You know, i have a similar computer like you have (only a much better graphical card) and it runs pretty good (the only thing i need to do is basically cleaning the shit out of him).
You would be better off upgrading the graphics card and spending the other cash for the monitor.
[QUOTE={TFS} Rock Su;45070900]You know, i have a similar computer like you have (only a much better graphical card) and it runs pretty good (the only thing i need to do is basically cleaning the shit out of him).
You would be better off upgrading the graphics card and spending the other cash for the monitor.[/QUOTE]
When he has a budget like that there's no reason to stay on a first-generation i5, especially if he's upgrading his case and various other things
[editline]11th June 2014[/editline]
[URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/p/dgJwkL"]PCPartPicker part list[/URL] / [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/p/dgJwkL/by_merchant/"]Price breakdown by merchant[/URL] / [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/p/dgJwkL/benchmarks/"]Benchmarks[/URL]
[B]CPU:[/B] [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54690k"]Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor[/URL] ($239.99 @ Newegg)
[B]CPU Cooler:[/B] [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2"]Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler[/URL] ($30.99 @ Amazon)
[B]Motherboard:[/B] [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-z97a"]Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard[/URL] ($142.99 @ NCIX US)
[B]Memory:[/B] [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-memory-bls2kit4g3d1609ds1s00"]Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory[/URL] ($72.98 @ OutletPC)
[B]Storage:[/B] [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te250bwbomdup"]Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive[/URL] ($199.99 @ Newegg)
[B]Video Card:[/B] [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-video-card-r9280xtdfd"]XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card[/URL] ($279.99 @ NCIX US)
[B]Power Supply:[/B] [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-s12ii620bronze"]SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply[/URL] ($71.30 @ Newegg)
[B]Operating System:[/B] [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-wn700578"]Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit)[/URL] ($94.99 @ NCIX US)
[B]Monitor:[/B] [URL="http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vg248qe"]Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor[/URL] ($249.23 @ Amazon)
[B]Total:[/B] $1382.45
[I](Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)[/I]
[I](Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-06-11 08:49 EDT-0400)[/I]
The Devil's Canyon i5 should last you for quite a while, and it has good overclocking potential. I've added a Hyper 212 EVO which should get you a decent overclock without an issue(4GHz<). If you need anything better, there's the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3, Noctua NH-D15 / D14(older) or the H100i for closed-loop watercooling. If you want to save money, you could buy non-overclockable parts in the form of a H-series chipset motherboard and a CPU without a -K appendix. You wouldn't need cooling in this case either.
I've added an SSD for your system boot drive, and you can add a 1TB Seagate Barracuda for more storage if you need it. If you want to save money, you could get a 120GB 840 EVO instead, even if i wouldn't recommend it.
The graphics card is a tiny bit better than Nvidia's 770 which is usually significantly more expensive, so i can't really recommend spending 100$+ just to be in the green camp. Depending on the prices in Finland it's really up to you. Decent brands to pick between are XFX for AMD, EVGA for nvidia, or ASUS/MSI/Gigabyte for either. There's really no reason to pay a lot extra for either brand, but XFX/EVGA would be the better choice at the same price level due to their warranty. If you want a more powerful graphics card, you could choose AMD's R9 290 or nvidia's 780, which again is slightly slower and probably more expensive.
Seasonic usually makes the best PSU's, but at a lower price level like this you could also get the Corsair CX600M if you can't find seasonic(or the various rebranded Seasonic PSU's). There's no real reason to pay extra for a higher efficiency PSU for this usage.
I added windows 8 because installing Start8/Classicshell/Similar makes it a smarter, faster win7 that works more intuitively without having to use the shoddy modernUI startscreen. It's your choice of course, but it genuinely is better(i haven't used the startscreen but i've had the OS ever since the launch sale)
I added a high refresh rate monitor with good latency. There's also the BenQ models that are usually a lot more expensive but a bit better. The difference between 144hz and 60hz is like night and day, especially if you enable 120hz lightboost(the panel refresh time goes from 33,3ms to below 9ms, 17ms on regular 144hz)
I used PCPartPicker to make the list, you can disregard the prices as they're from the US and significantly cheaper than you'll find in europe.
