[IMG]http://i41.tinypic.com/j664v4.png[/IMG]
[release][highlight][U][B]Mechanical Keyboards[/B][/U][/highlight]
[B]Ghosting:[/B] Ghosting is when you press two keys on the keyboard, and a 3rd key - which you didn't press - gets sent to the PC as well. This is very rarely seen on even the cheapest modern boards, because manufacturers have the habit of limiting the rollover so that ghost keys are always blocked.
[B]Key Blocking:[/B] Key Blocking is as simple as it sounds; you experiencing it when you reach your maximum key roll over. So if you press 2 keys, and the third key is blocked on your board; then you just experienced blocking because your keyboard is only 2KRO.
[B]Key Rollover:[/B] NKRO is when you can press as many keys as you want at the same time, and all of them go through. This is similar to what some 'gaming keyboards' incorrectly market as "anti-ghosting", even though Logitech and Razer only apply it to the WASD cluster. Note that right now only PS/2 keyboards can exhibit full n-key rollover; though Microsoft and Ducky are just two companies who have already looked at designing NKRO over USB.
#KRO, where # = Any Number, is the key roll over of your board; and stands for the maximum number of keys you can press without experiencing any key blocking.
Many USB mechanical Keyboards are labeled as 6KRO, meaning any 6 keys can be pressed at once without the user experiencing blocking. This is generally enough for most users. Though a limited number of games may have a problem with 6KRO.
USB keyboards with 6KRO also allow for a maximum of 4 modifier keys to be used with those 6 normal keys. These modifiers include CTRL, ALT, Shift, & Super (Windows, Command, or Meta Key.)
Sometimes this also includes the FN key present on select keyboards.
[B]Key Bouncing:[/B] All types of key switches - including rubber domes - do this. When you press a key, the switch "bounces" on and off very quickly as it sets into place. This causes keys to register multiple times for each press. Because of this, keyboards need to implement some sort of debouncing delay - so that once you press a key, the controller waits a certain amount of time before registering a keypress. As an example, Cherry MX switches need 5ms of debouncing time, while rubber domes need longer (exactly how long depends on their quality).
[B]Polling Rates and Response Times:[/B] While it is very useful for mice, it's just about meaningless for keyboards. Let's assume for a minute that all switches have the 5ms debouncing time of Cherry MX switches (which is being very generous). Even if you had super human speed and reflexes, every single key would be delayed by at least that much. So really, any polling rate over 200Hz (at best) is absolutely useless, and nothing but market hype. It may even be a bit detrimental, because you'd be wasting CPU time polling the keyboard unneededly. And unlike USB keyboards, PS/2 boards aren't polled at all. They simply send the signal to the PC whenever they are ready to, which causes a hardware interrupt, forcing the CPU to register that keystroke.
[B]PS/2 vs USB:[/B] PS/2 wins on three fronts: First, it supports full n-key rollover. Second, PS/2 keyboards aren't polled, but are completely interrupt based. And third, it is impossible for it to be delayed by the USB bus being used by other devices. There are two types of USB transfer modes - the interrupt transfer mode (USB polls keyboard, when key is sensed the USB controller sends the interrupt to the CPU), and the isochronous transfer mode, which reserves a certain amount of bandwidth for the keyboard with a guaranteed latency on the bus. Unfortunately, there are absolutely no keyboards made that use the latter, because special controllers would have to be used, thus making it cost prohibitive.
So if your keyboard supports both PS/2 and USB, and your PC has a PS/2 port, there's no reason not to use it.[/release]
[release][highlight][B][U]Cherry MX Switches[/U][/B][/highlight]
[U]Cherry MX Black[/U]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22301[/IMG]
Type: Linear Switch
Tactile: No
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: 60g (40g-80g overall)
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX-Black switches are linear (non-tactile) switches, these are considered one of the best switch types for gaming. When gaming, having a tactile bump does absolutely nothing because you're going to be bottoming out anyway. So these give you a very smooth feel. The actuation and release points are at the exact same position as well. So games that require a lot of double tapping become easier than on any other keyswitch. However, most people don't enjoy typing on them that much do in part, to their linear nature.
