Hello Facepunch,
After seeing and shooting a compound bow yesterday, I have decided that archery is relevent to my interests. But in such a varied sport, where does one begin? So, if there are any archery nerds out there, answer some of the questions I have.
[B]1) [/B]What kind of bow should I get? I've decided that a compound bow is not for me, as I'd rather do more traditional archery. I've been looking at longbows, but if you think another type of bow could suit me - tell me.
[B]2) [/B]I'm looking at bows for probably less than $200, with $220 stretching it. What would you recommend?
[B]3) [/B]What kind of arrows should I get?
[B]4) [/B]Can someone direct me to a basic archery guide? Nothing too fancy, but just to deal with the basics like aiming, nocking arrows, release, and also tips that may help.
Thanks in advance.
Do you plan to hunt, or just target shoot? Do you know your pull strength?
[QUOTE=credesniper;36035338]Do you plan to hunt, or just target shoot? Do you know your pull strength?[/QUOTE]
For now just target shoot, but eventually hunt. And when I say hunt, I don't mean deer and things. I just mean small game such as birds. I don't know if a $220 bow would be capable of hunting small game, though, so if it isn't don't worry, I can just stick to target practice.
As for my pull strength, I'm not really very sure. Is there any way to determine that?
[QUOTE=Crimptor;36035410]For now just target shoot, but eventually hunt. And when I say hunt, I don't mean deer and things. I just mean small game such as birds. I don't know if a $220 bow would be capable of hunting small game, though, so if it isn't don't worry, I can just stick to target practice.
As for my pull strength, I'm not really very sure. Is there any way to determine that?[/QUOTE]
If you live in the U.S., outfitters like Cabella's have equipment for measuring pull strength. They'll be able to guide you to the proper setup from there.
Sorry but I don't know any outfitters/outdoor suppliers outside the U.S.
Okay, using various sources I have determined that I should be able to use a bow with a draw weight of 45lbs. Where do I go from here?
[QUOTE=Crimptor;36035310][B]1) What kind of bow should I get? I've decided that a compound bow is not for me, as I'd rather do more traditional archery. I've been looking at longbows, but if you think another type of bow could suit me - tell me.[/B]
I would, if you think you'll like archery, suggest you find a reflex bow with detachable limbs. If you do it this way you'll be able to keep increasing the strength of your bow as you improve with skill! However, if you [I]really[/I] are set with the "traditional" way of archery, if you want to call it that, go ahead and get a longbow (but expect to get some strange looks if you take it out to shoot at a range or something). I have this setup myself and it has worked wonders.
[B]2) I'm looking at bows for probably less than $200, with $220 stretching it. What would you recommend?[/B]
If you want to start with this, in my opinion absurdly low, budget then you need to get a simple reflex bow with enough draw strength to last you for a while so you can improve your aim and afford a bow with stronger draw or detachable limbs. Again, I am a big fan of detachable limbs because of their versatility.
[B]3) What kind of arrows should I get?[/B]
Simple target arrows (the ones with a conical shape at the front with their sides concave) works for most purposes. If you plan to hunt then prepare to buy broad head arrows.
[B]4) Can someone direct me to a basic archery guide? Nothing too fancy, but just to deal with the basics like aiming, nocking arrows, release, and also tips that may help.[/B]
Sorry, I can't help you there.[/QUOTE]
If your [I]comfortable[/I], and I'll stress it again, [I]comfortable[/I] draw strength is 45lbs then start to shoot at 45lbs. You want to have your first bow and arrow system to be as comfortable as possible (while not being extremely easy to shoot as that would be boring) so you can learn to finely tune your aiming technique as well as improve your form. As you shoot more and more, you will find yourself ready to equip yourself with some high-power toys. I suggest that you go to a proper archery retailer and get them to determine your draw weight. Who knows, they'll probably help you along the way as well. Good luck.
