Custom camera firmware: make your shitty point and shoot more versatile than DSLRs
22 replies, posted
So while messing around with my old Canon Powershot SD1000 point and shoot camera, I wondered if it was possible to get a little more control over the settings, such as shutter speed or possibly aperture. After some quick googling, I found [url=http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK]CHDK: Canon Hack Devlopment Kit[/url].
The CHDK lets you do way more than the default firmware in your camera, for example setting the shutter speed as slow as 2048 seconds (over 34 minutes) or as fast as 1/100,000 seconds. You can also set the ISO speed anywhere from 0 (?) to 14,464, at least on my Powershot SD1000. It also lets you enable RAW image output (instead of lossy compressed JPEG), adjust video bitrate, enable zebra (overexposure/underexposure highlights on the LCD), and even includes a few games to play on your camera.
To use CHDK, you first have to find your camera's firmware version. Do this by making an empty file named ver.req (or vers.req if ver.req doesn't work) on the SD card, then putting it in your camera and switching to play mode, then pressing Func+Disp. Once you have your firmware version, find the corresponding file here: [url]http://mighty-hoernsche.de/[/url]
Once you've downloaded the CHDK version for your camera, you need a program called cardtricks from here: [url]http://savedonthe.net/download/78/CardTricks-144-SFX.exe[/url]
When you extract the archive, go to where it was extracted (not in the cardtricks folder) and run the program. Click the SD card icon and select your card, then format it, click "make bootable", and then click CHDK -> card, and select the ZIP you downloaded earlier. Once that's done, take out your card and put it in write-protected mode. Then put it in your camera, and CHDK should be running.
[img]http://images1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb21710/common/skins/common/blank.gif[/img]
I haven't been using it for very long so I haven't had time to fully put it to use yet, but I was able to capture some nice pictures with 50-80 second exposures while it was nearly pitch black outside.
[IMG]http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w148/mblunk/Private/shrink1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w148/mblunk/Private/shrink2.jpg[/IMG]
What's up with the banding in those images?
CHDK is pretty cool, though. Don't really need it because I already have a DSLR. It would be nice to see CHDK for the EOS line.
But why would you need a 34 minute exposure time? And if you need something like that, this is why they invited BULB and a remote shutter release.
[QUOTE=Kagrenak;22116706]What's up with the banding in those images?
CHDK is pretty cool, though. Don't really need it because I already have a DSLR. It would be nice to see CHDK for the EOS line.
But why would you need a 34 minute exposure time? And if you need something like that, this is why they invited BULB and a remote shutter release.[/QUOTE]
screen in the window
CHDK Is pretty awesome. I find the menus pretty clunky to mess through, but overall it's great. It's easy to install (directly on SD card so there is no chance of bricking the camera) and gives you supreme control over your camera.
Although I lack a need for it since I haven't used my point and shoot in ages (and have a camera I actually use).
"[highlight]More[/highlight] versatile than DSLRs"? Sure it adds more versatility than what it was before, but hell if you'll get anywhere near the same quality or control.
Interesting nonetheless, it'll add at least a little more dynamic ability to those who don't want to shell out for a new camera.
This is pretty neat. Is there something similar like this for the Fujifilm Finepix S1000fd? I've been looking for something like this for a long time.
[QUOTE=daijitsu;22131190]"[highlight]More[/highlight] versatile than DSLRs"? Sure it adds more versatility than what it was before, but hell if you'll get anywhere near the same quality or control.
Interesting nonetheless, it'll add at least a little more dynamic ability to those who don't want to shell out for a new camera.[/QUOTE]
Of course it won't get DSLR quality, but it sure beats the features available on my friends' DSLRs. Well, it would if I could get the aperture override to work... but still, none of them can take exposures in such a range from 2048s to 1/100,000s, or ISO speeds from 0 to 14,464 and everywhere in between.
Why would you want an ISO like that?
Why would you try to force the aperture to hold a value that it isn't supposed to?
I mean, fiddle with shutter speed, sure, but I don't see any good coming out of forcing a mechanical iris to open/close further than it's designed to.
[QUOTE=Maloof?;22155757]Why would you try to force the aperture to hold a value that it isn't supposed to?
I mean, fiddle with shutter speed, sure, but I don't see any good coming out of forcing a mechanical iris to open/close further than it's designed to.[/QUOTE]
I'm not pushing the aperture out of its normal limits, I'm just trying to get manual control of it. Remember, I'm on a powershot SD1000, a stupid little point and shoot. Normally, you only get control of the ISO speed, but not the aperture or shutter speed.
Is there custom camera firmware for the Samsung point and shoots? I've looked all over and can't find anything. I've got the L100 if anyone is wondering.
[QUOTE=mblunk;22156970]I'm not pushing the aperture out of its normal limits, I'm just trying to get manual control of it. Remember, I'm on a powershot SD1000, a stupid little point and shoot. Normally, you only get control of the ISO speed, but not the aperture or shutter speed.[/QUOTE]
Ohh, sorry, I thought we were talking about slightly advanced P&S cameras (finepix range). You'll want to check the specs of your camera for the max/min aperture just to be safe though.
I wouldn't want to brick my DSLR.
[QUOTE=mblunk;22132346]Of course it won't get DSLR quality, but it sure beats the features available on my friends' DSLRs. Well, it would if I could get the aperture override to work... but still, none of them can take exposures in such a range from 2048s to 1/100,000s, or ISO speeds from 0 to 14,464 and everywhere in between.[/QUOTE]
...you know, there's a reason DSLRs don't have values like that- the physical incapability of the technology. It may SAY it's giving you these values, but it's just pushing it as close to it as the camera will allow... which probably isn't much still.
What you're doing here is like painting "V8" on a cheap little 4 cylinder car's engine block, but the only real upgrade is from an automatic transmission to a manual.
This could be useful for time-lapsing, going to try if it works with an old Powershot A80.
aw not supported :frown:
EDIT: Found a 550 which it worked great with
Custom camera firmware: make your shitty point and shoot more complicated than DSLRs, while still looking shit
Is there any custom firmware for the powershot S200 or the canon zr850
You're not going to be able to override the aperture because your point-and-shoot can only shoot at two apertures. Period.
[QUOTE=mrcsb;22224009]You're not going to be able to override the aperture because your point-and-shoot can only shoot at two apertures. Period.[/QUOTE]
Actually I've seen 3, f2.8, f4.9 and f8.0. I'd still like to be able to choose between these, as obviously using f2.8 will let me drop the iso and increase the shutter speed more.
[editline]08:43PM[/editline]
I only see the point of using small apertures when taking landscaping photos or stuff like that where you need everything in focus.
or you want better image quality
[QUOTE=evilking1;22253559]or you want better image quality[/QUOTE]
Explain
Oh, this is great. Now my half useless ixus 850 is actually useful.
[QUOTE=mblunk;22266823]Explain[/QUOTE]
Usually lenses give best performance when stopped down few stops.
[editline]06:05AM[/editline]
At least all (7) of mine do.
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