• Types of engine oil?
    31 replies, posted
Changing my car's oil for the the first time, its pretty straightforward but I don't know what type of oil to use. My Mr Lube sticker says GTX, so I bought some synthetic Castrol GTX 5W–30. What is the difference between Synthetic/Non synthetic? Does synthetic have better performance? And does a certain brand have better performance (or "sub brands" like Castrol GTX, GTX high Milage, etc) What is the difference between say 5W–30, 10W–30, etc? Lastly, what happens if you use a different oil than what was previously used in the vehicle? I would rather be safe than sorry :)
[URL]http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/[/URL] This website has tons of infos. Has good reads.
Most of the brands are equal, and the ratings are simply viscosity measurements. As for whether Synthetic is better or not, it depends on the car but generally it has far superior lubrication properties and will last longer than conventional oil. However, if you have some crappy beater that burns oil every time you step on the gas, it's definitely not worth putting in.
what car do you have? might not be able to run that thin oil if it's an older one.
[QUOTE=Psygo;35074377]what car do you have? might not be able to run that thin oil if it's an older one.[/QUOTE] It's not so much age but engine condition that dictates whether or not you should use synthetic. I run nothing but synthetic in my 98 because I know the engine is still in excellent condition. If all your rings and gaskets are destroyed it's not worth spending the extra money because you'll just burn it off.
synthetic =/= how thin it is.
I have a 98 jeep but the engine runs great and there are no oil leaks that I am aware of xD I also live in a pretty cold environment so I figured I would need a thinner oil so it doesn't get too thick during winter.
I like to put synthetic in my car because A) It makes me feel good putting the expensive stuff in. B) It's from 2004, and doesn't leak or burn oil, so it lasts until my next oil change C) I'm a sucker.
[QUOTE=Psygo;35074441]synthetic =/= how thin it is.[/QUOTE] Synthetic on average is thinner, but you're right. Although for most intents and purposes there is no need whatsoever to use anything other than 10W30, unless you live in or Alaska or something. I believe 10W30 is good for up to -40C/F (Or maybe it was 5W30 I'm thinking of, someone feel free to correct me). Edit: Just read this, not sure how reliable it is but it does bring up some interesting points. [url]http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm[/url] According to this regular oil is just fine unless you have a high compression/high horsepower engine.
I'll add a quick paragraph or two about oil weights because I only learned about this recently and it took me a few sites worth of reading to understand it. Say your oil is 10W-40. The first number determines how viscous (thick) the oil is when the engine is cold. The lower this number is, the less time you have to spend warming your engine up on a cold morning, and the less damage the engine will do to itself when starting up cold (before the oil pump can shower everything in oil). Apparently over 90% of the wear an engine experiences over its lifetime is caused during the first 3 or 4 minutes of running as everything starts spinning whilst partially un-lubricated. Basically, lower numbers are almost always better if you change your oil regularly (except in extreme performance/track use). 5W or 10W is about ideal for everyday usage. The second number determines the oil's viscosity at normal engine operating temperature. Just stick to the manufacturer's recommended spec on this one. The difference between synthetic and non-synthetic is fairly negligable at normal running temperatures. Synthetic oil is 'engineered' to be more stable and to maintain its viscosity under a variety of conditions. In layman's terms, it won't degrade if you start hammering the engine, which means it's good for performance usage. I've also been told synthetic oil does a better job at cleaning the inside of your engine. That's my understanding anyway. Tell me if I'm wrong.
It'll normally say what oil you should use in your manual.
[QUOTE=ice445;35074978]Synthetic on average is thinner, but you're right. Although for most intents and purposes there is no need whatsoever to use anything other than 10W30, unless you live in or Alaska or something. I believe 10W30 is good for up to -40C/F (Or maybe it was 5W30 I'm thinking of, someone feel free to correct me). Edit: Just read this, not sure how reliable it is but it does bring up some interesting points. [url]http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm[/url] According to this regular oil is just fine unless you have a high compression/high horsepower engine.[/QUOTE] I put 5W-30 in the winter here, because it can go down up to -35C, it did a few times, super cold start, my car had it all the winter, and still had it yesterday at -20C, 10w-30 won't go up to -40C, speaking for experience, honestly, if it goes down under -10C often in the winter, I'd say go with 5w-30. And I'm going to say one thing you may disagree, but many GM cars are WONDERFUL when it comes to cold start. Speaking from experience.
