Hmm... today I've been doing some basic maintenance checks on my car. Washed it, checked the air filters, oil level etc etc. But when i removed the oil filler cap i saw this... stuff...
Is that something just applied by a previous mechanic to protect the seal or something? Or maybe part of the oil that has seperated over time? I know one thing, if i was getting discharge of that colour out of my orifice, i wouldn't keep it to myself.
[QUOTE=ThermalArc;34358104]my r154 require some heavy ass oil (90W). Don't know how you guys manage to make them trannys survive with light oil like 30w[/QUOTE]
It's not that we "make them survive" with 30 weight oil, it is [i]required[/i]. The way the transmission is designed it moves freely and easily, with lightweight components that require little lubrication. In fact, a D/B series tranny would work better with baby oil run in them than 90 weight gear oil. It's just the design.
That's another reason I don't like running those "oil stabilizers" in my engines. Sure, it might make the oil cling to components better, but that's not always a good thing if you have a component trying to fail or simply breaking in. Shavings from a bearing wearing in (sometimes microscopic) getting caught between a rod/main bearing and journal can basically act like a sheet of sandpaper being stuck in there -- a very bad thing.
That's why I shake my head at people who slap motors together and then dump a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in there. Sigh. I've seen this alot around my local racetrack. Hillbilly mechanics with more faith in a product than brains.
Anyways, I'm rambling.
[editline]23rd January 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=Adamhully;34358195]Hmm... today I've been doing some basic maintenance checks on my car. Washed it, checked the air filters, oil level etc etc. But when i removed the oil filler cap i saw this... stuff...
Is that something just applied by a previous mechanic to protect the seal or something? Or maybe part of the oil that has seperated over time? I know one thing, if i was getting discharge of that colour out of my orifice, i wouldn't keep it to myself.[/QUOTE]
Looks like someone might have a blown head gasket C:
Been looking around on the internet, quite a few people saying most of the time it's condensation, because the oil is clear on the dipstick. I'm gonna clean it all off tomorrow (Wasn't sure what it was so i left it alone), go for a drive and see if it returns. If it does, off to a garage...
[editline]23rd January 2012[/editline]
"It can get like this even if there is nothing basically wrong with the
engine if you don't drive it hard enough. If the engine never really warms
up (a lot of short runs) or you drive it too gently, water builds up in the
oil and you get this mayonnaise.
Best thing is to blast the car for ten miles or so to really warm it up and
evaporate the water out of the oil. Do this every so often, depending.
Gentle driving is bad for modern engines - strange but true.
Of course, you may actually have a blown gasket!"
Found that, actually makes sense, all I've been doing is making 10 minutes trips to University so the engine hasn't really heated up properly, the other day though i drove about 30 miles going about 60-70 most of the time and now suddenly i have it. Hmm.
I get that shit in my intercooler/valve covers/pcv whenever it's cold out. Since getting an air/oil separator it doesn't really do it anymore.
I'm hoping it's just that. I already need to take my car in to get it's CV joints looked at.
One more thing, is it okay to take the oil cap off a hot engine? I know if you try it with coolant you'll get your face melted off. I've heard of things like 'oil pressure' so i imagine not.
you should do that
my mayo evaporates into regular oil once it warms up
100% safe to take oil cap off hot engine -- NOT while running. There's a difference between "oil pressure" and "taking the oil cap off of the valve cover/crankcase" since oil pressure is only through the pump mostly. After that it's in little gulley things that aren't exposed. Your oil cap has nothing to actually do with the oil system. Hell, even the disptick (to check the fluid) doesn't. It just happens to poke down in the oil pan. Your oil pan doesn't even have "oil pressure" in it. Haha.
And the rad cap/coolan cap can't be removed because there is around 12-16 PSI on it at all times with hot coolant backing it -- the coolant system doesn't contain air so this could lead to a dangerous explosion of coolant all over the place.
