[IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/HOmeAudio.jpg?t=1358037360[/IMG]
[B]This is a thread for everything home audio related. Speakers, components, headphones, speaker building, computer speakers, live performance equipment, Home Theater equipment, basically anything that is part of the process of making sound waves.
[U]How do speakers work?[/U][/B]
In order to translate an electrical signal into an audible sound, speakers contain an electromagnet: a metal coil which creates a magnetic field when an electric current flows through it. This coil behaves much like a normal (permanent) magnet, with one particularly handy property: reversing the direction of the current in the coil flips the poles of the magnet.
Inside a speaker, an electromagnet is placed in front of a permanent magnet. The permanent magnet is fixed firmly into position whereas the electromagnet is mobile. As pulses of electricity pass through the coil of the electromagnet, the direction of its magnetic field is rapidly changed. This means that it is in turn attracted to and repelled from the permanent magnet, vibrating back and forth.
The electromagnet is attached to a cone made of a flexible material such as paper or plastic which amplifies these vibrations, pumping sound waves into the surrounding air and towards your ears.
The frequency of the vibrations governs the pitch of the sound produced, and their amplitude affects the volume – turn your stereo up high enough and you might even be able to see the diaphragm covering the cone move.
To reproduce all the different frequencies of sound in a piece of music faithfully, top quality speakers typically use different sized cones dedicated to high, medium and low frequencies.
[Physics.org]
[IMG]http://www.aperionaudio.com/images/connect/ae_c2_v4.jpg[/IMG]
[U][B]Common Speaker Terms[/B][/U]
[B]Acoustic suspension[/B] - a sealed or closed box speaker enclosure. Also called a sealed enclosre, or infinate baffle.
[B]Amplifier[/B] - an electrical circuit designed to increase the current, voltage, or power of an applied signal.
[B]Amplitude[/B] - the relative [B]strength[/B] (usually voltage of a signal. Amplitude can be expressed as either a negative
or positive number, depending on the signals being compared.
[B]Audio frequency [/B]- the acoustic spectrum of human hearing, generally regarded to be between 20 Hz and 20
kHz.
[B]Baffle [/B]- a board or other plane surface used to mount a loudspeaker.
[B]Bandwidth [/B]- the range of frequencies covered by a driver or a network (crossover).
[B]Basket [/B]- the metal frame of a speaker.
[B]Bass (low frequencies) [/B]- The low end of the audio frequency spectrum. There is no real frequencies where bass is catagoriezed, but it ranges from approximately below 20 Hz up to 400 Hz or so.
[B]Channel [/B]- the path an audio signal travels through a circuit during playback. At least 2 channels are required
for stereo sound.
[B]Clipping [/B]- (1) a distortion caused by cutting off the peaks of audio signals. Clipping usually occurs in the
amplifier when it's input signal is too high or when the volume control is turned to high and the amplifier
tries to put out too much current and it sends out direct current to the speakers. (2) when playing at loud
volumes, and the cone of the driver "bottoms out" - it cannot move as far as the signal requires it to, it can
produce a noise. If an amplifier or speaker is left operating in this condition, serious damage may occur.
[B]Coloration [/B]- any change in the character of sound that reduces naturalness, such as an overemphasis of
certain tones.
[B]Crossover Frequency [/B]- the frequency at which a driver's is crossed over at - usually when response is down -3dB.
[B]Decibel (dB) [/B]- (1) a logarithmic scale used to denote a change in the relative strength of an electric signal or
acoustic wave.
[B]Distortion [/B]- any undesirable change or error in the reproduction of sound that alters the original signal.
[B]Enclosure [/B]- the box that contains the driver(s).
[B]Equalizer [/B]- electronic device used to boost or attenuate certain frequencies.
[B]Flat Response [/B]- the faithful reproduction of an audio signal; specifically, the variations in output level of less
than 1 dB above or below a median level over the audio spectrum.
[B]Frequency [/B]- the number of waves (or cycles) arriving at or passing a point in one second, expressed in hertz
(Hz).
[B]Frequency Response [/B]- the frequency range to which a system, or any part of it, can respond. Unless a limit of
variation in intensity is stated, this specification is meaningless.
