E38 radio not working - General

Why heller! As you know I'm quite handy with the radios and such...... But have NO clue on the BMW's audio technical boogaloo. Heres the sich. My friend has a 1995 BMW 740i with the DSP system, and the radio no is working.... Heres some further info. At first, me not usually working on these classy automobiles, and my friend never using the radio cause he just got the car from his boss with the broken radio, both thought the volume knob was broken, (so it was all the way down and we couldnt turn it up), because when you turned the knob no reading came up (like a volume number like 26, 27... etc), so we bought a new MID. Obviously I derped when I realized the volume knob doesn't really read anything on the display, its just a.... volume knob. So now we know the problem is not the volume being stuck, rather an internal problem. And of course we're dealing with a BMW with a DSP system, so this is likely to get fun! Some more info. The DSP screen is black. Nothing shows up on it. Sooo..... maybe its just the DSP unit is broken? But isn't that intergrated in the amp in the back? And could it just be the [b][i]screen itself[/i][/b] thats broken, because the car suffers from the imfamous black pixel problem, and lots of the screens are very hard to read/choppy. But on all the other damaged screens, the backlight is atleast on. This DSP screen is black, off. I just feel like replacing this small screen wont do anything cause its just the screen, controlled by something else... Or is it? Is the DSP unit in there, and could I replace the screen to fix it? Or......... Basically, I'm not asking for you to "Helpes me fix the sownd," because loads of butthurt would, indeed, ensue there. I'm asking for some diagnostic points here, what to look for, what commonly goes wrong in these ol' E38's, or really anything using a simmilar DSP system in simmilar cars around the same year. What could be causing this to happen? Everything else works. Tape deck works. You can put a tape in, fast forward, rewind, you can tune into an AM/FM station, play CD's in the 6CD changer. So everything is getting power. Next time I see the car I'm gonna pull out the amp and check the power and all that, make sure its turning on. Cause it seems like all the functions of the radio are working, there just isn't any sound, and the DSP screen is pitch black. HALP!!!!!!!!! Oh [img]http://s15.postimg.org/sgu8h92az/Hehhadoodidly.png[/img] Btw, please help me cause hes selling the car and the easier and better the fixes I do for him the more likely chance he'll basically give it to me so I can fix er' up and lower er' down nicely because my civic is getting quite....... Actually I like my civic but I'd rather an E38 and have the leftover money for one.

10/10 for "Doo dad's" Anyway 20$ says a hidden fuse that is in no-mans land is the issue. [editline]fkgn[/editline] If my Audi has un-documented fuses inside the fuse panel, on the back of the deck, in-line with power to the amp, on the inside of the amp, and on the inside of the cd-changer. BMW is bound to do the exact same thing, Now those fuses most NEVER go out unless theirs a massive issue but hell once you figure out what happened she will be good as new and your be listening to a radio that is 20x better than most radio's equipped in cars today.

[QUOTE=DPKiller;41816751]10/10 for "Doo dad's" Anyway 20$ says a hidden fuse that is in no-mans land is the issue. [editline]fkgn[/editline] If my Audi has un-documented fuses inside the fuse panel, on the back of the deck, in-line with power to the amp, on the inside of the amp, and on the inside of the cd-changer. BMW is bound to do the exact same thing, Now those fuses most NEVER go out unless theirs a massive issue but hell once you figure out what happened she will be good as new and your be listening to a radio that is 20x better than most radio's equipped in cars today.[/QUOTE] FUCK. I forgot to mention that I thought it was a fuse! I didn't have the chance to take a peek cause I was checking it out before work, I picked his car up before but was running out of time. I popped the hood but couldn't find the fuse panel and didnt have time to look up its location, but I had a feeling it was a fuse, forgot to mention. Good to hear a second on that. I'm definitely gonna look, I had a feeling it was strange every other unit worked other than the DSP screen. Oh and there are undocumented fuses- right when you pull the tape deck out, the harness has a fuse right on it. The amp also has some fuses on the harness too. I'm thinking im just gonna go for broke and just check the whole wiring. My thinking is that I'll completely "gut" the audio system, check everything twice, and if I still cant figure it out, I'll already have everything taken apart to just throw in a new amp, head unit and wiring and just part out the DSP system for what works and get my friend some cash..... And he can consider that my pay for the car.... I guess. Lol. Besides, the dead pixels all over make the dash fugly, and even if I got the radio to work the MID unit is so unreadable and the backlight cuts off at places.... Its a nice car and I love the old e38's but damn once the dash goes to shit it goes to shit.