If you're a person who tends to hit a wrong key every so often while gaming, these will be beneficial in that the high actuation force will help prevent many of those accidental presses.
[U]Cherry MX Brown[/U]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=197803&stc=1&d=1298910971[/IMG]
Type: Tactile Switch
Tactile: Yes
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: 45g (55g Peak Force)
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX Brown switches are considered a middle ground between typing and "gaming" switches. They have a light, tactile feel half way through the key press that lets you know the switch has activated. This gives you an indication of what you can release the switch. The switch is considered a middle ground because the reset point & actuation point are close enough together than you can "float" at that point, enabling you to double tap faster.
[U]Cherry MX Blue[/U]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=197802&stc=1&d=1298910971[/IMG]
Type: Tactile & Clicky Switch
Tactile: Yes, precise
Clicky: Yes
Actuation Force: 50g (60g Peak Force)
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX Blue switches are the best cherry switch for typing. The tactile bump can easily be felt, and the resistance is similar to your average keyboard.
Although many people find them just fine for gaming, some don't like the fact that the release point is above the actuation point. This can cause some trouble with double-tapping. This is usually the case with someone who has experienced other mechanical switches before hand.
[U]Cherry MX Clear[/U]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=197804&stc=1&d=1298910971[/IMG]
Type: Tactile Switch
Tactile: Yes
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: 55g (65G peak force)
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX Clear switches have often been called "stiffer browns" though some users note that they have more of a tactile feel than browns do. This really can be a subjective topic, though this is another switch that could be considered "ballanced." The force required is comparable to most rubber dome keyboards, with a nice tactile feedback to tell you the key has actuated. These switches are harder to find on keyboards.
[U]Cherry MX Red [/U]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=197801&stc=1&d=1298910971[/IMG]
Type: Linear Switch
Tactile: No
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: 45g
Key Travel: 2mm to actuation, 4mm to bottom
Cherry MX-Red's are another switch that can be considered a "gaming" switch. It's essentially a lighter version of the MX Black, requiring less force to actuate. Some people do not find this switch that good for typing or gaming because it is so light, but others rave for this fact. Light or Stiff is always a matter of preference. This switch was hard to find; and was reported as EOL, but it is still in limited production with a higher than average MOQ leading to higher cost to board makers. Marketed with high demand, boards with this switch are becoming more common, but are generally more expensive as well.
[B][U]Other Switches[/U][/B]
[U]Buckling Spring[/U]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22295[/IMG]
Type: Tactile & Clicky Mechanical Switch
Tactile: Yes, very precise
Clicky: Yes, loud
Actuation Force: 65g-70g
Key Travel: 2.3mm to actuation, 3.7mm to bottom
Buckling springs are pretty straightforward once you see them in action. After pushing the key down a certain distance the spring buckles under pressure, causing the hammer at the bottom to hit a membrane sheet and create an electrical contact. The buckling of the spring also provides tactile feedback and a satisfying click as it hits the shaft wall. And you might also notice through the force diagrams that this is the only mechanical switch where the tactile and audible feedback correspond to the exact moment the switch actuates.
[U]Black Alps[/U]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22298[/IMG]
Type: Tactile Mechanical Switch
Tactile: Yes
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: Simplified 60g, Complicated 70g
Key Travel: 3.5mm
Black Alps are one of the two most common Alps switch types. Many people do not like these switches due to the fact that they are stiff, bottom out hard, and tend to develop friction in the travel as they wear. Nonetheless, they are an improvement over most rubber dome keyboards.
There are two different types of Black Alps switch - an older type known as the "Complicated" due to the large number of parts in the switch, and a newer type known as the "Simplified", which was manufactured by Alps and some other companies. Complicated switches are common in many older keyboards, particularly the Dell AT101W, which is a very common mechanical keyboard from the 1990s.
[U]White Alps[/U]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22381[/IMG]
Type: Clicky & Tactile Mechanical Switche
Tactile: Yes
Clicky: Yes
Actuation Force: 60g-70g
Key Travel: 3.5mm
White Alps are one of the most common Alps switch types. These are far more popular than the Black switches due to more pronounced tactility, and the lower force requirements of some versions. Like the Black Alps, White Alps are much easier to bottom out on compared with other mechanical keyswitch designs.