[B]Hertz (Hz)[/B] - a measurement of the frequency of sound vibration. One hertz is equal to one cycle per second.
[B]Horn[/B] - a speaker design using its own funnel shaped conduit to amplify, disperse, or modify the sounds
generated by the internal diaphragm of the speaker.
[B]Impedance[/B] - the opposition of a circuit or speaker to ac current; the combined effect of a speaker's resistance,
inductance, and capacitance that opposes the current fed to it. It is measured in ohms and varies with the
frequency of the signal.
[B]Octave[/B] - a range of tones where the highest tone occurs at twice the frequency of the lowest tone.
[B]Ohm[/B] - a unit of electrical resistance or impedance.
[B]Phase [/B]- Refers to the timing relationship of two or more signals or soundwaves.
[B]Resonance[/B] - the tendency of an object to vibrate most at a particular frequency.
[B]Sound Pressure Level (SPL) [/B]- the loudness of an acoustic wave stated in dB that is proportional to the
logarithm of its intensity.
[B]Sound Stage[/B] - the sound systems ability recreate an imaginary stage.
[B]Surround (suspension)[/B] - the outer suspension of a speaker cone; holds the diaphragm in place but allows it to
move when activated. Usually made of foam or rubber.
[Mike Jefferies]
[B][U]Different Speaker types[/U][/B]
[B]Floorstanding Main Speakers
[/B] [IMG]http://www.instablogsimages.com/images/2007/08/31/palladium-floorstander_48.jpg[/IMG]
[B]Bookshelf Speakers
[/B][IMG]http://www.the-home-cinema-guide.com/image-files/monitor-audio-gs10-bookshelf-speaker.jpg[/IMG]
[B]Subwoofers[/B]
[IMG]http://di1-2.shoppingshadow.com/images/pi/73/98/95/48354032-260x260-0-0_MTX+MTX+Home+Audio+12+150w+POWRD+SUBWFR+w+PSSVE+RA.jpg[/IMG]
[B]Center Channels
[/B]
[IMG]http://www.audioholics.com/education/loudspeaker-basics/center-channel-designs/image[/IMG]
[B]Electrostatic Speakers
[/B][IMG]http://www.blogcdn.com/www.engadget.com/media/2008/04/4-6-08-spire_speaker.jpg[/IMG]
[B]Line Array Speakers
[/B][img_thumb]http://www.frugalhomeav.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/line-array.jpg[/img_thumb]
[B]Computer Speakers
[/B][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Xud8K.jpg[/IMG]
[B]Headphones[/B]
[IMG]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/317gX%2Bq7VRL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/IMG]
[B]
[U]Vintage Audio[/U][/B]
A great way to get into the high-fidelity world of speakers is to start with vintage audio equipment. Vintage speakers and components can be often found for next to nothing from antique, thrift and pawn shops. The technologies used in speakers has not changed much over the last fourty years and that means that a pair of speakers from 1980 are just as competative in the audio quality department as a modern speaker, and more often than not the build quality was higher and there is a higher emphasis on audio quality with older components. Much of the modern speaker world is all about making speakers small, sleek and shiny, which often results in a sacrifice of acoustic characteristics.
[img_thumb]http://www.humanspeakers.com/e/images/epi-magnus-a1200.jpg[/img_thumb]
[B]Here is a quick list of quality vintage speaker brands to keep an eye out for,
Klipsch
Polk Audio
B&W
Paradigm
Ascend Acoustics
KEF
Boston Acoustic
Advent
Epicure (EPI)[/B]
(and many more, just stay away from Sony, Pioneer, Cerwin Vega and obviously cheap speakers. A good way to tell the quality is to feel the weight of the construction and the materials used in the enclosure)
[B]
Suggestions for additions to the list are welcomed.[/B]
[IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/stuyff.jpg?t=1358050576[/IMG]
[B]You are also encouraged to post your personal home audio collection, so quickly go dig out your dads old Sony loudspeakers or that old Pioneer record player and dust them off and call them your own!
I'll start with just one of my speakers.
