multiple cells can be pretty discouraging. Especially as it can be pretty expensive and/or complicated depending on the project.
[QUOTE=Van-man;50687575]I'm more than well aware of that, but usually the expensive chargers required for multi-cell lithium packs are enough to turn people away from projects.[/QUOTE]
20$ for a chinese copy of a IMAX B6 and 25$ for a genuine. That's expensive?! The LIPO batteries are more expensive than that when going for 5,000+ mAh.
There are literally sooooo many chargers you can get as hammydowns from RC Car and RC Plane people that might just give you a charger when you tell what your doing for a project.
[QUOTE=DPKiller;50688047]20$ for a chinese copy of a IMAX B6 and 25$ for a genuine. That's expensive?! The LIPO batteries are more expensive than that when going for 5,000+ mAh.
There are literally sooooo many chargers you can get as hammydowns from RC Car and RC Plane people that might just give you a charger when you tell what your doing for a project.[/QUOTE]
I can safely say that they cost a lot more in this region of this world.
[QUOTE=Van-man;50690378]I can safely say that they cost a lot more in this region of this world.[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__78386__Turnigy_Accucell_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_LiHV_Capable_EU_Warehouse_.html[/url]
I accidentally left a radio control car transmitter on and drained 8 AA NiMH batteries down to about 50mV a piece....I only got to use them like once. :cry:
I'm assuming there's no way to save them after that.
It doesn't hurt to try trickle charging them. They aren't Lithium.
[QUOTE=gjsdeath;50685348]With a pot you're wasting battery life as heat when dimming the LEDs.
Also, never heard of A23s until you mentioned them. They only provide around 55mAh... and they're actually just a bunch of tiny batteries in series.
[T]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bc/A23-open-closed.jpg[/t]
You're not going to get any meaningful amount of battery life from these. You'd be better off with a bigger battery holder for some rechargeable batteries. I don't recommend li-ions or Li-Po unless you want to add a BMS, although they are really good batteries in terms of battery capacity per weight.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I chose these a23s because theyre cheap as shit.
How can I dim the lights without losing battery life?
And as you have probably guessed, I'm an amateur at this stuff at best. I'm pretty sure none of my components are rated for 12v.
I'm trying to do this stuff without using an arduino. Are there chips which generate sin waves (at different frequencies) so that I could create patterns of different colors by dimming each color channel?
[editline]12th July 2016[/editline]
Also thanks everybody for the advice! I was looking at lithium ion batteries but they all seem so expensive, and I heard they're dangerous too. Not sure if I'd want to put one on a skateboard which gets thrown around a lot
[QUOTE=proboardslol;50696133]Yeah, I chose these a23s because theyre cheap as shit.
How can I dim the lights without losing battery life?
And as you have probably guessed, I'm an amateur at this stuff at best. I'm pretty sure none of my components are rated for 12v.
I'm trying to do this stuff without using an arduino. Are there chips which generate sin waves (at different frequencies) so that I could create patterns of different colors by dimming each color channel?
[editline]12th July 2016[/editline]
Also thanks everybody for the advice! I was looking at lithium ion batteries but they all seem so expensive, and I heard they're dangerous too. Not sure if I'd want to put one on a skateboard which gets thrown around a lot[/QUOTE]
Look up on ebay. There's tons of pwm power control circuits. Look up led pwm controllers they can be cheap as dirt.
By using PWM. You are turning the LEDs off and on thousands of times a second ( typically ). Since they are off part of the time, they appear dimmer and are using power less of the time. You dont need an arduino for this. Many sellers sell small circuits with attached pots that do all the work for you.
Find one with adjustable frequency and you could make them flash/strobe.
[QUOTE=proboardslol;50696133]Yeah, I chose these a23s because theyre cheap as shit.
How can I dim the lights without losing battery life?
And as you have probably guessed, I'm an amateur at this stuff at best. I'm pretty sure none of my components are rated for 12v.