I'd replace that POS with aftermarket, personally :) Haha but yea that'd be too easy. [url]http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3399/kw/7%20series/session/L3RpbWUvMTM3NjM1Nzk4NS9zaWQvYWNscGZEeGw%3D[/url] Is this what you have behind the deck? ^^^^^ Or is it something more heinous? If it *is* that, check that white remote wire.. at the headunit and at the amp. If it's got 12v, great, it's powering up the amp, if not, then you need to go from there. At the amp of course check for pwr and gnd. Nothing crazy. If the remote / pwr/ gnd are all present, now check for AC speaker signal. Check the inputs right at the amp itself. If your'e getting AC voltage at the input pairs, then you know the amp is bad. If you're NOT getting AC voltage at the input pairs, the deck itself isn't outputting anything. At this point it's buy and install an aftermarket one, or else buy and install more used factory parts (that dont' feature cool ipod inputs and stuff) As far as how this headunit works, unless it's something I haven't run into before, there's nothing crazy about it. It's simple AC voltage for speaker signal to the amp in 4 channels, and 12v remote to trigger it. This is before stuff got weird with fiber optics and data control. The cool thing is even if you guy everything and decide to go 4ch amp, you have a bunch of wiring run from the trunk to the radio cavity in the form of factory wires, and a bunch run from the amp to the speakers. Makes life easy!

[QUOTE=clutch2;41817256]I'd replace that POS with aftermarket, personally :) Haha but yea that'd be too easy. [url]http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3399/kw/7%20series/session/L3RpbWUvMTM3NjM1Nzk4NS9zaWQvYWNscGZEeGw%3D[/url] Is this what you have behind the deck? ^^^^^ Or is it something more heinous? If it *is* that, check that white remote wire.. at the headunit and at the amp. If it's got 12v, great, it's powering up the amp, if not, then you need to go from there. At the amp of course check for pwr and gnd. Nothing crazy. If the remote / pwr/ gnd are all present, now check for AC speaker signal. Check the inputs right at the amp itself. If your'e getting AC voltage at the input pairs, then you know the amp is bad. If you're NOT getting AC voltage at the input pairs, the deck itself isn't outputting anything. At this point it's buy and install an aftermarket one, or else buy and install more used factory parts (that dont' feature cool ipod inputs and stuff) As far as how this headunit works, unless it's something I haven't run into before, there's nothing crazy about it. It's simple AC voltage for speaker signal to the amp in 4 channels, and 12v remote to trigger it. This is before stuff got weird with fiber optics and data control. The cool thing is even if you guy everything and decide to go 4ch amp, you have a bunch of wiring run from the trunk to the radio cavity in the form of factory wires, and a bunch run from the amp to the speakers. Makes life easy![/QUOTE] Yeah. I already checked the grounds, the amp IS getting power, and the remote wire is working. Didn't check the inputs though cause I didnt know which ones they were, and still thought the volume knob was broken so assumed that I wouldnt get accurate results since it'd be 0. Gonna check that next. I do believe the amp is powering though, but need to check inputs. I never checked any fuses though. And yes thats the exact pin for the deck. I was talking to my friend, too, and he said if we are replacing the radio he wants a double din, which is easily possible since we'll be taking out the MID, DSP screen and original deck since they will no longer be needed, and I can craft a rack for the double din. I did something simmilar to an older 300C but this will be waaaay easier since the 300C required cutting a hole for the double din in the plastic to put it in, whilst the BMW doesn't have a plastic facia needing to be cut like the 300C because the radio and climate "elements" or "decks" make the facia. Definitely will post a mini log in the GD section if I do. And then I just need to make a simple fiberglass plate to surround it, and since this old beamer is flat there its literally just a plate. Couldn't get any simpler and it will look bad ass. If this was mine I'd so do a tesla model S style screen in there but... It might be soon! Thanks for the input! More things to check. I better be getting a mean discount on this beamer when he sells it if I decide to buy it... Which I really am!

