Electrical Engineering V3 - Developers

[QUOTE=proboardslol;51157051]Theoretical here: Could you use a gameboy color as a microcontroller? The GBC has an IR sensor and emitter, as well as a data cable. You can use sdcc to make gameboy color roms, and you can put those roms on a flash cart. I assume that you should be able to use the gbc data cable to control low-voltage stuff[/QUOTE] Have fun: [url]http://www.loirak.com/gameboy/gbprog.php[/url] [url]http://gbdev.gg8.se/wiki/articles/Main_Page[/url] [url]http://gbdev.gg8.se/wiki/articles/Serial_Data_Transfer_(Link_Cable)[/url] [url]http://gbdev.gg8.se/wiki/articles/Serial_Communication_(Link_Cable)_Tutorial[/url] [url]http://gbdev.gg8.se/wiki/articles/CGB_Registers#FF56_-_RP_-_CGB_Mode_Only_-_Infrared_Communications_Port[/url] (short answer: yes) Long answer: it looks like the gameboy communication over the serial cable is done by loading up a register and waiting for an interrupt, on the interrupt it will transmit it with whatever protocol they use. So you have limited control over that. I'm guessing it's just rs232 serial but could

GUYS, my chip has arrived! And it works! :excited: I toke a chip design class earlier this year and our final project was to build flip flops at transistor level using the gates we designed in Cadence. We then combined our cumulative designs together into a chip and we each got our own copy. [video=youtube;1kOS4YKFZyE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kOS4YKFZyE[/video] Have a nice dieshot (600nm feature size @ 5x zoom, ~1.5mm x ~1.5mm die size, mid 90s tech level): [IMG]https://sites.google.com/site/lonewolfscircuits/sitefiles/Overview_5x_0.15.jpg[/IMG] I also tried stitching together a higher quality version [URL="https://sites.google.com/site/lonewolfscircuits/sitefiles/Overview_10x_0.30-STITCH.png"]here[/URL]. And a [URL="https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxsb25ld29sZnNjaXJjdWl0c3xneDo3YTcyMzkwNmQ2OTgwYzdh"]bonding diagram [/URL]if interested.

So someone gave me a pile of solid state relays. Three of them are [url=http://www.opto22.com/site/pr_details.aspx?cid=4&item=240d25-17]240D25-17's[/url] which are rated 250v 25A. They're made by a company called [url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opto_22]Opto 22[/url] These would make my EPO circuit I mentioned earlier a lot easier but I'm cautious. I've seen a lot of the chinese SSR's get cracked open and they're barely rated for 10A. Should I be trusting these for continuous use near their rating?

[QUOTE=pentium;51196150]So someone gave me a pile of solid state relays. Three of them are 240D25-17's which are rated 250v 25A. They're made by a company called [url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opto_22]Opto 22[/url] These would make my EPO circuit I mentioned earlier a lot easier but I'm cautious. I've seen a lot of the chinese SSR's get cracked open and they're barely rated for 10A. Should I be trusting these for continuous use near their rating?[/QUOTE] Well if you have extras then maybe just try ramping up the current load slowly and see if you can approach your required current. [URL="http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-Connecting_IGBTs_in_Parallel-AN-v1.0-en.pdf?fileId=db3a30433f565836013f5cbaba342d37"]Or you could try putting them in parallel.[/URL]

I only have three matched units which is enough for me to do both halves of a 240v phase. The others are either rated for lower switching voltages or current. One's actually branded by Eastman Kodak but gives me some serious BigClive vibes.

