My 2000 Honda Civic HX will not start. I've investigated and found that my FI e/m fuse is popping every time I turn the key to the accessory position. I am fairly certain that there is some sort of electrical short but I cannot pinpoint where it is. There is a badly installed aftermarket cruise control in it that was in when I bought it. Should I uninstall it, how do I go about doing so, and are there any major risks in doing so?
It ran well after being bought but on the way home noticed the headlights start to flicker then a bright flash and everything on the car went. I've replaced all the exterior light bulbs ( they were ALL shot afterward ), the alternator, and battery. I don't know what to do/try. Help? I can post photos of anything if needed for further diagnosis.
Check all the fuses? Relays?
If not your ECU is fried
Like I said, the FI e/m ( main fuel injection ) fuse is blowing as well as the SRS fuse. I've installed new ones and they pop as soon as I turn the key to the accessory ( electronics ) position.
[editline]8th April 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=sHiBaN;40200903]Check all the fuses? Relays?
If not your ECU is fried[/QUOTE]
Well... there's a short. That's the short explanation.
To properly diagnose a short you've gotta open up a power distribution diagram for those specific fuses, then go and investigate/ unplug each component that they power. With all the components unplugged you put the fuse in and test it... if it still pops, then there's a short on the actual wiring and will need to be thoroughly investigated; trace wiring harness, look for damage, etc. Very arduous.
If you put the fuse in with everything unplugged and it doesn't pop... then you plug components in one at a time until it does pop, and the last components you plugged in is what causes the issue. Replace and rejoice.
No matter what, finding a short can be very frustrating and time consuming. You have one thing on your side, though: it ISNT intermittent. Intermittent fuse blowing is a nightmare.. be happy it blows every time, so there's something consistently wrong you need to find. It's going to be damn near impossible with a good diagram, if you don't have one you're gonna need to be lucky, lol.
With that cruise control.. if it's poorly installed, do find the ignition wire tap location where they tagged switched power for it. Find it and disconnect it for starters.. it may be something super simple like they drilled a hole in the firewall and ran all the cruise control wires through it without a grommet and they've worn though.
This fuse popping basically means that something is shorting, check over all the sensors, injectors and ignition components on the motor and check for exposed wires. You're also popping an SRS fuse which strikes me as it will be near SRS components. I found that SRS and ignition wires are located near each other or something like that on Integras.
If the ECU is toast you'll normally have a solid CEL when turning the key instead of it going off after a second or two.
I thought if the ECU was fried the CEL didn't light up at all?
[QUOTE=Del91;40214616]I thought if the ECU was fried the CEL didn't light up at all?[/QUOTE]
Nope.
You will get a solid CEL, commonly called "Code 0"
If the light doesn't light up at all then that means the light is dead lol.
Something anyone with a Honda/Acura should have in the car at all times is a metal paperclip bent into a u shape to stick in the ECU jumper.
[img]http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC1978-D3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/electrical/connector2.jpg[/img]
You also jump it to time the distributor.
I'd jump it too if the light is on, if it stays solid while jumped and unjumped then that means the ECU is dead.
There's a light on the ECU itself on OBD0/pre-90's cars, which does the same thing but always flashes.
Here's a list of pretty much everything to do with Honda ECU's for understanding what they have to tell you without a scanner.
[url]http://hondaswap.com/reference-materials/88-ecu-error-codes-29109/[/url]
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