• broke of a capacitor on Asrock Motherboard
    30 replies, posted
I was trying to line up my motherboard with the shield back plate but i pushed to hard and broken on of the capacitors i think to do with the left audio channel which is no longer working. My motherboard is a Z77 Pro 3 and the capacitor has 45087 100 16FB written on it.[IMG]http://www.asrock.com/mb/photo/Z77%20Pro3(L1).jpg[/IMG] Does anyone can point me in the right direction to find a new one. Many Thanks [editline]25th April 2016[/editline] Its the top row 4th from the left.
Can you take a picture of the cap that broke off?
Wait... are you telling me that you broke off a capacitor from your motherboard, and then you[I] booted up your PC?[/I] Jesus, you'd better be thanking your lucky stars that your audio channel is all that broke. I hope you're handy with a soldering iron.
won't let me post pic only from url i have not got sorry
You can't link images directly off your hard drive. You need to upload it somewhere like imgur.
Yeah, generally if something breaks off a board, you don't power it. Anyways, I think it's a 100uF 16V cap, but if I'm looking at the one on the top left, that doesn't look like a cap at all. At least, not an electrolytic one.
[IMG]http://imgur.com/f7NiGGU[/IMG]
[QUOTE=menk01;50195991][IMG]http://imgur.com/f7NiGGU[/IMG][/QUOTE] you need to paste the direct image link next time, fixed it for you [t]http://i.imgur.com/f7NiGGU.jpg[/t]
:snip:
[IMG]http://imgur.com/nnqVvOy[/IMG] [editline]25th April 2016[/editline] got there in the end lol.
The focus is nowhere near clear enough to read the markings, but I'm not sure it matters. I think your best option is just to get an entirely new motherboard, sadly. Manually replacing caps is no mean feat, and, no offense intended, I kind of doubt you have the knowledge or experience necessary.
thank you
[QUOTE=NitronikALT;50196010]you need to paste the direct image link next time, fixed it for you [t]http://i.imgur.com/f7NiGGU.jpg[/t][/QUOTE] Really, after all that and it's blurry as fuck.
maybe you can pay someone to solder it back
[QUOTE=Yahnich;50196065]just read the capacity (in somethingF) and the voltage and buy a similar capacitor and pray to god you succeed, otherwise u gotta buy another one[/QUOTE]Isn't there a bit of a risk of damaging other components if he botches the operation?
[url]http://imgur.com/6eNn5eD[/url] [editline]25th April 2016[/editline] no the pins are still on the board
That's kind of the problem. You have to solder those pins off, then solder a new cap in the old ones place which on a mother board is incredibly difficult. Or I guess you could actually solder on top of them, that might make it a little easier.
so the 16FB will be the voltage and the 100 be the capacity?
[QUOTE=menk01;50196124]so the 16FB will be the voltage and the 100 be the capacity?[/QUOTE] That's what I've found online. Specifically I found [URL="http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-100uF-Radial-Electrolytic-Capacitor/dp/B00JFOT2BA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461551248&sr=8-1&keywords=100+16v+capacitor"]these[/URL] as a replacement.
it be okay i have some soldering experience i just need to know were i can a new one from.
you on the right track there its the same colour and being aluminum.
You can't fix that it's surface mount you need a heat station likely a microscope and a new cap. Just get a cheapo sound card or usb headset. You could rma the thing if you just bought I mean the audio isn't working.
moesislack is right, PCIe sound cards are cheap.
Think AtomicSans right PCIe sound card might be the better option to avoid extra damage lol Thanks Guys
If you bought this within the past year or so I would RMA it with the manufacturer, just don't mention the missing capacitor because that's probably not included under warranty.
I would RMA it if its still within warranty, just like pointed out, don't say you broke it off. They'll likely see the capacitor is missing and replace it or ship you a new, but if you tell them you broke it off, warranty is instantly voided. Otherwise PCIe sound card and hope to god it runs fine without the capacitor for the rest of its life.
Could easily be a DC blocking capacitor in series with the left line-out line of the green mini-jack port. Reason it's got a beefier capacitor is that main output often is boosted by a op-amp so it can drive headphones directly, and to make machine pick-and-place SMD soldering easier, faster and cheaper they re-use a capacitor type and 'model' used elsewhere on the motherboard.
Conductive polymer capacitors, or as some like to call them "solid aluminium capacitors" like this are usually still through hole so it should be very possible to replace this capacitor if that is the case. You will however need access to a soldering iron / station with rather good thermal capacity (not just power) due to the massive amount of copper you'll have to heat up. The actual removing of the old solder should be possible using solder wick or a vacuum desoldering station. You should be able to get the 100µF 16V capacitor at: [url]http://uk.rs-online.com/web/[/url] [url]http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/[/url] [url]http://uk.farnell.com/[/url] It doesn't necessarily have to be a conductive polymer capacitor as long as the pin pitch is the same, however a conductive polymer capacitor would be preferable. Remember electrolytic capacitors like this are polarized by the way.
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