I have a question, is the IC here soldered right according to the picture, with the dot to the top, or should it be rotated? [img_thumb]https://photos-1.dropbox.com/t/2/AACcjJ8EhjE3xkhCW-2Lt3upHk_i7hDN3mW1B61APOgOQQ/12/20947622/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/IMG_20161013_110612141.jpg/EP3C2g8YkS8gBygH/8nLRUh0fQ3rxq_yRCfbcbAyQ6kC9UO-vHGRGF7IItLs?size=2048x1536&size_mode=3[/img_thumb] This is the schematic, notice the white thing ontop of the IC? [img]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t8f2LY9wgZk/U8mitI-qG-I/AAAAAAAAIQA/ncGIZESdywg/s1600/MXR+Micro+Amp+with+tone+control2.png[/img]

[QUOTE=Staneh;51196984]I have a question, is the IC here soldered right according to the picture, with the dot to the top, or should it be rotated? [img_thumb]https://photos-1.dropbox.com/t/2/AACcjJ8EhjE3xkhCW-2Lt3upHk_i7hDN3mW1B61APOgOQQ/12/20947622/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/IMG_20161013_110612141.jpg/EP3C2g8YkS8gBygH/8nLRUh0fQ3rxq_yRCfbcbAyQ6kC9UO-vHGRGF7IItLs?size=2048x1536&size_mode=3[/img_thumb] This is the schematic, notice the white thing ontop of the IC? [img]http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t8f2LY9wgZk/U8mitI-qG-I/AAAAAAAAIQA/ncGIZESdywg/s1600/MXR+Micro+Amp+with+tone+control2.png[/img][/QUOTE] Should be rotated to which the dot/pin one should be on the 9V rail. Atleast according to the [URL="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm6134.pdf"]LM6132 datasheet.[/URL]

Is there any 2-in-1 hot-air reflow and "traditional" soldering stations that are cheap without being absolute crap? Been checking out those Chinese 858D hot-air reflow stations on eBay & similar, which seems good enough [URL="http://www.eevblog.com/forum/general-chat/deadly-wiring-fault-atten-858d-hot-air-rework-station"]as long as you do your own QC for eventual whoopsies made during manufacture[/URL], but then I remembered I've been using 3 different fixed-wattage irons with different tips for some time, and I would really like a proper soldering iron station too. Keep in mind I'm looking for something between [URL="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prosumer"]prosumer[/URL] and cheapskate, so not perfect, but rather [I]'good enough'[/I] while being affordable for someone on a very tight budget.

[QUOTE=Van-man;51199074]Is there any 2-in-1 hot-air reflow and "traditional" soldering stations that are cheap without being absolute crap? Been checking out those Chinese 858D hot-air reflow stations on eBay & similar, which seems good enough [URL="http://www.eevblog.com/forum/general-chat/deadly-wiring-fault-atten-858d-hot-air-rework-station"]as long as you do your own QC for eventual whoopsies made during manufacture[/URL], but then I remembered I've been using 3 different fixed-wattage irons with different tips for some time, and I would really like a proper soldering iron station too. Keep in mind I'm looking for something between [URL="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prosumer"]prosumer[/URL] and cheapskate, so not perfect, but rather [I]'good enough'[/I] while being affordable for someone on a very tight budget.[/QUOTE] I'd probably avoid looking at combined stations and look for a dedicated hot air station instead. I'd recommend the Youyue 858D+ because of the microcontroller used (Atmel AVR) inside the thing and the availability of custom firmware for a improved temperature control loop and the removable hot air hand piece. Firmware: [url]http://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/[/url] Station: [url]http://www.banggood.com/YOUYUE-858D-220V-700W-ESD-Soldering-Station-LED-Digital-SMD-Solder-Blowser-p-984174.html[/url]

We have [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Tenma-2110130-2-In-1-Intelligent-Smd-Rework-Station-/261576043439?hash=item3ce725abaf:g:ogYAAOSwEK9T9Dbb"]these Tenma stations[/URL] and they're pretty solid. Don't know if that's in your budget or not though.

