New to airsoft? Want to know what gun or kit to get? Read this before posting!
307 replies, posted
Field rules take precedence over those rules right?
Those rules are just decency/common sense.
EXCUSE ME AS I [url=http://arairsoft.net/smf/index.php?topic=1803.0]BLATANTLY REPOST SOME INFORMATION FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE[/url]
[b]So you wanna try to open your gearbox?[/b]
Then this information is for you!
NOTE: [url]www.Mechbox.com[/url] and [url]www.Airsoftgi.com[/url] also offer great diagrams and information about gearboxes and AEG maintenance.
- Many of us have had the question and have asked "What should I upgrade First?"
This Guide was created in effort to help new players understand
more about what happens in an Airsoft Gun and what to recognize when
considering upgrading parts.
Follow these guidelines and you'll be aware of how a gearbox and hop up works,
have a better understanding of how to repair your gun, and ultimately
identify how to tailor the gearbox to your needs.
Before I go on, here are some things you MUST realize.
* FPS is Overrated.
* The Fastest Gun isn't always the best gun.
* The Longest Barrel Doesn't mean you'll have the most accurate gun.
* You can spend $500 on a gun and still have it perform worse than someone who spent $30.
*Gearboxes don’t last forever; you will have to eventually replace parts. Especially when Upgrading.
Be Prepared to repair your gearbox.
*DO NOT EXPECT to upgrade a cheap base gun with $300 only to find out it is not cost effective and your Gearbox chassis Cracks.
*Make sure you upgrade with a 100% to 110% Ratio. Head Room of Stronger Gears is even better. (eg.
If your motor/spring is running at 120%, then your gears better be able to handle 130% or better.)
1 - Understand the gearbox Anatomy.
2 - Understand how the gearbox works
3 - Understand the gearbox weaknesses
4 - Understand the Hop Up System
5 - Understand Barrel lengths in relation to Accuracy and Consistency.
UNDERSTANDING THE GEARBOX ANATOMY
Take a look at the Gearbox Anatomy of a Version 2 Gearbox. (Kindly taken from Airsoftgi)
This Gearbox is found in M16, M4, G3, and MP5 Variants. (MP5k features
a modified Version 2 Gearbox.)
Motor – The initial source of Energy that’s transferred to the Gearbox. Torque and High speed are two of the performance types that we see on the market. Many players often settle for EG1000 by Tokyo Mauri.
Bevel Gear - This Gear is where the Motor (Pinion Gear) begins to make contact with the rest of the other gears. Underneath of this gear is an “Anti Reversal Latch” (fig. A). The anti reversal latch simply keeps the gears from going backward after every incomplete shot, not having one will risks the gears coming out of sync and damaging most of the moving parts in the gearbox.
Spur Gear – Connection Gear to the Sector Gear.
Sector Gear – Pulls back Piston and Tappet Plate. Sector gears are not completely covered in teeth. When the teeth run out the piston is let go.
Bushings – Bushings are the bearings that keep your gears in place. It is important to have bushings that can take the stress of upgraded parts. If bushings are not strong enough to handle the stress then they will simply fall in and gear teeth will most likely be damaged. However, most AEGs on the market today come with Metal bushings which is all that is required for 99% of upgraded setups out there.
Piston – The Piston Is pulled back by the Sector gear which is held under tension of the
Spring. The Job of the piston is to basically create an air gap, compress, and force out the air through the
Cylinder Head. There is a vast array of Pistons made from Aluminum to Polycarbonate. Different materials offer
more durability. Stock Pistons are usually plastic.
Piston Head – Basically seals the air gap (With a Rubber O Ring that is around the Cylinder) that is created between the Cylinder Head and the Piston Head.
Cylinder – Where the air is compressed.
Spring – This puts the Piston under tension. The Higher the Percentage the faster/Stronger the piston will fly forward creating more air that escapes out of the Cylinder Head. A Brute force solution to achieve higher FPS, but in turn you get lower Rate of Fire.
Spring Guide – When the piston is pulled back the Spring coils up. The Spring Guide keeps the spring
nice and straight.
Air Nozzle – Is pulled back by the Tappet Plate (fig. B) which allows the next BB to "Chamber" into the Hop Up system.
Hop up – The Hop up Unit is what produces Spin on the BB; creating range. See below
"How a hop up system works" for details.
