Yes, it's a Mistabitchy. Yes they are apparently unreliable (and mine has done 280K highway KMs) but no I'm not considering a replacement car right now.
Long story but I'll cover everything from the start. So I have a completely stock automatic transmission Mitsubishi TH Magna 3.5L (if it matters I've only ever flogged it probably three times in the year that I've had it, I like to think of myself as like James May when it comes to driving) , the Magnas go by the name of Diamante outside of Australia I believe. Anyways one day quite a few weeks ago I had to park my car out in the sun all day at my work because of no shaded parking. When I got back the sound system wasn't working, as in the LCD screen, auxillary and the radio but the backlight was working, and it would still be illuminated even when the car was actually turned off.
I lived with this for a few weeks and after not using my car for a week I tried starting it but the battery was flat (I assume from the sound system draining it). Jump started it with another car and it worked fine; hell, somehow even the sound system managed to fix itself and after entering the security code for it I was able to enjoy driving with music again. Problem was the battery was always low on charge, so leave it for a few hours and there was barely enough power left for the starter motor to work. Ended up having to jump start it once more.
I was going to go to a car battery place to get them to check for problems with the car, as I was thinking maybe there was something wrong with the alternator or the fuse box (which I assumed was why the sound system went in the first place). Anyways someone convinced me to go to another place and just get a new battery without someone checking it, and so I did. The old battery looked old as fuck so was probably in need of replacement anyways. Put the new battery in (although the negative terminal connector is a little bit loose), and I was able to start the car perfectly (and sound system is still working).
I've been having more problems since then though. Since the second time I jumpstarted the car, the gear shifting (keep in mind it's an auto) acts weird sometimes. When the car goes to shift up, the engine RPM will increase by about 100 or so until managing to shift gear as if the engine and drivetrain are disconnected for longer than usual. This doesn't happen all the time, maybe once in every twenty gear shifts or something like that. Since putting the new battery in there's been another problem though. When the engine is near idle, there is a weird and infrequent vibration coming from the engine. It's hard to describe, but it's almost like one of the cylinders is failing to fire as the RPM drops a little bit every time the vibration happens. However, getting the RPM above 1500 seems to make the vibration go away, and if at a stop and put into neutral the vibrations aren't as intense (but still there).
Also since replacing the battery, my car's on-board computer has been reporting my fuel usage differently. Before the change I had no problem with keeping the average fuel use below 9.0L/100km, sometimes I could even keep it under 8.5, but since replacing the battery I've been strugging to keep it below 10.5L/100km. Perhaps this is because of me trying to keep the RPM higher than normal so those vibrations don't occur though. My remote to unlock the doors also no longer works but I suppose that's a security feature, I'll check my car manual to see how I can fix that. I have no idea at all regarding that weird thing when upshifting, and excuse me for this terrible idea but I'm getting the feeling that those vibrations are happening because of the (keep in mind - slightly) loose negative terminal connector for the battery. Anyone have any ideas? I haven't been able to check any of the fuses because I can't find any pliers anywhere to get into the fuse box if anything is wrong in there by the way.
Removing the battery resets the ECU, making your fuel consumption worsen for the next 50-100 ignition starts until it can complete its "re-learn" procedure.
The automatic locks are also reset when you remove the battery especially if its an aftermarket alarm.
The vibrations are misfiring, your car could just need a tune up like replacing 02 sensors, spark plugs, spark plug wires or air/fuel filter. But for all I know it's also your battery terminals, but those are like $10 at most.
The wrong shift points could simply mean you need more automatic transmission fluid or you need it serviced like changing the transmission filter and oil change. Hope that it's not the solenoid screwing up. Check your ECU for check engine light codes
Air filters just recently been replaced, but since I've owned the car I've never replaced the spark plugs so I might end up doing that. I'll also consider the terminals as well.
The wrong shifting I actually haven't noticed recently, I took in on a 30km or so drive yesterday and I never noticed the wrong shifting at any point. When I serviced the car a while back the oil was replaced but I didn't check the transmission fluid, I'll make a note to.
Thanks for the help :)
Change your plugs and wires. If your battery was that bad your ignition system probably is as well.
[QUOTE=Waffle99;39823502]Change your plugs and wires. If your battery was that bad your ignition system probably is as well.[/QUOTE]
Yeah I'll definitely do it. Might shop around for those replacements soon.
I've noticed one thing with the misfiring anyways, and that is it doesn't always do it. Start the car and it won't do the misfiring, sometimes when stopping it doesn't do it until the revs are at idle for at least a few seconds. Whatever is causing it I'll still replace the plugs and wires though.
Clean your Mass Airflow Sensor as well, really easy to do and usually is part of the cause of rough idling.
[QUOTE=Waffle99;39823886]Clean your Mass Airflow Sensor as well, really easy to do and usually is part of the cause of rough idling.[/QUOTE]
By clean he mean they make a Maf cleaner spray. Don't actually touch the coiled wire in the Maf or mas
I agree with the rest.
Alot of LCDs if left in the sun will blank out from getting too hot. But by placing a simple white sheet of paper over it the over all temp to the unit can be cut down by alot.
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