[/B][IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/EPI.jpg?t=1358050998[/IMG]
They are a set of EPI T/E (Time/Energy) 100 bookshelf loudspeakers. They were manufactered in the 1982-87 era I believe and at the time they were rated the best value for high performance bookshelf speakers. They retailed at the time for $250.00 ($575+ in 2013 money) and have a frequency range of 40 to 20k Hz. Despite needed a new rubber foam surround they are in perfect condition. I paid $2 at goodwill for these speakers. A very good bargin. I look forward to buying the refoaming kit and hearing these in person, they will ultimately either be turned into an EPI center channel to match my EPI A500 mains or be religated to rear surrounds in the same setup.
[b]Update:[b] I have sucessfully refoamed the EPI T/E 100's, they look great and I'll test them as soon as the glue cures.
[img]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/null-13-1.jpg[/img]
[B]Post away, enjoy the thread! [/B]
Just ordered my re-foaming kit for the EPI T/E 100's, I'll make to sure to do a write up on the re-foaming process once the foam arrive.
Also, for anyone in the Tacoma area this could potentially be the deal of the year.
[URL]http://www.shopgoodwill.com/viewItem.asp?ItemID=12217352[/URL]
[img]http://images.shopgoodwill.com/122/1-7-2013/sa241375117-on.jpg[/img]
It's $2,000 worth of beautiful Definitive Technology speakers that you might be able to take for $300. It's local pickup only, it's a fantastic deal.
snip
Those are some top rate bookshelves right there. Interesting choice, when did you purchase them, did you buy them retail or get them elsewhere? What are you using to power those, they look super clean. I think you'd be happy with the performance of the SB1000 in the room you've got.
Right now I'm prepping for my next subwoofer project, I bought the plans last week and I'm very excited to build it.
[img_thumb]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/easy.jpg?t=1357659321[/img_thumb]
It's a 15" Tuba HT, super efficient and about triple the output of a sealed 15". Right now I've got both the Dayton Titanic MKIII 15" and the RSS390-HF 15" driver and while great, they just don't put out enough output for my needs in a sealed enclosure getting given 1000w from a dedicated amp. For this new horned subwoofer I'm going with a Dayton DVC385 15" driver and get my hands on a Behringer Europower 1500 amp. Turns out a local pawnshop has one for $180 that they've had forever, I bet I could get it for $100.
I'll take some pictures of my setup tomorrow.
[QUOTE=Ajacks;39200963]Those are some top rate bookshelves right there. Interesting choice, when did you purchase them, did you buy them retail or get them elsewhere? What are you using to power those, they look super clean. I think you'd be happy with the performance of the SB1000 in the room you've got.
Right now I'm prepping for my next subwoofer project, I bought the plans last week and I'm very excited to build it.
[img_thumb]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/easy.jpg?t=1357659321[/img_thumb]
It's a 15" Tuba HT, super efficient and about triple the output of a sealed 15". Right now I've got both the Dayton Titanic MKIII 15" and the RSS390-HF 15" driver and while great, they just don't put out enough output for my needs in a sealed enclosure getting given 1000w from a dedicated amp. For this new horned subwoofer I'm going with a Dayton DVC385 15" driver and get my hands on a Behringer Europower 1500 amp. Turns out a local pawnshop has one for $180 that they've had forever, I bet I could get it for $100.[/QUOTE]
That's one interesting subwoofer you plan to build there. How on earth is a 15" woofer not putting out enough for your needs? I understand it's in a sealed enclosure and all, but wow..
Thanks for the compliments on the bookshelves. I bought them about a year ago from Ascend Acoustics. Only other option of getting them is through the used market, them being an ID company. The speakers are powered by a technics sa-gx330 with a nuforce air dac used for wireless play from my laptop. My receiver raised some eyebrows from another forum, but I'm not a believer in expensive amplifiers resulting in better sound.
Sweet. Kinda glad someone made a thread like this because I've always wanted to ask around about external speakers.
What do you think of these monitors? [url]http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-B2031A-Powered-Studio-Monitors/dp/B000TTQHCM/ref=pd_ybh_10[/url]
Here's my humble vintage setup:
The turntable is a [B]Thorens TD 160[/B] from 1972 with a Shure M79xE cartridge. I got it like a year and a half ago from Ebay. It didn't come with the Shure though. I think it came with an Ortofon OM-5e which sounded really bright. I also had to replace the belt. These tables need to set up perfectly in order to really sound good. The platter needs to be perfectly level and have the right bounce. I can tell you it's a real pain in the ass to set up the springs from the bottom but it really pays off in the end.
