What's the point of an airfilter? Because I think it looks shit. I hate aftermarket cone filters.
Do they have any other effect than giving your car a slightyly different sound? I'm thinking about buying this:
[url]http://www.akr-performance.nl/shop_uk/civic/civic-96-00-3-doors/air-intakes/civic-96-00-15-16-vtec-akr-cold-air-intake.php[/url]
I dunno, but it has VTEC in it so it's probably fast as hell.
[QUOTE=MacHaddock;28508570]I dunno, but it has VTEC in it so it's probably fast as hell.[/QUOTE]
Thanks man, great help
My car does have VTEC, so I wouldn't want to buy an airfilter that wasn't made for my kind of engine
It depends, if it's a cheap one and placed wrong you are actually gonna lose power instead of gaining.
And a good filter alone is not gonna give you much of a power increase, obviously also depends on the car, my E30 328i has a K&N 57i and all i noticed was a slightly better throttle response and it sounds like a beast above 5000 rpm.
So it's [i]supposed[/i] to give you a little power?
Well seriously though, you may notice some change in power, but it's more likely that you'll just notice getting a bit better throttle response. You might also get a bit better fuel economy.
Yeah, maybe around 3-5hp if it's a decent one.
How do you tell the decent ones from the cheap ones?
they will make your car go slower.
unless you actually build an enclosure with a decent airfeed then it'll just suck in hot air from the bay and bog you down especially in traffic.
i'd just get a decent panel filter, you should be able to squeeze a few more ponies out.
however, if you have a turbocharged car this effect isn't as apparent. because it gets sucked in and heated up in the compressor anyway then cooled, it doesn't really make much difference.
[editline]9th March 2011[/editline]
if you want the sound, just drill some holes in the air box or something.
The only time they make your car go slower is if they are low diameter or have a bad mounting point for the MAF(Mass Airflow Sensor). Make sure it has a MAF mount, and is large diameter. Also make sure it doesn't rain alot near you. CAIs cause hydrolock when its wet.
[url=http://www.hondaperformanceparts.co.uk/Cold_Air_Long_Ram_Intake_Kits]Look here[/url]
Just check which way your TB faces.
AEM is pretty good as far as CAIs and SRIs go. I'd put one in my car.
Well, it doesn't rain often but we had rain today. How much is "often"?
You don't need to worry about that unless you mount the filter under your front bumper...or plan to drive through lakes.
Ughhhhh everyone shutup.
Cold Air Intakes will give you a little more top end. Drawback is that you lose low-end torque. You get more power because they are usually less restrictive and the intake is routed outside of the engine bay. They mostly just sound 'cool' though, you won't notice the change in power because it is so minimal. They won't hydrolock unless you drive over a gi-fucking-gantic puddle of water that engulfs the entire filter. If you aren't a retard, then avoid large puddles and you're fine.
Short ram intakes are the ones that you can see the filter inside your engine bay. Those are pretty much the same as a stock airbox, except with a less restrictive filter on the end. You lose top-end because it starts sucking in hot air, unless you build a box for it.
All in all, they are just fucking tubes with a filter on the end. You can even make your own with large diameter vacuum hose. The only thing that matters is that the filter on the end is decent. You may want to replace that filter on there with a K&N but that's only for it's filtering capabilities, doubt it will effect horsepower.
Turbo cars are greatly effected by cone filter intakes because the turbo needs to draw in so much air, any less restriction it has is a big benefit.
tl;dr - Get the intake if you want it. Don't get it if you don't want it.
running a name brand cone air filter gains more horsepower than no filter at all
[editline]9th March 2011[/editline]
n/a of course, unless your turbo is down away from fresh air like mine
Route the intake into the driver's cabin then turn the A/C on.
do a cutout thing with two intakes, one outside and one in with A/C, it'd be like a tiny nitrous hit if the outside air is hot
every car is different, some cars prefer a short ram other prefer a CAI, some cars can compensate for the airflow change while others (mine) blow the fuck up without a tune
you drive a honda, my suggestion is to buy/build the cheapest short ram you can find, and slap a decent quality filter on it, it's all for sound so don't expect much out of it, don't spend money on trying to get power out of it, focus on enjoying your vtecs
[editline]10th March 2011[/editline]
i use a short ram because I feel that my hairdryer is gonna heat the shit out of the air despite a ~20f change in temp, that and at speed the front/hoodscoop constantly force warm air down and out of the engine bay, so high temperatures are only really an issue at a standstill/slow speeds
[editline]10th March 2011[/editline]
and really who is gonna suddenly step on it and try to race someone after a 30min traffic jam?
also i like smashing puddles
[editline]10th March 2011[/editline]
oh btw open up your airbox and drive if you want to know what it would sound like
Cold airs don't cause hydrolocks when wet, they cause it when the filter is completely submerged or mostly submerged so that the water gets sucked up the pipe. Driving in the rain or through a puddle will have no ill effect. The worst thing you can do is drive through thick mud, it may get stuck to the filter, and keep it constantly damp having the same effect. Only way to prove if anything made power on the car is to test it on the dyno, not a butt-dyno (It feels more powerful, more throttle response - whatever the hell "throttle response" is - I should hope the gas pedal makes the butterfly open or you got issues)
On many car forums I've been on, arguments about short rams/ cold air/ K&N drop-ins rage on for centuries. General rule is if you have it, you like it, whether it be stock, or altered, and no one's going to change your mind.
throttle response isn't so much about air flowing in faster, it's more about the maf/map being closer to the filter, as opposed to further downstream/muddled by an airbox and other shit
its all about the torks and how fast they come
I once made an air filter for my motorcycle out of two layers of pantyhose.
[QUOTE=MikeL14;28521504]its all about the torks and how fast they come[/QUOTE]
Honda? Torque? lol!!
9 times out of 10 on a NA build you'll see better results with stock airbox and a decent panel filter then remove the resonators, simple, cheap and effective.
dat filter.
[img]http://www.aev-conversions.com/storeimages/snorkel_rc2_prefilter_big.jpg[/img]
this is what i have on the hilux, helps with fuel economy and other stuff.
[editline]10th March 2011[/editline]
but seriously, in an under the hood intake, a filter wont have too much of a difference.
You've got a food blender under the hood?!
[QUOTE=sam.clarke;28523274]You've got a food blender under the hood?![/QUOTE]
lmao, no. its a cyclonic filter for snorkels.
I love how it even looks like it's got cooking instructions on it.
yeah, but the one i have doesn't
feroso remove airbox and sound like an s2k
Take a vid
[QUOTE=NecroTitan;28509932]The only time they make your car go slower is if they are low diameter or have a bad mounting point for the MAF(Mass Airflow Sensor). Make sure it has a MAF mount, and is large diameter. Also make sure it doesn't rain alot near you. CAIs cause hydrolock when its wet.
[url=http://www.hondaperformanceparts.co.uk/Cold_Air_Long_Ram_Intake_Kits]Look here[/url]
Just check which way your TB faces.
AEM is pretty good as far as CAIs and SRIs go. I'd put one in my car.[/QUOTE]
sucking in hot air will make the car in slower whatever.
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