• Filling the gaps between logs in a log home? Homemade alternatives etc.
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So my dad has been building these log cabins to rent, and I'm looking for a material to seal the cracks between the logs, which were (in a display of a lack on proper log cabin building knowledge) cut flat on top and bottom, with no sort of notch or anything to keep the weather out. I've learnt from this mistake and seen that the [URL="http://whiteeaglebuildingsystems.com/BigSky.jpg"]swedish cope[/URL] would be much easier to assembly and would keep the weather out. Now, the problem is that the flat logs are already stacked and built into a cabin, but they don't sit perfectly flush (not like that's something to expect from wood) and the method we've tried for insulation (some sort of hard putty stuff) eventually dried and cracked. The optimal solution is apparently [URL="http://www.sashco.com/log/products-log-builder.html"]Log Builder[/URL] and a plastic backer rod, but there's no way I can buy that sort of caulking here, so I've come to Facepunch for alternative solutions. I've heard of a good one being PVA glue mixed with sawdust, but I have no idea of the proportions and don't know if it would withstand the weather when applied to the exterior, unless I'm only supposed to apply it to the interior or something.
The thing about gluing wood that is still in log form is that it will still expand and contract, and cause the seams to pull apart anyway. I'm assuming the corners are in timber lock joints as well. Your best bet is to take the ends of the log and stain them in a color similar to the bark or exterior of the wood (however the logs are finished) and then you will be able to have a much safer time while gluing afterwards. GO inside the house and use 2x4 or similar. Screw the 2x4 beams from the top of the wall to the bottom hitting every log with a screw. Then pack your seams with something with a little give - I'd suggest West System Epoxy with micro-beads in it for thickness. IT will build up like peanut butter and can easily be packed in the seams. WHen it's dry, remove the 2x4 joists that were holding the logs still (so they don't expand and contract too bad while the glue is still drying). The only other option is to allow the logs to take in water and hope they swell to fill the gaps. This is how boats were made in the early 30's and even before that. You build it, then sink it till the wood swells together and becomes water proof, then remove the water and refloat it. Same concept. The other option on top of that is your original log builder's caulking. I'd apply it to the inside and outside. It wouldn't hurt for both, but i feel that even that will pull away from itself in due time. With epoxy, the wood will break long before the glue does.
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