Ain't no storm gonna stop me from installing my new toy. [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_6147.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_6186.jpg[/IMG] 26.965-27.407 mhz master race. :cool:

[QUOTE=pentium;51208866]Ain't no storm gonna stop me from installing my new toy. [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_6147.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_6149.jpg[/IMG] 26.965-27.407 mhz master race. :cool:[/QUOTE] Breaker breaker this is big daddy calling goggle boy whats your ten-twenty over.

I got a problem with a (very) simple electronic circuit, but I can't seem to find any information about it anywhere. (perhaps I have, but I can't make the connection.) Complete newbie here, would you guys be able to help? Posted elsewhere as well: [quote]The problem : 10V source, a parallel circuit of r1 - 400Ω and r2 - 400Ω goes in series with a r3 - 200Ω resistor. It would look like this : [URL]http://i.imgur.com/Cqlwim3.png[/URL] I want to find the current of R2. Heres the steps I have taken : 1. Find total current using ohms law. (75mA) 2. Find the total resistance - this is where I have problems. 2a. Find resistance of parallel - (400*400)/(400+400) = 200Ω 2b. Find resistance of series - 200Ω + 200Ω = 400Ω Am I supposed to add the resistance together? Would it matter? 3. Use current divider law - 0.075 * (400/400) ???? This seems wrong, but I have no way of telling. Help! P.S I am extremely new and have no experience with electronic circuits![/quote] It should be simple, and I feel like an idiot, but I just don't get it.

[QUOTE=Te Great Skeeve;51209688]I got a problem with a (very) simple electronic circuit, but I can't seem to find any information about it anywhere. (perhaps I have, but I can't make the connection.) Complete newbie here, would you guys be able to help? Posted elsewhere as well: It should be simple, and I feel like an idiot, but I just don't get it.[/QUOTE] The two 400ohm in parallel would give off 200ohm resistance, which means that you see it as two 200 ohms in series which is 400 ohm in total. V = I*R thus 10 = I*400 which I = 0.025 A or 25mA So the two 400 ohms are splitting it so they each use 12.5mA and the lone 200 ohm one will pass 25mA so you start with the any in parallel as to make them simple resistors in series(Keep it simple basically), and after you get all and any parallels down to what they would do series wise then the rest is much easier and as simple as adding them up And [url]http://i.imgur.com/PeS83Ka.png[/url] is another example which should give around 42.86 if my math is good tonight. Always try to look at the smallest part of the circuit as needed and then keep getting bigger as you break complex parts down to simpler values.

[QUOTE=andreblue;51209795]The two 400ohm in parallel would give off 200ohm resistance, which means that you see it as two 200 ohms in series which is 400 ohm in total. V = I*R thus 10 = I*400 which I = 0.025 A or 25mA So the two 400 ohms are splitting it so they each use 12.5mA and the lone 200 ohm one will pass 25mA so you start with the any in parallel as to make them simple resistors in series(Keep it simple basically), and after you get all and any parallels down to what they would do series wise then the rest is much easier and as simple as adding them up And [url]http://i.imgur.com/PeS83Ka.png[/url] is another example which should give around 42.86 if my math is good tonight. Always try to look at the smallest part of the circuit as needed and then keep getting bigger as you break complex parts down to simpler values.[/QUOTE] So tl;dr, I did them in the wrong order!! Thank you!!

Trying to turn a projector into a telecine super 8 film scanner, do you guys know an sites or likes I can use for advice? I basically just need a stepper motor to advance one frame of film and some how adapter to projector to LED instead of the halogen down bulb it uses.

[QUOTE=RoboChimp;51210115]Trying to turn a projector into a telecine super 8 film scanner, do you guys know an sites or likes I can use for advice? I basically just need a stepper motor to advance one frame of film and some how adapter to projector to LED instead of the halogen down bulb it uses.[/QUOTE] Well the stepper part isn't hard and for the LED you got yourself a mountain of those 100W LED modules. [img]https://cdn.instructables.com/FPT/40TH/HNT43A5D/FPT40THHNT43A5D.MEDIUM.jpg[/img]

[QUOTE=Cakebatyr;51209048]Breaker breaker this is big daddy calling goggle boy whats your ten-twenty over.[/QUOTE] I totally forgot just what a shitshow channel 6 was. :v: Also, I've made a terrible error. The broadcast power of this antenna and its positioning 1 meter away from the antenna for the FM radio means that whenever I broadcast it totally overlaps the FM reception.

