• Katana
    41 replies, posted
Just started working on this, going to make a Katana as a present for my Father's birthday next month, it'll have a 30" blade and be around 39-40" long once it's complete. Here's how it started out, a big coil spring, probably made of 5160 alloy steel, it's very very good stuff. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/qSpChIR.jpg[/img_thumb] Unwinding the coils. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/f2yDRnZ.jpg[/img_thumb] After unwinding enough of the coil I cut it off, nearly taking my hand off in the process and hammered the cutting straight. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/W7GKenW.jpg[/img_thumb] Next I'll be hammering it out with a sledgehammer until it's approaching the width and thickness I require, it will also grow several inches in length as it is flattened. This is VERY hard steel, the only thing I could find that was able to cut it was my big cutoff wheel. It'll also have a brass guard with hand cut engravings, possibly with come copper and silver inlay.
Wow, that looks ace so far. What are you thinking of making the handle from?
If I can get some ray skin it'll have an ash core with the ray skin covering and silk lace wrapping. If not, I may go with Ebony or Purpleheart, polished to a high sheen then wrapped with silk lace. Another option would be bone, I'll probably use the Ebony/Purpleheart though.
Done some more work on it, got about 1/3rd of the blade rough forged. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/8CI4gLX.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/jfqLVzo.jpg[/img_thumb] [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/tVfHNsj.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/vtL5DnR.jpg[/img_thumb]
Looking good, do you work as a blacksmith or something? You sound like you know your stuff.
I don't do much actual forging like this as work due to how long it takes to make even a small knife. I plan on building a power hammer soon so I'll probably start selling more knives and swords once I can get that built, then I can lower my price since it won't take a week to make a knife. One day I'll build a new forge capable of doing pattern welded blades, there's always a demand for those beauties. I plan on forging a Mainz Gladius next month, but I'll probably get some fancy wood for the grip tomorrow when I go to get some Ebony or Purpleheart for this Katana, I've decided not to bother with the ray skin. I just recently built an Armour Forge as well, I plan on forging a one piece Roman Gallic Type A helmet to sort of test the waters on that. Forged helmets aren't something you see very often anymore, most are made of several pieces welded together then ground smooth. The bulk of what I do is sheet metal and welding, though I do occasionally get requests for woodworking as well. I've got a CNC Plasma Cutter, I do most of my paid work with that. But basically I'm trying to get some more tools and machinery out there to make more complex work like this Katana more feasible as a full time deal. As it is I'm just barely going to scrape by on forging this sword before October comes around, if I hadn't cut my hand open I'd have more time. Oh well, all my best work has at least a little blood in it, this one just has a more than usual so I'll consider it good luck. If I can get the blade done in time I'll be in decent shape at least, the rest can be done with hand tools while on the road if necessary.
[QUOTE=RR_Raptor65;42231864] The bulk of what I do is sheet metal and welding, though I do occasionally get requests for woodworking as well. I've got a [B]CNC Plasma Cutter[/B], I do most of my paid work with that. But basically I'm trying to get some more tools and machinery out there to make more complex work like this Katana more feasible as a full time deal.[/QUOTE] Preeetttyyyy Pictures?
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/rcxPR.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/WsZk2.jpg[/img_thumb] [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/JnKa3.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/WJfvI9u.jpg[/img_thumb]
I don't know much about swords, but don't katanas have a softer inner core?
[QUOTE=Most wanteD;42244347]I don't know much about swords, but don't katanas have a softer inner core?[/QUOTE] No, you're thinking of a Cadbury Creme Egg.
[QUOTE=RR_Raptor65;42234989]Porn[/QUOTE] Gotta change pants now. How much was that/how did you get that?
[QUOTE=Most wanteD;42244347]I don't know much about swords, but don't katanas have a softer inner core?[/QUOTE] Yes, traditionally the Katana is made of different grades of steel, high carbon for the edge and low carbon for the spine, though often a medium carbon is used as well. The idea behind it is the same as with pattern welded (Often called Damascus) blades. This is where the Katana gets it's strength when made traditionally, the high carbon steel at the edge gives the sword it's sharpness and edge holding, but it is not very good on it's own, the low and medium carbon steels help support it, the softer metals giving the sword flexibility so it won't break so easily. They're also coated in a thick clay and water hardened in such a way that the spine of the sword cools slower than the edge, resulting in a very hard edge and a soft and flexible spine, this method is also what creates the distinctive curve in the blade. I'll be doing something similar with this sword. However what I have here is 5160 alloy steel, this is a modern material which did not exist back then. This stuff is VERY good even on it's own, it'll be just as good if not better than a traditional laminated blade. Modern alloy steel is REALLY good stuff, it's very clean and has properties that would have made the old Japanese swordsmiths jealous. One day I'll have the tools to do a proper laminated blade as I've already mentioned, I'd love to get into pattern welded blades as well. By comparison, making steel approaching the quality of modern steel back then was a very very long and expensive process, and the Japanese did not have access to large quantities of iron. But the best steels we're capable of producing today are virtually unmatched by even the best steel back then. [QUOTE=S31-Syntax;42245784]Gotta change pants now. How much was that/how did you get that?[/QUOTE] It was a surprise gift from my Grandmother a few years ago, was $12,000 including the plasma cutter itself.