Also, that much mayo -- You have a blown head gasket. The only other way I could see there being that much of it and not a blown head gasket is if you've left the oil cap off on a few mornings with a lot of condensation about.
Pull the oil dipstick -- is it also milky in any spot at all? Head gasket blown.
Ecotec engines are p bad about it too. I've seen more popped head gaskets on ecotecs than I have on D series honda engines, which are supposed to be known for blowing head gaskets.
Oh good thanks. Yeah when i checked the oil level the oil on the dipstick is totally clear, a little dark but that happens, no idea when it was last changed as i've only had the car about 7 months. I'll have it changed soon anyway.
My coolant level has pretty much been exactly the same since i checked it 3 months ago too, i remember because it was lined up perfectly with the center groove of the bottle. Only thing i can think of is that moisture has been in the oil even before i bought the car, and has only just had a chance to evaporate because of the 1 long journey i did. The rest, as i said were just 10 minute trips. Eeeh guess i'll find out tomorrow. They're small engines, guess people are pretty hard on them most of the time.
do a leakdown test on the cooling system
How does transmission fluid get dirty anyways? I always figured motor oil gets dirty from carbon and stuff on the cylinder walls. Does the sheer friction just break it down over time?
ATF gets burnt when the wet clutches slip (They're supposed to, it's part of the wet clutch design), but it gets REALLY burnt when the slip excessively. Friction between innards of the tranny also burn it up quite a bit.
MTF gets dirty because of heat/friction too, and just general bits of gear that wear off and decide to float about in the fluid (I'm not talking chips/chunks, I mean specks, most of the time invisible to the naked eye).
Friction and heat from operation does break down transmission fluid over time, which is why you really need to change the fluid at regular maintenance intervals, and with the automatic transmission you should also replace the filter. I've been inside a 727 Torqueflite that hadn't been serviced in 150,000 miles, and that was [i]awful[/i]. There was buildup EVERYWHERE and what looked like [i]dirt[/i] on the filter. Definitely need to do it more often than that. A lot of manufacturers used to reccomend it at 100k but I'd do it every 60k. Then again I also do timing belts every 60k, which is early for a lot of manufacturers, I just like the assurance that it's going to last.
[QUOTE=bradley;34351865]I don't know why you waste money on Honda MTF. It's 30 weight motor oil in a fancy bottle. Haha.
I've always ran 5w30 in my trannies, 10w30 in summer. It only takes two quarts and the brand doesn't matter, it's all the same stuff (I wouldn't run cheaper shit in my engine, but that's just because the engine has more fine areas than the tranny. It's just an open box with gears everywhere).
$5 of wal-mart oil is enough to change your tranny fluid. Get like, 2 feet of hose. One foot is... Still a bit of a hassle. Depends on the bay layout really.
Motor oil won't hurt a Honda tranny. The detergents put in motor oil won't hurt those hardened steel gears. Think about it, would you trust Honda's MTF tranny oil in your rod bearings? They take on much more wear than the transmission gears and they certainly aren't nearly as hardened. If anything Honda MTF is worse than motor oil for lubrication.
Personally I've seen far more people use 5w30, and I've never seen the choice in fluid make much difference.
I have seen some dumb shits use syncromesh gear oil though, or regular gear oil, which is TOO HEAVY.[/QUOTE]
I got curious when I changed my transmission fluid again today, motor oils are slippery where as Honda's MTF is not so much. The Redline MTF which was in the transmission after 18k miles was almost grippy where as the Honda MTF slides between your fingers but still catches significantly. Motor oil just lubricates the hell out of them.
When I researched a while back what people had been putting in their transmissions it was said that your syncros work better with a little bit of friction additives to the oil. It was said that less syncro wear is produced as a result of this as well as better shift quality. It was also said that when the transmission heats up, for instance in track conditions more friction is desired for as in these conditions it would not be as hard on the syncros as it would be if the lubricant had less friction which is where Redline should only be used.