As with the Black switch. there are Complicated and Simplified White switches. The two most popular Simplified White switches are the Fukka and the XM. The XM is almost universally considered to be a terrible switch, it was used on some older Filco Zero models, and some vintage keyboards. The Fukka switch is quite popular, and some people prefer them over the Complicated switch. It is used on some current production Alps keyboards such as current production Filco Zeros, Matias keyboards and some others. Complicated White switches were used on some well made keyboards from the 90s such as the Northgate and Focus keyboards.
[U]Topre Switch[/U]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22304[/IMG]
Type: Tactile Capacitive Switch
Tactile: Yes
Clicky: No
Actuation Force: 30g, 35g, 45g, 55g depending on model
Key Travel: 4mm
Topre switches are somewhat of a hybrid switch, and are capacitive by nature. The Topre mechanism uses a spring underneath a rubber dome, and the depression of the spring causes a change in capacitance between the underlying capacitor pads. With this change in capacitance; the switch activates.
Topre Switches are considered some of the finest switches available, as they offer a very enjoyable typing experience with a quieter experience compared to a Cherry MX, Alps, or Buckling Spring switch. The reason is Topre switches have the smoothest force gradient even compared to Linear switches like MX-Reds and MX-Blacks.[/release]
[release][U][B][highlight]Key Cap Plastics and Designs[/B][/U][/highlight]
[U]Plastics[/U]
[B]PBT Plastic ([URL="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polybutylene_terephthalate"]Polybutylene Terephthalate[/URL])[/B]
Can Survive up to 150*C (or more in some cases)
Resistant to solvents
Mechanically Strong
Does not "shine" as fast
Expensive
[B]ABS Plastic ([URL="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene"]Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene[/URL])[/B]
Solvents will "melt" the keys
Keys develope "shine" faster
Low Cost
Light Weight
[U]Keytop Shapes[/U]
[B]Cylindrical[/B] - Almost all keyboards today use this shape. This is often referred to as sculpted design. The shape is meant to cradle the finger tip.
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=27765[/IMG]
[B]Flat[/B] - Frequently found on laptops and "laptop style" keyboards. These are also found on PointOfSale (POS) keyboards because of the replaceable legends.
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22317[/IMG]
[B]Spherical[/B] - This shape is normally found on vintage keyboards and type writers
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=27768[/IMG][/release]
[release][highlight][B][U]Products[/U][/B][/highlight]
[B]Das Model S[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22007[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://www.daskeyboard.com/"]Das Keyboard[/URL]
Price: $129-$135
Switch Type: Cherry MX Blues (Professional, Ultimate), Cherry MX Browns (Silent)
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Laser Etched (Professional, Silent), Blank (Ultimate)
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: PS/2 or USB
Rollover: NKRO (PS/2) | 6+4 key (USB)
Layout: US ANSI
Extra Features: USB Hub
Drawbacks: Shiny case attracts fingerprints, USB hub requires separate port
[B]Rosewill RK-9000[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22010[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201040&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-RSSDailyDeals-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=4003003&SID=w6dlp04n64yz"]Newegg[/URL]
Price: $80-$100
Switch Type: Cherry MX-Blue
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Pad Printed
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: USB or PS/2 (adapter not included)
Rollover: 6KRO (USB) | NKRO (PS/2)
Layout: US ANSI
Extra Features: None
Drawbacks: No PS/2 adapter included.
Other: Red plate under keys looks sharp in normal light.
[B]SIIG JK-US0112-S1[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22273[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823191003&cm_re=Mechanical_Keyboard-_-23-191-003-_-Product&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-RSSDailyDeals-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=4003003&SID=cwb5ks32odro"]Newegg[/URL]
Price: $70-80
Switch Type: White Alps (Fukkas)
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Pad Printed
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: USB or PS/2
Rollover: 2KRO
Layout: Modified ANSI Layout
Extra Features:
Drawbacks: Switches are susceptible to dirt in them causing problems.
