• Logitech G35 Issue
    3 replies, posted
So I built a new PC and my G35 is acting up in Windows and while doing things such as playing music. It crackles almost constantly, not extremely loudly but enough to bother me. It worked perfectly on my old PC for almost a year and seems to still work PERFECTLY on my laptop so I know it's something to do with this new computer. I've tried the basics, moving USB ports, moving other USB devices etc and I have no clue what is causing it. I've even tried the USB port on the keyboard to no avail. The crackling persists. I can listen to the same song on both computers, and the other one is fine. It might be a Windows 7 issue too, I can't find out. I've Googled for hours. I read something about an IRQ issue but I doubt it. My laptop where it works fine is running Ubuntu while my main rig runs Windows 7. Anyone ever experienced this issue? It could be a USB headset issue in general from what I've been seeing on forums. Also, in games on the main rig it works JUST FINE. It makes absolutely no sense to me whatsoever. For instance, while on just Skype, it crackles, me and some friends play Starcraft 2 and neither application manages to have crackling audio. It's mind boggling. [editline]14th October 2010[/editline] And if it matters much, I've installed chipset drivers for my motherboard from the manufacturer's website. The motherboard is an EVGA P55 SLi.
Reinstall drivers.
I've reinstalled the chipset drivers, headset drivers, everything. The basic windows USB Audio Drivers do the same damn thing too. Without the fancy drivers, the same problem. [editline]14th October 2010[/editline] [img]http://i52.tinypic.com/n3kmxe.jpg[/img] I've found the USB controller it's using, and it's on it's own with no other USB device on the same IRQ in use. It's only using 15% of the bandwith when in use. This problem is bugging me to no end, I even heard of disabling Intel Speed Step and Power Settings to Max Performance, neither of which worked. [editline]14th October 2010[/editline] I fixed it. I just reset the CMOS, left it unplugged and plugged it in after Windows loaded and now it works perfectly. I don't have a clue what the fuck that was about.
My guess would be that the BIOS defaults have spread spectrum enabled.
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