Yea man! That metering of the inputs will narrow it down then for sure. DDIN would be a fun time.. just difficult enough to feel good when it's all finished up, but not impossible by any means 8) [editline]13th August 2013[/editline] Sensual! [url]http://www.fxaudio.net/assets/images/00%20BMW%20740il/pictures%20087.jpg[/url] Here's some chat about them doing some stuff and all that [url]http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1934944-Double-DIN-Install[/url]

[QUOTE=clutch2;41817760]Yea man! That metering of the inputs will narrow it down then for sure. DDIN would be a fun time.. just difficult enough to feel good when it's all finished up, but not impossible by any means 8) [editline]13th August 2013[/editline] Sensual! [url]http://www.fxaudio.net/assets/images/00%20BMW%20740il/pictures%20087.jpg[/url] Here's some chat about them doing some stuff and all that [url]http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1934944-Double-DIN-Install[/url][/QUOTE] HoDAMN I like that! Lol fuck it I should just tell him I'm buyin the damn car and do the install now while we're fixing her up. LOL. And next to the DDin (unless there is something there in the way behind) I could put a slot for my phone and if I am to get the car and put my tc-3000 in it a bass knob and volt meter and my god I better not think about it too much or else I'll be overly dissapointed if I don't get the car... lol. Oh god I just gotta focus myself on seeing if we need a new radio or not in the first place. THEN I can obsess over a DDin haha :v:

[QUOTE=DPKiller;41816751]10/10 for "Doo dad's" Anyway 20$ says a hidden fuse that is in no-mans land is the issue. [editline]fkgn[/editline] If my Audi has un-documented fuses inside the fuse panel, on the back of the deck, in-line with power to the amp, on the inside of the amp, and on the inside of the cd-changer. BMW is bound to do the exact same thing, Now those fuses most NEVER go out unless theirs a massive issue but hell once you figure out what happened she will be good as new and your be listening to a radio that is 20x better than most radio's equipped in cars today.[/QUOTE] Amp is getting power, input, and actually the CD player sends it optical signal too, so its even getting that (I guess before BMW had full optical it was just for CD's (makes sense since its the highest quality/bit rate)) There is even a fuse for that DSP monitor, its working. Although the DSP monitor isnt turning on even with a good fuse. Anyone know if that display is controlled by the amp? Or is it controlled by its own processor. Cause if the display was working but there was no sound I'd say blown amp. But the fact the DSP display isn't on makes it seem really complicated. Cause if its controlled by itself then there is an issue somewhere deep within the brain of the car. But if its controlled by the amp (the display gets its info from the amp) then its just a simple swap. Either way gonna order a new amp and send it back if it still doesnt work and drop a new amp and HU in there and use the DSP screen and MID screen as a paperweight. On a side note anyone here ever attempt a headliner repair? Some say its real easy some say its extremely hard. Guess it depends on the car. The beamers headliner is sagging a good foot LOL. And somehow I didnt manage to notice that until I sat in the back today haha. The tan sunroof carpeting is completely moldy too and is a huge eyesore.

Headliner spray adhesive is a nice quick fix for saggy headliners. Pulling the whole thing out and redoing it would probably look nicer though.

[QUOTE=Del91;41829009]Headliner spray adhesive is a nice quick fix for saggy headliners. Pulling the whole thing out and redoing it would probably look nicer though.[/QUOTE] Yeah I'm not sure if hes going to do it before he sells it or if he'll just sell it with it like that and if I take it I'll probably just redo it because like I said around the sunroof there is some molding, which makes me fear its leaking a bit. Thats not too major though.

