I'm planning to put together a simple CPU loop with an XSPC Delta V3 an XSPC DDC pump/reservoir and a 240mm radiator. Now, while I have a good idea of how the setup would work, at least I think I do... But I do have a few questions regarding several aspects of the loop:
[B]Radiator[/B]
I have a CM HAF932, and will be mounting the radiator in the top of the case with two 120mm fans on there. I don't really know much about which radiators are good, and which are not, but I do know that I don't want it to be too obtrusive and having looked around, I found the Black Ice GT Stealth which seems a good compromise between cooling ability and actual thickness of the rad. My question is, will this do? It will only be cooling a single component, but that component is my E8200, running at 4.00GHz. If I need to buy a thicker radiator I can, but I'd rather have this if I can get away with it.
The other question regarding radiators is cleaning them, I know I should clean it before using it, but I don't know how, I remember seeing a rather good guide on this a while ago, but now cannot find that.
[B]
Tubing & Fittings[/B]
I was planning to use 1/2" ID tubing all round, with TFC Compression Fittings. I'm pretty sure these should work together, but would like to clarify that.
On top of the pump/res I was going to use a 90 degree 1/2" barb because the pump will be resting on top of the hard drive cages in place of the 5 1/4" bays as I will be running a filling line down from the fill port at the top of the case. I've heard it's bad to use an elbow fitting on a pump but I can't see the problem as it would be the inlet to the res rather than straight into the pump. I would also like to be assured that that barb will work with 1/2 ID tubing.
[B]Coolant[/B]
I want to use a blood red coolant, that isn't going to clog up or go gooey on me after 6 months or something. So any suggestions on that are welcome.
On a final note, is there anything else for me to consider when setting up a first time watercooling loop.
[QUOTE=mattfinch;16453547]I'm planning to put together a simple CPU loop with an XSPC Delta V3 an XSPC DDC pump/reservoir and a 240mm radiator. Now, while I have a good idea of how the setup would work, at least I think I do... But I do have a few questions regarding several aspects of the loop:
[B]Radiator[/B]
I have a CM HAF932, and will be mounting the radiator in the top of the case with two 120mm fans on there. I don't really know much about which radiators are good, and which are not, but I do know that I don't want it to be too obtrusive and having looked around, I found the Black Ice GT Stealth which seems a good compromise between cooling ability and actual thickness of the rad. My question is, will this do? It will only be cooling a single component, but that component is my E8200, running at 4.00GHz. If I need to buy a thicker radiator I can, but I'd rather have this if I can get away with it.
The other question regarding radiators is cleaning them, I know I should clean it before using it, but I don't know how, I remember seeing a rather good guide on this a while ago, but now cannot find that.
[B]
Tubing & Fittings[/B]
I was planning to use 1/2" ID tubing all round, with TFC Compression Fittings. I'm pretty sure these should work together, but would like to clarify that.
On top of the pump/res I was going to use a 90 degree 1/2" barb because the pump will be resting on top of the hard drive cages in place of the 5 1/4" bays as I will be running a filling line down from the fill port at the top of the case. I've heard it's bad to use an elbow fitting on a pump but I can't see the problem as it would be the inlet to the res rather than straight into the pump. I would also like to be assured that that barb will work with 1/2 ID tubing.
[B]Coolant[/B]
I want to use a blood red coolant, that isn't going to clog up or go gooey on me after 6 months or something. So any suggestions on that are welcome.
On a final note, is there anything else for me to consider when setting up a first time watercooling loop.[/QUOTE]
Radiators: [url]http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/367809-radiator-thermals-radiator-calculators-martin.html[/url]
Fittings: Your fittings are fine. Elbows in your system dramatically cut down on flow [url]http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/198795-one-1-2-elbow-4-1-a.html[/url]
Coolant: I suggest getting red tubes and using distilled water with a biocide (pt-nuke). Distilled water is just as resistant to conductivity as other coolants but, other coolants will often clock up your system over time.
Some good information can be found here: [url]http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/226970-water-cooling-essential-threads.html[/url]
I am also doing a HAF build so you can follow what I do once I get my parts.
As for cleaning. You don't really need to do that unless you are using a coolant instead of distilled water. But, distilled vinegar mixed with distilled water works great for cleaning out radiators.
