Aiming for Challenger, need advice on which to pick.
8 replies, posted
So I'm looking at picking up one of two Challengers, but I'm not sure which to go for. There's a 2010 model that has 39k miles on it but they're asking $20k, along with an offered lifetime powertrain warranty makes it kinda attractive to me. However I also found a 2013 model (which puts it into the newer era and the same year as my Charger), with 61k miles at $17.5k. No particular warranty offered beyond a 3 month one. I need advice on how to go about this.
if u don't like mopar just take ur weeaboo ass to the stancing thred tia
whats next you gonna buy google glass and kill someone in a street race
Cubeman joke
Rapist on the loose
Grow up
Get a Mustang and run into crowds
but uh i'd look at their history, any maintenance records, IDK about Dodges but I'd look up reliability issues with both cars and go from there in regards if you want that warranty or not
Thank you for actual advice and not just "lol cubeman lol rapist lol mopar"
I hear Fizz is pretty good in this meta, you should spam him and you can get Challengers if you dedicate yourself.
Yeah no problem, I work at a car dealership in sales and some salesmen will purposely not tell you about some things cause they're trying to get a sale in. If they're offering a really good warranty on a used car, you might want to check the carfax if you're able to.
I'd do some research about the 2010 model and see what kind of issues are common with that year if they're offering a lifetime warranty
Basically, I'd suggest picking the car that's in the better condition engine wise, mi/km on the engine don't mean shit if the engine was
treated rough, it's more of a rough guide to what kind of services you can expect to be doing in the near future.
My rule of thumb is to become the living nightmare of every used car dealership. If they won't take the plastic panels and shit off to show me there are no problems, I walk. I also won't stand for any less than letting me see, and if I buy then have a copy of the records, proof that work was done, etc.
Granted they usually wash the fuckers quite often to hide leaks and shit, but that's why you start making demands after the test drive, and you make sure you treat that test drive like you're trying to bring the problems out, get it as hot as possible, run the AC on full, give the brakes a good using, etc. Especially because they often consider a test drive to be the "gotcha" thing that gets suckers to buy right away, so coming in hard after that blind sides a good number of salesmen.
I used to help friends shop for used cars, so standard advice for any cars still apply. Sometimes the most attractive deal will utterly fail a physical/mechanical inspection and I sure as shit wouldn't trust that powertrain warranty because there's likely a catch - especially so if this is a performance car (possibly driven hard) from a manufacturer not known for reliability or quality. So, standard rules (I typed this out for a friend, might as well paste them here) :
a) Look up service interval sheets for both cars online, work out what has to have been completed on the car based on the odo and the age (especially if quite old, which might not be the case here but dodge's history with shotty QA kinda still applies - rubber/plastic components, for example). Also see the Service Bulletins for the cars you're looking to buy in advance, because very often, they'll list the common fixes for parts that fail regularly, so you might need to factor that into your negotiation if that part hasn't been changed out according to the service log.
b) KBB the shit out of it to see what the actual price is - use a service like the VMR registry, for example http://www.vmrintl.com/. It'll give you some good points for negotiations on price.
c) Assume that any high-performance car has been hoon'd in by default, until proven otherwise. Inspect all body panels for damage, mismatched panel gaps, orange peeling, the usual. I found it a worthwhile investment to just get a paint pen to do spot checks on common collision sites (bumpers, front and rear quarter panels, doors) just to see if there was any bondo work. Any bondo work on a car that has a 'clean' carfax? walk away. Any bondo work in a place likely to have possible frame damage? Walk away.
d) Invest in a good OBD II scanner - personally, I'd recommend Blue Driver. It's a good diagnostics tool to buy and keep regardless, so always have one. Run that through the car, see if the codes have been cleaned or any codes pop up - google it on the spot to see what they are.
e) Finally, take it to a good mechanic, have him do a once over outside of the things that you can do yourself (the usual checking for leaks under the car, basic drive test for car feel, examination of the suspension by doing the bounce test, etc.).
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