Other: Lifetime Warranty
[B]ZOWIE Gear CELERITAS[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22272[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823826001&cm_re=Mechanical_Keyboard-_-23-826-001-_-Product&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-RSSDailyDeals-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=4003003&SID=cjjgt7jidqbw"]Newegg[/URL]
Price: $120
Switch Type: Cherry MX-Brown
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Laser-etched
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: USB or PS/2
Rollover: 6KRO (USB) | NKRO (PS/2)
Layout: Modified ANSI Layout
Extra Features: Multimedia Keys, Swappable Windows & CTRL keys, Real Time Response function (only works on PS/2)
Drawbacks:
Other: Reported as Nylon keycaps, durability may be a concern?
[B]Thermaltake Meka G1[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22648[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823162014&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-RSSDailyDeals-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=4003003&SID=130l8dfpxw3m1"]Newegg[/URL]
Price: $130
Switch Type: Cherry MX Blacks
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Pad Printed
Key Shape: Flat
Interface: USB or PS/2
Rollover: NKRO (PS/2) | 6KRO (USB)
Layout: US ANSI
Extra Features: USB Hub, Pass through Audio Ports, Detachable Wrist Wrest, Multimedia Keys
Drawbacks: cable is really thick
Other: 1000hz polling not known to benefit the board in anyway.
[B]Filco Majestouch Tenkeyless [/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22652[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://www.amazon.com/gp/browse.html?ie=UTF8&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&me=A104717BI2VJF7&tag=vig-20"]Amazon[/URL]
Price: $140 ($165 for the Cherry MX Red version)
Switch Type: Cherry MX Brown, MX-Black, MX-Blue, or MX-Red
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Pad
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: USB or PS/2
Rollover: NKRO (PS/2) | 6KRO (USB)
Layout: US ANSI
Extra Features: None
Drawbacks: Pricey for what is offered
Other: Cherry MX-Red, Brown, Black, & Blue versions available
[B]iOne Scorpius M10[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22014[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://max-geek-llc.amazonwebstore.com/iOne-Scorpius-M10-Mechanical-key-switch/M/B000UC1W3C.htm"]Amazon Web Store[/URL]
Price: $59
Switch Type: Cherry MX Blues
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Laser Etched
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: USB
Rollover: 2KRO
Layout: US ANSI
Extra Features: None
Drawbacks: Cheap Construction
Other: Older keyboards have soldering problems, so avoid buying used
[B]Steelseries 7G[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22018[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823239002&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-RSSDailyDeals-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=4003003&SID=rx7inofu2j3e"]Newegg[/URL]
Price: $139
Switch Type: Cherry MX Blacks
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Laser Etched
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: PS/2 and USB
Rollover: NKRO
Layout: US ANSI, Large Enter Key, Small Backspace, Relocated Slash
Extra Features: USB hub, pass-through 3.5mm headphone and microphone jacks, detachable wrist-rest
Drawbacks:
Other:
[B]Steelseries 6Gv2[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22019[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823239015&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-RSSDailyDeals-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=4003003&SID=1wjsmyx5l3j09"]Newegg[/URL]
Price: $89-$100
Switch Type: Cherry MX Blacks
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Laser Etched
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: PS/2 and USB
Rollover: NKRO (PS/2) | 6KRO (USB)
Layout: US ANSI, Large Enter Key, Relocated [ /? ] key
Drawbacks:
Other:
[B]iOne Xarmor U9BL[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22008[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://www.amazon.com/XARMOR-U9BL-Backlit-Keyboard-Illuminated-Mechanical/dp/B003XQE040/?tag=vig-20"]Amazon[/URL] Price: $150
Switch Type: MX Blue
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: Dye sublimation, overlaid with a rubber coating with the letter laser engraved from it
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: PS/2 and USB
Rollover: NKRO (PS/2) | 6KRO (USB)
Layout: US ANSI
Extra Features: Individual LED backlight for each key, USB hub, pass-through 3.5mm audio/mic jacks, media keys, detachable wrist rest
Drawbacks: Some concerns about keycap durability
Other: MX-blue without backlight available ( U9Plus ), Cherry MX-Brown version available ( U9BL-S ), U9 & U9W models may be available in the future.