I run full synthetic in my engines. Got one at 194K, one at 201K, one at 300K. The one at 300K I have 15w40 in, just because the wear and tear is starting to make it's presence known. When it's cold and using 10W30 it knocks ever so slightly, and the lifter tick makes it sound like a diesel. 15w40 shuts it right up. The other two get 10w30, as they aren't worn enough to necessitate a thicker oil yet. All three absolutely love it and run great. The eldest has a fair amount of blow by as well, the synthetic oil does a damn good job of keeping those contaminants from ruining what's left of the bottom end, and it seems to seal up nicely as none of them burn a drop. For your engine I would use Valvoline Full Synthetic 10w30. Don't buy the high-mileage stuff, my own experience with a very high mileage engine is that it makes next to no difference. Engine doesn't care either way. [QUOTE=Strike 86;35075095]I've also been told synthetic oil does a better job at cleaning the inside of your engine. [/QUOTE] Synthetic is actually quite good at this. If you have an engine that's been fed nothing but conventional for 200,000 miles and swap in some full synthetic, chances are, you're going to suddenly lose the rear main. The reason for this is simple, the goop that conventional oil leaves behind maintains a seal that otherwise would not be there. Synthetic washes away the goop, and now the worn rear main is unable to keep the oil inside the engine where it belongs. If I suspect an engine's been fed conventional most it's life I'll feed it some synthetic blend in the off chance that may be an issue.
It's my understanding that the high mileage versions are meant to help prevent leaks from switching to synthetic.
[QUOTE=Doozle;35076495]It'll normally say what oil you should use in your manual.[/QUOTE] Says on the stickers above my radiator, and on my oil filler cap. 5W-30 in my 88 K15 [editline]11th March 2012[/editline] I'm also planning on switching to 5W-40 on my next oil change.
I don't buy that "high-mileage" shit... if your engine needs new seals, then new seals is what it needs...not some magical fix-it additive
Other than the (slightly) higher price of synth, there should be no reason to not get it. It lasts longer, doesn't create much grim and gunk, protects your engine, keeps it much cooler, doesn't foam up as much, and extends engine life.
Yeah, never get anything except full synthetic It literally is better in every single way. Normal oil tends to be black by the time you change it, while full synthetic goes out as clean as it went in most of the time. It costs just as much in the end considering your average standard oil change involves spending $20-24 every 3000-4500 miles, while full synthetic lasts twice as long so you spend about $40-50 every 6000-9000 miles. In the end, you pay the same for a much better product. Plus that's less time you have to spend doing oil changes.
What's a good brand?
Valvoline is my brand of choice. I'll use Havoline in a pinch though, cheaper than Valvoline by about two bucks a quart. I think they're both made by the same parent company but don't hold me to that.
I'd personally go with mobil1
If I REALLY care about my engines I use royal purple. Otherwise cheap walmart synthetic. It's just as good as anything, just use a good filter. And by good filter I mean [i]not fram[/i]. I've had three cars through my shop in the past year with defective Fram oil filters, one ruined the engine, two BARELY made it. I will NEVER run another Fram filter on my cars. Personally I use STP but they aren't "the best", just a good cheap filter.
Hmm, I used to buy the Fram Extra guard filters...but just about everybody doesn't like them. I've got a Napa Gold on it now.
[QUOTE]Otherwise cheap walmart synthetic. It's just as good as anything, just use a good filter.[/QUOTE] i don't think i would ever use some cheap oil in my car, it really is a difference when you use more expensive, better known brands like castrol, valvoline, mobil,..
I get whatever the cheapest shit is on the WalMart shelves that day. Why the does my stupid Malib- I MEAN CUTLASS deserve anything else?
[QUOTE=Droelsj;35181278]i don't think i would ever use some cheap oil in my car, it really is a difference when you use more expensive, better known brands like castrol, valvoline, mobil,..[/QUOTE] Nearly 300,000 miles on cheap oil tells me nothing is really effected. I run good oil in things I spend a lot of money on. If it's a $150 motor I'll run $3 quarts of oil through it all day every day.
[QUOTE=bradley;35175268] And by good filter I mean [i]not fram[/i]. I've had three cars through my shop in the past year with defective Fram oil filters, one ruined the engine, two BARELY made it. I will NEVER run another Fram filter on my cars. [/QUOTE] I agree wholeheartedly. FRAMs are only suitable for use as plinking targets and engines you're intending to blow up. If anyone wants to doubt it, [url]http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html[/url] will show you why FRAMs are bad, not to mention reveal what's actually inside major brands. I use Motorcraft oil filters, they're not that much more than a FRAM yet they're merely a rebranded Purolator. Good shit.
Great article, explains exactly what I'm talking about with the Fram filters. I hope a lot of people read this.
Dammit bradley now i'm going to be paranoid because all my family uses is fram. Also my oil brand of choice is castrol, they have oil for all our vehicles (and i have a metric dickload of coupons for them)
Get them onto a different brand ASAP. You'll only be doing their engines a favor. I've actually seen firsthand the effects of a FRAM.
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