• How can I fix up this rust on my Cavalier?
    13 replies, posted
I've seen a lot of rusted out Sunfires and Cavaliers around here (Wooo road salt), so I'd like to keep my 04' from getting too bad. Some pictures of the problem areas: [t]http://i.imgur.com/TWdXpys.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/oYxFVbZ.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/7hczlvF.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/pPLIK72.jpg[/t] [t]http://i.imgur.com/dEvcIlH.jpg[/t] All the spots feel solid, so I think it there's some good metal under it. I went to Canadian Tire today for some other stuff and picked up some Dupli-Color Perfect Match in the right color of GM silver, some Dupli-Color grey sandable primer, a 3" diameter wire brush attachment (I'll have a drill available, but it might be possible to get my hands on a grinder), 600 grit sandpaper and some automotive painting tape. I haven't done any body work before, so any videos or instructions would be appreciated. I'm not too sure about the primer I got, would it be better if I returned that and got some self-etching stuff? I also saw some chemicals that claimed to remove rust, should I buy some of that? Basically, I want this car to last me at least another 3-4 years without having to throw a fuckton of money at it. It doesn't have to look very pretty, if it looks decent from 15-20 feet away I'll be ecstatic.
A quick how to on fixing spots, as long as the metal is solid; Wirebrush/sand until youve got as much rust gone as possible. Be sure to go around corners, sand back paint until all around the spot has no rust. Then, sand with a finer grit (i usually stop at 320 grit before painting, the higher the number the finer the grit.) Buy a decent Rust Converter or Rust Protecter, Krylon and Rustoleum make some. Try to find one the same brand and type as the paint youre going to use to make sure theyre compatible. Usually, they work as a primer as well. So basically, spray it on as you would a primer, then let it sit for as long as the can says. After that, you spray your paint on top, then clear coat if you want
The shit thing about doors... the pinch-panel design holds water (lots if the drain holes plug) and that starts that rust. It's really, really hard to get rid of, because it starts from the valley inside the door and works its way up on the inside where the outer door skin is pinched around. So even if you knock off all the visible rust, there's more where the two door skins and pinched where they meet. There's not 'best' way to fix that... hit it with a wire wheel, or flap disc if you really want to dig deep. It'll dig deep. There's usually a line of panel bond where the two panels meet, too. That'll get blown away, no worries. Once you have it as darn good as possible hit it with the clean, prep, and seal with some POR15. It's worked good for me before. That'll seal it about as good as possible, short of cutting metal out and replacing it. That's really all you can do for the doors. For the fenders, pull those, and hit the rusty spots with the wire wheel. That's surface rust there. in the top pic for sure. The bottom pic might be through. If it is through you can replace the fender, or cut weld and body work it smooth again. Now feather that area out with some 200 grit paper or so... then seal/prime that are with bare metal. Then sand the whole panel will 400, then base and clear it. Once you get to bare metal, depending on the integrity of that bare metal you may want to seal with some por15 before sealer/primer.. but only if it's all pitted up. Just to be safe. That's how I'd deal with it. truth be told one of my doors on my daily is starting that shit on the bottom... sad days. Gonna ham on some POR and call it a day.
You could probably buy a new cavalier for the price of fixin it.
[QUOTE=A_Pigeon;41946235]You could probably buy a new cavalier for the price of fixin it.[/QUOTE] I only had to restore 1 spot of rust on mine, but ive seen them go for ~$2500 around me depending on condition obv. I got lucky though and paid scrap price because the dude needed it gone and all it needed was a radiator. I didnt do the best job but in person nobody has noticed unless I told them where I restored it (inside drivers door jam and on the bottom of the quarter panel in the back) [t]http://i.imgur.com/KLkB2sph.jpg[/t] On the topic of fixing it, I cut out the rust, pop rivited some sheet metal, welded it and got to work with bondo.
[QUOTE=Stiveno;41947952]I got lucky though and paid scrap price[/QUOTE] [i]"got lucky"[/i]
[QUOTE=Stiveno;41947952]I only had to restore 1 spot of rust on mine, but ive seen them go for ~$2500 around me depending on condition obv. I got lucky though and paid scrap price because the dude needed it gone and all it needed was a radiator. [/QUOTE] An '02 Cavalier, 140-160k miles, in good shape, goes for ~1500 here :v If theyre in perfect shape, and sold by a maniac, i see them as high as 3000 This is a southern state too, no rust. And as far as if he could buy another Cavalier for how much itd cost to fix that rust, well, if he left the rust alone/just sprayed over it and it rotted threw, and took it to a shop for a quote, i bet itd be pretty near the cost of a cheaper Cavalier. Ive seen a few times on Subarus that had bad rust, the rear quarter panels alone get quoted 1000+ to fix
[QUOTE=bradley;41948066][i]"got lucky"[/i][/QUOTE] You're right buying a car cheap, driving and enjoying it, then selling it for more later is shit luck. I should just crush it. [editline]24th August 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=FordLord;41948332]An '02 Cavalier, 140-160k miles, in good shape, goes for ~1500 here :v If theyre in perfect shape, and sold by a maniac, i see them as high as 3000 This is a southern state too, no rust. And as far as if he could buy another Cavalier for how much itd cost to fix that rust, well, if he left the rust alone/just sprayed over it and it rotted threw, and took it to a shop for a quote, i bet itd be pretty near the cost of a cheaper Cavalier. Ive seen a few times on Subarus that had bad rust, the rear quarter panels alone get quoted 1000+ to fix[/QUOTE] You have a good point, I was just saying that they aren't worthless.
The right way would be cutting out the metal and welding a new piece in, thought I don't have the time, skill or resources for that. If I can get through a few years and not have it look like total shit because of rust, I'll be pretty happy. Will rust converter and the matching paint I bought work for that or should I return the stuff and get my $50 back?
[QUOTE=benjgvps;41951770]The right way would be cutting out the metal and welding a new piece in, thought I don't have the time, skill or resources for that. If I can get through a few years and not have it look like total shit because of rust, I'll be pretty happy. Will rust converter and the matching paint I bought work for that or should I return the stuff and get my $50 back?[/QUOTE] Like i said, as long as the metal is solid, you can sand/wire brush as much rust off as possible, then use the rust converter and paint. Thatd last a while, depending on how much rust you get off, it could be as much as a permanent fix
[QUOTE=FordLord;41953250]Like i said, as long as the metal is solid, you can sand/wire brush as much rust off as possible, then use the rust converter and paint. Thatd last a while, depending on how much rust you get off, it could be as much as a permanent fix[/QUOTE] Perfect, I'll give that a shot then.
Yea, for the cheap and good-as-you-can-without-going-hard kind of fix brush it, seal it with converter or POR15.. a little body filler if necessary, and blend with matching rattle cans
On the 240, I sanded as much of the surface rust as possible until no rust was left. Then I just sprayed it all with a good rust preventative primer and left it like that lol. I'm going to wait for a proper body shop one day to fix all that
Just buy a sunfire and get twice the dbag street cred.
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