[QUOTE=Zero-Point;52219629]You like hacky stuff, just get a laser printer and do the toner-transfer method.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, or just perf board it with a couple of DIP sockets, headers and wire.
I was gonna say that I could assemble my own adapters but I didn't have the schematics.
Then I realized I did. :v:
I can do it by hand but it's going to be a pain in the ass to keep the wiring organized. They are small enough I don't think it will hurt to have a couple boards fabbed.
Does anyone know where I could find an isolated power supply with multiple taps? Say something like -,C,+ per rail where you can control voltage between - and C, and between C and +. It'd be really useful for testings some IGBTs.
Get a lab supply with 2 outputs. Make sure the output is floating though.
I haven't killed myself yet!
[t]https://dl2.pushbulletusercontent.com/Oy1wBsIKlo5vyuOIwhr5xjAPQVdkGrZJ/Snapchat-1665319981.jpg[/t]
Now just for mounting this on my chair in a secure way
You use heatshrink on the low voltage side, but not on the mains side? smh.
[QUOTE=LoneWolf_Recon;52235708]You use heatshrink on the low voltage side, but not on the mains side? smh.[/QUOTE]
Seems he's only using it for notating negative.
Don't forget to strain relief the mains cable or it will eventually fall off and give you a surprise :v:
If you're leaving it exposed slap some tape over the primary side.
[QUOTE=nuttyboffin;52235716]Seems he's only using it for notating negative.[/QUOTE]
You are all wrong!
I only used a bit of isolation tape where a few of the small copper wires were dangerously close to shorting to one of the other wires because I couldn't be bothered to twist them properly :v:
[editline]16th May 2017[/editline]
[QUOTE=Chryseus;52235740]Don't forget to strain relief the mains cable or it will eventually fall off and give you a surprise :v:
If you're leaving it exposed slap some tape over the primary side.[/QUOTE]
Strain relief on anything that isn't handled regularly is a waste
Sheesh, I spent years taking CRTs apart [I]before[/I] I knew they could kill me, and I [I]still[/I] heat-shrink bare conductors on stuff.
Get with the program, Lenny. :science101:
Started my summer internship at the second largest steel mill in the western hemisphere. I'll be working with power distribution and controls for steam boilers and turboblowers in a plant that's been in continuous operation since the 1800's. :excited:
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;52237673]Sheesh, I spent years taking CRTs apart [I]before[/I] I knew they could kill me, and I [I]still[/I] heat-shrink bare conductors on stuff.
Get with the program, Lenny. :science101:[/QUOTE]
Hopefully I will be wise one day too
[QUOTE=LennyPenny;52237765]Hopefully I will be wise one day too[/QUOTE]
It doesn't take much to wisen up. All it takes is that one "...Oh, [I]FUCK[/I]" moment. (thankfully mine was in the form of an episode of The Screen Savers where they said "Oh BTW don't do this you could die k?" and not a surprise jolt from a CRT)
Okay guys you convinced I will order some crappy heatshrinks from ali
So today while working on the backlights of a 32" LCD panel I looked at one of the broken tubes and wondered if I could melt the jagged end with my butane torch. I could. I made a straw once I fed a pipe cleaner through it.
Then I wondered if I could shape tubes that were not already broken. The big issue I assumed was that the vacuum would try and collapse the tube if I got it too hot. I took a bundle of bad tubes home and tried over a propane plumbing torch, then gave it 12000 volts.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/IMG_7872.jpg[/IMG]
Cool, I could make little neon signs.
There are tubes in lcd panels???
Until recently almost all LCD panels were backlit using cold cathode fluorescent tubes. The "LED" in new LED TV's typically refers to using LED's in place of the tubes and high voltage inverters.
[img]http://louisc.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/hanging-3dtv/dynamic/2014-08-21-14.50.08.jpg-nggid03334-ngg0dyn-0x0x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.jpg[/img]
80% of what I do at work is replace worn out tubes. This is why you find those monitors and TV's warning about containing mercury.
[editline]16th May 2017[/editline]
Oh yeah, I'm gonna have to experiment more with this.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a166/ballsandy/New%20Bucket/CGS_7596.jpg[/IMG]
I'm having a lot of fun.
Today we were trying to figure out why one of our conductivity meters wasn't reporting to the system. We go to the water room and it's got no power. We checked for any breakers and couldn't find anything wrong, and the other three meters were working with no issues.
