Basically, was playing Bad Company 2, this is normal, I've got like 182 hours or so of it, I havn't pushed up the settings or anything since install...
As I was playing, computer shut itself off, just turned straight off, not a BSOD or anything, I'd assumed it was due to power failure, but the TV was still on, and the router (which runs off the same power point) was also on..
I disconnected the pc fully, opened it up and looked inside, what I saw:
NO bulged capacitors or transistors / resistors
NO black marks / burn marks / smoke
However everything was hot, not burning hot, but enough to make me want to take my hand off it.
I reconnected everything then waited 10 minutes, everything was cool, I tried to turn the PC on, assuming it was an over heat and now that it was cool, it would boot and run fine... It sits there, like a box, doesn't respond at all while I try turn it on..
So, Facepunch, What is my next move? Where do I go from here.
is there any dust or anything that could block the fans?
I forgot to mention that, all fans turned freely.. There was a little dust over everything, I forgot dust goes inside the case (:downs:)
No sign of life, no standby lights on the motherboard? Then I'd say your powersupply is toast. Depending on your set up, it usually isn't an expensive component to replace.
[QUOTE=Krahn;29032453]No sign of life, no standby lights on the motherboard? Then I'd say your powersupply is toast. Depending on your set up, it usually isn't an expensive component to replace.[/QUOTE]
That was one of the first things my brother mentioned when I called him..
I'm hoping it is, becuase I can get a knew one from 50 to 80 bucks.. :D
Fingers crossed.
What brand would that PSU be?
If you already got a crappy PSU that exploded on you, you shouldent get another bad
[editline]7th April 2011[/editline]
Also [url=http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-how-jump-start-power-supply-psu.html]paperclip test[/url] it
Agreed, brand is important. Don't go for the "zomg gamer ultra-extreme quiet!"-types. Get one that gets good community reviews and isn't ultra-cheap. A cheap PSU will usually work fine, but won't last quite as long or deliver the performance they advertise.
Never tried the paperclip test, so can't comment on that.
[QUOTE=Tobba;29032821]What brand would that PSU be?
If you already got a crappy PSU that exploded on you, you shouldent get another bad
[editline]7th April 2011[/editline]
Also [url=http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-how-jump-start-power-supply-psu.html]paperclip test[/url] it[/QUOTE]
I don't remember the psu brand, it wouldn't have been the cheapest, but not a great one either..
I'll look at both the brand and clip test tonight..
[QUOTE=Tobba;29032821]What brand would that PSU be?
If you already got a crappy PSU that exploded on you, you shouldent get another bad
[editline]7th April 2011[/editline]
Also [url=http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-how-jump-start-power-supply-psu.html]paperclip test[/url] it[/QUOTE]
First, forcing a PSU to turn on if you know it might be bad or faulty is never a good idea. If the PSU is not under warranty anymore (most often the case) then it should be opened up and visually inspected. The most often problem are blown capacitors, but other things like the FETs can also be bad, but those are harder to test, and not very cost effective to replace.
Second, the paperclip test really isn't a test. Just because a PSU powers on, doesn't mean it's good. You'd have to use a volt meter to test the voltage under idle and under load to make sure it doesn't fluctuate. You'd also have to use an ammeter under idle and load to check if the PSU can output its rated amp level.
The paperclip jumper is really only good if you need to power devices when the PSU isn't attached to a motherboard.
[QUOTE=bohb;29044505]First, forcing a PSU to turn on if you know it might be bad or faulty is never a good idea. [/QUOTE]
You aren't "forcing it to turn on", that is even what power supply manufacturers [I]tell[/I] you to do to test it. Those pins are how it knows to power on.
Second, the paperclip test is a test. It tests to see if your PSU is responsive at all. If it doesn't respond to the clip, then you know it's blown. If it does respond, it might still be broken, but it is still a diagnostic.
Third, a visual inspection of your PSU is completely unnecessary if you test it with a multimeter.
[QUOTE=fenwick;29046469]Third, a visual inspection of your PSU is completely unnecessary if you test it with a multimeter.[/QUOTE]
LMAO what. Idle power levels tell you nothing about the PSUs condition. Herp lets totally ignore those spewing and exploded capacitors in the PSU because +12v is within range while idle. That's not even considering the amp output.
I'm now not sure, I wont do the test for now... Though what Bohb said makes sense..
I'll ask my brother, he has a multimeter or w/e thanks to his job..
But yeah.
Ok, so,
PSU - Fine
GPU - Cooked, the fan had stopped, clogged with dust, Gigabyte nVidia 9800GT, horrible heatsink / fan design... Sucks dust in hard
Vista - Fucked, can't install anything, not sure how long it's been fucked, I got a virus a couple of days ago, so maybe that's all..
At any rate, hardware is now fine, reinstalling Vista tonight / whenever mum gets her shit in order, Should be all good
Thanks guys
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