[QUOTE=HellSoldier;36036344]If your [I]comfortable[/I], and I'll stress it again, [I]comfortable[/I] draw strength is 45lbs then start to shoot at 45lbs. You want to have your first bow and arrow system to be as comfortable as possible (while not being extremely easy to shoot as that would be boring) so you can learn to finely tune your aiming technique as well as improve your form. As you shoot more and more, you will find yourself ready to equip yourself with some high-power toys. I suggest that you go to a proper archery retailer and get them to determine your draw weight. Who knows, they'll probably help you along the way as well. Good luck.[/QUOTE]
Hey, it's not that I want to have that kind of budget, my family just seriously does not have that much money. And at my age and with this economy, getting a job is impossible.
Anyway, with that aside, how's [URL=http://jeffsspecialtysports.com/greatreearcherypridelongbow.aspx]this[/URL] for a beginner bow? If it's an awful choice, just recommend something else.
I don't know where to find a guide, but I can give you all that I've learned while instructing archery at a YMCA camp. Myself, I'm a designated "Master Archer" there, which means +85 points with ten arrows at a 52" target from 20 yards.
Tips:
[B]Bows:
[/B]-You should definitely experiment with different bows before you buy one. Make sure you've used a longbow plenty if you intend to buy one. But keep in mind this recommendation:
-A reflex bow is very handy, especially for a beginner. Easy to repair, easy to change, and generally reliable. Compounds use pulley systems to increase the release force while not changing the draw force, allowing the arrows to reach speeds typical of 200-300 lb manual draws. There's decidedly less art in the use of a compound bow opposed to a manual reflex/longbow.
The other thing is that (this may be unique to the compounds I've used) compounds used for learning students tend to have a draw force which does not change with the distance you pull the string back. So, a manual will increase in draw force as you pull it back (obviously), where on a training compound, it doesn't take any extra energy to pull the string back after a certain point. There's a disadvantage to this: on a manual bow, you can remember how far you've been pulling back by gauging the strength of the draw at certain distances. Training compounds, eh, you won't. Which means you don't know how much you should compensate, if at all, for over/undershooting.
-An ideal length (reflex) bow comes up to your chin when you stand it up and face yourself forward.
-Draw strength should be comfortable, as said above. Typically, new archers start at 30 lbs strength and gradually increase to higher poundage. Me, I actually never went above 32 regularly in my time as a counselor (we didn't have any stronger bows), but I would borrow my co's 47-pounder occasionally, and wow. If you're used to a poundage, go up slowly. You'll wear out your back and arms constantly drawing full draw bows which are too strong.
[B]Stance:[/B]
-Determine if you are right- or left-handed in archery. That 'dominant' hand is the one which grasps the string. Some people use an eye test to determine which eye they would shoot better with, but ultimately it's your preference.
-Stretch your arm and back muscles before a session. Many people don't know that you activate several muscles on your back (that is, with the correct form) when shooting bow & arrow.
-Turn yourself fully perpendicular to the target. As in, your head should have to turn 90 degrees to face the target. If you are right handed, your left hand will grab the bow, and you will plant your left foot forward.
-Keep your feet facing in line with your body (not pointed toward the target), so you don't risk turning your leg.
-Keep the elbows up. Seriously. That means, when you full draw, a) never let the holding arm go anything less than taught, and b) never let your string arm's elbow drop downward. Point that elbow up and out.
[B]Aiming:[/B]
-Some people advise you to close your forward eye when shooting. Some will say keep both open. This should be your preference.
-Don't touch the arrow. Ideal string grasp is: 1 finger above the arrow, 2 below. Don't let your fingers touch the arrow, it'll throw it off.
-Breath in, then breath out as you draw. Don't breath in again til after you loose the arrow. Or you need to. But while you're aiming, try not to in/exhale.
-Aiming an arrow is not as simple as a firearm, and it's definitely something you need to get a feel for. There are accessory mounts which put little sights on the side of the bow, but they're awkward and take a long time to calibrate correctly. Basically useless.