We open up the power supply cabinet and are all drenched with about four inches of water that was soaking in the bottom of the enclosure. The bottom power supply is nicely melted and fused to the terminal block and still steaming. As it turns out waterproof enclosures are equally as great at keeping water [I]in[/I] as they are keeping it out.
[QUOTE=papkee;52250842]Today we were trying to figure out why one of our conductivity meters wasn't reporting to the system. We go to the water room and it's got no power. We checked for any breakers and couldn't find anything wrong, and the other three meters were working with no issues.
We open up the power supply cabinet and are all drenched with about four inches of water that was soaking in the bottom of the enclosure. The bottom power supply is nicely melted and fused to the terminal block and still steaming. As it turns out waterproof enclosures are equally as great at keeping water [I]in[/I] as they are keeping it out.[/QUOTE]
There's a saying that the more water tight you make it, the more hell it will cause.
[QUOTE=papkee;52250842]Today we were trying to figure out why one of our conductivity meters wasn't reporting to the system. We go to the water room and it's got no power. We checked for any breakers and couldn't find anything wrong, and the other three meters were working with no issues.
We open up the power supply cabinet and are all drenched with about four inches of water that was soaking in the bottom of the enclosure. The bottom power supply is nicely melted and fused to the terminal block and still steaming. As it turns out waterproof enclosures are equally as great at keeping water [I]in[/I] as they are keeping it out.[/QUOTE]
What typically happens is as the air inside expands and contracts from heating/cooling, it actually creates a vacuum that can suck water in.
You guys like eye diagrams right?
[t]https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/18596819_1539194066115243_817577321_o.jpg?oh=2adfc371d65358e42edff4378105b0bd&oe=59246F70[/t]
We're making a fibre optic link with an LED and a PIN diode! This is the output of the front end amplifier at 10Mbps.
We're trying to do the clock recovery on an FPGA:
[img]https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/18641222_1541173819250601_882411391_o.png?oh=dc02e57ffb3c0a292b5920b418bbe13c&oe=5924A4B5[/img]
This is just the sim, it's trying to keep clk_out in antiphase with the original clk_bit by shifting the phase when it detects transitions. It's being tested with a 5% clock mismatch
:dance:
You might wanna seal that PIN Diode some more or some better filtering on the front end because that eye diagram is still pretty noisy.
Look what I've run into:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/xItNo40.png[/img]
[QUOTE=Nikita;52261516]Look what I've run into:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/xItNo40.png[/img][/QUOTE]
TBF, prototype with an Arduino and then just transfer the code over to a custom PCB with the same AVR core is a totally legit strat (Provided you use just WinAVR to start with instead of Arduino's library)
[QUOTE=r0b0tsquid;52258960]You guys like eye diagrams right?
[t]https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/18596819_1539194066115243_817577321_o.jpg?oh=2adfc371d65358e42edff4378105b0bd&oe=59246F70[/t]
We're making a fibre optic link with an LED and a PIN diode! This is the output of the front end amplifier at 10Mbps.
We're trying to do the clock recovery on an FPGA:
[img]https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/18641222_1541173819250601_882411391_o.png?oh=dc02e57ffb3c0a292b5920b418bbe13c&oe=5924A4B5[/img]
This is just the sim, it's trying to keep clk_out in antiphase with the original clk_bit by shifting the phase when it detects transitions. It's being tested with a 5% clock mismatch
:dance:[/QUOTE]
Is that altera Quartus?
[QUOTE=DrDevil;52264357]Is that altera Quartus?[/QUOTE]
No, it's a heavily cropped Xilinx ISim!
Spent all of today working on populating the boards for my Rocketry team's payload control and data-logging Shield. First proper PCB I've designed and first time working with a reflow oven and it's almost working perfectly, just one of the sensors needs a re-do. Me and the actual EENG guy working on it are pretty proud of it.
[t]https://vgy.me/sEIQzo.jpg[/t] [t]https://vgy.me/U72pIp.jpg[/t]
Also been fun learning Altium for it :v:
I want to do a basic musicbox with a 4017 IC and 555 IC. I already have the schematic for it, but how do I hardcode a music to play? What song would you guys recommend since the 4017 (decade counter) has 10 outputs, implying on 10 notes only?
[QUOTE=RockyTV;52287952]I want to do a basic musicbox with a 4017 IC and 555 IC. I already have the schematic for it, but how do I hardcode a music to play? What song would you guys recommend since the 4017 (decade counter) has 10 outputs, implying on 10 notes only?[/QUOTE]
Post the schematic, I'd imagine you're trying to do a sort of sequenced drum machine with the 4017 but its a bit vague.
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Electrical Engineering V3