[img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/97EieFQ.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/lQ7AUzc.jpg[/img_thumb] Almost done forging, gonna finish running the edge then do another pass over it to run that edge down some. Some straightening is in order too, it's not far off from where I intend for it to be when I go to temper it. When I do so it'll curve some more so it's best to reduce the amount of curve before tempering. Also picked up some Gaboon Ebony and some blue lace. Also there is some copper plate I had laying around, it'll be the Tsuba (Guard), I'm gonna run some steel around the edge of it though. The copper will be easy to engrave. The rest of the copper will be used to forge the Habaki, which is the wedge in front of the Tsuba, it keeps the blade from sitting loosely in the Saya (Scabbard) and is why people do that characteristic 'pop' using their thumb when drawing the sword. I've never forged copper before so I'm looking forward to it.
awh, i was secretly hoping you'd go with the purpleheart. anyway i'm sure it will look great! [QUOTE=Ricool06;42244574]No, you're thinking of a Cadbury Creme Egg.[/QUOTE] imo best post 2013
I am so insanely envious of your forge [editline]23rd September 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=Most wanteD;42244347]I don't know much about swords, but don't katanas have a softer inner core?[/QUOTE] That process is only when you're starting from an iron bloom or something and working it into pattern welded steel This spring is straight up rolled homogenous steel, makes the idea of pattern welding obsolete when your metal is already really hard and really flexible.
Exactly right, this modern alloy steel does the same job as the traditional Japanese steel without a lengthy lamination process. And yes, this steel is VERY hard even annealed as it is, none of my files will bite into it. The first grinds are in. I got some zirconia alumina sanding belts coming soon, in the mean time I'm gonna make the Tsuba. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/DyJvX7B.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/iom0NLm.jpg[/img_thumb] I've also changed my plans for the Tsuba, it'll be made from 3/16" steel, then edged with brass and engraved, with two rosettes riveted on.
Cut the Tsuba. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/ymD4bCU.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/AdbqkNG.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/bDmR3YM.jpg[/img_thumb] The two dimples are where the rosettes will be.
Applied the brass edging to the Tsuba. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/4DoyKMn.jpg[/img_thumb] My fingers hurt.
Grinding continues. One side left to go and I can start grinding the edge flats in. Once the zircon belts get here I can hopefully make faster progress on this, I have only 8 days left to get this done. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/xYMOOrj.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/ymV8yIs.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/khoOFuM.jpg[/img_thumb]
Looks really fucking neat now
The zircon belts came last night so I was able to finish all the grinding in like 2 hours. There's something to be said for having the right tools. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/dZ0TUD7.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/uMFF6nN.jpg[/img_thumb] Tonight I'll make the Habaki, should be fun working the copper, then I'll fit the guard as well and this weekend I'll be able to polish the blade up ready for tempering. I decided to take the blade to a spring shop and have them temper it rather than try to stick it in the forge and blast the bits that stick out with a flamethrower. Then I won't have to go nuts with a huge oil quench tank too, not yet anyway. I'll have time to deal with building more equipment this winter.
So it goes from that brushed look to a decent polish, then tempering, and the blade is done? Or is there more finishing after that? This is all quite fascinating.
It'll get polished some more before tempering. You want the metal to be as smooth and without scratches as possible, like scratched glass it will break where it's been scratched. Once it's been tempered I'll polish it once more to remove the discoloration and oxidation, by then it'll be ready for final assembly. The Habaki is almost done, copper is indeed lots of fun to forge. I just have to do the final grinding and filing then fit the Tsuba to the blade and do the final assembly on that as well. Then it'll be time to move on to the Tsuka (Grip/handle) itself. I'm not entirely sure how I want to go after carving the Ebony, I'll have to try a few different things, I want to try and avoid milling it if I can so the inlet will match the blade as closely as possible, my version of a mill isn't exactly the greatest thing for accuracy. I also have to make the Seppa, which is a pair of fancy washers that go on either side of the Tsuba, and the Fuchi which is a cup-shaped collar that will keep the two halves of the Tsuka from separating, and the Kashira which is the butt cap/pommel. After that the whole sword is basically held together by one pin called the Mekugi, usually made of Bamboo but I'll be using Hickory instead. With the sword done I'll make the Saya, I'll be using Maple for the bulk of it, with Ebony caps at either end, and an Ebony belt loop on the side. The inlet for the Saya is another one of those things that needs to be fairly accurate, the blade inlet can be squared off it seems but the throat needs to be properly fitted to the Habaki or the blade will sit loose when it should be tight enough when fully seated in the Saya that it won't fall out when turned upside down or jostled, it wouldn't have been very socially acceptable to bow to someone and have your sword fall out.
