• Car sub to a PC?
    25 replies, posted
Hey, I've got a car sub of which I got bored in car and I was wondering how can I hook it up to my PC? All I have left from previous PC parts is a 200W server PSU. Which says: Output: +3.3V / 19.0A +5V / 19.0A +12V / 5.2A +5VSB / 1.5A -12V / 0.2A My sub is 300W only. But my PSU says max output is 200W so I assume I can only make my sub output 200W out of 300W? but even then that's better than my 4W suboofer from Argos :suicide: So any help? I mean I could try out but I am sure I will just end up using fire extinguisher and having subwoofer or house power going off.
unless the sub has a build in amplifier you you can't just connect it to your pc. it needs a amplifier for the low frequencies of the sounds. that's why you should find a old stereo with an equalizer so you can set it up for the low frequencies only. other than that I have no idea how to connect it to a pc
[QUOTE=Plaster;40782418]unless the sub has a build in amplifier you you can't just connect it to your pc. it needs a amplifier for the low frequencies of the sounds. that's why you should find a old stereo with an equalizer so you can set it up for the low frequencies only. other than that I have no idea how to connect it to a pc[/QUOTE] Sub is with amp afaik. I mean if it wasn't I couldn't just hook it up to car straight away could I? Yeah it has amp built in, it has Gain, Bass, Freq settings on it too. This is the one: [URL="http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_723155_langId_-1_categoryId_212610"]http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_723155_langId_-1_categoryId_212610 Except mine is 300W [/URL]
also never connect speakers to electricity unless it's under 1 volt/10 watts just to stay safe. you want to keep your ears, right?
[QUOTE=Plaster;40782441]also never connect speakers to electricity unless it's under 1 volt/10 watts just to stay safe. you want to keep your ears, right?[/QUOTE] But it's a subwoofer for bass frequences only isn't it? It works fine in car. I think my biggest problem is where to hook up +12V wire in sub and GND wire.
[QUOTE=arleitiss;40782430]Sub is with amp afaik. I mean if it wasn't I couldn't just hook it up to car straight away could I? Yeah it has amp built in, it has Gain, Bass, Freq settings on it too. This is the one: [URL="http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_723155_langId_-1_categoryId_212610"]http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_723155_langId_-1_categoryId_212610 Except mine is 300W [/URL][/QUOTE] Well since yours has an amp build it you should have no problems hooking it up to your pc. just use something else than the PSU you have to power it. will be cheaper for you in a long run.
[QUOTE=Plaster;40782509]Well since yours has an amp build it you should have no problems hooking it up to your pc. just use something else than the PSU you have to power it. will be cheaper for you in a long run.[/QUOTE] but thats the problem, my PSU is only 200W at max and I have not quite a complete idea of what wire goes where, hence I am asking for help.
I'm not sure a computer power supply is going to like driving a subwoofer very much but I suppose it's worth a shot; 12v is 12v. Worst case scenario, you blow the psu fuse. You might have to get creative with the audio wiring... either run some sort of splitter/pass-thru deal or maybe you can just get away with running a 1/8-to-rca cable from your computer's sub out straight to the amp, if it has 5.1 outputs. For power just wire the +12v and remote on the amp to +12v (usually yellow) and ground to any of the black wires, and you might want to splice a few of each together since it is going to be drawing a lot of power... edit: [img]http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/modwiki/images/9/94/Molex_pinout.gif[/img]
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;40782553]I'm not sure a computer power supply is going to like driving a subwoofer very much but I suppose it's worth a shot; 12v is 12v. Worst case scenario, you blow the psu fuse. You might have to get creative with the audio wiring... either run some sort of splitter/pass-thru deal or maybe you can just get away with running a 1/8-to-rca cable from your computer's sub out straight to the amp, if it has 5.1 outputs. For power just wire the +12v and remote on the amp to +12v (usually yellow) and ground to any of the black wires, and you might want to splice a few of each together since it is going to be drawing a lot of power...[/QUOTE] Btw I just found 400W external amplifier too. But anyway: I have a voltmeter, I guess I will use that to find a wire that will give me +12V. Also I don't have 5.1 outputs, but I have a converter/spliter which goes from standard PC spearker out jack to 3 xRC female plugs so I guess that will work. (worked with PS3 before) Also SUB has a fuse build into it.
I did this when I was a kid :v: 12v power supply to my amp, then just regular cables from the computer to the amp and it worked like a charm
I got PSU that has no HDD connectors, it's a PSU from server. Any way to use that? [editline]26th May 2013[/editline] oh gawd, I actually used 200W PSU which is a bit broken (assuming some of it's capacitors or fuses are damaged) and it gave me only 5-6 DC and around 12 AC. And about 3 Amps. It worked, though at most it sounded like a bee shitting around it's epic, I mean so simple and it works even with my 3.5mm jack to RCA splitter it just works. Oh damn can't wait to get 300-400W PSU. Gonna post vid in a few. [video=youtube;1U9zBBmiUg4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1U9zBBmiUg4&feature=youtu.be[/video] I assume 400W PSU will do.. right?