Grrr. Tearing my hair out over just what the heck those 4 wires at the DSP screen are/ where they go. Apparently I've never worked on the DSP system in these cars, cuz this stuff is new to me. Only worked on the amplified system. Give this a read: [url]http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/137684[/url] From what I'm seeing.. this radio is self configuring based upon what amp it's connected to (DSP or non).. so if you were to connect a non-dsp amp, it would change it's behaviour to that of a normal 4ch analog dynamic volume output (vs a 2ch fixed volume output with all volume/fad/bal options being controlled via the data K-line). It's pretty interesting stuff... if you were to replace the DSP amp with a non DSP amp, the display not working would become a moot point.. and supposedly you could still use the CD changer, but would have to change from the digital coax connection to the analog 2 plug version. I still really really really wanna know what provides info for the DSP display, though. Check out the amp and the radio's connectors to see if those 4 wires from the DSP display are present?? I missed it, did you replace the DSP screen, or no?

the DSP systems are just a pain in the ass I would rip out the whole thing and replace it with the MKIV 16:9 nav system from the 01 like I have makes the whole thing 10x as sexy imo [editline]14th August 2013[/editline] also welcome to the elite club of Sobek- and I (that is if you purchase this wondrous thing that is an E38)

[QUOTE=clutch2;41831194]Grrr. Tearing my hair out over just what the heck those 4 wires at the DSP screen are/ where they go. Apparently I've never worked on the DSP system in these cars, cuz this stuff is new to me. Only worked on the amplified system. Give this a read: [url]http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/137684[/url] From what I'm seeing.. this radio is self configuring based upon what amp it's connected to (DSP or non).. so if you were to connect a non-dsp amp, it would change it's behaviour to that of a normal 4ch analog dynamic volume output (vs a 2ch fixed volume output with all volume/fad/bal options being controlled via the data K-line). It's pretty interesting stuff... if you were to replace the DSP amp with a non DSP amp, the display not working would become a moot point.. and supposedly you could still use the CD changer, but would have to change from the digital coax connection to the analog 2 plug version. I still really really really wanna know what provides info for the DSP display, though. Check out the amp and the radio's connectors to see if those 4 wires from the DSP display are present?? I missed it, did you replace the DSP screen, or no?[/QUOTE] Beleive me I was sitting in the car for a good hour staring at those wires coming from the DSP to try and figure out what they do. And spent another hour researching to no avail. I love beamers, but it doesn't seem like pinout/color codes are as readily available as my civic where I dont even have to research to find it :P No I didnt replace the DSP screen, just the MID when I thought it was just a broken volume knob. DSP screen is original, and I dont think its powering up at all. Cause the screens backlight doesnt even come on, nor does the little red light in the corner. I checked EVERY fuse that could have anything to do with that screen *including the fuse that is dedicated just to that screen* and they were all perfect, I even swapped in new ones since I have a bin filled with every fuse you can imagine (lets just say I blow fuses a lot haha) My friends dads friend said he was a 7 series amp hes gonna give them. Although my friend didnt ask if it was dsp or non dsp. We'll see I guess, if its a DSP it'll be perfect, either the system will work or not, and if it still doesn't work I'm just putting a whole new system completely in there. [editline]14th August 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=dbk21894;41832265]the DSP systems are just a pain in the ass I would rip out the whole thing and replace it with the MKIV 16:9 nav system from the 01 like I have makes the whole thing 10x as sexy imo [editline]14th August 2013[/editline] also welcome to the elite club of Sobek- and I (that is if you purchase this wondrous thing that is an E38)[/QUOTE] I wouldn't mind the NAV system but I'd much rather just do an aftermarket system all together and a custom face plate like I said. 800 bucks for a nav system that I'd have to wire all into the cars electronics, wire new beamer nav equiptment in, and isn't that nav system DSP anyways? Or I guess there is the non dsp version, but that would require a non dsp amp too. Its definitely a project I could do and wouldn't mind doing and it would look fantastic, but for the sake of money and what not I'd rather do a double din, or if my friend is doing it on his budget he'll just do a single din. And if we're doing it on my budget, just being able to afford an e38 would be a chore itself, let alone buying a whole nav system. I'd love it but don't think its too good an idea atm. We'll see though!