The receiver is a [B]Kenwood KR-8010[/B] from 1979 It's rated at 125 wpc. I got it last week and oh boy this thing is built like a tank. It weighs over 20kg (44 lbs)! I just had to clean the pots a little and resolder the tuning meter bulb. Other than the bent power switch a a few minor nicks on the wood cabinet it's in excellent condition. The sound is excellent as well even from my shitty speakers though I mostly listen with my headphones.
[IMG_THUMB]http://i.imgur.com/UOrpt.jpg[/IMG_THUMB] [IMG_THUMB]http://i.imgur.com/GJTgD.jpg[/IMG_THUMB]
[IMG_THUMB]http://i.imgur.com/DXCIu.jpg[/IMG_THUMB] [IMG_THUMB]http://i.imgur.com/oiUzm.jpg[/IMG_THUMB]
[B]Edit:[/B] Here you can see the colour of the scale better:
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/iVh04.jpg[/img_thumb]
I've been pleasantly surprised by british made "Mordaunt Short" speakers. Their flagship DSB208 8" driver used a decent rubber surround so even for their age they generally don't show signs of perishing. They sound great and can generally be had for around £50 on ebay.
I've got a pair of MS35TIs which I got for £25 with the proper sand filled metal floor stands to go with them:
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/286964/fpdrop/%24T2eC16d%2C%21zEE9s3%21Y9EIBQeubZMupg%7E%7E60_35.JPG[/img]
A pair of pageant series 2s which I got given
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/286964/fpdrop/1288005197_131980752_1-Pictures-of--VinTaGe-MorDaunt-ShorT-PaGeant-Series-2-480-1288005197.jpg[/img]
And a pair of Festival Series 3s which I bought off ebay for £45
[img]https://dl.dropbox.com/u/286964/fpdrop/fronts.jpg[/img]
I ordered klipsch promedia speakers for my PC
but my dad has two 1986-1990 klipsch speakers that costed around 1.5k
I'll get a picture of them sometime.
Got a pair of ditton 100's for like 20€ at a second hand shop.
[IMG]http://gavinsmith.ca/lj/ditton100.jpg[/IMG]
On an ancient marantz PM250 amp, I got from my father.
[IMG]http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/5162/dsc05804n.jpg[/IMG]
Got myself some Swan M200 Mk IIs hooked up to an ODAC, sounding pretty damn good.
[img]http://www.itemaudio.co.uk/swans_m200_front.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=thelurker1234;39203041]I ordered klipsch promedia speakers for my PC
but my dad has two 1986-1990 klipsch speakers that costed around 1.5k
I'll get a picture of them sometime.[/QUOTE]
Dads always seem to have really expensive vintage speakers
Glad to see some thread activity, I'll start the morning off with some more stuff of mine.
[IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/399763_10152099839900055_1797696512_n.jpg?t=1358090311[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/392114_10152099840665055_1779574899_n.jpg?t=1358090315[/IMG]
This is a setup of mine that I picked up at an antique shop for around $100. I had been wanting a record player and this whole setup was a steal.
Pioneer SX-790 Stereo Reciever
Pioneer CT-F650 Tape Deck
Pioneer SG-300 Graphic Equalizer
Pioneer PL-514 Automatic Return Turntable
All the same vintage, all in mint condition. The old lady I got them from said they were her husbands and she only ever heard him use them a dozen times since they bought them new. All functions beautifully and when paired with a set of vintage ADS's they sound fantastic.
[editline]13th January 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=FlashFireSix;39203630]Dads always seem to have really expensive vintage speakers[/QUOTE]
And our kids will be scrounging through boxes in the attic and finding Xbox 360's, Wii's and ancient videocards. That will be a crazy day.
[editline]13th January 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=Lamar;39201104]That's one interesting subwoofer you plan to build there. How on earth is a 15" woofer not putting out enough for your needs? I understand it's in a sealed enclosure and all, but wow..
