Need to solder my headset back together, which cables are which?
14 replies, posted
Right, so I managed to tear the cables to my Creative Fatal1ty headset right out of the little doohickey that houses the volume control.
Now I need to solder it back together, and I can't figure out which cable is which. Normally I wouldn't go through all this trouble, but I don't feel like buying a new €50 headset just because of the cable breaking.
This is the PCB:
As you can see there are Left, Right, Mic-, Mic+, and Ground inputs.
The reason there are mutilated wire stumps on it is that I don't have access to a soldering station at the moment, and thus haven't got access to any means of unsoldering either. I'm going to have this done at campus tomorrow.
Incidentally, the soldering work done on this board is freaking horrible, big blobs with wires sticking out that have been cut off after the soldering was done. I think I'll have to redo them all. My OCD demands it.
Here is the cable:
Now, in my experience, the ground is usually the one wrapped around another wire (as the uncoloured one was around the white one before I unwrapped it and twisted it) From this I can conclude that the copper-coloured wire is ground.
Problem is, I don't know the rest. The way I remember it, speaker wires (the ones without connectors) are usually red and white/black, but which one is L/R? And, assuming that's correct, which one of the green and blue wires is + and - on the mic?
You could run a voltage through the headset and see which one makes sound.
Cut the blue one.
OK, so only the mic cables left.
In case you haven't seen the Fatal1ty headset, it's got a disconnectable microphone. I have an old hardly-working headset that I could plug into the 3.5mm plug instead of the mic. If I were to run a current through the wires, is there a way for me to determine which one's + and which one's -? Or should I do it another way?
[qUOTE=Kert97;24466049]Cut the blue one.[/QUOTE]
Oh hardy-har har.
I have the same headset as you
[QUOTE=Kert97;24466049]Cut the blue one.[/QUOTE]
You've doomed us all!
Anyway I'm self taught at soldering and I'm doing an electronics course right now. Usually the raw one (2 twisted together) are the main wires that goto the headset, red and blue are normally left and right and white and green is the volume control spindle.
Red = Right
White = Left
Copper = Ground
Basically that's standard from my experience.
You say the mic is removable? does it connect to the headset itself via 3.5mm or something?
Yeah, that's it.
Never trust color codes for wires. I was building a PS2 gamepad adapter recently so I cut open a playstation controller extension cord. It had wires of all the colors you see inside a normal playstation controller cord, so I wired it up by color. Turns out it was totally wrong. You'd [i]at least[/i] expect black to be ground and red or white to be power, right? Nope. Not even ground/power were colored correctly. I'm pretty sure I did some damage to either the controller or the microcontroller.
If you're taking it to the campus electronics lab, I'm sure they have multimeters. Use the conductivity tester to match the parts of the TRS jack to the individual wires.
So after discovering that the PCB started to melt whenever I came near it with the soldering pen (as in, before the tin melted enough), I decided to just solder the wires together. Looks real neat (not):
The question is, does it work?
You could've picked up some heat-shrink tubing, at least. It's really cheap.
[QUOTE=ROBO_DONUT;24497433]You could've picked up some heat-shrink tubing, at least. It's really cheap.[/QUOTE]
Or at least use proper electrical tape instead of duct tape
There's electrical tape inside the duct tape. I'm not a [I]complete[/I] klutz.
It works just as well as before, thankyouverymuch,
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