Finished the Habaki, there's still a few minor cosmetic changes I'll make at final assembly, namely rounding off the front so it doesn't gouge the Saya and giving it a proper polish. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/P0AKOaq.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/Wu6wNg5.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/G3eLMVD.jpg[/img_thumb]
Do you possibly plan on trying to do some engraving on the blade Raptor?
No, I'd need some carbide gravers for that I expect, I really can't put enough emphasis on how hard this steel is, it's extremely difficult to do anything to it, files have a hard time cutting it and they end up blunt very quickly, aluminum oxide belts end up blunted within a few seconds too, that's why I had to get those Zircon belts so the belts would stay sharp long enough to grind the blade. I'd rather keep the blade smooth anyway, it'll be polished to just short of a mirror shine. Also, engraving a sword blade is a very bad idea if you want the sword to be functional. Metal is not unlike glass believe it or not, it's just more flexible. Any scratches or lines which are perpendicular to the edge of the blade are weak spots, like glass it will break there first. This applies to all blades and all springs, a good sword blade is little more than a sharp spring. All lines must run parallel with the edge so when the sword flexes the lines don't develop stress points which eventually lead to a broken blade. Knives tend to be harder than swords and thus sharper, but this comes at a cost as the knife will be very brittle and it wouldn't take much to snap the blade off, swords are so long that if you tempered one like a knife and then hit something with it you would definitely snap the blade in half. I could engrave the Habaki but I don't want it to hold oil, I'll be using Maple and the wood can soak in excess oil on the Habaki causing the wood to swell up and then you can't draw the sword without a mallet. Got the Tsuba fitted now too, now for the Seppa and Fuchi. After that, the Tsuka and Kashira. Once the hilt is assembled I'll drill the Mekugi-Ana, the hole for the Mekugi. But first I need to get the blade polished and ready for tempering, hopefully I can get it polished tonight and ready to be tempered by tomorrow, thankfully it's not a very wide blade so there's not as much material to remove, it's just long. When I take it to get it tempered I'll snag some Maple for the Saya as well, I'll be using some Aquafortis and Linseed oil for the finish, maybe I'll be able to get some figured Maple, that would be quite a sight on a Katana. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/7j39dke.jpg[/img_thumb]
Great work! I'm fascinated.
Been working like crazy today as it's the last day before I leave. Got the sword back from the spring shop today just in time, made the Fuchi and Kashira then carved and fitted the ebony handle to the sword. Due to time constraints there will be no Seppa made for this sword, though they're such minor parts I don't think they'll be missed. [img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/lWySeto.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/gK7vZ0o.jpg[/img_thumb][img_thumb]http://i.imgur.com/oQffuca.jpg[/img_thumb] All that's left is the final shaping of the grip, drill the Mekugi-ana, make the Mekugi and drill the rest of the way through the Kashira for the grip wrap to go through the wood. I'll probably end up polishing the blade tomorrow, it's definitely gonna be close and there will be no time at all to make the Saya.
You sir, are not just a simple metallurgist, you are an artist.
I was able to finish the sword just in time, and wrapped the grip after I got to California. Also I accidentally cut myself while doing the final fitting of the grip, guess the sword decided it didn't have enough of my blood in it. I also brought my Type 99 Arisaka with me so there's some pics of it with that just because. [Url=http://i.imgur.com/4ki1Ko2.jpg][Img]http://i.imgur.com/4ki1Ko2l.jpg[/Img][/Url][Url=http://i.imgur.com/PWwSQYk.jpg][Img]http://i.imgur.com/PWwSQYkl.jpg[/Img][/Url] [Url=http://i.imgur.com/KO6F9kq.jpg][Img]http://i.imgur.com/KO6F9kql.jpg[/Img][/Url][Url=http://i.imgur.com/TWcl4gi.jpg][Img]http://i.imgur.com/TWcl4gil.jpg[/Img][/Url] [Url=http://i.imgur.com/7IquwuG.jpg][Img]http://i.imgur.com/7IquwuGl.jpg[/Img][/Url][Url=http://i.imgur.com/uBADkwT.jpg][Img]http://i.imgur.com/uBADkwTl.jpg[/Img][/Url]
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.