I'm going to wait for tomorrow, a technician is supposed to arrive and check things.
In the mean time, if anyone has other build suggestions, post them.
No one? I'm still having issues with my internet.
Surely you can come up with something?
Case, mobo, GPU, CPU, PSU, RAM, HDD etc.
Don't count the monitor in the budget itself.
Whatever we post is irrelevant, you need to give us a site you'll be buying from. Prices are usually around 25% more in Europe than in the US.
[url]www.tietokonekauppa.fi[/url]
[url]www.tietokonekauppa.fi/?lang=GB[/url]
It's in the same country and it's the biggest place. A friend got his new PC from there.
Couldn't solve internet problems so I might only be able to buy on Monday or later.
Hows this? I understand you already have an hdd. You could also buy a 1440p screen instead if you want to and have the extra money [url]http://tietokonekauppa.fi/cart/kori/?a=cart_set&citem=159074,163024,163858,161897,168507,147737,152746,157956,24775[/url]
And perhaps this screen for 1080p [url]http://tietokonekauppa.fi/product/153844/screen/ACER/V236HLbd+23%22WLED+Alog%26DVI+100M%3A1+6ms/[/url]
Seems alright.
Now, I'm gonna have a more in-depth look on Monday-Wednesday, since I can then get on a proper desktop. May have to get the final build ready for order by Wednesday if my home connection is not fixed by then.
[QUOTE=Lilyo;45085474]Hows this? I understand you already have an hdd. You could also buy a 1440p screen instead if you want to and have the extra money [url]http://tietokonekauppa.fi/cart/kori/?a=cart_set&citem=159074,163024,163858,161897,168507,147737,152746,157956,24775[/url]
And perhaps this screen for 1080p [url]http://tietokonekauppa.fi/product/153844/screen/ACER/V236HLbd+23%22WLED+Alog%26DVI+100M%3A1+6ms/[/url][/QUOTE]
This screen is a lot better: [URL]http://tietokonekauppa.fi/product/82763/screen/BENQ/24"+GL2450HM+2MS+(HDMI+DVI+VGA)+FLICKERFREE/[/URL]
and that 120GB SSD might get cramped pretty quickly
Okay, I got around looking at this again.
This is how it currently looks: [url]http://tietokonekauppa.fi/cart/kori/?a=cart_set&citem=159074,163024,163858,161897,168507,147737,24775,53142,79646,152752[/url]
There's a few things I need help with.
[B]SSD:[/B]
I switched the 120GB SSD to a 250GB.
1. Do I need the Desktop Kit or does a Basic come with everything needed?
2. Installing the OS on the SSD shouldn't be anything complicated, install SSD first, install OS, then HDDs?
[B]HDD:[/B]
I'm getting a new HDD, 2TB. I'm hoping that the old one still works so I can then move my old stuff to the SSD/HDD.
1. I'm not sure which one I should be getting. Is the current one good or should I get a different one? [url]http://tietokonekauppa.fi/type/Hard%2Bdrive/[/url]
2. On the PSU, it says 3 SATA connectors. Does that mean it comes with 3 or that it supports up to 3?
3. The old hard drive was partitioned into a 100GB C: and 900GB D: . Does this cause any problems or will they just appear as different drives again?
[B]CPU:[/B]
1. The current one seems like the best choice. It's out of stock but there's apparently a new shipment next week (26.6). Assuming they will have enough, it should be worth the wait?
2. What exactly does the BOX mean?
3. Do I need anything like thermal paste?
[B]OPTICAL DRIVE:[/B]
1. Should I get a new one? I might be able to get the one from the old PC but a new one doesn't seem that pricey either. Besides, I need one for the OS Installation anyway, don't I?