It is also said that higher levels friction additives are also desired with some LSD differentials as motor oil or possibly Honda MTF would not offer enough to prevent undesired wear or proper functioning of it. Instead of using Redline here some people just add friction additives. I'm not really knowledgeable in the LSD's which can be put in honda transmissions but it kinda makes sense.
The only diff upgrade I'd ever run is a locker in a Honda tranny. LSDs are garbage for D/B series applications, not enough torque to make a lot of difference there.
Honda MTF is just too thin and watery feeling for the entire tranny IMO. I don't like it. I use 5w30 because it's thick enough to be "slippery" (Like you put it) but thin enough to still allow some friction, 10w30 is slightly thicker but in the heat of summer allows for a little more protection.
*shrug*, it also depends on the oil you use. I've seen a lot of guys running their Hondas on the track, using Royal Purple 5w20 in their gearboxes and half a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer (You know, that shit I ranted about -- I wouldn't run it in an engine but tranny would seem fine I guess).
Personally I've used 5w30 in every Honda tranny I've owned, replacing the original MTF that was in them, and they all felt far better after 5w30 than before. The CRX I'm driving right now is the roughest feeling of all the trannies I've had and it's got Honda MTF in it. Doesn't grind, but sure as shit is hard to get into gear sometimes, especially at low speeds (under 5mph or stopped) where it usually is to begin with. With 5w30 in them it feels like they just slip into gear, I'm certain it's the extra lubrication that motor oil gives.
Well, rolled my bimmer this morning. I was right about the merge onto the freeway on my way to work. I'm in the main lane, and this Spyder Eclipse rolls up next to me in the carpool lane. I notice them looking at me and smiling, so I ignore them because I'm not in the mood for any fast/furious bullshit first thing in the morning. Instead I stare to my right at the light, and when it turns green I look back and start to go. He was waiting for me! He starts creeping along, since he's supposed to be merging first. I look to my left briefly to check for oncoming traffic before we start merging. I look back, and he's less than a foot in front of me with his brakes on. I swerve quickly to the left to avoid him, lost control. I managed to start to correct the car, but I need new rear tires so I was quickly going sideways again. T-boned the dude in the Eclipse, then went right off the side of the freeway, into a ditch, and rolled once.
Never in my life have I felt such an intense rush of adrenaline. I look down, see that I'm okay, and leap out of the car. I immediately start hauling ass towards the Eclipse, which was now pulled over a little ways down the freeway. A large black guy and a white guy come bailing out of it, and unfortunately, were pissed as fuck. The black guy wanted to fight, but I managed to chill both of them out. Never thought I'd roll a car...
Crazy, man. Hope everyone turned out alright, just glad to know you're alive. I always thought your bimmer was a little weird but cool.
[QUOTE=bradley;34388404]Crazy, man. Hope everyone turned out alright, just glad to know you're alive. I always thought your bimmer was a little weird but cool.
Thanks man, I'm glad too. I spent the whole day yesterday scrambling around getting everything done. My first step was to take a trip to the doc; I felt fine, but I still figured it'd be good to get a quick checkup after flipping the car. After that, I located the car at the towing yard my car had been hauled of to. I was pretty surprised, for a car that had rolled it didn't look too terrible.
The guys at the towing yard told me I could take whatever I could without tools, so I started yanking anything from the car that I could. I took the ECU (it's chipped, so it's worth a pretty penny), MAF, AFE intake, any part of the sound system that wasn't bolted down. Even the ///m floor mats that were in the car. Stuffed the back of my girlfriend's car full and drove off. I owed the towing company $465; $210 for the tow, $210 because they had to use a winch to pull the car out of the ditch, and $45 for that day's storage. They told me that everyday it sat I'd owe them another $45, so I sold the car to someone on craigslist for $300 and paid out the difference.
One hell of a hectic day.
That's pretty intense. I'm glad you made it out okay.
What are your plans for a vehicle now? Going to get another bimmer?