Keep your face as close to the arrow without touching it, or endangering your holding arm with string burn. The closer you can safely get to looking down the side of the arrow, the better. Eventually, you will develop a feel for how to shoot correctly. Once you can take your stance identically each time you step up, you'll be able to fine tune where the arrow lands through feel.
[B]Firing:[/B]
-Make sure it's nocked right, generally below the nocking point on the string, with the odd colored fletching (the feathery things) facing away from the bow.
-Look through the aiming window (a small cutout, housing the arrow rest) to line up the shot horizontally.
-Loose the arrow and hold the bow perfectly still for at least two seconds after the arrow flies. If you think in advance about lowering the bow after firing, there's the chance you will subconsciously begin the process of lowering the bow as soon as you release your fingers. I.E. you might begin lowering while still firing, throwing off the arrow.
-Follow any at all commands they might give you. While this is a given, you just want to know that some ranges or instructors will require you to listen to commands which tell you when to pick up the bow, take an arrow, nock, fire, etc.
[B]Competitive Scoring:[/B]
Finally, there are different methods of taking point values depending on your target face style, and anywhere you go that counts score will instruct you on their system. A standard system uses a face which has 11 concentric rings, increasing in value as you go toward the center.
The two outermost are normally white, valuing any arrow which lands within them 1 and then 2 points.
The next two are usually black, 3 and 4 points respectively.
Then blue, 5 and 6,
Then red, 7 and 8,
Finally, yellow. 9, 10, and 10X for the very innermost ring.
The X system is used for tiebreakers in competitive shooting. If your buddy shoots a 57 and you shoot a 57, but one of your arrows landed in the very center ring, you've got a 57X and you win.
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Whew. That was a wrist workout. Anyway, I'm happy to share this, as I don't have much output for my skills when I'm at home. I've been looking into ranges nearby, but it doesn't look like I'll be much of a regular when I'm not instructing. Sucks too, because every time I return to it, I need a little while to get back up to speed.
Anyway, best of luck to you. Hope these have been helpful.
[QUOTE=DChapsfield;36036660]Wall of (very helpful) text[/QUOTE]
Thank you for that load of information!
Anyway, in my city we don't have any archery ranges, sadly. How would you recommend I obtain a bow, then? Do you think I should just find what I think is ideal and just hope for the best? It seems to be the only option at the moment.
[QUOTE=Crimptor;36036750]Thank you for that load of information!
Anyway, in my city we don't have any archery ranges, sadly. How would you recommend I obtain a bow, then? Do you think I should just find what I think is ideal and just hope for the best? It seems to be the only option at the moment.[/QUOTE]
Are there not even any sporting good stores?
The Academy near me has bows in their hunting section, not sure if they all do.
[QUOTE=jeimizu;36036778]Are there not even any sporting good stores?[/QUOTE]
There are sporting goods stores.
[QUOTE=Crimptor;36036787]There are sporting goods stores.[/QUOTE]
See if any of them have archery centers. They will probably mostly be compound hunting bows, but they usually have a few other kinds.
I just picked up a bow myself, an old compound bow my friend had in his garage, so I'll definitely be following this thread.
I purchased a Kodiak Big Bear off of Ebay, and I fucking love it.
It's a wood/fiberglass recurve bow from the 50's/60's, and it fires like a sweet dream. I love using it for target practice, and I'm sure that it would perform wonderfully in a hunting/survival environment.
That being said, recurve doesn't have the kind of power that a modern compound bow, but I like the old fashioned stuff better.
wow. This is really helpfull guys. I'v been thinking about trying my hand at archery. i love firearms. i can hit a wissle pig (a little ground squire that live around here in the dessert). at 300 yards easy enuf. but i like the feel and thought of puting your labors and ifurets in to hiting your target. i think im going to invest alittle time (and probibly less money than time. or atleast i hope thats the case) into this. thank you facepunch!!
But don't use it as a weapon until you have a skill level of 40
Make sure you wear some tights while you're at it.
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