[u]Review of the G&G Combat Machine M4[/u]
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Well this was sort of an unexpected surprise. I attended yesterday's CQB City game and they were only raffling off 2 prizes. The first was a coupon for a free game, and I was off by 2 numbers. The next raffle prize courtesy of Gamepod ([url]http://www.gamepod.com/[/url]) was a G&G Combat Machine M4. The number was called and what do you know, it's mine.
I've heard nothing but good reviews of G&G's Combat Machine series, and it's easy to see why.
[u]First Impressions[/u]
After receiving my prize I proceeded to open the box and handle the gun. The first thing that caught my eye was the nice matte finish on it, none of this glossy plastic you see on other clone guns. When I picked it up I noticed how light it was, which was to be expected since I knew it was plastic. I shouldered the weapon, and this is what surprised me. No wobble or creaking at all, minus a little wobble in the LE stock. This gun is rock solid, puts the wobble in my CA M15A4 URX to shame.
[u]Packaging[/u]
Nothing special here. Gun comes inside of a generic cardboard box sitting in plastic packaging mold. With it comes a bag of G&G bbs and extended high capacity magazine. There's no instruction manual, battery and charger included with this gun.
[u]Externals[/u]
As stated before the majority of the plastic parts feature a very nice matte black finish. The exception to this the LE stock and charging handle, both of which feature a more shiny plastic. There's surprisingly few metal parts on this gun. They include:
-Delta Ring
-Outer Barrel
-Front Sight
-Sling Mounts
-Body Pins
-Moving parts on the carry handle
-Trigger
-Fake Gas Tube
-Ejection Port Cover
-Buffer Tube
Notice how the mag catch isn't listed here. I'm pretty sure it's plastic, which is a concern of mine after having my plastic mag catch of my Magpul FPG wear down. But luckily M4 parts are plentiful and a replacement mag catch shouldn't be hard to find.
Starting from the rear of the gun is the LE stock. It's made of a textured and glossy plastic. On the right side the following text is extruded "G&G Armament Flexible Stock". The sling mount on the stock is made of metal. The CM M4 is equipped with a metal 6 position buffer tube.The stock has a slight amount of wobble, nothing a strip of electrical tape can't handle.
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Extended
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Next is the body of gun. It's made out of a durable matte black plastic, and it looks great. The left side features Combat Machine's trademarks printed on. A number is stamped into the receiver "CO1188" above the trigger on the left side. I'm not sure if this is a unique number or not. Safe, Semi, and Auto are stamped into both sides of the receiver. The upper receiver has signs of it being ejected from a mold on the right side. You can see 3 circular burs of plastic. The upper rail is made of plastic as well.
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The charging handle is made out of a slightly different plastic than the body of the gun, and has a more glossy finish. This charging handle does not flip open the ejection port cover, so it's purely cosmetic. The ejection port cover is made of stamped metal. Trying to access the hop-up chamber proves difficult, often requiring you to use a finger nail to open the cover. With gloves on I don't think you'll be able to open it.
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The pistol grip is made of the same material as the receiver. It features a metal heat sink floor plate similar to what you would find on the CA M15 series. The carry handle is made of plastic, but all of the nobs are believed to be metal. It's really hard to tell the difference on some of these parts. All of the adjustment knobs turn easily and click into place.
Next is the barrel assembly. The entire outer barrel is metal. The front sight post is actually molded with the outer barrel, making it's removal impossible. I noticed this when I looked at the pins for the sight that hold it to the barrel, they didn't look like they were meant to be pushed out.
The Delta ring has a very strong spring behind it, making it difficult to pull back and detach the handguards. The hanguards are made of a smooth matte plastic and don't flex much. Battery space isn't too bad, I was able to fit a 9.6v mini battery with ease. The gas tube may interfere with custom shaped battery packs though.
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The flash hider is your typical flash hider you've seen on any other M4/M16 out there. It's made of plastic, but it features a set screw to lock it down. But removing this screw doesn't mean you can just take the flash hider off. It would see that loctite was put on to prevent the removal of the flash hider.
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[u]Internals[/u]
This is one part I rather not jump into. As is the gun is running very smoothy, why risk screwing it up. I'm a firm believer of don't screw with it until it's obvious something's wrong or broken.
But here's a picture of the colorful gearbox
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[U]Performance[/U]
I loaded the included hicap with some .20g bbs and brought it to the backyard along with my chrono. A 9.6v battery was used to test the gun.
Chrono readings:
-361 FPS
-360
-362
-360
-359
A fairly consistent reading of 360fps. Pretty good in my opinion for a stock gun.
Firing the CM M4 was great. The trigger is very responsive and doesn't require a long pull, making it easy to pull off consecutive shots with ease. This is great for places such as CQB City where it's semi auto only. I also noticed how insanely quiet this gun is shoot. It sounds like the gears have been shimmed nicely and the motor height is just right out of the box. The CM M4 fires on full auto with a pretty good ROF. Unfortunately I have no reasonable way of measuring the ROF (my chrono doesn't have that feature) so I can't give a number. But I will say it's more than good enough.
Accuracy was surprisingly good. Standing roughly 10 yards away, shouldering the gun with no support of a bipod or table, I was hitting 4" wide fence post every time with ease. This was using only iron sights that were not zeroed. I'll test it again with a paper target to provide better results. While trying to adjust the hop-up I noticed the dial was insanely hard to rotate.
FPS View. EOTech needs some cleaning.
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f
[img]http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/5868/dsc0121rc.jpg[/img]
More to come later.
Congrats on the free gun!
I want a free gun. Feel free to ship it here: 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue.