[QUOTE=pentium;51211912]Well the stepper part isn't hard and for the LED you got yourself a mountain of those 100W LED modules. [img]https://cdn.instructables.com/FPT/40TH/HNT43A5D/FPT40THHNT43A5D.MEDIUM.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]Well I have ordered 10 watt 2000 lumen flood lamp that has one of those modules in it.

Why didn't you just buy the bare LED, lens and inverter? Now you gotta rip the lamp apart to get at the exact same parts.

[QUOTE=pentium;51214315]Why didn't you just buy the bare LED, lens and inverter? Now you gotta rip the lamp apart to get at the exact same parts.[/QUOTE]Well I kept searching and couldn't get the right key words to get that specific arrangement of LEDs.

Could someone for the sake of robochimp please post the hand-drawn comic about microcontrollers and drivers?

Just finished my pedal board, what is the easiest and best way to cut this without breaking everything off in little pieces? (veroboard/stripboard) [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/KZE2XRy.jpg[/img_thumb] Updated image

The picture broke, can you rehost?

[QUOTE=Staneh;51226857]Just finished my pedal board, what is the easiest and best way to cut this without breaking everything off in little pieces? (veroboard/stripboard)[/QUOTE] Dropbox doesn't like being a Image Host anymore, but I'd say cut a deep groove on both sides where you want to separate it, and then break it over a sharp table edge. Ideally with something heavy and also with a sharp edge ontop of it that lines up with the table edge.

[QUOTE=Staneh;51226857]Just finished my pedal board, what is the easiest and best way to cut this without breaking everything off in little pieces? (veroboard/stripboard) [img_thumb]https://photos-6.dropbox.com/t/2/AAAub2c4pves3VefgxP_ZK8Xe5LYt631rvmmHDy8sRO7xQ/12/20947622/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/IMG_20161019_173747269.jpg/EP3C2g8Yni8gBygH/T-HXUbWPNPG2_MOZIXR7iPU55T8FkwlhvMb39QgHY0s?size=2048x1536&size_mode=3[/img_thumb][/QUOTE] A small boltcutter is also a great tool to divide strip boards. Just cut along the holes and the bolt cutter will seperate the whole board in one action. [IMG]http://images.builderdepot.com/bahcotools/prodimg/4559-30.jpg[/IMG]

Anybody got any suggestions/recommendations for a super accurate (~1ppm) arbitrary function generator? Price isn't an issue (but don't get carried away, let's say less than 2k ideally).

[QUOTE=Staneh;51226857]Just finished my pedal board, what is the easiest and best way to cut this without breaking everything off in little pieces? (veroboard/stripboard) [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/KZE2XRy.jpg[/img_thumb] Updated image[/QUOTE] Gotta love that physically tight packing.

[QUOTE=Staneh;51226857]Just finished my pedal board, what is the easiest and best way to cut this without breaking everything off in little pieces? (veroboard/stripboard) [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/KZE2XRy.jpg[/img_thumb] Updated image[/QUOTE] Scoring with utility knife and then snapping it usually works.

[QUOTE=aydin690;51236478]Anybody got any suggestions/recommendations for a super accurate (~1ppm) arbitrary function generator? Price isn't an issue (but don't get carried away, let's say less than 2k ideally).[/QUOTE] HP or Agilent stuff will be great coupled with an external 10Mhz reference. At the club we've got a GPS 10M reference but you could also find an OCXO that'll do the job as well. Just do an ebay search for "HP Arbitrary Function" and you should get some good hits.