[B]Razer BlackWidow Ultimate[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22021[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://store.razerzone.com/store/razerusa/en_US/pd/productID.211651300"]Razer Store[/URL]
Price: $130
Switch Type: MX Blue
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: ABS, translucent key painted, then lasered.
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: USB
Rollover: 2KRO (USB) (but has a gaming optimized matrix around WASD)
Layout: US ANSI
Extra Features: Individual LED backlight for each key, USB hub, pass-through 3.5mm audio/mic jacks, media keys
Drawbacks: Some concerns about keycap durability, glossy surface holds dust and oil (fingerprints) easily.
Other: [URL="http://store.razerzone.com/store/razerusa/en_US/pd/productID.226322600/parentCategoryID.43736600/categoryId.55256600"]Dragon Age II Special Edition[/URL] version available from Razer
[B]Razer BlackWidow[/B]
[IMG]http://www.overclock.net/picture.php?albumid=3859&pictureid=22020[/IMG]
Link: [URL="http://store.razerzone.com/store/razerusa/en_US/pd/productID.211324200"]Razer Store[/URL]
Price: $80
Switch Type: MX Blue
Switch Mounting: Plate
Keycap Printing: ABS, Lasered with infill, coated
Key Shape: Sculpted
Interface: USB
Rollover: 2KRO (USB) (but has a gaming optimized matrix around WASD)
Layout: US ANSI
Extra Features: media keys
Drawbacks: Some concerns about keycap durability, glossy surface holds dust and oil (fingerprints) easily.
Other:[/release]
[release][B][U][highlight]Review Format[/highlight][/U][/B]
[code]
[B]Picture:[/B]
[B]Manufacturer:[/B]
[B]Link:[/B]
[B]Rating(1-10):[/B]
[B]Pros:[/B]
[B]Cons:[/B]
[/code][/release]
[B][U][URL="http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide"]SOURCE FOR INFORMATION AND PICTURES[/URL][/U][/B]
I disagree with the Das having fingerprints, mine doesn't have any at all.
I don't get the love for mechanical keyboards.
This is the first time I've really looked at keyboards as different types and looking at them, I type slower on those than any of the other keyboards I've ever used.
I do about ~85-90WPM on a mechanical, whereas on my [URL=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823204019]current keyboard[/url] I can do ~115-120. Everyone seems to love them, though. Guess it's just me.
[QUOTE=venn178;34344073]I don't get the love for mechanical keyboards.
This is the first time I've really looked at keyboards as different types and looking at them, I type slower on those than any of the other keyboards I've ever used.
I do about ~85-90WPM on a mechanical, whereas on my current keyboard I can do ~115-120. Everyone seems to love them, though. Guess it's just me.[/QUOTE]
That's odd, I can type 1.5x to 2 times faster on a mechanical keyboard than a regular one.
With a mechanical the edges of my fingers can get stuck towards the edge of one key when it's coming up and to the side on its way to the next key, while the keyboard I linked has the keys so low-profile that I never really notice the keys getting in the way or anything.
Also mechanical keyboards are a lot easier to get crumbs and shit in.
[QUOTE=venn178;34344073]I don't get the love for mechanical keyboards.
This is the first time I've really looked at keyboards as different types and looking at them, I type slower on those than any of the other keyboards I've ever used.
I do about ~85-90WPM on a mechanical, whereas on my [URL=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823204019]current keyboard[/url] I can do ~115-120. Everyone seems to love them, though. Guess it's just me.[/QUOTE]
It's all personal preference, but a lot of the times people type faster on mechanical as opposed to dome and such.
If nothing else, this at least drums up a bit of discussion to make the first page of the thread interesting.
Alternatively, [url=http://play.typeracer.com/?rt=trvenn177]show me the power of the mechanical keyboard.[/url]
[QUOTE=venn178;34344073]I don't get the love for mechanical keyboards.
This is the first time I've really looked at keyboards as different types and looking at them, I type slower on those than any of the other keyboards I've ever used.