Figure A - Anti Reversal Latch
Figure B - Tappet Plate
HOW THE GEARBOX WORKS
Below are general steps of how a gearbox creates air pressure for your gun to fire a BB.
- A Trigger system completes a circuit when pulled.
- The Motor Turns the Pinion Gear (That’s attached to the motor)
- The Pinion Gear Turns the Bevel Gear
- The Bevel Gear Turns the Spur Gear
- The Spur Gear Turns the Sector Gear
- The Sector Gear Pulls back two things.
* The Piston ( which is under tension of the Spring)
** The Tappet Plate which allows the BB to “chamber” into the hopup.
- The Piston Head slides (or shall I say.. Fly.) in the Cylinder creating Air which escapes through the Cylinder Head
MOSFET(metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor)
The Animation above features a MOSFET wiring. MOSFET Transistors can be soldered onto
the external wiring of a gearbox that connects to the Battery. When you release the trigger normally it takes a moment for the inertia of the motor to subside and the motor to come to a stop. Installing a MOSFET stops the motor after you release the trigger and will make sure that after you fire a complete shot in semi, the spring becomes uncompressed.
With a basic wiring system (no MOSFET or capacitor), only pulling the trigger briefly will lead to a half-pulled spring and no shot. You have to make sure and do a full trigger pull to do single shot. With a MOSFET or the right size capacitor, just enough energy gets stored into the device to complete 1 shot- no more, no less.
Contribution by : Ace
The most common upgrade done to many AEGs is the “Spring Upgrade” which is relatively cost effective. Seeing as how the spring only cost a mere $10. In most cases, under the assumption that all other parts are stock; a Spring should not be upgraded past M120.
THINGS TO MAKE SURE WHEN UPGRADING
- Have money set aside for broken parts.
- Have a bigger battery at hand atleast 9.6v or 10.8v.
- Springs will atleast loose around 10% of their Initial power after the first ~1000 Rounds (Guesstimated) (eg. A Spring pushing 450fps will eventually calm down to 410fps.)
** What will start happening on upgraded performance AEG more often is… Once your battery starts running low on a charge it will not pull have enough power to pull the Piston back. Thus, your piston just gets stuck and your spring gets compressed. The only remedy to this is to Open the Box up to relieve the piston and let the spring decompress. It should go something like this...(Unscrew gearbox; slightly open…POP!) Make sure to have a screw holding the spring guide down when you open the gearbox.
This is usually the case when the Gun does not to seem to be firing, you hear/feel the motor torque and you know the battery is fully charged and nothing.
You can have the strongest gears pistons and strongest matching spring. But what good is that if you do not have a gearbox that can handle all that tension?
Reinforced gearboxes are the answer to that. Stock Gearbox’s WILL crack under extreme tension.
UNDERSTANDING THE HOP UP SYSTEM
How is the spin created?
- Inside is a piece of Rubber (the Bucking) which one side (Usually the top) is pressed down
to create a drag on the top of the BB. Thus Creating Spin. When the Hop Up is turned down or
off; very little or no drag is applied to the BB.
The More you set your Hop Up “Up”, the More top drag will be applied to the BB and it will fly up.
Setting the Hop up means finding that spot where its just enough drag to spin the BB with the most range and true straight flight.
UNDERSTANDING THE BARREL LENGTH IN RELATION TO ACCURACY.
*Check your hop up first before considering a Barrel upgrade. Perhaps you havn't set it or the unit needs to be rebuilt.
*Some say past 509mm is negligible as far as accuracy goes.
*Do not Expect to turn a 100mm Barrel AEG into a Sniper weapon and to fire more than 320fps.
*Longer Barrels do give you more FPS. Past ~534mm you will need a Longer Cylinder Head to compensate for the longer barrel. (ie SR-25)
*Precision Barrels do offer more FPS. Keep these Clean the smallest obstruction could jam your AEG. The reason why they are precision is because they are smaller and there is less space for the BB to move around in the barrel.
*Try any barrel combination with your AEG. Finding the best length and bore to match your gearbox is and needs can be difficult.
For more information about Accuracy and Precision Barrels, Read SABOT’s test.
I'm sure most of you have asked yourself Do tight-bore barrels, add FPS, increase range, produce tighter groupings than a stock barrel?