Thanks for the compliments on the bookshelves. I bought them about a year ago from Ascend Acoustics. Only other option of getting them is through the used market, them being an ID company. The speakers are powered by a technics sa-gx330 with a nuforce air dac used for wireless play from my laptop. My receiver raised some eyebrows from another forum, but I'm not a believer in expensive amplifiers resulting in better sound.[/QUOTE]
It's a slippery slope with bass needs, I want it for my home theater. I've got a full set of A/D/S L400's for surround, 15" Titanic MKIII, Dayton 1000W dedicated Amplifier, 1600W Buttkicker Amp, two Buttkicker LFE transducers mounted to a reinforced 130" large sofa. I just want to really up the output without stressing the amp or drivers and I've got the space for a large enclosure and I've always wanted to build an ultimate subwoofer that can push a response to 10Hz with 110dB sensitivity.
Decided to make another loudspeaker design based on my bent cherry series, this one is actually an easy build and reasonable for a starting the series.
[IMG]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/mini_monitors.png?t=1358098919[/IMG]
Driver wise I'd use all dayton drivers simply because if I did actually build this I'd be nice to attend the Parts Express Midwest speaker design competition.
It's based on my design experience with this coffee table (I don't have the glass top made yet, getting that this week)
[img_thumb]http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a345/ajackss/null_table.png?t=1355500829[/img_thumb]
no joke that's one of the most beautiful speakers I've seen Ajacks, if the competition was based on looks alone..
[QUOTE=taipan;39203147]Got a pair of ditton 100's for like 20€ at a second hand shop.
[IMG]http://gavinsmith.ca/lj/ditton100.jpg[/IMG]
.[/QUOTE]
I have a broken pair of those, still makes me sad that they don't work
[QUOTE=Lamar;39205471]no joke that's one of the most beautiful speakers I've seen Ajacks, if the competition was based on looks alone..
I have a broken pair of those, still makes me sad that they don't work[/QUOTE]
Thanks man, you can win in design categories as well, it'd be entertaining to enter 95% of the designs that are entered are 50 year old guys building square boxes out of some imported exotic wood.
Do you know whats broken on the Ditton's?
If you added up all your audio equipment's cost, how much would it total Ajacks?
For my bedroom Home theater setup I think I've spent around $3,500 overall not counting my TV. For my vintage stuff I think I might have spent $400 total, that's what I love about finding stuff and restoring/repairing. It's not my main hobby but it's just something I've really recently enjoyed getting into in depth.
For my future projects I plan on spending around $400 (a steal) to build that Tuba HT horned subwoofer with the new amp it needs.
I'd like to build that speaker I just posted above, which will cost around $425 for the components, four 8" Dayton Reference series woofers, two Aluminum dome reference tweeters, crossover components and a pair of 8" passive radiators to fire out the rear and another $60 in other material costs.
I also want to create a new cabniet for my EPI T/E 100's and make them into a bitching center channel to match my EPI A500 main speakers, but I only need material for the cabinet and a pair of passive radiators for the back.
[QUOTE=Ajacks;39205830]For my bedroom Home theater setup I think I've spent around $3,500 overall not counting my TV. For my vintage stuff I think I might have spent $400 total, that's what I love about finding stuff and restoring/repairing. It's not my main hobby but it's just something I've really recently enjoyed getting into in depth.
For my future projects I plan on spending around $400 (a steal) to build that Tuba HT horned subwoofer with the new amp it needs.
I'd like to build that speaker I just posted above, which will cost around $425 for the components, four 8" Dayton Reference series woofers, two Aluminum dome reference tweeters, crossover components and a pair of 8" passive radiators to fire out the rear and another $60 in other material costs.
I also want to create a new cabniet for my EPI T/E 100's and make them into a bitching center channel to match my EPI A500 main speakers, but I only need material for the cabinet and a pair of passive radiators for the back.[/QUOTE]
Oh right, I totally forgot you build your speakers, you've done well to get all that stuff whilst spending only a bit!
[QUOTE=Ajacks;39205649]Thanks man, you can win in design categories as well, it'd be entertaining to enter 95% of the designs that are entered are 50 year old guys building square boxes out of some imported exotic wood.
Do you know whats broken on the Ditton's?[/QUOTE]
The woofers themselves have massive tears in them.
