Alright guys, here we go.
So here is my situation; I have a 2012 Chevy Silverado after getting rid of my Honda accord. I had two 10" kicker's in the back of the accord and am looking to transfer them into my new truck. I'm not completely sure if I can do this though. Does the 2012 Chevy Silverado LT with OUT the Bose system in it have a sub-woofer capability?
If it does, is there an adapter that I need get that would make all the features (Bluetooth, OnStar, etc.) still work and convert into a sub-woofer out?
A sub is connected just like another speaker so everything should work as normal even with the sub connected and the sub should get the signals it needs when using those features
Oh and I don't know about the actual subwoofer compability (or whatever the fuck) of the headunit in a Silverado though
[QUOTE=xRingMaster;39220397]Alright guys, here we go.
So here is my situation; I have a 2012 Chevy Silverado after getting rid of my Honda accord. I had two 10" kicker's in the back of the accord and am looking to transfer them into my new truck. I'm not completely sure if I can do this though. Does the 2012 Chevy Silverado LT with OUT the Bose system in it have a sub-woofer capability?
If it does, is there an adapter that I need get that would make all the features (Bluetooth, OnStar, etc.) still work and convert into a sub-woofer out?[/QUOTE]
U need a RCA converter.
Check and see if PAC audio makes a plug and play harness. It's what I used on my wk2
If not
1. buy an amp that accepts "speaker-level" or "high-voltage" inputs. both terms mean the same thing. with this option, you will run a jumper wire (splicing into the rear speakers is the easiest way) from the factory speaker wiring to the amp. basically, find whatever pair of wires (it will be POS and NEG) are feeding your rear speakers and connect a pair (or two pairs, if you are concerned with stereo sound) of wires from them to your amp. if your amp has speaker-level inputs, you don't need to buy RCA's.
2. buy a line-level converter (more commonly called line out-put converter) (CF's LOCs). these convert a high-voltage signal to a low-voltage signal that can be passed through RCA cables (RCA cables are the most universal way of giving an amplifier signal, and i know of none that don't accept it)
[QUOTE=thattaco;39221566]U need a RCA converter.
Check and see if PAC audio makes a plug and play harness. It's what I used on my wk2
If not
1. buy an amp that accepts "speaker-level" or "high-voltage" inputs. both terms mean the same thing. with this option, you will run a jumper wire (splicing into the rear speakers is the easiest way) from the factory speaker wiring to the amp. basically, find whatever pair of wires (it will be POS and NEG) are feeding your rear speakers and connect a pair (or two pairs, if you are concerned with stereo sound) of wires from them to your amp. if your amp has speaker-level inputs, you don't need to buy RCA's.
2. buy a line-level converter (more commonly called line out-put converter) (CF's LOCs). these convert a high-voltage signal to a low-voltage signal that can be passed through RCA cables (RCA cables are the most universal way of giving an amplifier signal, and i know of none that don't accept it)[/QUOTE]
Alright, I already got the amp and all that stuff, I have the setup off the old car. If i splice the 8" in the back door will i still get the sub feed or will it be more mid ranged?
[QUOTE=xRingMaster;39223282]Alright, I already got the amp and all that stuff, I have the setup off the old car. If i splice the 8" in the back door will i still get the sub feed or will it be more mid ranged?[/QUOTE]
What input does your amp have?
You don't have 8"s in the back doors, what the heck. They're 6.5's on a 4 door or 5.25's on the suicides.
Do what taco said. LOC, splice into the brown/yellow and d blu/ lt blu behind the deck. brown and d blue are the +'s, yellow and lt blue are the -'s. The built in lowpass crossover in the amp will take care of what frequencies the subs play.
For rem turn on, IIRC it's on the passenger end of the dash, yellow wire on the back side of the fuse panel, drop the glove box and meter. It'll test as RAP. Make sure to fuse when you tap into it.
The rest is cake.. order or build a vehicle specific box for those so you're not a prat who has a sub box sitting on his back seat.
[QUOTE=clutch2;39230903]You don't have 8"s in the back doors, what the heck. They're 6.5's on a 4 door or 5.25's on the suicides.
Do what taco said. LOC, splice into the brown/yellow and d blu/ lt blu behind the deck. brown and d blue are the +'s, yellow and lt blue are the -'s. The built in lowpass crossover in the amp will take care of what frequencies the subs play.
For rem turn on, IIRC it's on the passenger end of the dash, yellow wire on the back side of the fuse panel, drop the glove box and meter. It'll test as RAP. Make sure to fuse when you tap into it.
The rest is cake.. order or build a vehicle specific box for those so you're not a prat who has a sub box sitting on his back seat.[/QUOTE]
Nevermind the woofer, I just took a guess at that one.
Thanks for the help, I will give this a shot
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