Well, recently I conducted a test to determine just that, and the answer is yes.
I hope these Tips offered some enlightenment to anyone who is considering doing their first upgrade.
format editing by DarkSamus
foos i wanna smell your dick i love u
So now I know.
My thread about mother fucking noob faggots belongs in a ~joint ops~ thread.
Once I finish up my damn research paper for English and start my winter break I can attempt to write up a non biased starters guide. Going to be about 2 weeks or so until then.
[editline]23rd December 2010[/editline]
do NOT FORGET to order here ok
remember in the UK there are regulations on the length of the weapon as well
any ideas on how to get these items imported to australia (where it is banned)
[QUOTE=dude2193;26926160]any ideas on how to get these items imported to australia (where it is banned)[/QUOTE]
Get some freind to recieve them and then ship them to you? costly but the only real way I can think of.
not that good an idea if they are banned...
[QUOTE=Jamesness2;26926148]remember in the UK there are regulations on the length of the weapon as well[/QUOTE]
What, really? I haven't heard this before, what are the limits?
[QUOTE=venom;26926251]What, really? I haven't heard this before, what are the limits?[/QUOTE]
[quote]Unrealistic imitation firearms (IF's) must be more than 50% bright red, bright orange, bright yellow, bright blue, bright green, bright pink or bright purple or have dimensions of no more than a height of 38 millimetres and a length of 70 millimetres (as defined in the Home Office regulations for the VCRA)[/quote]
[editline]24th December 2010[/editline]
although if you are a liscensed skirmisher I don't think that applies
Wait what, 70mm? The barrel alone on my AKM is 400mm..
I know it's awfull :v: If you are worried consider liscensing yourselff as a skirmisher.
Requirments are going airsoft skirmishing at least 2, 3 times two months
Are you sure it's not 700mm for the length of the gun? I can't think of any gun that's below 70mm. Hell, now that I think about it, even just the barrel on my 226 is about 110mm or so.
Luckily I don't even live in the UK, so I don't have to deal with this shit, haha.
Damn! I think it probably refers to pistols. I'll look into it further as I am thinking of getting into airsoft
For all UK skirmishers I don't think the length rules apply. As long as everything is seperate and hidden in a case of some kind or similiar container, hidden from the public until you get to a registered game site it's ok.
There is alaw about force It is a bout 1.3 joules(?) Which most airsoft weapons (unmodified) Do not come near.
Two tone colours will negate the realistic immitation firearm laws. (don't forget [B]un[/b]realistic immitation firearm laws
I think it's saying that it has to be either two-toned, [I]or[/I] of that length. And since there isn't any sort of gun that measures shorter than 70mm, you pretty much have to two-tone.
I don't mind two tone tbh. Won't give away in most cases
[QUOTE=Jamesness2;26937977]I don't mind two tone tbh. Won't give away in most cases[/QUOTE]
Sounds easy enough to get registered anyway.
I don't plan on using realistic immitation firearms and I don't see the need to carry airsoft in public :v:
Pah the laws here are ok when you look into it thouroughtly
you guys have it better then Canada at least. us Canadian airsofters need to get our shit together and do something about our terrible laws.
or move to the usa
[QUOTE=Stupideye;26945425]you guys have it better then Canada at least. us Canadian airsofters need to get our shit together and do something about our terrible laws.[/QUOTE]
Kill all soccer moms and liberals. Problem solved.
How's this for a first gun? 300-310 fps and fairly cheap at £114.
How's this for a first gun? 300-310 fps and fairly cheap at £114.[/QUOTE]
Not bad, but you can get lots better for the money.
[QUOTE=FPKawaii;27962834]Not bad, but you can get lots better for the money.[/QUOTE]
I'm looking for an assault rifle, just as like a start. I'm not buying kit or anything yet so the only games I'd play would be with friends for now. Also, something that comes bundled with a red dot/cross sight would be nice as I can't aim for shit
[QUOTE=geogzm;27970889]I'm looking for an assault rifle, just as like a start. I'm not buying kit or anything yet so the only games I'd play would be with friends for now. Also, something that comes bundled with a red dot/cross sight would be nice as I can't aim for shit[/QUOTE]
Ironsights will always serve you better a hundred and ten percent of the time, especially if youre new.
also I would just shoot as high as you can, fuck settling for less.
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