I do about ~85-90WPM on a mechanical, whereas on my [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823204019"]current keyboard[/URL] I can do ~115-120. Everyone seems to love them, though. Guess it's just me.[/QUOTE]
As a programmer, they're much more reliable, satisfying and comfortable to use (never tried actually gaming with one). I've used some bad and some good mechanical keyboards, and there's a very noticeable difference between them. With the bad mechanical keyboards I can't type more than maybe ~60-100 WPM.
This is what confuses me, I guess. Comfortable I can understand for preferences, but how can any keyboard be more reliable than any other keyboard? The only things that I can imagine that would determine reliability are how long until it breaks down and how easily the keys can get sticky and ruined, but that seems more user-sided. And "satisfying," I've heard it before, but I don't get any satisfaction out of how my keyboard sounds when I press it. Again, might just be me.
[QUOTE=StinkyJoe;34344221]As a programmer, they're much more reliable, satisfying and comfortable to use (never tried actually gaming with one). I've used some bad and some good mechanical keyboards, and there's a very noticeable difference between them. With the bad mechanical keyboards I can't type more than maybe ~60-100 WPM.[/QUOTE]
I agree, they are very handy for programming. They really make it a more enjoyable experience.
[QUOTE=venn178;34344244]This is what confuses me, I guess. Comfortable I can understand for preferences, but how can any keyboard be more reliable than any other keyboard? The only things that I can imagine that would determine reliability are how long until it breaks down and how easily the keys can get sticky and ruined, but that seems more user-sided. And "satisfying," I've heard it before, but I don't get any satisfaction out of how my keyboard sounds when I press it. Again, might just be me.[/QUOTE]
Rubber-dome keyboards feel more..."mushy" than mechanicals. In rubber-dome it is much harder for you to tell when you actually pressed something than on mechanicals. On mechanicals you know the exact distance of the click and don't need to go any further, making your typing slightly faster.
[QUOTE=venn178;34344244]This is what confuses me, I guess. Comfortable I can understand for preferences, but how can any keyboard be more reliable than any other keyboard? The only things that I can imagine that would determine reliability are how long until it breaks down and how easily the keys can get sticky and ruined, but that seems more user-sided. And "satisfying," I've heard it before, but I don't get any satisfaction out of how my keyboard sounds when I press it. Again, might just be me.[/QUOTE]
By reliable I pretty much mean lifetime - I like to smack my return key with each command like a bloody retard, I like to type very fast, and basically just abuse the hell out of the keyboard, and I want something that won't break after a month or two of that. As for satisfying, it's pretty much related - being able to type fast and smack keys without being worried about my fingers reaching the desk, hearing the mechanical click-clang, etc.
I've had this keyboard that I've had (redundant sentence) for about two years now, and it's still in brand-new-esque condition. I suppose once again we just end up talking about preference.
I just recently ordered the Razer Black Widow Ultimate and cannot wait to open that box up! Please, if you have any suggestions for the thread, let me know.
Yeah I guess this thread has 27 pages of completely useless information about mechanical keyboards even though its a megathread [url]http://www.facepunch.com/threads/1054092[/url]
[url=http://www.facepunch.com/threads/1054092]A little late to the party man[/url]
Also nice copy and paste from [url=http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide]here[/url], if you are going to do that at least say you did in the OP.
[QUOTE=Nsybouts;34345081][url=http://www.facepunch.com/threads/1054092]A little late to the party man[/url]
Also nice copy and paste from [url=http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide]here[/url], if you are going to do that at least say you did in the OP.[/QUOTE]
My bad, I forgot to add the source.
Sweet copy pastes from overclock.net, I got that shit memorized in my head. :smug:
There's a 30~ page thread already by the way, do your research.
[editline]22nd January 2012[/editline]
I can see I'm late to this party.
But seriously, you should close this thread, no need for two.
I am not going to close this thread for the fact that I believe it is setup better.
I know I did copy and paste, does that matter? It is still reliable information with easy accessibility here on Facepunch.
Yea it does matter because you're just taking someones writing and information and passing it off as your own. Let's be real here, you wouldn't have added the source if someone didn't call you out on it.
Theres no reason for this thread.
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