Every so often while playing games my mouse stops for a few seconds before windows makes the "device disconnected noise" noise, after which it begins working normally again.
After playing around for a bit I found that it does this every time if I pick it up and rotate it to the side as if looking at the bottom of it, but it also seems to do it randomly while in normal use.
Originally I thought it might be a dodgy power connection inside the mouse, but didn't see any loose wires or dead giveaways. Before I resort to buying a new mouse, is it possible that I could sort this out myself another way?
Just for some extra info, the mouse is an old one that's seen its fair share of knocks and bumps. It wouldn't surprise me if the mouse was on its way out by this time.
Any advice would be appreciated.
usb cable is fucked. Uh get a new one...
Or get wireless and don't worry about fucked up cables. Worry about fucked up wireless dongles and batteries instead!
[QUOTE=Robotboy655;50813649]Or get wireless and don't worry about fucked up cables. Worry about fucked up wireless dongles and batteries instead![/QUOTE]
So you have to go to a 7/11 at 4am to buy triple a batteries that aren't in stock.
The mouse originally cost me around £30-40, can't really remember, which is why I would rather repair it than buy a new one. I can pick one up from local stores for less than £2, but with this one costing so much I'd rather get as much life out of it as I can. If the cable is fucked, though, it looks like I'm out of options.
[QUOTE=moesislack;50813741]So you have to go to a 7/11 at 4am to buy triple a batteries that aren't in stock.[/QUOTE]
To be fair, my 40 Euro wireless mouse uses 2 AA batteries that last MONTHS. ( Logitech M252 )
As long as you have at least one extra, you will be fine. My mouse even has a red warning LED when the charge gets low.
[QUOTE=maxa444;50813782]The mouse originally cost me around £30-40, can't really remember, which is why I would rather repair it than buy a new one. I can pick one up from local stores for less than £2, but with this one costing so much I'd rather get as much life out of it as I can. If the cable is fucked, though, it looks like I'm out of options.[/QUOTE]
How do you feel about soldering? It can be repaired if you really want.
[QUOTE=IpHa;50813881]How do you feel about soldering? It can be repaired if you really want.[/QUOTE]
I've never had too much of a problem with soldering, and my mouse can't really get much worse, so it's worth a try. Mad Catz don't make very accessible mice though, so it can go either way.
[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;50814694]I use rechargables with my M185 and MS Intellimouse Explorer Bluetooth(yes one of those fucking bricks and they're damn comfortable to use).
I've only had to recharge the ones in my M185 2 times in the last 2 years(does get some usage with my laptop) whilst my Microsoft one can eat a pair in a month.
Is the M525 a good mouse in your opinion? May change it out for my M185.[/QUOTE]
It has atrocious scroll wheel. After sometime of usage you will fucking hate it. I have been using mine for over 4 years. Sometimes it "overscrolls", sometimes it "underscrolls", in a sense that it's quite difficult to do a single "tick" movement, register one mouse wheel notch movement if that makes sense. Other than that, it's pretty good IMO. Mouse wheel tilt left and right (registered as Mouse 4 and Mouse 5) are like a drug for me. I wish it had a decent mouse wheel and some side buttons like G900 has.
I can't speak for gaming performance as I don't exactly have anything to compare it to.
[editline]2nd August 2016[/editline]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/7GPB7WN.png[/t]
The one I have. I know of someone who had also bought it and for them the mouse wheel just straight out broke within a week or two of usage.
[editline]2nd August 2016[/editline]
Once the mouse wheel breaks for me, I'll probably be switching to G900 despite its retarded wireless battery life.
[editline]2nd August 2016[/editline]
Finding a good mouse with good utility is surprisingly hard.
[QUOTE=maxa444;50813894]I've never had too much of a problem with soldering, and my mouse can't really get much worse, so it's worth a try. Mad Catz don't make very accessible mice though, so it can go either way.[/QUOTE]
Well, the point that the connection breaks is typically the point that it attaches to the mouse.
First find the break point by bending the cable in different places and seeing where it disconnects / reconnects.
If it's at the attachment point to the mouse, you can take the pads off the bottom of the mouse carefully by pre-heating them quite hot with a hair dryer to loosen the adhesive, then using a razor or xacto knife to slowly pry (don't cut!) the pads off. Then unscrew the mouse housing apart, cut out the section that attaches to the mouse (two or three inches or so), and strip, resolder, and heatshrink the wires together as colors indicate.
If anywhere else, you can just cut / splice / solder / heatshrink, or even solder an unused USB cord in.
I used to do that a lot with my MX518 and it lasted all of... most of a decade with the cable dying every year or so.
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