I'm trying to do this stuff without using an arduino. Are there chips which generate sin waves (at different frequencies) so that I could create patterns of different colors by dimming each color channel?
[editline]12th July 2016[/editline]
Also thanks everybody for the advice! I was looking at lithium ion batteries but they all seem so expensive, and I heard they're dangerous too. Not sure if I'd want to put one on a skateboard which gets thrown around a lot[/QUOTE]
Dimming is typically done by Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) which involves changing the ratio (duty cycle) of the on and off time of a square wave,
this is done at a high frequency so there is no visible flicker in the light output, an arduino can [url=https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/PWM]easily do this[/url].
You'd need a transistor as well since each pin can only sink so much current.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/TossF9t.png[/img]
Lithium ion batteries are quite robust, it's lithium polymer that have a tendancy to burst in to flames, 18650 are the most common and can be had
reasonably cheap, or for free if you have a laptop battery pack laying around.
Something like a 2N7000 will probably do the job or any other N channel MOSFET, you can also use BJTs but they require a base resistor as well (typically around 1k)
If you don't mind it taking forever to get here:
[url]http://m.ebay.com/itm/44-key-IR-Remote-Controller-For-RGB-5050-3528-Led-Light-Strip-/190851582109?nav=SEARCH[/url]
If you buy any sort of controller. Make sure it's for your RGB LED type, ie common anode or cathode.
[QUOTE=gjsdeath;50696608]If you don't mind it taking forever to get here:
[url]http://m.ebay.com/itm/44-key-IR-Remote-Controller-For-RGB-5050-3528-Led-Light-Strip-/190851582109?nav=SEARCH[/url]
If you buy any sort of controller. Make sure it's for your RGB LED type, ie common anode or cathode.[/QUOTE]
Eh, the modes on them are quite crappy and unappealing in my opinion.
[QUOTE=DrDevil;50696627]Eh, the modes on them are quite crappy and unappealing in my opinion.[/QUOTE]
Oh? I have a similar kind for tue RGB strip in my room with less features. But there are probably much better ones out there. Plus making your own would be best.
[QUOTE=gjsdeath;50697091]Oh? I have a similar kind for tue RGB strip in my room with less features. But there are probably much better ones out there. Plus making your own would be best.[/QUOTE]
I use DMX LED controller like this one: [url]http://www.ebay.de/itm/Mini-3-Kanal-DMX512-Decoder-15A-RGB-Controller-LED-Stage-lighting-Driver-Regler-/131672700946?hash=item1ea84df812:g:4lQAAOSwgyxWWnHd[/url]
They're quite nice, but you need a rs485 transceiver to get dmx signals (they're quite cheap aswell)
Look what a certain person just got~ £200 + shipping! <3
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191895547936?ul_noapp=true[/url]
It's getting delivered to work, I'll try to record the teardown possibly, Let's see how it goes.
Not even sure where to put this, but this is the closest thread I can think of. I got a E-bike kit and it's all well and good, but I'm a total noob at wiring stuff. So, I'm wondering if anyone can help with that I need such as good wire connectors.
Controller: The Red(+) and Black(-) wires are the connectors for the battery.
[img]http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h53/Sodisna/Controller.png[/img]
The battery
[img]http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h53/Sodisna/Battery36v.png[/img]
Red and blue charger wires. I'm going to assume the black and blue goes together(?)
[img]http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h53/Sodisna/Charger_Wires.png[/img]
Connectors I have.
[img]http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h53/Sodisna/ConDics.png[/img]
Didn't the kit come with instructions?
Just where the connections are made with the control. The battery was purchased separately. Just came with the a warranty paper with instructions on how to manage the battery. Like don't over-charge, don't store in hot areas, etc.
I sense a fire in your future. Make absolutely sure you are charging the battery correctly and not just slapping some random power brick onto it that happens to match the voltage. It looks like it is a LFP which is safer than a LiPo (which will explode if you glance at it funny) but still use caution when charging it.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_5270.jpg[/IMG]
This only means good things. :dance:
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Electrical Engineering V3