[QUOTE=Lamar;39205960]The woofers themselves have massive tears in them.[/QUOTE]
Recone! It's a fun project. Might not be economical though, could just buy new woofers. I'm sure you could pick up a similarly efficient driver for around $20-30 if you wanted a project.
Doesn't look like anyone has a reconing kit for them, shame.
[QUOTE=Ajacks;39205996]Recone! It's a fun project. Might not be economical though, could just buy new woofers. I'm sure you could pick up a similarly efficient driver for around $20-30 if you wanted a project.
Doesn't look like anyone has a reconing kit for them, shame.[/QUOTE]
Wouldn't I need a new crossover as well though?
[QUOTE=Lamar;39206173]Wouldn't I need a new crossover as well though?[/QUOTE]
Nope, just similarly performing driver, anyways I'd assume that a vintage 2-way loudspeaker is going to have a crossover about as complex as one cap, but you wouldn't need to touch it anyways since you're not changing both the tweeter and woofer, as long as you get a woofer with similar efficiency you'd be fine.
So when I'm at the thrift store looking for stuff, what should I look for in a receiver? I just want a nice 2.1 or just 2.0 system really.
A home audio thread and not one mention of McIntosh? What a shame.
[QUOTE=DuCT;39206442]A home audio thread and not one mention of McIntosh? What a shame.[/QUOTE]
There is a McIntosh amp in the title image.
[editline]13th January 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=Shadaez;39206341]So when I'm at the thrift store looking for stuff, what should I look for in a receiver? I just want a nice 2.1 or just 2.0 system really.[/QUOTE]
Denon
Harmon Kardon
Marantz
NAD
B&K
Pioneer
Yamaha (Eh)
Onkyo
Ideally if you could find an old high end receiver with optical audio in you'd be set with modern components. 5.1 receivers are very common, that's what most good and decently modern receivers are going to be, if you see a 7.1 of any of those brands odds are it's pretty good and if it's it'll do you just fine with that as well. If you just plan on running stereo speakers you could also look into finding a stereo amplifer instead.
[QUOTE=Ajacks;39206588]There is a McIntosh amp in the title image.
[editline]13th January 2013[/editline]
Denon
Harmon Kardon
Marantz
NAD
B&K
Pioneer
Yamaha (Eh)
Onkyo
Ideally if you could find an old high end receiver with optical audio in you'd be set with modern components. 5.1 receivers are very common, that's what most good and decently modern receivers are going to be, if you see a 7.1 of any of those brands odds are it's pretty good and if it's it'll do you just fine with that as well. If you just plan on running stereo speakers you could also look into finding a stereo amplifer instead.[/QUOTE]
Didn't see that one there.
Anyways, some dude is selling a pretty complete setup for $50. It includes a "Sanyo stereo with Turntable, Dual cassette and AM-FM Radio and 2 speakers in excellent condition." It might not be fancy, but I'll probably check it out and see if I can fit it anywhere in my dorm room. That way I can finally bring all my vinyl with me to school also.
[QUOTE=Ajacks;39206271]Nope, just similarly performing driver, anyways I'd assume that a vintage 2-way loudspeaker is going to have a crossover about as complex as one cap, but you wouldn't need to touch it anyways since you're not changing both the tweeter and woofer, as long as you get a woofer with similar efficiency you'd be fine.[/QUOTE]
ah man, they're in much worse condition than I remembered. The drivers are totally fucked up, the tweeters are pushed in (easy fix I suppose), and the speaker terminal is just completely missing on one of the cabinets! :( Oh and one of them is missing the abortive material inside, the other uses some kind of wool for that purpose.
Damn, Sounds like a write off to me. With the tweeters and woofers gone there isn't anything original left if you fixed the speaker.
There was a nice Onkyo receiver (and a few denon, but they had CD changers in them which is just eh) at good will but no good speakers. Was $20, had optical in and such. Almost convinced my brother to get it, but eh.
[editline]13th January 2013[/editline]
Plus I looked the model up and it was ~$60 online and $20 at the store. Gonna keep looking, though.
[editline]13th January 2013[/editline]
Also I love the look of old electronics. Portapro and those speakers you posted in the OP that you own are beautiful.
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