Alright thanks, I guess I'll use distilled water then, the biocide is presumuably a must?
Should places like B&Q sell distilled water? I've never come across it in shops before and don't really fancy paying for shipping on several litres of water if I buy it online...
[QUOTE=mattfinch;16465880]Should places like B&Q sell distilled water? I've never come across it in shops before and don't really fancy paying for shipping on several litres of water if I buy it online...[/QUOTE]
Why not ask them I'm sure they'll be happy to tell you if they do.
As for the rest, one thing I'd mention is perhaps using barbs instead of compression fittings, I say this because I find barbs are (in my experience) less likely to leak and they're also cheaper than compression fittings. However if you want the looks then compression fittings are the way to go.
Another note is to buy more water than you'll need I think it took roughly 1 litre to fill my loop which was Graphics card, cpu, 100ml res and a triple rad. After all if something goes wrong you might need more.
I can't stress leak testing enough, I'd recommend more than the 24 hours (I'd say 48 to be safe) most people do but that's because my last one fried due to it.
[QUOTE=mattfinch;16465880]Alright thanks, I guess I'll use distilled water then, the biocide is presumuably a must?
Should places like B&Q sell distilled water? I've never come across it in shops before and don't really fancy paying for shipping on several litres of water if I buy it online...[/QUOTE]
I have never heard of B&Q but I know that there should be some local store that sell some. I got mine at my hardware store 1.99 for a gallon (single distilled (1.10 with employee discount)) so its pretty cheap. As for biocide, it is absolutely nessicary. The PT nuke has copper which makes the water more thermally efficient and the biocide mainly makes it impossible for algae to grow.
Another big thing is to make sure you use teflon tape when putting your barbs/compression fittings on to help prevent leakage. I don't know anything about the effectiveness of barbs vs compression for leaks. I only had my tubes leak once and it was because I didn't screw the barbs in tight enough and I didn't use teflon tape.
If you put a water cooling system in a Antec 1200 can you put the rad (If it is single) in the wind tunnel where the front fan blows into the case?
[QUOTE=Xenos;16472721]I have never heard of B&Q but I know that there should be some local store that sell some. I got mine at my hardware store 1.99 for a gallon (single distilled (1.10 with employee discount)) so its pretty cheap. As for biocide, it is absolutely nessicary. The PT nuke has copper which makes the water more thermally efficient and the biocide mainly makes it impossible for algae to grow.
Another big thing is to make sure you use teflon tape when putting your barbs/compression fittings on to help prevent leakage. I don't know anything about the effectiveness of barbs vs compression for leaks. I only had my tubes leak once and it was because I didn't screw the barbs in tight enough and I didn't use teflon tape.[/QUOTE]
Should I use teflon tape where I'm joining metal barbs to acrylic parts? I remember reading that it was only good between metal components.
@Xenos B&Q is a huge hardware chain in the UK (like UK version of home depot).
Looked on their website, they didn't have any
I just knew Xenos would be all over this thread.
water cooling is better than air cooling
[QUOTE=S.T.O.R.M;16474845]If you put a water cooling system in a Antec 1200 can you put the rad (If it is single) in the wind tunnel where the front fan blows into the case?[/QUOTE]
No
[editline]10:51AM[/editline]
[QUOTE=mattfinch;16474940]Should I use teflon tape where I'm joining metal barbs to acrylic parts? I remember reading that it was only good between metal components.[/QUOTE]
I believe that teflon tape acts as a filler agent for any threads. So yes, use it every where. Even if I am wrong. It wouldn't hurt.
[editline]10:52AM[/editline]
[QUOTE=Odellus;16477950]I just knew Xenos would be all over this thread.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for helping matt finch. You really have put alot into this thread.
[QUOTE=Xenos;16479889]No
[editline]10:51AM[/editline]
I believe that teflon tape acts as a filler agent for any threads. So yes, use it every where. Even if I am wrong. It wouldn't hurt.
[editline]10:52AM[/editline]
Thanks for helping matt finch. You really have put alot into this thread.[/QUOTE]
I know.
[QUOTE=Odellus;16477950]I just knew Xenos would be all over this thread.[/QUOTE]
So? He's been very helpful, unlike some....
for that cpu, the total price you will dish out could buy you a much better cpu like an Q9550 or maybe Q9650
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