If there's one thing I can say about euro wiring diagrams... is I hate reading those. Asian/ American diagrams are soo much easier.

[QUOTE=clutch2;41842164]If there's one thing I can say about euro wiring diagrams... is I hate reading those. Asian/ American diagrams are soo much easier.[/QUOTE] Yeah which is quite odd since the Germans are damn thorough with their work I don't quite get why their diagrams don't reflect that. And don't get me started on volkswagen - their diagrams pretty much explain the computers dying on their cars.... I don't even think they understand the diagrams :v: But yeah seems like my EM2 civic wins the contest in ease of modification/understanding of systems (whatever few systems are in that car) cause everything is easily ready and easy to understand.

Personally, I dislike aftermarket head units in cars like the e38, but that's just my opinion.

[QUOTE=dbk21894;41848791]Personally, I dislike aftermarket head units in cars like the e38, but that's just my opinion.[/QUOTE] Just the way they look or???? Of course though I do agree - the OEM nav system (MKIV 16:9) does have a very elegant elite feel to it that those e38's have, and they do look better than just a single din in the upper corner with a DSP and MID that don't do anything but it is expensive. And while it still won't look as classy, it would be real easy to take out the dsp monitor, mid, and then put a double din in there with a custom fiberglass faceplate since the whole radio section is essentially flat. That would save a little bit of cash and hastle with the wiring. And me being into car audio upgrading, having an aftermarket unit would allow me to use my 3 sixty.3 for equilization, which by far beats any older dsp or whatever equilization the oem systems use. Either way I'm definitely gonna keep my eye out for a good priced MKIV unit because I wouldn't mind that at all. Also just pulled off a door panel to fix the rear passenger side doors window track and found that the woofer has foam rot. So gonna have to order some new surrounds for all those drivers and do that too.

Just keep in mind the bits behind the center vents - there is a large section that protrudes into the space causing most of it to be unusable without cutting it out, and ruining the airflow into the cabin. Also that is where the fans are. It's REALLY hard to do an aftermarket unit properly in these cars.

[QUOTE=dbk21894;41850359]Just keep in mind the bits behind the center vents - there is a large section that protrudes into the space causing most of it to be unusable without cutting it out, and ruining the airflow into the cabin. Also that is where the fans are. It's REALLY hard to do an aftermarket unit properly in these cars.[/QUOTE] Yeah I'm aware about the AC ducts in the way, but the few people who attempted it have either cut out the space and patched it to fit, or heated and bent it. I'm sure it decreased airflow, but based on these peoples accounts not bad at all. However, since I have a sound processor (the 3sixty.3) I was thinking of doing a raspberri pi carputer (and addons like this [url]http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1312527055/raspberry-pi-car-power-supply-ignition-switch[/url] make it more than [b][i]safetly[/i][/b] possible, and then I could just use a small LCD display that isn't deep as compared to a full double din, and it would be heaps cheaper.

Why replace the foams instead of just replacing the speakers homie? The carputer idea is cool.. always thought it'd be neat to have one but technology's had to catch up so boot times are quick enough, and they're probably about there by now.

[QUOTE=clutch2;41867232]Why replace the foams instead of just replacing the speakers homie? The carputer idea is cool.. always thought it'd be neat to have one but technology's had to catch up so boot times are quick enough, and they're probably about there by now.[/QUOTE] Cheapness since theres like 8 drivers in there all which would need to be replaced. Foam replacement would be much cheaper, and the drivers already in the car are actually quite decent and I've heard they sound good. The raspberry pi has VERY quick bootup times, which depends on the device (memory stick, SD) the bootup is on, and what bootup stuff is loaded. Shouldn't be more than like 40 seconds to 1 minute until the whole device is useable.