Aren't car amps like 4 or 2 Ohm systems? Meaning you can only used 2 or 4 Ohm speakers (i.e. car speakers)
Right, but impedance not really a problem here since it has its own built-in amp. It's not going to be drawing >200w all the time, only when you are playing it louder. Also, it's DC voltage not AC so don't bother with AC on your voltmeter. Are there no wires on there that have 12v? From that video it looks like you hooked it up to the 5v instead of 12v which would be why it sounds like shit...
[QUOTE=TweaK2007;40787616]Right, but impedance not really a problem here since it has its own built-in amp. It's not going to be drawing >200w all the time, only when you are playing it louder. Also, it's DC voltage not AC so don't bother with AC on your voltmeter. Are there no wires on there that have 12v? From that video it looks like you hooked it up to the 5v instead of 12v which would be why it sounds like shit...[/QUOTE] I tested all wires, but all were either 1,2 volts or 6 was biggest I found. And there was only two of yellow ones, so I thought maybe that server works somehow by giving out 12V DC via both yellow wires if that's possible?
You need a PSU wich can output a lot AH. My PSU has a single 12V line and outputs about 50 AH and it has 650W
At my shop we used to have a PC power supply pushing our headunit and amp for musics. It'd cut out at too high of volume, but worked fine for normal listening. If ya gotta go bigger, do so, but nothing wrong with giving it a shot.
I have this kind of set-up on my PC. I'm using a 13.8V 5A (Continuous) switched-mode power supply from Maplin. The amp is a JBL GTO2060 (240W Bridged) and the sub is some 12" JBL unit in a sealed box. Works great, the power supply is 690W continuous so loads of headroom. More than powerful enough to make TF2 heard throughout the house.
[QUOTE=arleitiss;40788540]I tested all wires, but all were either 1,2 volts or 6 was biggest I found. And there was only two of yellow ones, so I thought maybe that server works somehow by giving out 12V DC via both yellow wires if that's possible?[/QUOTE] If both are at +6 then no. If in the very bizzare case one was +6 and one was -6 then yes it'd work, but then I'd expect them to be different colours. THe simple way to check would be to bash your meter across both yellow and if it gives you 0v the answer is no. "400w" is it's maximum power, in very simplistic terms you can roughly equate power drawn to volume, i.e. as already stated in this thread it works fine at lower volumes. [editline]29th May 2013[/editline] Having reread the OP you must either have a buggered PSU or be measuring the voltages wrong to get 1 2 and 6V out of a PSU that supposedly should have a +12 and -12 rail. Also you wont get anywhere near the full 200W out of that psu off the 12v line considering it's only rated to 5.2A 12x5.2 = 62.4W
You simply need a AMPLIFIER for this. A power supply emits nothing more than constant power and rapes your subwoofer. If you connect that subwoofer to your power supply, you get nothing more than constant buzzing. A audio signal is nothing more than power which changes constantly.
[QUOTE=Merijnwitje;40866231]You simply need a AMPLIFIER for this. A power supply emits nothing more than constant power and rapes your subwoofer.[/QUOTE] It's got a built in amp...
That changes the story. I got so stunned by this I immediately had to respond. ANYWAYS: Your subwoofer probably has RCA in, the two red and white input, you can use a 3.5mm to RCA connector, and use a 3.5mm splitter for your other speakers and this silly car subwoofer. As for powering the amplifier itself, the whole subwoofer will not take 300 watts. But it still might use any higher value than the power supply can output! Find a 12v rail which has the highest values! When you decided, you just get a Molex connector, get the yellow / black connectors (these are 12v) and connect those to your subwoofer. But you need to make sure the power supply is on. You get the motherboard connector, locate green and a black cable and short these two connections together. This will make the power supply go out of standby mode and start. But even then, I wouldn't recommend a computer power supply. Just use a mains to 12v power adapter. It's much safer.
[QUOTE=Merijnwitje;40866265]That changes the story. I got so stunned by this I immediately had to respond. ANYWAYS: Your subwoofer probably has RCA in, the two red and white input, you can use a 3.5mm to RCA connector, and use a 3.5mm splitter for your other speakers and this silly car subwoofer. As for powering the amplifier itself, the whole subwoofer will not take 300 watts. But it still might use any higher value than the power supply can output! Find a 12v rail which has the highest values! When you decided, you just get a Molex connector, get the yellow / black connectors (these are 12v) and connect those to your subwoofer. But you need to make sure the power supply is on. You get the motherboard connector, locate green and a black cable and short these two connections together. This will make the power supply go out of standby mode and start. But even then, I wouldn't recommend a computer power supply. Just use a mains to 12v power adapter. It's much safer.[/QUOTE] Did you just read the title?
I did, but I believe these things are a BITCH to power. Also I already described how to connect that subwoofer to his computer.
[QUOTE=Merijnwitje;40873980]I did, but I believe these things are a BITCH to power. Also I already described how to connect that subwoofer to his computer.[/QUOTE] Thanks but you should've read through whole thread, because how to connect it was solved ages ago + it's working, only problem left is to get power supply.
Alright. 300 watts is the maximal power the driver of the subwoofer can handle. I don't think the internal amplifier will output that at all. Just connecting this thing to a 200w power supply is sufficient. The wattage the subwoofer takes is not 300 watt at all.
It's 300w RMS not peak.
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