Seems like there's a chip in the flash hider. Why do the free guns go to the people who already have awesome stuff?
[QUOTE=L_Dawg;22430791]Seems like there's a chip in the flash hider. Why do the free guns go to the people who already have awesome stuff?[/QUOTE]
Chip in the flash hider is meant to be that way. The real one has it, it's meant to reduce recoil or vent the gas in some helpful way.
[QUOTE=L_Dawg;22430791]Seems like there's a chip in the flash hider. Why do the free guns go to the people who already have awesome stuff?[/QUOTE]
[img]http://www.airsoftgi.com/images/G4FH.JPG[/img]
From Airsoft GI.
Damn Ninjas :ninja:
I wish I got the tan one, but hey it's a free gun, I'm not going to bitch.
I might put my CA URX front end on mine, attach the fake PEQ15 and buy a King Arm's Lipo battery to fit it. Make it my CQB weapon. Or I'll attach the JP rifle set and set it up as more of a long range gun once I get my ACOG in.
[QUOTE=xXEnder007Xx;22431407]I wish I got the tan one, but hey it's a free gun, I'm not going to bitch.
I might put my CA URX front end on mine, attach the fake PEQ15 and buy a King Arm's Lipo battery to fit it. Make it my CQB weapon. Or I'll attach the JP rifle set and set it up as more of a long range gun once I get my ACOG in.[/QUOTE]
Mine I got from G.I. It was their G4-A5 series.
I love the gun though. Sounds scary when indoors.
[QUOTE=Fenriswolf;22430313]I want a free gun. Feel free to ship it here: 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue.[/QUOTE]
That's the white house.
Smartass.
Im pretty sure that notch is for cutting barbed wire actually. Ill do a fact check on that, edit soon.
[QUOTE=xXEnder007Xx;22430839]Chip in the flash hider is meant to be that way. The real one has it, it's meant to reduce recoil or vent the gas in some helpful way.[/QUOTE]
Right, better check my friends's M4s.
[QUOTE=Fenriswolf;22430870][IMG]http://www.airsoftgi.com/images/G4FH.JPG[/IMG]
From Airsoft GI.
Damn Ninjas :ninja:[/QUOTE]
Nicer explanation.
[QUOTE=Timebomb757;22431609]Im pretty sure that notch is for cutting barbed wire actually. Ill do a fact check on that, edit soon.[/QUOTE]
BAD ASS!
I'd totaly do that.
So yea thanks for the review i been looking into a gun like this, I may go for the G4 Socom though just the way i like the gun.
[QUOTE=BlueSaint;22431574]That's the white house.
Smartass.[/QUOTE]
That was the point.:catholic:
[QUOTE=Timebomb757;22431609]Im pretty sure that notch is for cutting barbed wire actually. Ill do a fact check on that, edit soon.[/QUOTE]
Not this one. You're probably thinking of the rebar cutter.
[img]http://www.airsoftgi.com/images/airsoft_GP_M4RebarCutter.jpg[/img]
[QUOTE=xXEnder007Xx;22432149]Not this one. You're probably thinking of the rebar cutter.
[IMG]http://www.airsoftgi.com/images/airsoft_GP_M4RebarCutter.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
I have a feeling the A1 prong flash hider was what I was thinking of actually.
On the other hand, how could a downward facing notch of such shape reduce recoil? It seems like it would counteract the upward facing gas ports. Or maybe thats the intention, hell if I know. I just asked someone in the know, I should have an actual answer soon.
Ender, I have a question. How can I remove the flash hider off the gun for a suppressor, or to switch out different hiders? I noticed there's a little hole on the flash hider, yet I'm uncertain on how to actually take it off.
[QUOTE=Identity;22432349]Ender, I have a question. How can I remove the flash hider off the gun for a suppressor, or to switch out different hiders? I noticed there's a little hole on the flash hider, yet I'm uncertain on how to actually take it off.[/QUOTE]
There's sometimes a little tiny allen screw in that hole if I remember correctly, and the flash hider is probably glued on in addition to that, at least thats how my ICS M4 was. May not be the same for the G&G.
[QUOTE=Timebomb757;22432393]There's sometimes a little tiny allen screw in that hole if I remember correctly, and the flash hider is probably glued on in addition to that, at least thats how my ICS M4 was. May not be the same for the G&G.[/QUOTE]
So basically, unscrew the screw, then just heat it with a hair dryer? Sounds pretty simple.
[QUOTE=Identity;22432474]So basically, unscrew the screw, then just heat it with a hair dryer? Sounds pretty simple.[/QUOTE]
Yep. That or boil it. Thats all it was on the ICS. The G&G may be slightly different though.
There's a small screw you have to loosen first. Seeing that there's seems to be loctite, let it sit in some hot water to soften the loctite. After that use some pliers or shove a small screw driver through both sides of the flash hider to get it off. I'll be doing this with mine in the next few days if I find the time.
Sweet, thanks to the both of you! I may be buying a suppressor in the coming weeks.
More info and pics added. Only things left to add are the conclusion and some more close up pictures in certain areas.
nice review Ender :keke: another good edition to your collection then?
I tried to remove my friends flashhider to put a black one on for him.
I frogot boil it (and didn't have the option anyway) and it broke in half while trying to twist it off.
snap son, you paying for that?
You don't need to [i]boil[/i] it, just put it in warm water for a bit, it worked for me. :/
I had to boil my craptastic 552's flash hider off. I think it differs, because it took 2 or 3 minutes in boiling water to soften it up enough for me to twist it off.
My 552's flash hider just screws off. Putting it back on again though is quite difficult.
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