Me and Japfeiffer/The Pfeiffenator were in an accident together on April 2nd 2010, he rolled his car on a back road with me in the passenger seat, I've posted pics before:
He went through this ditch:
When he hit these big ol' steel poles we rolled:
this is the morning after, I was out taking pictures with my '85 Nissan Maxima that I had just bought. That was a cool car.
Anyways, good luck getting another ride and such. It's always hard when you lose something like that. Luckily for Jap me and him were working on a Civic Hatch at the time and he just tagged and started driving it.
Jesus man, that looks like one hell of a crash! Much worse than what happened to me. I have around 2k saved, and for once I'm considering just buying a new(er) car. Maybe a Genesis coupe, or a new CR-Z. I've been approved for financing before, I've just been intimidated. But maybe it's time to buy something nice and get more than liability for once.
I'll tell you now, while the CR-Z is a great looking car, it'll be boring compared to your Beemer. Isn't a worthy successor to the CRX.
But then again, I don't know if people will try to race you in that. AVOIDING POSSIBLE FUTURE ROLLOVERS.
[QUOTE=Second-gear-of-mgear;34401091]I'll tell you now, while the CR-Z is a great looking car, it'll be boring compared to your Beemer. Isn't a worthy successor to the CRX.
But then again, I don't know if people will try to race you in that. AVOIDING POSSIBLE FUTURE ROLLOVERS.[/QUOTE]
I never really street race anyone, it's rare for me to go up against people on the street as I don't like risking my car/other people. I like having the power for when it's appropriate; at the track, or when I need to pass someone. In this particular instance I was trying to AVOID racing the stupid Eclipse.
I didn't say that you did, I was saying that people probably wouldn't try to race you.
The Genesis would be nice, CR-Z is cool but not really up to the hype. Would be cool though.
That crash was pretty intense, impact was roughly 60MPH, but neither of us got hurt save for some cuts on Jap's arm from the window busting. I'm glad it busted, that was our only way out. Was pretty crazy though.
[editline]26th January 2012[/editline]
[QUOTE=Second-gear-of-mgear;34401822]I didn't say that you did, I was saying that people probably wouldn't try to race you.[/QUOTE]
People would try to race him in either of those. Probably try to race him more in a bright red CR-Z than a dull silver Genesis.
Fucking right rear lights. Burning fuses like a bitch, Cable hunt tomorrow to sort out the problem.
[QUOTE=4NGRY MUFF1N;34406350]Fucking right rear lights. Burning fuses like a bitch, Cable hunt tomorrow to sort out the problem.[/QUOTE]
fucking right rear indeed, mine keep EXPLODING the bulb, WHY?!?!
I would have to say that those Eclypse fuckers should pay for quite a bit of the damage. Oh well I guess that is how it is. Really do hope that you are okay and that the car is insured so that you can get another good car like that.
Well since I posted that I think that I will post what I did today.
Well I put a new Air Box on my 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan, was a bitch to get on. Though do the hoses that connect to the air box need to be completely pushed all the way in, or could there be a bit of sway in how much is attached and still not have to worry about it, they are not loose if you are wondering.
Related news: I watched a giant dump truck back right into a lil s10 blazer, smash the rear window and dent the door a bit, and then, as if he didn't realize he hit something, proceed to gas it some more and push it over the bump-stop and into a ditch. All i hear from across the street after the truck shuts off is the owner running out screaming his lungs out, looked like he was about to go kick the guys ass until his boss (I'd assume) held him back. Intense shit bro.
Was it funny from your viewpoint?
[QUOTE=justin1992;34409390]Related news: I watched a giant dump truck back right into a lil s10 blazer, smash the rear window and dent the door a bit, and then, as if he didn't realize he hit something, proceed to gas it some more and push it over the bump-stop and into a ditch. All i hear from across the street after the truck shuts off is the owner running out screaming his lungs out, looked like he was about to go kick the guys ass until his boss (I'd assume) held him back. Intense shit bro.[/QUOTE]
I would be devastated if i saw that happen to my car.
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