2. There's SATA and USB ones. Is there any major downside to a USB one? Is it possible to use one to install the OS? Or should I just get a SATA one?
I'll deal with the monitor/keyboard stuff another time.
Overall, is everything fine? Everything is compatible and should come with the cables and other things?
---
In other news, a new modem has arrived in the mail. I don't know yet if it's going to be enough to get my home internet working again.
Last time I tried to post from my phone, I couldn't post as it always led me to a Cloudflare page or something and couldn't get past that. I don't know if that problem still persists but if it does and my connection is still not working, I might not be able to post until tomorrow.
Anyway, if I can get everything clear, I might be able to order around Tuesday. I may have more questions after that.
SSD:
The desktop kit just includes a bracket to make it fit into 3,5" drive bays, which isn't necessary because most(if not all) new cases include support for 2,5" drives. It also includes some software that is useless or has lots of free alternatives.
You can put everything into your computer in one go, you just have to make sure to boot off of the windows installer and select to install the OS on the SSD
HDD:
The seagate is the best harddrive for your build. No reason to find another one.
I'm not entirely sure why the PSU says it has 3 SATA connectors, but it might be because each SATA cable comes with 3 connectors. The PSU comes with two SATA cables, meaning support for 6 SATA devices, and you should theoretically be able to buy one more cable and plug it in instead of the molex for 9 SATA unless theres some PSU quirk or voodoo magic preventing it(you shouldn't need 9 SATA cables anyway)
The old partitions will just appear as different drive letters, D: and E: or E: and F: or something like that.
You will have to go into windows harddrive/partition manager to format the 2TB before it will show up in windows explorer, so don't worry if it doesn't appear at first glance
CPU:
The 4690K is only released in 26.6, it's not out of stock. It should be worth the wait, but if you're impatient there won't be a difference between the 4670K and the 4690K unless you plan to do overclocking past 4,4GHz
The BOX just means it comes in a box, instead of a "tray" designed for mass purchases for prebuilt assemblies or something along those lines
The cooler comes with thermal paste, so it shouldn't be an issue, though it doesn't hurt to buy a TIM Kit or something along those lines for any future builds or changes
Optical drive:
It doesn't matter what optical drive you have, just use the old one if you won't need it anywhere. You don't really need it for OS installation because you can make an USB stick above 4GB into a windows installer, but the disc drive is the easiest option
USB disk drives are external, meaning you have to plug it in an USB port to use it, while SATA ones are internal and in a bay in the case.
I also noticed this case in the sidebar that barely costs any more but is better: [url]https://tietokonekauppa.fi/product/153443/[/url]
[url]www.tietokonekauppa.fi/cart/kori/?a=cart_set&citem=159074,163024,163858,147737,24775,53142,79646,153443,152747,152083[/url]
Changed the case, SSD from DK to Basic and downgraded CPU to 4670. Don't feel like delaying due to one component. 4670K is apparently better for overclocking but that's not on my mind at the moment.
Optical was secured.
Sound good?
4670 can't overclock at all which is a waste of money on the motherboard and cooler, and the 4670K is in stock right now, it's the 4690K that isn't
[url]http://tietokonekauppa.fi/product/152088/processor/INTEL/Core+i5-4670K+340GHz+6M+LGA1150+BOX/[/url]
Right, right. I'll switch it to 4670K. How about that?
I'd still recommend win8 over win7 because it's objectively better than win7 when you install a program like start8/classicshell that removes the modernUI touch interface
The interface works the same as win7 but has a few good extra functions(like right-clicking the start button corner), it's faster and it's a lot more intuitive for general tasks(the task manager is so much better and it isn't as naggy with popups and asking for confirmation about stuff with no consequences)
The only thing you can actually miss is transparent windows, but not having to be asked twice about shutting down programs in task manager or deleting empty folders(and it's generally better responsiveness) is worth it when it costs the same amount
Looks like that's that.
I'll probably order tomorow. I should be able to figure out the rest.
Thanks a lot for the help!
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.
